Cargo Drawers w/ pull out kitchen Build thread

[maddiesel67]

Beautiful set up.

Do you think your kitchen design is strong enough to support a fridge and MSA side drop slide on the sink section? I'm envisioning dropping the fridge to the drivers side, exposing the sink, obviously I'd have to lose the top drawer.

I'm racking my brain trying to figure out how to build something similar but keep the kitchen restricted to only one side of the cargo area so my GSD can have the other.

i think that would work. build the single kitchen drawer on the drivers side with the side drop/lower msa slide. when parked you can slide the fridge over to the passenger side and down with the dogs not in there.

 

[maddiesel67]

I like your setup would you consider building me a set? And how much


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i would but i have no idea on cost and shipping id have to add up a build sheet at the end. this thing is heavy. its 42x37x21 and every bit of 350lbs

 

[familymopar]

Great build!

 

[jetblack3s]

i would but i have no idea on cost and shipping id have to add up a build sheet at the end. this thing is heavy. its 42x37x21 and every bit of 350lbs

I can look into shipping just pm me without shipping cost


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[maddiesel67]

 

[jerad]

Bravo!

How deep is your small utensil drawer?? Are your cutting boards 1/2"? What was your final mounting points to the 4Runner??

I drew my design up last night in CAD, still massaging it into a workable model.

Thank you for the updates and photos, its inspirational.

 

[maddiesel67]

sorry for the terrible pictures but its all i have right now.

cutting boards are 1/2

sink section is 36
stove section is 28
utensil section is 28

 

[jerad]

I like that it's just using the factory tie downs, hopefully they are solid! If they are nutserts and visible from the bottom I'd get some longer stainless steel bolts with large washers and lock nuts then pass them through the nutserts and bolt them from the underside.

Another thought is to build a stand on wheels that perfectly matches the drawer system that you can roll up to the back of the 4Runner, connect it to the trailer hitch so it doesn't roll away then just push/pull the drawers straight out of the back onto the stand for when it's not needed.

Thanks for the measurements, but I was wondering how deep the utensil drawer was in the vertical dimension as in how much room for the utensils.

 

[maddiesel67]

2" deep inside
2 3/4 total

Bottom 1/4" walls 2" top 1/2"

 

[maddiesel67]

 

[jerad]

Nice bulkhead connectors. Will you be mounting your pump on the inside next to the sink or outside the box??

 

[Titanpat57]

sorry for the terrible pictures but its all i have right now.

cutting boards are 1/2

sink section is 36
stove section is 28
utensil section is 28

I think you may find these to be a little cleaner looking, and at least as strong as what you're using as a tie-down point.

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

Stainless Steel Light Duty Anchor Point (4-Pack)

Husky Stainless Steel Light Duty Anchor Point (4-Pack)-54520 - The Home Depot

I used a #14 pan head Phillips 3/4" screw...and I'm guessing you used a 1/2 ply side...so it'll stick thru the inside just a bit. I used a 3/16" pilot and screwed them in by hand.

Nice project...coming out great!

 

[maddiesel67]

Nice bulkhead connectors. Will you be mounting your pump on the inside next to the sink or outside the box??

pump is inside it sink section

i ordered a 45 degree barb fitting to help connect the drain.

 

[maddiesel67]

I think you may find these to be a little cleaner looking, and at least as strong as what you're using as a tie-down point.

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing.

Stainless Steel Light Duty Anchor Point (4-Pack)

Husky Stainless Steel Light Duty Anchor Point (4-Pack)-54520 - The Home Depot

I used a #14 pan head Phillips 3/4" screw...and I'm guessing you used a 1/2 ply side...so it'll stick thru the inside just a bit. I used a 3/16" pilot and screwed them in by hand.

Nice project...coming out great!

those would work! i would use t nuts and machine screws with them. i used a lot of t nuts on this project

 

[jerad]

Any updates??

 

[maddiesel67]

drain hooked up

 

[jerad]

Such a cool build, thanks for the photos.

Are you still running the factory suspension? How much do the boxes make it sag when closed up vs extended. My T4R should be delivered Friday, I hope to build something similar in the spring.

 

[maddiesel67]

I upgraded the rears to metaltech 3" overland/lt springs and bilstein 5160 shocks. Evenso theres quite a bit of play in the suspension. when its fully extended i would say fridge and all. Its 450lbs thats before i load the drawers up with 200lbs of gear. Wouldnt be surprised fully loaded 600-700 lbs back there. So you deff need HD SPRINGS.

 

[jerad]

Another idea would be to put an inline water filter before the pump just incase you ever need to use water from a not so ideal source. A little bleach and a filter, you'll be ok in a pinch.

 

[jrob]

Wow, that's some really nice work man!
Dig the sink setup for sure.

Not sure if you had the factory cargo tray or not, or if the holes are different, but I removed mine for my build. I then used the factory cargo tray mounting holes to secure the base of my cabinets, so it's fully bolted in.

The front (against the back seats) used 4 M6-1.0x90mm bolts
and the rear used 2 M10-1.25x80mm bolts. Just measured carefully and elongated the holes to allow for some misalignment. I'll try to get some pictures, but it came out super clean.
I have some pictures in my build thread of the cabinets I built. I'm not 100% complete yet, still have to make some changes before I upholster mine.

Awesome setup and finish man. Looks sharp!