CEL P0333 after the oil change

ubergeek

New member
I think this is just a coincidence but after I had my truck oil changed at a local dealer, now I am seeing CEL P0333. It's a 2007 V6 4x4 with 130K miles on it.
P0333 indicates there is a problem with a knock sensor on the bank 2.
I would to know if this is a common problem to this truck or if this could be possibly caused by a handling error during chainging the oil/filter.

Regardless, I need to get this fixed and how difficult is it to get the sensor replaced? I can do basic stuff such as brake pad, coolent reservoir tank replacement but nothing too fancy.
Thx.
 
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I think this is just a coincidence but after I had my truck oil changed at a local dealer, now I am seeing CEL P0333. It's a 2007 V6 4x4 with 130K miles on it.
P0333 indicates there is a problem with a knock sensor on the bank 2.
I would to know if this is a common problem to this truck or if this could be possibly caused by a handling error during chainging the oil/filter.

Regardless, I need to get this fixed and how difficult is it to get the sensor replaced? I can do basic stuff such as brake pad, coolent reservoir tank replacement but nothing too fancy.
Thx.

It probably doesn't have anything to do with the oil change.

Im not exactly sure where the knock sensors are on the 4runner v6 but they are usually located underneath the intake manifold in the "V" of the motor, one in each head.
 
$2400 to replace the knock sensor

I dropped it off at the dealer and was told they would take a look. If it is a knock sensor it would be $2400 to replace it. Yup. I double checked with the service manager. Apparently they have to take out the whole engine (20 hours of work) to get it replaced which makes no sense. I am hoping it is not the case. I will report back when the dealer calls me back with the findings.


It probably doesn't have anything to do with the oil change.

Im not exactly sure where the knock sensors are on the 4runner v6 but they are usually located underneath the intake manifold in the "V" of the motor, one in each head.
 
Knock Sensor Replacement - Page 2 - Tacoma World Forums

Read post 22 in that link. Apparently you can change only one side without taking off the head. Seems like the other side you will need to remove the head to replace. Maybe you are lucky and the one that failed is the side you can replace without taking the head off.

Most likely some critter chewed on the wires in there. Usually these do not fail.
 
I dropped it off at the dealer and was told they would take a look. If it is a knock sensor it would be $2400 to replace it. Yup. I double checked with the service manager. Apparently they have to take out the whole engine (20 hours of work) to get it replaced which makes no sense. I am hoping it is not the case. I will report back when the dealer calls me back with the findings.

Oh bummer bro! Where are you taking your car?
 
I dropped it off at the dealer and was told they would take a look. If it is a knock sensor it would be $2400 to replace it. Yup. I double checked with the service manager. Apparently they have to take out the whole engine (20 hours of work) to get it replaced which makes no sense. I am hoping it is not the case. I will report back when the dealer calls me back with the findings.

So basically, I talked to some of my friends at Toyota. It sounds like you can probably remove both knock sensors without removing a head, but it depends on the tech/shop thats doing it. The dealers will most likely always sell you the repair "by the book", which is removing a head. You cant get a head off without removing the motor etc etc. There may be shortcuts to getting them that an independent shop may do for you. the dealers pay shitty, and thats where us techs need to make up for it unfortunatly. With that being said, the work that I do and most of my fellow dealer co workers is top notch.

Ive removed some knock sensors that everyone at my work said were impossible to get without removing intake manifolds, heads etc. gotta be crafty haha.

In any case, If your gonna spend all that money, do both and have them put some kind of rodent protection on them. Just touching a knock sensor can make them go bad. there very fragile due to all the extreme temp differences. HONDA makes a great rodent preventative tape that you can wrap the harness with . Ive used it many times. it works great! Plus it has pictures of little rats on the tape with a circle and line through them. Damn rodents!!
 
Thanks. That's good to know. The service advisor from the dealer called me to inform that they would have to remove the head to root cause the issue at $2200. I declined the offered and picked up the truck just now. The charged me for 1/2 hour since they couldn't get to the bottom of the issue. They did find a cable chewed off here and there by a rodent and believed the knock sensor problem is also caused by the same nature as you suspected.
Anyways, I don't think I will pay $2200 to get the stupid cable replaced but I do need to fix it before the annual emission test is due. Thanks for all the good suggestions and I will try to find a good independent shop here in Seattle.

So basically, I talked to some of my friends at Toyota. It sounds like you can probably remove both knock sensors without removing a head, but it depends on the tech/shop thats doing it. The dealers will most likely always sell you the repair "by the book", which is removing a head. You cant get a head off without removing the motor etc etc. There may be shortcuts to getting them that an independent shop may do for you. the dealers pay shitty, and thats where us techs need to make up for it unfortunatly. With that being said, the work that I do and most of my fellow dealer co workers is top notch.

Ive removed some knock sensors that everyone at my work said were impossible to get without removing intake manifolds, heads etc. gotta be crafty haha.

In any case, If your gonna spend all that money, do both and have them put some kind of rodent protection on them. Just touching a knock sensor can make them go bad. there very fragile due to all the extreme temp differences. HONDA makes a great rodent preventative tape that you can wrap the harness with . Ive used it many times. it works great! Plus it has pictures of little rats on the tape with a circle and line through them. Damn rodents!!
 
Thanks. That's good to know. The service advisor from the dealer called me to inform that they would have to remove the head to root cause the issue at $2200. I declined the offered and picked up the truck just now. The charged me for 1/2 hour since they couldn't get to the bottom of the issue. They did find a cable chewed off here and there by a rodent and believed the knock sensor problem is also caused by the same nature as you suspected.
Anyways, I don't think I will pay $2200 to get the stupid cable replaced but I do need to fix it before the annual emission test is due. Thanks for all the good suggestions and I will try to find a good independent shop here in Seattle.

If a rodent did chew through the wire, there is a replacement harness that goes between the knock sensors and the actual engine harness. Its usually about 5 inches long or so. This is most likely all you will need. Hopefully thats the only issue and you can get it replaced without too much hassle or cash. good luck!
 
Just wondering what the final outcome on this P0333 issue turned out to be...I just pulled the same code off my '06 V8. Anyone found a way to get to the knock sensor on bank 2 without pulling the intakes off?
 
Thanks. That's good to know. The service advisor from the dealer called me to inform that they would have to remove the head to root cause the issue at $2200. I declined the offered and picked up the truck just now. The charged me for 1/2 hour since they couldn't get to the bottom of the issue. They did find a cable chewed off here and there by a rodent and believed the knock sensor problem is also caused by the same nature as you suspected.
Anyways, I don't think I will pay $2200 to get the stupid cable replaced but I do need to fix it before the annual emission test is due. Thanks for all the good suggestions and I will try to find a good independent shop here in Seattle.

Curious as to the outcome of your situation? I'm getting the same code P0333, but mine only comes on at startup during the colder months, when the engine is medium warm. Not on a cold startup and not on a fully warmed up engine.
 

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