check off list for F150 tank swap

[hntz4x4]

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger to order everything I need to do the F150 tank swap into my 96. But I may still have questions also.

1) EimKeith FTR kit

2) Spectra #F1G1FA Fuel Tank with Pump (Rock Auto seems to have best price)

3) Vapor Valve #E7DZ-9B593-A (probably from Amazon)
Vapor Valve Seal

4) Autometer #3618 Fuel Gauge 16E/158F ohm (Summit)

5) Weld in bung to use factory vent tube (does anyone know what size?)

6) Various sizes of fuel line and fuel injection clamps to connect everything.

Anything I'm missing?

Thank You,
Ryan

 

[midcoma]

[MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION] sending unit kit if they're still available.
Weld in vent for 1/2" hose.

I think I see what you're doing with the Vapor Valve #E7DZ-9B593-A. If you plan to use it for the evap line that goes to the charcoal canister, it will probably work. I still think I would weld the flange for the Toyota evap hose over the center hole in the tank instead though. The internal hole in the Ford style valve is probably 1/16".

Put a good amount of thought into what you want to use for fuel lines. My last time around I used the Ford quick connect fittings and nylon fuel line. Added some inverted flare to barbed fittings on the hard lines near the fuel filter. I'm happy with how that turned out but I probably couldn't have done it without the Eastwood flaring tool.

I just did this about 9 months ago, so let me know if you have any more questions.

 

[hntz4x4]

I thought the [MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION] sending unit kit only worked on 99-02 rigs?

I got the Vapor Valve part from [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] write up on his swap.

Thank you for your advice.

Ryan

[MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION] sending unit kit if they're still available.
Weld in vent for 1/2" hose.

I think I see what you're doing with the Vapor Valve #E7DZ-9B593-A. If you plan to use it for the evap line that goes to the charcoal canister, it will probably work. I still think I would weld the flange for the Toyota evap hose over the center hole in the tank instead though. The internal hole in the Ford style valve is probably 1/16".

Put a good amount of thought into what you want to use for fuel lines. My last time around I used the Ford quick connect fittings and nylon fuel line. Added some inverted flare to barbed fittings on the hard lines near the fuel filter. I'm happy with how that turned out but I probably couldn't have done it without the Eastwood flaring tool.

I just did this about 9 months ago, so let me know if you have any more questions.

 

[Team_Jake]

I thought the [MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION] sending unit kit only worked on 99-02 rigs?

I got the Vapor Valve part from [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] write up on his swap.

Thank you for your advice.

Ryan

Correct, my sending unit kit is only for 99-02 4unners (3rd gens with a digital odometer). I believe using a calibration device like the one made by Speedway can get the fuel gauge in the dash to work like stock on '96-'98 4runners.

 

[hntz4x4]

Thank you for the suggestion [MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION]. Hadn't come across that calibration device trying to read through stuff. I wonder if anyone has successfully used that device on their 96-98 swap? I'd rather not have to mount a separate fuel gauge.

Correct, my sending unit kit is only for 99-02 4unners (3rd gens with a digital odometer). I believe using a calibration device like the one made by Speedway can get the fuel gauge in the dash to work like stock on '96-'98 4runners.

 

[Iron duke]

This doesn't have to do with fitting the tank in the truck, but wouldn't it be pretty unsafe for the gas tank to be right there in the event of a rear end accident?

 

[hntz4x4]

I'm quite certain my CBI rear bumper offers plenty of protection of my rear end

This doesn't have to do with fitting the tank in the truck, but wouldn't it be pretty unsafe for the gas tank to be right there in the event of a rear end accident?

 

[Team_Jake]

This doesn't have to do with fitting the tank in the truck, but wouldn't it be pretty unsafe for the gas tank to be right there in the event of a rear end accident?

Many popular 4x4s locate the gas tank behind the rear axle from the factory. Jeep XJs, ZJs, WJs, all pre 2021 Ford Broncos, all K5 Blazers, I could go on.

