Cardone Reman Brake Booster = GARBAGE

This is extremely vague. Did you have the issue before swapping to another OEM booster? I'm under the assumption you did since you swapped parts. Throwing grenades at problems isn't the way to go.

Well I would not have swapped if I had no brake issues.

New napa calipers
OEM pads and rotors
New SS brakes lines
Multiple bleeds
New OEM check valve
Used OEM brake booster
New rear pads, turned OEM drums and adjusted

Only thing left really is the master. Everything works great other than panick braking. I get no assist for a good 2 to 3 seconds then it will start to assist.
 
Well I would not have swapped if I had no brake issues.

New napa calipers
OEM pads and rotors
New SS brakes lines
Multiple bleeds
New OEM check valve
Used OEM brake booster
New rear pads, turned OEM drums and adjusted

Only thing left really is the master. Everything works great other than panick braking. I get no assist for a good 2 to 3 seconds then it will start to assist.

Make sure you properly bench bleed the master cylinder or it just won't ever work right. Having it work right besides when you panic brake makes me believe it isn't the vacuum booster. There isnt anything inside of them that are going to operate differently when panic braking vs regular braking that I'm aware of.
 
Last edited:
Make sure you properly bench bleed the master cylinder or it just won't ever work right. Having it work right besides when you panic brake makes me believe it isn't the vacuum booster. There isnt anything inside of them that are going to operate differently when panic braking vs regular braking that I'm aware of.

The master never completely lost fluid and so should not need bench bleeding. May try that next when I get her ready to sell.
 
My 4runner is doing the same thing. Installed used OEM booster and same issue. When I panick stop I have no assist.


I took the truck back to my mechanic today and he agrees that I am not getting full boost, but the Booster is functioning. What he said was intriguing and I had not considered it.

I have a generic vacuum leak code and the vacuum lines are old, loose generally in ill repair. He seems very confident that the Booster is not benefitting from full vacuum, and the problem is exacerbated with a pedal stomp due to the high amount of vacuum quickly demanded. He pumped it a few times and concluded that the Booster is most definitely not getting all of the vacuum assist that it should be. Apparently if I fix the vacuum leak, he's pretty confident the brake performance will improve due to the increased vacuum to the Booster.

Additionally I have a really low idle right now which he is saying is worsening the lack of vacuum issue. He said to clean the throttle body and replace the crusty vacuum lines and see what happens.

I'll update back with results but it makes sense to me.
 
Last edited:
I took the truck back to my mechanic today and he agrees that I am not getting full boost, but the Booster is functioning. What he said was intriguing and I had not considered it.

I have a generic vacuum leak code and the vacuum lines are old, loose generally in ill repair. He seems very confident that the Booster is not benefitting from full vacuum, and the problem is exacerbated with a pedal stomp due to the high amount of vacuum quickly demanded. He pumped it a few times and concluded that the Booster is most definitely not getting all of the vacuum assist that it should be. Apparently if I fix the vacuum leak, he's pretty confident the brake performance will improve due to the increased vacuum to the Booster.

Additionally I have a really low idle right now which he is saying is worsening the lack of vacuum issue. He said to clean the throttle body and replace the crusty vacuum lines and see what happens.

I'll update back with results but it makes sense to me.

Thanks for update. I kind of thought the same thing was happening to me. So I went through every vacuum line possible and all seems well. I have a cheap ebay intake and went over all that thinking it was issue but cant find any leaks. I ran this intake for literally 8 years without issue but thinking of swapping stocker back in. Let me know what you find!
 
Thanks for update. I kind of thought the same thing was happening to me. So I went through every vacuum line possible and all seems well. I have a cheap ebay intake and went over all that thinking it was issue but cant find any leaks. I ran this intake for literally 8 years without issue but thinking of swapping stocker back in. Let me know what you find!

Not sure if it'll work in this instance but a lot of guys home make (myself included) a pvc pressure cap with a fitting(to hook up to an air compressor). Tape or clamp it on to your intake and now you can easily check for leaks without the car running. Probably only need like 20-30 pounds to test for any leaks. Great for testing leaking intake manifold gaskets (long story)

Basically the same thing as this:
YouTube

just without the cigar portion. You can also do the cigar/smoke testing instead if you like!
 
Not sure if it'll work in this instance but a lot of guys home make (myself included) a pvc pressure cap with a fitting(to hook up to an air compressor). Tape or clamp it on to your intake and now you can easily check for leaks without the car running. Probably only need like 20-30 pounds to test for any leaks. Great for testing leaking intake manifold gaskets (long story)

Basically the same thing as this:
YouTube

just without the cigar portion. You can also do the cigar/smoke testing instead if you like!

