n2advnture
New member
Would these be able to be tucked in?
Waddell Folding Banquet Table Legs (2-Pack)-2775 - The Home Depot
Cargo Drawers w/ pull out kitchen Build thread
- Thread starter maddiesel67
- Start date
Would these be able to be tucked in?
Waddell Folding Banquet Table Legs (2-Pack)-2775 - The Home Depot
maddiesel67
New member
you would have to make room for under the sink section. problem is is it the right height ? you need something with adjustable feet. its doable but would need to be engineered.
https://www.amazon.com/Products-013-135-Adjustable-Folding-Table/dp/B002N5YEZM
https://www.amazon.com/Products-013-135-Adjustable-Folding-Table/dp/B002N5YEZM
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Do you have any pics of how/where you mounted your cabinets? I am making a fridge slide for my cooler, and will be making a board to mount to the floor for my base..
Similar to this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/192482-5th-gen-arb-fridge-install.html
But... I may just do the whole floor with one piece (similar to the Goose Gear Plate) if I don't need to dill any holes..
maddiesel67
New member
im just using the factory tie downs with turnbuckles theres a pic on page 4. that wont work for you though.
jrob
New member
I don't have a picture of the actual bolts through the base, but here is a picture of the mounting points I used. I didn't drill any holes, just cut a piece of 3/4 to fit the entire tray area and used the factory threaded holes. I had the factory cargo tray though, and I have two threaded holes in the back that I don't see in the picture from the link you posted.
Attachments
I know you were taking about the CBI bumper earlier in the thread. What if you didn't have the legs hit the ground, what if you set it up where a leg locked into a rear shackle mount or equivalent. The distance would always be the same reguardless of terrain.
What bulkhead connectors are these? I'm searching for them without any luck. Finally have my 16TEP in the garage, CAD design is drawn up, now just getting all the parts to finalize the design before I start making saw dust.
Thanks!
maddiesel67
New member
Ambassador Marine Water Outlet, 316 Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRX14E4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_QDZxybCYNQM3B
Very interested in seeing your design, any questions at all ask glad to help
Very interested in seeing your design, any questions at all ask glad to help
Biggest difference is my drawer system will also hold 3 1lb tanks. I'll have hosing routed with a valve. The sink drain will be a piece of 3/8" hose that will come out of the small hole to the lower left of the tanks with a 90* adapter, the ~30 piece of hose will simply fit in the slider's space when the drawer is pushed in and fall towards the ground when the drawer is pulled out. I'll keep a longer hose and barbed connector if I want to route it elsewhere. I'm also considering using 1/4" Loc-Line that will fit in the same space, the Loc-Line would be nice because I can bend it and it'll hold its position until I stow the drawer. However, 1/4" will drain slowly and get clogged easier, but I will be using a screen filter trap in the sink.
I'll also have fold out supports for another horizontal surface
First drawer is 36", then 24", then 22". I'll be using KV 500 lb Slides for the first 2 and smaller KV 150lb slides for the last section. I've used these before and they are great. I'll be removing the lock-in feature from the large 2 slides and just using the latch, the lock out will still work. All size slides are lock out to eliminate the driver/passenger swaying like you'd get with just one lock out.
I plan on keeping the drivers and passengers drawers separate so I can remove them as needed. The fridge and MSA slide will be able to be mounted on either drawer. The cargo drawer will have a sliding cutting board that can be accessed when the drawer is partially opened and I can remove it if I don't need it.
My main water source will be 5gal Jerry cans, I've had larger mounted tanks in other vehicles and they were too hard to fill on the go. I'll have one mounted between the box and the drivers side rear bulkhead just behind the wheel well with a spare on the passengers side. At this time I don't think I'll plumb into the one on the passengers side, I'll just siphon from one to the other. Having an easily accessible jerry can on the passengers side means I can remove it and fill it easily. I'll use a 3/8" hose that is permanently connected and will simply pull out with the drawer and push back in when I close it, no need for water hook up with each use. I'll use an small automatic hose reel if it doesn't stow correctly on its own.
Thoughts?
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Any more progress?
