Can I ground and amp under the center console?
- Thread starter seeking3rdgen
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Short answer....YES.
You need to make sure you clean the paint/primer off well to ensure a proper grounding.
:jaw: Please tell me you are not running your power/ground along side your speaker/RCA cables.... That's a no-no unless you like the whining sound of your alternator. :biggrin2:
You need to make sure you clean the paint/primer off well to ensure a proper grounding.
:jaw: Please tell me you are not running your power/ground along side your speaker/RCA cables.... That's a no-no unless you like the whining sound of your alternator. :biggrin2:
gshadow325
New member
yes you can ground it there. speaker and rca along side power is fine as long as they are sheilded and high quality rcas. a lot has to do with the amp you are running too.
what you are doing is a lot of work just to run rca and speaker wires.
Desert Fox
New member
What do you mean? Do you have a easier way?
When I upgraded the stereo on my 03, I gutted the inside and ran new wires to everything, leaving the factory wires as is.
I will do the same with my 05 unless you know something thats easier.
gshadow325
New member
why would you gut a car out? such a waste of time, but the time is yours.
all you need to do is use the factory wires in the car. there is no need to run new wires everywhere. you will never notice the difference with the old factory wires in the car VS the new wires you ran.
amateurs will think they need to run all new wires, pro's will look at them with eye brows raised and ask why?
your car, you do what you think is best.
here some examples between a pro and a amateurs vehicle.
wanna be
pro
BlackWorksInc
New member
What in god's name is that black spaghetti mess in the background?
And that's a good ground to body.
[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION]
He's got a point, I'm pretty retentive about wiring mess so I actually took apart my underhood fuse box and went from power to fuse to the PIAA foglamps with the thicker PIAA supplied wiring, you'd never know because it all looks stock and uses the factory fuse wiring and relay.
Typically you can feed on large power cable to the cab and use a junction block to save on wiring mess, a lot of "amatuer" guys like GShadow pointed out feel you need to run all new wires. My personal opinion is that it depends, I like to beef up factory wiring where I can use it rather than run redundant wiring, i.e. my foglamp wiring (I have PIAAs in my ShrockWorks bumper)
And that's a good ground to body.
[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION]
He's got a point, I'm pretty retentive about wiring mess so I actually took apart my underhood fuse box and went from power to fuse to the PIAA foglamps with the thicker PIAA supplied wiring, you'd never know because it all looks stock and uses the factory fuse wiring and relay.
Typically you can feed on large power cable to the cab and use a junction block to save on wiring mess, a lot of "amatuer" guys like GShadow pointed out feel you need to run all new wires. My personal opinion is that it depends, I like to beef up factory wiring where I can use it rather than run redundant wiring, i.e. my foglamp wiring (I have PIAAs in my ShrockWorks bumper)
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seeking3rdgen
New member
I sanded and scored it and set the ground there. The RCAs don't get closer than about a foot from the speaker wire, and only at the center console. I am, however, running the speaker wire next to the power and ground cables. My understanding is that power, ground, and speaker wire can interfere with RCAs, but that power, ground, and speaker wire do not interfere with one another (someone please correct me if this is wrong).
I finished under the center console, but I didn't take any more pictures. the power and ground go through the rearmost portion of the center console, and the RCAs are bundled up towards the front, by the gear shifter. Under the passenger seat, I have a 4 ch. amp. Under the driver's seat, I have a mono amp and both distribution blocks.
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seeking3rdgen
New member
3 pairs of RCAs that are longer than I need. They are now wrapped up and completely hidden inside the the center console. The RCAs go down through the center console, then out of the center console under the carpet and up through the vent cutouts. I'm not happy with the spaghetti mess, but it's hidden. Unless I get interference, it's staying in. I'm trying to keep everything hidden for a relatively clean (or at least, clean-appearing) installation.
This is my first time using an aftermarket 4ch amp or wiring new speaker wire. I was under the impression that running new speaker wire was pretty standard when adding aftermarket amp and speakers. I'll post pics when I finally finish this.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Yeah its pretty standard to run new speaker wires as typically the factory wiring is pretty thin and many aftermarket speakers seem to benefit from the better wiring. What I was referring to is the weird tendency for many people to have a ton of wires tapped off the positive battery terminal and then just half-hazardly pull them through the truck like many installations I have seen.
If it was my truck the wiring would look almost factory as I'd probably gut the old non-functional speaker wiring from the factory harness and then run the new wiring with the harness so its nice and near. But that's just how I do things; tends to be a bit more CDO than most people want to be.
riceandpho
Elite Member
If you actually lift the carpet up, you'll see a ground point right under the seat. That's where the seat wires are grounded to that 10mm bolt. I've been using that ground point for years, no need to lift the console for ground.
Desert Fox
New member
Well Steve, you are correct about one thing, I am not a professional audio installer or mechanic for that matter. Maybe that is why I go many steps further than I need to. When I do something like replacing the audo system, I want to do the best I can. I do my research on products and process and then plan the work, making sure I have time, abilty and everything needed to finish the job.
