Changed Intake Manifold, now won't start.

The FPR line was nonexistent but I replaced it. I don't think I left rags in there...now second guessing...
 
So, replaced injector orings and put it all back together. Noticed carbon build up in the new manifold. I thought I cleaned it pretty good before I put it in. Now it starts but idles about 2 sec and then dies. If I hold my foot on the gas and start it it backfires...not sure if that's right but it pops in a low tone.

It will do that for a bit and then need a long continuous crank to turn over again. It's like it's getting gas but only for start up.

My torque wrench sucks. Would wrong torque on the fuel rail make this happen? Everything else seems plugged in and good to go.
 
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Ok....so after checking the MAF sensor fir the zillionth time, I convinced myself it had to be something to do with that. I've left it unplugged before and it was doing this same thing. So I took a good hard look at my intake tube and found a huge gash in it by the throttle body. I cut it off and rammed the rest over the TB. It's idleing now but very rough.

So...thanks for the advice/sounding board:) will update if I make it to work tomorrow.
 
Any codes?

You don't want to crush an injector but as long as you are in the ballpark for torque spec (which I don't know) on the rail you should be OK. It sounds like an injector may have gone south.
 
Any codes?

You don't want to crush an injector but as long as you are in the ballpark for torque spec (which I don't know) on the rail you should be OK. It sounds like an injector may have gone south.

Check engine light is on but its drivable. I'll get CEL checked on the way home.
 
I figured the CEL wouldn't be a big deal. Just misfires and such. Cleared them and don't expect them back. Hose clamped the tube and ordered the airaid jr because all the runners at the local junk yard are worse than mine. Merry Christmas to me!
 
Do you know if you have spark? Make sure everything is connected.

I just needed to remove the fuel rail jumper, then with a swivel and a 19mm socket, remove the ECT sensor. 25ft/lbs for those bolts that hold the jumper to both sides of the rail.

Update:
I drove it with the shortened intake a couple days before my airaid came in. It drove ok but never settled on an idle (1100-1200). I put the airaid tube in and it idled high (1000) but better. After about 200 miles the idle settled and it's running better than ever. No CEL, idle right at 750 and smooth. No noticeable noise from the airaid.

Lesson learned: try a little harder on the easy way and don't strip bolts! I got a couple replacement jumper line bolts so when I have to change that sensor again it'll be easier...just turned 290,000 so I'll be about 60 when I need to do it again...

Thanks for the help:)
 

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