Thanks for the tip.
When I switched out my bank 2, I put in a parts store sensor and oem wire harness under the intake.
We are wondering if this is caused by
1. Sensitive sensors - YES Logical if NOT OEM.
2. Supercharger causing knock causing the sensors to trigger. - Not possible
The supercharger I have has the 2.2, Smaller pulley for lot more air, 7th injector spliced directly into the ecu to intercept cam, crank, pos and neg voltage to run the piggyback. That tells then 7th injector when to spray fuel and how much to spray. It also adjusts timing, which is why I keep an eye on it with my ultra gauge.
Not to mention that the 10-15 deg temps we have here bring a lot more cold dense air into the engine.
I can trigger my knock sensor while cruising at 2k rpm or slightly below. At 65 mph. And lightly push on the throttle. No audible ping/ knock while doing it ether. - Sounds correct
You may have beeen the one I was referring to who bypassed one KS and ran like that for a year ish with no problems. Or it may have been Texas ace???? Idk. - I went a year resetting the code until it got persistently worse. The splice was an awful idea.
Iirc our knock sensors create a positive, measurable voltage signal when the engine knocks this triggering the code. - Partially correct. The voltage signal is what the ECU uses to retard timing. The code is triggered because the ECU "sees" a malfunction that specific bank. It actually wants to see voltage. I'm going to try to disable/unplug my aftermarket sensor and see if that fixes anything. - Won't fix it that way. The ECU needs to see voltage from a KS. The only fix is to replace the aftermarket with the OEM.
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I've attached the troubleshooting pages from the manual.
Ok, quick clarification on a few things. I just looked at the logic and it's 1200 rpms. The ECU doesn't even monitor the KS system until over 1200 RPM's.
Once I cleared the CEL and shut down for the night, I could go out in the AM or right then and start it up and no CEL/Code until above 1200 rpm's.
You HAVE to go OEM on these damn things. The pixy dust they use when they design and build the PCB's inside the sensor are of the absolute highest quality. Aftermarket sensors aren't built to our specs. Aftermarket sensors are probably outsourced all over the world. Figure a PCB is outsourced to Indonesia and the sensor is made in Mexico and then it's all assembled in China. You can't skimp on the sensors at all. I've learned the hard way.
The sensor (I'm gonna look for a thread I did on Piezoelectric sensors and cut n' paste here) BRB...
OK here it is slightly edited..."Sensors don't "control" they "sense" and send piezoelectric signals in the way of voltage to the ECU to retard timing. The ECU monitors the sensors for voltage (an electrical charge from crystals/circuit board (PCB) inside the sensor) and processes the information it is receiving from the sensors to adjust the timing accordingly. If it doesn't see voltage above 1200 rpm when it needs it, it will generate a CEL and the applicable DTC - either Bank 1 or Bank 2."
Also at this time, because it can't rely on the sensor it has to use a defaulted value in the ECU to retard timing and protect the engine. This is why you will never hear detonation when a sensor or associated wiring fails. This is also why your gas gauge runs faster than your tach.
Only one code - 0330 tells me the ECU and the main wiring harness are working correctly. It could however, be the sub harness assy as it splits under the manifold. I've read where guys have pinched the sub-harness assy between the block and manifold.
Since you're running the URD setup you shouldn't have any problems with timing as you're getting plenty of fuel. (I'm not gonna dabble in the SC area as there are WAY TOO Many knowledgeable folks on here in that area including yourself - not me)
Here's a link with a good photo of the difference between the OEM and the NAPA brand. Two different leagues.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-everything-replaced-puzzled.html#post1901609
I think the biggest mis-conception on the forum from many of the new folks is thinking that our sensors actually control when realistically they're nothing more than "indicator lights" or "thermometers" providing health information back to the ECU. Our ECU demands the highest quality sensors you can get.
I'm heading out for while but will check back later on this evening if you have any questions.