Is it overkill, probably but the end result is a good job.
By gutting the 4Runner (I did the same to our FJ Cruiser too) I was able to clean it, install sound deadening material and a couple of additional mods all at the same time.
I dont think a professional would go the extra step (some maybe but not most). Most professionals just do what is expected and no more. At least that has been my 50+ years of experience with professionals.
This is one of the reasons I try to do the work myself if it is within my abilities.
seeking3rdgen
New member
Well said. As a DIYer, I take more more time, but I like to think that I also take more care than most professionals. Maybe the speaker wire is overkill, but I want this done right the first time. Once you're doing amps and speakers, new speaker wiring isn't that much additional work. I also did not want to deal with the 4Runner's screwy wiring or crossovers.
HokieRunner
New member
If you already have the truck gutted for sound deadening/insulation, running new speaker wire takes no more time than trying to figure out where to tap into the old wires - esp. in the case of the OEM JBL systems. In fact, I know it was faster for me to toss down new 16 gauge wires from the rear mounted amp to the doors. The benefit to me for new wires was not having to deal with the OEM harness. Just unplugged all the old speakers and amp and left the wiring in place.
Now for a lower powered amp or straight speaker replacement then yes - the stock wiring will be fine. And honestly, if the stock wiring is 18 AWG or better it'll be fine in most cases even with higher powered amps.
Does anyone know what gauge the OEM wiring is?
Now for a lower powered amp or straight speaker replacement then yes - the stock wiring will be fine. And honestly, if the stock wiring is 18 AWG or better it'll be fine in most cases even with higher powered amps.
Does anyone know what gauge the OEM wiring is?
gshadow325
New member
Key things to your statement:
1: DIY will need to take more time to do it since they dont do it all the time
2: DIY dont do it all the time so it may not be done right the first time
3: You said it correctly, MOST pro's. NOT this one. I know i will do it better, faster, cleaner, and more efficient than 99.9% of the people on here.
4: 4runner doesnt have any weird wiring or crossovers. its only weird to you since you are not familiar with them.
Agreed! Key word is MOST pro's, like i said above...I am not one of those "pro's". My motto is, "I am only as good as my last job i rolled out of my shop"
If the OP said, he gutted to add sound deadening i would agree.
This forum is full of DIY, myself included. I know when to fight my battles. Like when I wanted to do my timing belt water pump on my daily driven v8 4runner. I chose to pay my mechanic to do it and done correctly the first time.
BTW- my responses to this thread is just a discussion and my opinions are just that my opinion. i try to provide insight to you guys from a pro's perspective
Honestly, i am real good at what i do LOL
Desert Fox
New member
A professional shop quoted me $700 to install the head unit, steering wlteel control, 4 speakers and amp. And that was labor only. That is about what I paid for the equiplment.
It took 2 days of my time but I have more time than I have money so that trade was worth it.
I planned the work prior to doing it. So I only did it once.
In the end I had a real nice sounding system and I felt good that I did the work. I knew the level of quality that was done and I learned about how my 4Runner is put together.
My current 4Runner has a much nicer head unit in it that I beleive was professionally installed (I dont know for sure). Either way I do not know what work has been done and what all has been replaced. The system uses the factory amp and sub and I assume the factory speakers.
I am planning to install an amp and speakers from my 03 4Runner. I will do the same process by removing the seats and interior panels, run new wires, clean everything and reassemble.
Steve, if you are going to be in Colorado Springs this summer I will be glad to check out your work :wink2:. It sounds like you take pride in what you do.
It took 2 days of my time but I have more time than I have money so that trade was worth it.
I planned the work prior to doing it. So I only did it once.
In the end I had a real nice sounding system and I felt good that I did the work. I knew the level of quality that was done and I learned about how my 4Runner is put together.
My current 4Runner has a much nicer head unit in it that I beleive was professionally installed (I dont know for sure). Either way I do not know what work has been done and what all has been replaced. The system uses the factory amp and sub and I assume the factory speakers.
I am planning to install an amp and speakers from my 03 4Runner. I will do the same process by removing the seats and interior panels, run new wires, clean everything and reassemble.
Steve, if you are going to be in Colorado Springs this summer I will be glad to check out your work :wink2:. It sounds like you take pride in what you do.
gshadow325
New member
I would be at $350 labor plus parts for a amp install under the seat.
Personally i would not run new wires. pointless except for bragging rights and if you bragged that you did that to ME, i'd look at you like you are nuts and had two heads! LOL, because i think itsa pintless
In my runner i did not do that. In my runner i did not have a Kenwood XR-5 or x900.5 5 channel amp in stock at the time. it went under the seat. If starting from scratch, i'd look up my how to on removing the "just blows system aka JBL" and wire in the 5 channel amp in place of the OEM amp in the right rear corner.
btw- I am a full line Kenwood excelon dealer and pioneer dealer. if you curious on what i do. PM me for a link
HokieRunner
New member
[MENTION=93434]gshadow325[/MENTION] I'm curious what gauge the OEM speaker wire is and figured you'd know.
