Can't get rear brakes to bleed?

thegipper

New member
I swapped my 3rd member with a eaton truetrac that I got off my parts rig I recently bought.

Everything went somewhat smooth but I cannot get the rear brakes to bleed. I had to torch both rear bleeders because I doubt they have ever been used (211k miles). I can get both of them to loosen up but when I try to bleed them, nothing comes out. I did get a tiny bit of fluid to come out of the rear passenger side but not like it should.

I tried unscrewing the bleeders a bunch but no matter how many times I push on the brakes (engine off, engine in the on position and engine running), essentially no fluid comes out.

Fluid in the reservoir was monitored so it never wen't too low. I did loose a fair amount of fluid since I forgot to cap off the brake lines when I pulled the axle shafts. Half way through the job I realized they were dripping like crazy so I found a plug for each side so I stopped loosing fluid.

My guess is the bleeders themselves are plugged with rust and not allowing any fluid to come out.

Any thoughts on this guys? My brakes are spongy now but everything else turned out good.

I had to give up tonight, I'm pooped...
 
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My new to me corolla had this problem too. No rubber caps on the bleeders and they were plugged with dirt and rust. I just had to take each one out all the way and use a small pick to knock out the blockage, then a quick squirt of brake clean. Put them back in and good to go, bleed as normal. Then go steal some rubber caps to put on them for next time.

Good luck.
 
I'll try that next. They are probably mega plugged up right now.

you allowed the brake lines to leak this then will require bleeding the master cyl..

you never open the brake lines and then allow brake fluid to drain ..you must have a method ready when you remove/open the lines to stop flow.

remove the bleed screws and see if it is plugged up but with the high pressure any rust should blow out esp with the engine on ..
 
If you get fluid up to the cylinders, buy a rebuild kit for both sides at the dealer. Not expensive.

Point in case to why the brake fluid needs to be changed at least every three years.
 
I don't really understand your question caeser, I'll try to explain in a bit more.

I didn't cap off the rear brake lines (at first) when I was pulling the axle shafts. After awhile, I realized fluid was still running out of the lines so I found a way to cap the lines.

The reservoir was low but never empty after i noticed the fluid that kept coming out of the lines.

when I open up the rear bleeder screws (one at a time), essentially no fluid comes out no matter how many times I pump the brakes.

I removed one of the bleeders and although it is rusty looking, it is not plugged. I cannot get fluid to come out of either of the rear bleeders so at this point I think air got into the master cylinder.

If that is the case, I need to bleed the MS but I have no clue on how to do it.

The brakes still work and it's driveable but my pedal is spongy and not like it was before. Hopefully this all makes sense.
 
I don't really understand your question caeser, I'll try to explain in a bit more.

I didn't cap off the rear brake lines (at first) when I was pulling the axle shafts. After awhile, I realized fluid was still running out of the lines so I found a way to cap the lines.

The reservoir was low but never empty after i noticed the fluid that kept coming out of the lines.

when I open up the rear bleeder screws (one at a time), essentially no fluid comes out no matter how many times I pump the brakes.

I removed one of the bleeders and although it is rusty looking, it is not plugged. I cannot get fluid to come out of either of the rear bleeders so at this point I think air got into the master cylinder.

If that is the case, I need to bleed the MS but I have no clue on how to do it.

The brakes still work and it's driveable but my pedal is spongy and not like it was before. Hopefully this all makes sense.

Per the FSM:

BLEED MASTER CYLINDER
HINT:
If the master cylinder was disassembled or if the reservoir becomes empty, bleed the air from the master cylinder.
(a) Disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder.
(b) Slowly depress the brake pedal and hold it.
(c) Block off the outlet plug with your finger, and release the brake pedal.
(d) Repeat (b) and (c) 3 or 4 times.

Worked for me on my '99 as I had drained the system completely when I did my frame swap.
 
Got it fixed guys! It ended up being the rear brake bleeders on both side were clogged. When I took one off earlier I thought it was fine but they both were all plugged up.

I cleaned them out with drill bits and was able to bleed the brakes (all 4 corners) and its all back to normal!
 
Got it fixed guys! It ended up being the rear brake bleeders on both side were clogged. When I took one off earlier I thought it was fine but they both were all plugged up.

I cleaned them out with drill bits and was able to bleed the brakes (all 4 corners) and its all back to normal!



I was going to say run a drill bit into the bleeder. But you got it.

Now cap them off.

I have a set of brake lines that are bent to attach to the master cylinder and go into the reservoir. My pressure bleeder also makes quick work of bleeding master cylinders.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I should have been clearer, bad hangover.

Just pull the hard lines out of the cylinders and if fluid comes out, then you know your problem is at the wheel and not at the MC or ABS modulator.
 
I should have been clearer, bad hangover.

Just pull the hard lines out of the cylinders and if fluid comes out, then you know your problem is at the wheel and not at the MC or ABS modulator.

That's how me and my buddy figured it out. Thankfully he came over and stopped me before I started messing with the MC. He took out one of the bleeders and it was totally plugged up.

Perhaps my hangover is why I thought the bleeders were ok this morning..lol

It was a long night..
 
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