Can't Install Brake Drum

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psea17

Member
Ok, I'm completely stumped. Usually, people have problems removing the drums. For some reason, I can't put the passenger side drum back on. The brake pads are extending too far out.

Oddly, the brake pads don't look centered related to the backing plate. The pad closest to the front of the truck appears to be much closer to the edge and perhaps rotated a little lower vs the aft brake pad.

I have screwed the brake adjustment screw all the way in an attempt to make room between the brake pad and drum, but no luck.

Any ideas?
 

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psea17 said:
Ok, I'm completely stumped. Usually, people have problems removing the drums. For some reason, I can't put the passenger side drum back on. The brake pads are extending too far out.

Oddly, the brake pads don't look centered related to the backing plate. The pad closest to the front of the truck appears to be much closer to the edge and perhaps rotated a little lower vs the aft brake pad.

I have screwed the brake adjustment screw all the way in an attempt to make room between the brake pad and drum, but no luck.

Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Give us some pictures. Did you watch Timmy the Toolmans rear brake video? Might have some pointers or at least something to compare to.
 
JZiggy said:
Give us some pictures. Did you watch Timmy the Toolmans rear brake video? Might have some pointers or at least something to compare to.
Click to expand...

Yeah, and the video just so happens to feature [MENTION=148218]JZiggy[/MENTION] too.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Hey Timmy, funny that you would chime in. I was actually taking the axle out to check that the bearing seal was seated properly. I noticed some grease/oil on my inner tire. I had used your video last fall to do the job (GREAT video BTW). I also checked that the seal was riding on the retainer ring. It was exactly 5mm in which is just about the middle. Did another grease test just to make sure. I made sure I reversed the ring and I exchanged the inner ring with the outer ring. Everything looked good! Then went to put the drum on and well...here I am. I started watching your video above earlier today. But got side tracked.

Thanks for everyone chiming in!
 
psea17 said:
Pics added!
Click to expand...

One side of the wheel cylinder (right side) looks way extended. Maybe you can try to center the shoes more to help the drum fit? I often put a carpenter clamp like a quick-grip at the center of the two shoes and squeeze them together to get things to center up.
 
JZiggy said:
One side of the wheel cylinder (right side) looks way extended. Maybe you can try to center the shoes more to help the drum fit? I often put a carpenter clamp like a quick-grip at the center of the two shoes and squeeze them together to get things to center up.
Click to expand...

Thanks JZiggy.

I'm watching the end of Timmy's brake video right now (with you adjusting the pads). I see what you're talking about. Is that normal to have one of the cylinder's sticking out so far? I'm wondering if it's shot. How would I determine if it's no good?

I'm guessing i should make sure there isn't too much brake fluid in the reservoir?
 
Looking at your pics, I think your issue is you don't have the star wheel adjuster seated properly in the left shoe. The star adjuster has a slot in it that slides into another slot on the shoe. If it's not lined up properly, the shoes will stick out further. Make sure that star adjuster is lined up right and I bet that solves your issue of getting the drum on.
 
JZiggy said:
One side of the wheel cylinder (right side) looks way extended. Maybe you can try to center the shoes more to help the drum fit? I often put a carpenter clamp like a quick-grip at the center of the two shoes and squeeze them together to get things to center up.
Click to expand...

This is the first thing I noticed. If the piston isn't centered in the wheel cylinder I think it's likely that you'll run into problems. That means one of your shoes is extended further than it should be.

I'm sure the video got you on the right track.
 
aontkos said:
This is the first thing I noticed. If the piston isn't centered in the wheel cylinder I think it's likely that you'll run into problems. That means one of your shoes is extended further than it should be.
Click to expand...
I’m with these guys.......that right side piston in the wheel cylinder is not positioned properly.
May have to relieve pressure by cracking bleeder to reposition.
I’m thinking you disconnected the wheel cylinder when you pulled the axle to confirm no leaky seal?
 