I'm trying to figure out how you got your stove section to be 28" with your sink oriented the way you have it. What the overall depth of your outside casing? I'm basing mine off 36" deep, 11.75" tall and 48" wide.
maddiesel67
New member
your going to want to make the space for the stove as large as possible because you need room to setup your wind screen on either side of the stove
the 28" stove sections ends up under the sink. the sink is only 4.5" deep under the plywood top of the 36" sink section. the back edge of my stove section is prettty much touching the sink drain.
the 28" stove sections ends up under the sink. the sink is only 4.5" deep under the plywood top of the 36" sink section. the back edge of my stove section is prettty much touching the sink drain.
maddiesel67
New member
You are right on, I've made some adjustments to the initial design. I've received my sink, faucet, drain, etc. Still finalizing my design so I order the exact right slide lengths. Here is where I'm at:
36" Sink 2x Accuride 9308 Lock in/out
28" Stove 2x Accuride 9308 Lock in/out
26" utensils 2x Accudride 3307 Lock out
This photo has the side of the sink section and slide removed, it's tight, but should work when collapsed.
Photo from the rear.
While I'll be using water from Jerry Cans to feed water to the faucet for day to day use. For flexibility I am going to install two of these bulk head fittings where you installed your bulkhead fitting along with 2 12v 3-way electric water diverters so at the flip of the switch I can route water away from the faucet out a garden hose and/or instead of drawing water from my onboard Jerry Cans I can use a pick up hose from a bucket, stream, water spigot, etc.
Water hookups seen here:
Still using 1/2" Loc-Line for my drain, it's the blue tube seen above.
maddiesel67
New member
very nice i thought about using those quick connects.
another thing to consider is the placement of the water supply and drain. you may have to move the connections farther toward the back/outside the truck because you will not have enough room to connect them you will be hitting the tail light area.
another thing to consider is the placement of the water supply and drain. you may have to move the connections farther toward the back/outside the truck because you will not have enough room to connect them you will be hitting the tail light area.
very nice i thought about using those quick connects.
another thing to consider is the placement of the water supply and drain. you may have to move the connections farther toward the back/outside the truck because you will not have enough room to connect them you will be hitting the tail light area.
Great pointer on the placement of the supply/drain. I'm trying to keep additional storage on the stove section that eats into the area where you have your top bulkhead fitting. I could install them facing down or on the other side; I'll kick it around.
Thanks man, it makes it easier when I can just follow maddiesel's design.
A little progress is being made, I've almost got my design where I'm happy with it and ready to move forward once it warms up. I'll be running 2 black Scepter water cans, but they didn't show up well in the .jpg, so I made them red. Also, keep in mind I plan on this being 100% modular. I'll be building a 3/4" plywood base that will be bolted down in the rear of the 4runner. These boxes will all have the same mounting holes and will be able to be ran in any combination desired.
I probably won't run the top drawer unless we're camping. I'll leave it loaded with our camp gear all the time and slide it into place when we go out.
I probably won't run the top drawer unless we're camping. I'll leave it loaded with our camp gear all the time and slide it into place when we go out.
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p_j_o
New member
As someone how is still looking at all theses threads and trying to determine what I *need* vs WANT, keep it coming it's awesome!!!!
For those of you that have built a unit can I ask - why plywood? I understand MDF/Particle board is heavier and the whole moisture thing, but why not something like laminated Pine shelving boards? Agreed not as cheap, but WWWWAAAAAAYYYYY lighter. Just curious...
pjo
For those of you that have built a unit can I ask - why plywood? I understand MDF/Particle board is heavier and the whole moisture thing, but why not something like laminated Pine shelving boards? Agreed not as cheap, but WWWWAAAAAAYYYYY lighter. Just curious...
pjo
Once you have a set up like this, it will forever be a *need*. I did one in my JKU and I loved it.
As for the wood, I'm just a hobbiest woodworker and BB seems to be the wood of choice for these projects. I'm just following the crowd because I don't know any better
mad diesel, I've tried to contact CV accessories via their webpage a few times to order a slide and I've had no luck getting them to return my emails. Do you have a contact email you've used? Should I just email DionPraag(DELETE)@(REMOVE)Clearviewaccessories.com?
