Car Liquid preference thread!

[ChildrenOfBodom]

Engine oil preferences?
Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic. Been on synthetic for about 80k, currently at 224k. Leaks were prevalent the synthetic first change, although the motor was neglected before I purchased the truck. I had to change many seals to end the leaks.

Coolant preferences?
I didn't have one, but having just installed a new radiator with cheapo Walmart brand SuperTech coolant, the increased water temperature has made me consider a flush. I will be going with Toyota coolant most likely.

Brake Fluid preferences?
DOT 4 - I don't have a brand preference as of yet, the fluid I buy from work for Mercedes-Benz vehicles works well.

Power Steering preferences?
Mobil 1 ATF (I'll never go with anything that has mercon, mainly used in Ford vehicles, that stuff destroyed my old steering rack and caused it to leak badly)

 

[T4R2014]

Power Steering preferences?
Mobil 1 ATF (I'll never go with anything that has mercon, mainly used in Ford vehicles, that stuff destroyed my old steering rack and caused it to leak badly)

I'm pretty sure Mobil 1 ATF is Mercon compatible. Vehicle fluids have got to be the most boring thing to talk about but I once heard that Dexron and Mercon are very similar which is why you always see Dex/Merc ATF's in stores.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

I don't know anything about it really. I used Valvoline DEX/MERC (with a note that said Ideal for Ford Vehicles), that stuff immediately destroyed my rack, within days.

Now I have just normal ATF Dexron 3 or 4 in with the used rack I bought. Just to be safe, I made sure not to get any ATF with Mercon written across the front. Remains trouble/leak free.

 

[Robb235]

If you really want peace-of-mind, take the question to the BobIsTheOilGuy coolant forum, where they live and breathe HOATS, and OATS and ethylene glycol all day long. I think they'll agree with me.

No joke, BobIsTheOilGuy is pretty much the ultimate resource on the internet for any type of oil or automotive fluid.

 

[bpowa]

whatever is cheapest.. oil lI go mobil 5000 high milage..

I would normally go rotella t5 or t6.. but it seems they went up an additional 5 bucks a gallon.

while mobile 500 is a couple bucks more.. This is my way to stick it to shell; how dare they bump up the price.

 

[zacattack20]

I doubt that you would have a sludgeing problem from a little of the recent universal green type coolant in with your red. The sludge issue was with the old-style Prestone green but that hasn't been sold for years. What will happen is it will compromise the long-life capability of the Toyota coolant as the anti-corrosion chemistries are antagonistic. So I would not leave it any longer than the 25-30k you would run with any normal cheapo coolant.

If you really want peace-of-mind, take the question to the BobIsTheOilGuy coolant forum, where they live and breathe HOATS, and OATS and ethylene glycol all day long. I think they'll agree with me.

But who knows what type of coolant he had in the truck to begin with. The way he says he just pulled the radiator and put in a new one, sounds like he didn't flush anything out of the block that might have been in there so there is probably more than just a little green coolant left over. I wouldn't chance messing up the engine over a $25 jug of toyota red coolant and a flush.

 

[TheDurk]

But who knows what type of coolant he had in the truck to begin with. The way he says he just pulled the radiator and put in a new one, sounds like he didn't flush anything out of the block that might have been in there so there is probably more than just a little green coolant left over. I wouldn't chance messing up the engine over a $25 jug of toyota red coolant and a flush.

I don't know what specifically you are worried about happening. Where did that thing with eating the head gasket come from? 2-EHA? What kind of messing up the engine?. Obviously, I am assuming there is no sign of sludging/milking in reservoir or under rad cap. I am also assuming that what was in there was appropriate to the vehicle and still within service life. If it was bad from the getgo, that damage has been done. Leaving the "not much was left" in there a little longer isn't going to make much difference.

There is nothing wrong with a modern green that today is silicate-free OAT technology in a Toyota engine as long as the change interval is <30k. Lots of our members do that. I have heard no recent reports of sludging where one of the parties is not Dex-Cool, which ain't green and should never go near a Toyota.

I don't see what there is to panic about so as long as you don't run it as though it is a Long Life coolant (other than the FUD generated by stuff that happened years ago and isn't really relevant in 2014). Freeze and boil protection will be there, although he should test to confirm that as I do regularly, and a short change interval compensates for any compromise to the anti-corrosion chemistry.

Sure it's only $25-$30, but that's the poster's call. I'm just doing my best to answer the question based on what I've read. I'd have done the flush and fill right in the first place. No argument best practice is not to mix, because it will for sure reduce service life, but that ship has sailed.

 

[zacattack20]

I don't know what specifically you are worried about happening. Where did that thing with eating the head gasket come from? 2-EHA? What kind of messing up the engine?. Obviously, I am assuming there is no sign of sludging/milking in reservoir or under rad cap. I am also assuming that what was in there was appropriate to the vehicle and still within service life. If it was bad from the getgo, that damage has been done. Leaving the "not much was left" in there a little longer isn't going to make much difference.

There is nothing wrong with a modern green that today is silicate-free OAT technology in a Toyota engine as long as the change interval is <30k. Lots of our members do that. I have heard no recent reports of sludging where one of the parties is not Dex-Cool, which ain't green and should never go near a Toyota.

I don't see what there is to panic about so as long as you don't run it as though it is a Long Life coolant (other than the FUD generated by stuff that happened years ago and isn't really relevant in 2014). Freeze and boil protection will be there, although he should test to confirm that as I do regularly, and a short change interval compensates for any compromise to the anti-corrosion chemistry.

Sure it's only $25-$30, but that's the poster's call. I'm just doing my best to answer the question based on what I've read. I'd have done the flush and fill right in the first place. No argument best practice is not to mix, because it will for sure reduce service life, but that ship has sailed.

I would just rather be careful than not. They shouldn't be mixed as you agree, and it may cause problems and there is a good chance it couldn't. I just don't see to chance running the engine anymore with the mixed coolant when you could easily just flush that out for $25.

 

[Amirocassar]

Engine oil preferences?
Mobil 1 5W-30 Full Synthetic. Been on synthetic for about 80k, currently at 224k. Leaks were prevalent the synthetic first change, although the motor was neglected before I purchased the truck. I had to change many seals to end the leaks.

Coolant preferences?
I didn't have one, but having just installed a new radiator with cheapo Walmart brand SuperTech coolant, the increased water temperature has made me consider a flush. I will be going with Toyota coolant most likely.

Brake Fluid preferences?
DOT 4 - I don't have a brand preference as of yet, the fluid I buy from work for Mercedes-Benz vehicles works well.

Power Steering preferences?
Mobil 1 ATF (I'll never go with anything that has mercon, mainly used in Ford vehicles, that stuff destroyed my old steering rack and caused it to leak badly)

How many seals did you roughly have to change? Rough cost? And time/difficulty? Haven't ever had to change seals, but I really want to go synthetic to extend the life of my engine. This is my first personal vehicle, being my own, and I want it to last for another decade and am willing to do the work. I'll just be going to college in the Fall, so want to try and get this all done before hand. Worried about changing the oil, going synthetic, then having leaks, then worrying about buying new seals/changing them. With my luck... It will probably be that way.

 

[02SE]

No joke, BobIsTheOilGuy is pretty much the ultimate resource on the internet for any type of oil or automotive fluid.

There are some members there that actually do know what they are talking about. But, just like this site, there is also plenty of misinformation that is posted regularly.

Before taking anyone's word as gospel, find out what their qualifications are, if any.