Yes that's how do we boost leaks on our turbo cars with a spray bottle and soapy water. But a home smoke machine vacuum tester would work also.

I'm going to sell it so might just let next owner know.
 
Thanks for update. I kind of thought the same thing was happening to me. So I went through every vacuum line possible and all seems well. I have a cheap ebay intake and went over all that thinking it was issue but cant find any leaks. I ran this intake for literally 8 years without issue but thinking of swapping stocker back in. Let me know what you find!

I know it's been a while but I think I got this figured out.

The cheap Chinese "reman" booster that was put on the truck was functioning, but I was suspicious about the check valve. I removed the check valve and blew into it both ways. It allowed backflow unless a lot of pressure was applied, and in the direction of flow there was a lot of resistance. I bought a Toyota original check valve, but the cheapo booster has a hole for the check valve that's not Toyota factory sized, so the Toyota valve was too large.

I went to Advance and bought a cheapo $6 dollar generic check valve, installed it, and voila. WAY better braking. There was so much resistance through that janky check valve that it wasn't allowing all the boost through.

I am wondering if I can find a Toyota vehicle with the smaller check valve so I can install a Toyota brand check valve, but for now the cheap plastic once has helped a lot.
 
I have never been impressed by 3rd gen 4runner brakes. Ive been driving cars since the 1960's Ive been twisting wrenches with my dad starting in the late 50's. my taco was the same, my 90's Toyota pickup ( before they were called tacos) stopped good, My 95 corolla stopped better. I went through everything after getting my 4runner. then I did the TBU, stainless lines, new cylinders in the back, new check valve, made sure the cams on the parking brake were good, bled, bled bled, before and after the tbu
while it stops good, im not impressed
but a whole lot better than the American drum brakes of the 50's. 60's and late 60's early 70's when discs were up front
 
[QUOTE=BamaDrewski
Just 16 months later, the POS has failed leaving me in the lurch. So, word of warning for anyone considered this brand (Cardone) of re-manufactured brake booster - DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY.

Agreed, Cardone sucks, after warrantying the racks in 3 different vehicles a total of 9 times I won't use them anymore. Local parts stores can't even get a Cardone rep to show his face. F them.
Also agree with 3bears that the Toyota 4 piston calipers suck, but the drum brakes last forever. I have also seen a lot of Toyota master cylinders fail suddenly for no reason. Boosters, not so much. Any new aftermarket parts are Chinese, just say no. Go with good aftermarket reman, or new, remanned, or used OEM. I think Napa has the better reman stuff.
 
I just found this thread while searching for brake boosters and wanted to give my 2 cents.

When I bought my 2000 4.5 years ago, the guy told me the only thing he had ever done to it was put a brake booster on it. Two years after I got it, that aftermarket booster went out, not sure what brand it was, but it was a cheapy. I bought one from Oriley's auto parts cause I needed one quick. It wasn't right from day 1. Over the course of a year I exchanged it 3 times for different ones, and every one of them was junk. One the pedal was stiff (some assist but not the right amount), one would feel fine till about half way through the pedal stroke, one felt ok, but would leak off vacum when parked. I finally took it back and told the counter I guy I wanted my $320+ dollars back. They counter guy literly looked at me and said, "Yea, these parts they sell now are all junk".

I found a used one ebay for $100, it wasn't OEM like they told me it was but the thing worked so I ran it. Year and a half later its starting to show some signs of possibly going out.

I can assure you I will be replacing it with a Seiken brand. No way was I going to pay 900+ at the dealer for one (why the heck are they so expensive anyway?) But if I can get a new Japanese built one for the same as a crappy reman I AM IN! All that to say thanks for the heads up!
 
Well fudge.
I bought a Wearever (Advanced Auto) reman a couple months back. Seems to work perfectly so far. Looked and fit like OEM, it was just painted silver.
Looking through Advance's site now, though, I'm seeing that it was a Cardone, too.

I guess we'll see. It says it has a lifetime warranty through Advanced, and it seems to be a part they keep on hand regularly.

I read a bunch of horror stories about people continuously getting bad OEM ones from junkyards, which is why I opted to get a new one from the parts store.
Not at all hard to change out, but gets tiring quick.
 
I have a Cardone reman booster on my truck. Put it on a couple years ago when the original booster failed (250k miles).

I haven't had any problems with it, and the brake pedal feel has been equivalent or superior to OEM.

Maybe I got lucky with a good one.
 
Just ordered one of the Seiken ones off partsgeek for $274 shipped. Sitting at 239k miles on the truck, figure its time to replace as part of my OCD preventative maintenance regimen since the truck gets out on trails quite a bit. Nothing wrong with original booster unit for now. Will likely get a new master cylinder with it while it's all apart. Thanks for the info guys!
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,312
Messages
3,554,089
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top