changing brakes on '04 Limited

[dave4242]

I have a 2004 T4R Limited, and the brakes on the front are starting to squeal at 39,000 miles.
I am intending to replace the front pads. Do they tend to wear out quicker than the rears?
Also, I did a search and found how to replace the front pads. Is the procedure the same for the rears? Thanks.

 

[msanta]

The front pads tend to wear quicker than the rear because most of the vehicle's weight is on the front. Also, V8's will probably wear sooner than V6's because of the extra weight that the V8 has since is a heavier and bigger engine. The procedure for replacing the rear pads is basically the same. I found the rear pads to be easier, maybe because I did the front first. Make sure you follow the postings on how to install the pads, they are very helpful! Good luck...

 

[TechWrench]

I have a 2004 T4R Limited, and the brakes on the front are starting to squeal at 39,000 miles.
I am intending to replace the front pads. Do they tend to wear out quicker than the rears?
Also, I did a search and found how to replace the front pads. Is the procedure the same for the rears? Thanks.

I'm fairly sure the brakes on the '04 are the same type as the '03. And on my '03, the front and rear calipers are different types, and the procedure for replacing the pads is different. The front calipers are fixed position calipers with 4 pistons (two on each side). The front caliper has two pins that hold the pads in place, and they must be punched out, using a pin punch, then the pads can be removed. The pistons, all four, have to be pressed back into each half of the caliper before the new pads can be installed, and the retaining pins replaced. The rear calipers are of the 'floating' type, with just one piston. The movable part of the caliper has to be unbolted from the frame, and rotated up to get at the pads. The new pads are installed in the frame, the piston is pressed back into the calipe, and it is rotated back into place and the bolt replaced. There is more to the process, like inspection, and cleaning, than I have mentioned. I believe there is a more detailed explanation in the how-to section.

 

[Kmvreter]

Re: Re: changing brakes on '04 Limited

The front caliper has two pins that hold the pads in place, and they must be punched out, using a pin punch, then the pads can be removed. The pistons, all four, have to be pressed back into each half of the caliper before the new pads can be installed, and the retaining pins replaced.... I believe there is a more detailed explanation in the how-to section.

I'm planning to do the front brakes. I searched but can't find (or I missed) a detailed write-up (preferably with pics.) I know they are real easy to do and I'm mechanically inclined but here are my questions:
How do you push the pistons back in with a C-clamp (before or after removing the pads?) if the caliper is still mounted (isn't the rotor in the way?)
Do you have to release the fluid/bleeder nut in order to get the pistons back in?

 

[TechWrench]

Re: Re: Re: changing brakes on '04 Limited

I'm planning to do the front brakes. I searched but can't find (or I missed) a detailed write-up (preferably with pics.) I know they are real easy to do and I'm mechanically inclined but here are my questions:
How do you push the pistons back in with a C-clamp (before or after removing the pads?) if the caliper is still mounted (isn't the rotor in the way?)
Do you have to release the fluid/bleeder nut in order to get the pistons back in?

I'm short on time now, so I can't go into a detailed procedure, but I will try to answer some of your questions.

If the individual pistons aren't frozen, they will usually press back into place with a set of external snap ring pliers ( they look like regular needle nose pliers, except the ends spread apart when you squeeze the handles), but you have to remove the pads first. If you have a frozen or very difficult piston, then you will need to unbolt the caliper from the hub in order to use a c-clamp to reseat the stubborn piston. Since the inside of the piston is hollow, I use a socket inside it to keep the c-clamp centered.

You DON'T want to open the bleeder screw when pressing the pistons back in place. You will loose fluid you don't have to. If you haven't added any fluid to the master cylinder, it will have more than enough room for the fluid to flow back into the reservoir so none is lost.

 

[Kmvreter]

TechWrench,
Thanks for the reply and tips. That answers my questions.

 

[MikeInNH]

The front pads tend to wear quicker than the rear because most of the vehicle's weight is on the front.

