Can some multimode case guys check something for me?

puppetz007

puppetz007

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I had mine out just the other day while I was working on my alarm, and mine looks exactly the same as yours. It has only two wires. Mine does not light up w/the rest of the interior lights, which I thought was funny so I double checked to make sure I had the right plug and sure enough, it's just not a lighted switch.

The "RR Diff Lock" switch on 4Runners is the same way, only two wires, no lighting... but on Tacomas, the plug/switch has 4 wires, the other two are for the lighting circuit.

The hole on the side of your switch is where a small light bulb would twist into place if it were a lighted switch.

According to the electrical diagrams > http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/wiring.html > The switch should only have two wires, one is white/black the other is grey.
 
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BigFishAllDay said:
I had mine out just the other day while I was working on my alarm, and mine looks exactly the same as yours. It has only two wires. Mine does not light up w/the rest of the interior lights, which I thought was funny so I double checked to make sure I had the right plug and sure enough, it's just not a lighted switch.

The "RR Diff Lock" switch on 4Runners is the same way, only two wires, no lighting... but on Tacomas, the plug/switch has 4 wires, the other two are for the lighting circuit.

The hole on the side of your switch is where a small light bulb would twist into place if it were a lighted switch.

According to the electrical diagrams > http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/fsm/wiring.html > The switch should only have two wires, one is white/black the other is grey.
Click to expand...


Thanks for checking that makes me feel better. What's the best way to test if the switch is working?
 
puppetz007 said:
Thanks for checking that makes me feel better. What's the best way to test if the switch is working?
Click to expand...

All the switch does is allow/disallow a signal to go to ground.

Unplug the switch and look at the plug. Determine which terminals of the switch are being contacted by the wired terminals of the plug. Those are the two terminals you need to use for your test.

Take a digital multi-meter and set it to the "continuity" function. Put one lead on each of the two terminals on the switch that you determined were being used when you looked at the plug.

When you depress the switch, the multimeter should indicate continuity, when you release the switch the multimeter should indicate no continuity.
 
I think my switch is is bad. I put my multimeter on the two prongs that line up with the corresponding wires and when I depress the switch the value stays the same (unless my multimeter is bad).
 
Singtoe said:
Mine lights up when i push the button in.
Click to expand...

Which one? Rear or Center? My rear diff lock switch lights up because I used a Tacoma switch and pigtail for my retrofit, but I've never seen light from the center switch.

puppetz007 said:
I think my switch is is bad. I put my multimeter on the two prongs that line up with the corresponding wires and when I depress the switch the value stays the same (unless my multimeter is bad).
Click to expand...

If I remember right, the center diff lock switch is a momentary switch, right? I drove my '97 to work tonight so I can't go out to the garage and look @ the '01.

To test a momentary switch, you would need to have the leads of the multimeter on the terminals, then push the switch. It would only show continuity when you are physically depressing the switch.
 
Thanks for the replies so far BFAD and Singtoe, you both bring a ton of knowledge to the forum.

Here's what I did. I set my mm to do a continuity test. The value on the screen was 1. When I touched the probes together the mm buzzed. I disconnected the switch from the wires and tested the terminals of the switch. The value displayed was 1. When I depressed the switch the value didn't change. Another thing, my switch doesn't stay depressed, when I push it in it pops right back out. All this leads me to believe the switch is bad...
 
puppetz007 said:
Thanks for the replies so far BFAD and Singtoe, you both bring a ton of knowledge to the forum.

Here's what I did. I set my mm to do a continuity test. The value on the screen was 1. When I touched the probes together the mm buzzed. I disconnected the switch from the wires and tested the terminals of the switch. The value displayed was 1. When I depressed the switch the value didn't change. Another thing, my switch doesn't stay depressed, when I push it in it pops right back out. All this leads me to believe the switch is bad...
Click to expand...


The momentary switch is perfectly fine. This way it resets itself when you turn the 4runner off.

These switches seldom go bad.
 
Singtoe said:
The momentary switch is perfectly fine. This way it resets itself when you turn the 4runner off.

These switches seldom go bad.
Click to expand...

Ok. So if my 4hi and 4lo work just fine but my center diff won't lock, can I assume my t-case is faulty? Or, could it be the 4wd control module? I only want to make sure I can check everything off before I get a new transfer case.
 
Your transfer case is fine. Mayber a sensor, maybe the ecu, maybe the actuator, maybe the ADD. If the 4x4 ECU doesn't see the right info, it will not let it work. I should just cause the dash lights to blink.

If the transfer case was bad, you would not be able to go from hi to lo and lo to hi.
 
Gents, I know this is a resurrection of an old thread, but my brothers 01 4runner has the multimode and the switch isn't plugged in, where does the other end plug into?
 
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