CCDave's 1987 Turbo 4Runner Build

[CCDave]

The frame is in good shape, but could use a clean up and fresh paint. I dropped the spare and removed the spare brackets, bumper and it's brackets, tailpipe hanger, hitch, and mud flaps. Brushed and sanded the parts and the frame from the diff back, then applied POR-15 treatment to everything. After the POR-15 paint dried, I sprayed on a couple of coats of POR-15 Top Coat. I've seen other metal prep and paint products, but I'm happy with the results of the POR-15 product.

Some BEFORE pics ...
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7860/46337411985_a975b7d78e_z.jpg" width="640" height="459" alt="Spare-Tire-Mount">
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7857/33376030608_6a314d2815_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Rear-Mud-Flap-Brackets">
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7861/46337412035_0674a942a6_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Rear-Bumper-Brackets">

I replaced an adjustable shower curtain rod in my house 3 years ago, but couldn't bring my self to throw it away. I finally found a use for it ...
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7810/46337412165_7cee743080_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Parts-Painted-with-POR-15">
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7827/33376331058_2055981367_z.jpg" width="581" height="640" alt="Drying-after-POR15-application">

Installed parts with all new bolts ...
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7801/46337412005_1fbb4bac8b_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="Restored-Rear-Parts-Installed">

In the lower right of the last photo you can see what kind of shape the shocks are in - rusty and worn out. I ordered a new set of KYB shocks (OEM ride) from RockAuto and new set of hardware from ToyotaPartsDeal.

 

[Cali 4runner]

Nice work! I need to do that too..

 

[CCDave]

Nice work! I need to do that too..

Thanks.

I was surprised how accessible the back section of the frame, etc. became after removing the brackets and bumper. It made it much easier to check everything out and do the work.

 

[CCDave]

Another round of plating and detailing

Another round of electroplating old parts. Finished the Cruise Control Actuator parts, EFI Resistor bracket, Charcoal Cannister bracket, and various bolts, screws, and clamps.

Some Before and After shots. The one clamp had such a buildup of grime that I didn't realize there was a number on until after the degrease bath:
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4834/47397056481_702552ab8a_b.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Bolts-Clamp-Nuts-B-and-A">

This was the first time using a Blue Chromate finish and am very happy with the way the clamps turned out. The not too clean one in the middle was too far gone with rust and pitting to save.
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7882/47397054751_8145a7b8fd_b.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Blue-Chromate-Plating">

Cruise Control Actuator parts reassembled and final assembly of the parts on their bracket:
<img src="https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4909/47397056421_61dfd9e5cc_b.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Cruise-Control-Actuator-Assy---Assembled">

Right side of the engine bay after installing the replated parts:
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7852/47397056541_63a312fa81_b.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="Detailing-Right-Side-of-Engine-Bay-1">

 

[Cali 4runner]

Holy cow, that is awesome

 

[CCDave]

Holy cow, that is awesome

Thanks!

I read that the original factory finish on parts in the engine bay will last 3 to 5 years, after which the finish (not the metal) will begin to oxidize or wear down. I'm not sure how accurate this is, so curious if anyone has any experience with this.

The before and after of the Pressure Control Valve Assy:
<img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7839/47371024062_6b28bf2095_b.jpg" width="600" height="800" alt="1987-22RTE-Pressure-Control-Valve-Assy---Restored">

 

[CCDave]

Timing Chain Guide Finally Gave Out

Started hearing an unusual knock and an idling problem about a week ago so I pulled the valve cover to inspect the valve clearances and timing chain. The valves are good, but the plastic timing chain guide finally gave out.

Short video: Broken Timing Chain Guide Aug 8 2019 | djaeger22 | Flickr

If you look closely you can see the chain started cutting grooves on the inside wall of cover.
<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/31337/48499410401_5d548455dc_z.jpg" width="320" height="568" alt="Broken Timing Chain Guide Aug 8 2019"></a>

 

[CCDave]

Exhaust Manifold Gasket

With the timing chain guide needing replaced I decided to pull the head and get it inspected. I pulled the exhaust manifold yesterday (yes, I'm working slow on this project) and I found the front forward-most bolt was not tight and would not tighten.

Here's a photo of both sides of the exhaust manifold gasket. I count 3 leaks with one near the loose bolt (upper left in the top photo). At least now I know why I was hearing a faint sound of an exhaust leak.

<img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48611822757_75438b4fee_b.jpg" width="1024" height="769" alt="Exhaust-Manifold-Gasket-Inspect"></a>

 

[Ser1clymb]

When you are plating, do you have to protect the non-metal parts? Do you cover those parts or just not "dip" them?

Amazing work by the way. I look forward to seeing where this goes.

 

[CCDave]

When you are plating, do you have to protect the non-metal parts? Do you cover those parts or just not "dip" them?

Amazing work by the way. I look forward to seeing where this goes.

Thanks! I don't know if I have to, but I avoid dipping non-metal parts just to be safe. I carefully disassemble parts to separate the metal from non-metal, but if that's not possible I keep the non-metal out of the chemical clean and acid baths.

If you're considering plating your own parts, think safety first. Get the right breather, full coverage goggles, and set up in a ventilated space.