I ran into the same issue a couple years ago when I was changing my rear brake shoes. Had everything done and couldn't get my drum back on. Messed around with the adjusting wheel then noticed my wheel cylinder looked weird. As I was trying to center/compress my wheel cylinder so it looked more normal I noticed a small amount of brake fluid leaking out of the rubber boot. My guess is at some point in removing/installing parts I damaged the wheel cylinder because it wasn't leaking before. All is good now. Double check that it's not leaking before you put everything back together.
 
fourfive said:
I ran into the same issue a couple years ago when I was changing my rear brake shoes. Had everything done and couldn't get my drum back on. Messed around with the adjusting wheel then noticed my wheel cylinder looked weird. As I was trying to center/compress my wheel cylinder so it looked more normal I noticed a small amount of brake fluid leaking out of the rubber boot. My guess is at some point in removing/installing parts I damaged the wheel cylinder because it wasn't leaking before. All is good now. Double check that it's not leaking before you put everything back together.
Click to expand...


They will push out of the wheel cylinder if you remove the shoes. They make a spring clamp to keep the pistons inside the wheel cylinder during maintenance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
HAPPY to report the drum is back on! I had to compress the right side piston. luckily, all it took was a screwdriver inserted from the top to pry the piston back into its housing.

one other question. I saw the video's technique for using the e-brake to get the self-adjustet to the right position. prior to this, I had noticed I had to pull my ebrake all the way up to keep my truck from rolling. should I adjust the cable in the center console before resetting the auto adjuster or would u do the auto adjuster first?

I FRIGGIN LOVE THE 4RUNNER COMMUNITY. I literally fear the idea of getting anothet truck....someday. 241,000 and still plugging away. just wish I had more power for hauling my black series dominator trailer up big hills. (aware of supercharger; keep contemplating)
 
psea17 said:
HAPPY to report the drum is back on! I had to compress the right side piston. luckily, all it took was a screwdriver inserted from the top to pry the piston back into its housing.

one other question. I saw the video's technique for using the e-brake to get the self-adjustet to the right position. prior to this, I had noticed I had to pull my ebrake all the way up to keep my truck from rolling. should I adjust the cable in the center console before resetting the auto adjuster or would u do the auto adjuster first?

I FRIGGIN LOVE THE 4RUNNER COMMUNITY. I literally fear the idea of getting anothet truck....someday. 241,000 and still plugging away. just wish I had more power for hauling my black series dominator trailer up big hills. (aware of supercharger; keep contemplating)
Click to expand...

You shouldn't have to adjust the cable at the console. Just keep pulling the e-brake over and over again until you get 7-9 clicks from the handle.
 
I like to turn the adjust out until I can *just* get the drum back on. Then crank it forward with a screwdriver from the access hole a few more clicks. You want the drum to drag just a little.

When its adjusted right you should be able to get good tension on the handle after 7-9 clicks like Tim said. Oughtta be able to lock the tires right up with a hard pull.
 
followed the video to a t. tightened adjuster. drums just barely fit on and then tightened fr behind backing plate. but when I pulled on the ebrake, no clicking. it still comes up pretty high. still think the cable doesn't have to be tightened at center console?
 
psea17 said:
followed the video to a t. tightened adjuster. drums just barely fit on and then tightened fr behind backing plate. but when I pulled on the ebrake, no clicking. it still comes up pretty high. still think the cable doesn't have to be tightened at center console?
Click to expand...

I don't get it, if you're able to pull the handle up pretty high, you should be hearing some clicking.
 
mtbtim said:
I don't get it, if you're able to pull the handle up pretty high, you should be hearing some clicking.
Click to expand...

hmm, theoretically, if the cable had too much slack wouldn't that explain it? the ebrake reaches its max distance before it can supply enough tension to make the adjusters "click"?

just thinking out loud.
 
There is a procedure to adjust the ebrake in the FSM. It’s important to follow it.

While your drums are off grind off the lip.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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