Even on a Rear or Mid engine vehicle the brakes wear quicker in the front then rears. Has nothing to do with WHERE the weight is. It's where the weight is when you STOP. The weight of the vehicle SHIFTS toward the front as you stop. As you drive the weight is pressing down toward the ground...But when you hit the brakes...the weight shifts forward...thus wearing out the front brakes more.

 

[dave4242]

OK, I'm finally going to replace my front pads at 47,000 miles. The pads are down to 2mm. I have had no problems with pulsation, etc.
Do you guys still recommend having rotors resurfaced? I have read arguments both for and against having rotors turned. If recommended, where would I bring them in my area? There is no machine shop I know of. Thanks.
Dave

 

[TechWrench]

OK, I'm finally going to replace my front pads at 47,000 miles. The pads are down to 2mm. I have had no problems with pulsation, etc.
Do you guys still recommend having rotors resurfaced? I have read arguments both for and against having rotors turned. If recommended, where would I bring them in my area? There is no machine shop I know of. Thanks.
Dave

I don't know what auto supply outlets you have in your area. In my area, most NAPA stores have a machine shop on site for basic work, like rotor/drum resurfacing. But, I would seriously check into the cost of a new set, compared to resurfacing the old ones. I just replaced the rear set on my '03, and they cost $60.07 for both including state sales tax. Hardly seems worth the effort of taking the old ones off, carting them to the shop, driving back to pick them up when done, and then putting them back on. If you have a set of new ones ready to go, with new pads, it shouldn't take more than an hour to do both sides if nothing goes wrong.

 

[wolfgang]

I'd just rough up the surface of your old rotors with emery paper or sandpaper to break any heat caused surface glazing.

$60 for a pair of rear rotor for a 4Runner might get you rotors from India or China - I've not been impressed with their steel quality. You're probably getting part of a Yugo and some of the World Trade Center recycled steel.

 

[dave4242]

What grit sandpaper would you use? 100?

 

[gilligan79]

anyone know where I can find a write up.

I have a problem with the bolts that are holding the calpier to the hub. They have been cut across the threads all the way to the top. They look like a tap. not quite as wide, but still grooved. I cannot imagine why they would do this. Had one hella of a time trying to get them back in so I could get to work tomorrow.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[TechWrench]

anyone know where I can find a write up.

I have a problem with the bolts that are holding the calpier to the hub. They have been cut across the threads all the way to the top. They look like a tap. not quite as wide, but still grooved. I cannot imagine why they would do this. Had one hella of a time trying to get them back in so I could get to work tomorrow.

Any help would be appreciated.

Not sure why they cut the bolts in that manner The only reason I can think of is to allow the cut in the threads to act as a self-cleaning cut for the threads. In any case, that cut shouldn't interfere with the function of the bolt. As long as the threads on either the bolt, or the hub weren't damaged, the bolt should thread back in. Did you try blowing some air into the threaded hole to make sure any debris was cleared out? Also make sure the threads on the bolt are clean, wire brush them if necessary, and use never-seize on the threads before putting the bolt back in.

 

[gilligan79]

Sorry I did not mean to highjack your thread.

Thanks I ordered new bolts from the dealer. Will be here tomorrow. Have you ever heard of pads moving around in the caliper? When I back or even drive forward I hear a thump like something had moved just a tiny bit.

Thanks Again

 

[TechWrench]

Sorry I did not mean to highjack your thread.

Thanks I ordered new bolts from the dealer. Will be here tomorrow. Have you ever heard of pads moving around in the caliper? When I back or even drive forward I hear a thump like something had moved just a tiny bit.

Thanks Again

As long as you installed the correct pads, they shouldn't be able to move very much when the disk changes rotation direction. There should be some spring like clips mounted on the top and bottom of each side of the caliper frame that the pads ride on, and they should only allow for the pads to move in and out as the caliper pistons push on them. If these spring clips are missing, then the pads could move enough to make a noise.