 

[Iron duke]

Many popular 4x4s locate the gas tank behind the rear axle from the factory. Jeep XJs, ZJs, WJs, all pre 2021 Ford Broncos, all K5 Blazers, I could go on.

True, although none of those vehicles were known for their safety. IIHS and NHTSA are valuable resources to look into this. Our 3rd gens have very high crash test ratings, just wondering if this would have an effect on that.

 

[Team_Jake]

True, although none of those vehicles were known for their safety. IIHS and NHTSA are valuable resources to look into this. Our 3rd gens have very high crash test ratings, just wondering if this would have an effect on that.

3rd gens are not safe trucks. These things are notorious for rollovers, hence why in 2000 Toyota lowered the stock ride height. Then all of us decide we want to lift our 4Runner a couple inches with larger tires, raising the COG is a few inches higher than stock making the problem worse. The ABS systems are also worthless, so that rollover may have been avoided if you were able to stop in time. If safety is your concern then sell the 4Runner and get a Volvo.

 

[Iron duke]

3rd gens are not safe trucks. These things are notorious for rollovers, hence why in 2000 Toyota lowered the stock ride height. Then all of us decide we want to lift our 4Runner a couple inches with larger tires, raising the COG is a few inches higher than stock making the problem worse. The ABS systems are also worthless, so that rollover may have been avoided if you were able to stop in time. If safety is your concern then sell the 4Runner and get a Volvo.

The actual crash test safety ratings for 4Runners are very good. Rollovers and abs “problems” are more accredited to non defensive driving. Of course a 20-25 year old body on frame suv isn’t going to have great accident avoidance or short stopping distances. That’s on the driver to know what they are driving and to drive that vehicle accordingly.

 

[hntz4x4]

[MENTION=118207]midcoma[/MENTION] I like your suggestion about welding in the Toyota evap flange over that hole, leaning that way now.
[MENTION=177008]Team_Jake[/MENTION] I called Speedway and explained the swap I'm intending and the tech was 80-90% sure their fuel gauge calibration device should work. Plus the device is barely more $ than an aftermarket fuel gauge.

Thanks guys.

 

[pfeenstra]

I have the F150 tank from Spectra in my 4runner. I bought a different calibration device but ended up not using it, the calibration process was such a massive PITA. In the end, I hooked the Ford sender up to the original gauge. Most of the time the needle is at E for the Extra tank, when it gets to full I know I'm going to run out of gas soon. When it starts sputtering I hit the button to switch back to stock tank.

The biggest questions I have are A) how are you going to fill the tank. I was never able to figure out a way to make it really work without spilling gas all over the ground, and B) are you going to replace the fuel pump. The Ford fuel pump doesn't put out enough flow for the 4runner engine in 2nd gear when you go wide open throttle.

 

[shadow247]

I have the F150 tank from Spectra in my 4runner. I bought a different calibration device but ended up not using it, the calibration process was such a massive PITA. In the end, I hooked the Ford sender up to the original gauge. Most of the time the needle is at E for the Extra tank, when it gets to full I know I'm going to run out of gas soon. When it starts sputtering I hit the button to switch back to stock tank.

The biggest questions I have are A) how are you going to fill the tank. I was never able to figure out a way to make it really work without spilling gas all over the ground, and B) are you going to replace the fuel pump. The Ford fuel pump doesn't put out enough flow for the 4runner engine in 2nd gear when you go wide open throttle.

My plan is to just have the Ford pump dump into the OEM tank via the Fuel Filler neck. No need to hook up to the factory fuel lines or worry about evap problems. There was another member on here who did it that way.

 

[hntz4x4]

I have the F150 tank from Spectra in my 4runner. I bought a different calibration device but ended up not using it, the calibration process was such a massive PITA. In the end, I hooked the Ford sender up to the original gauge. Most of the time the needle is at E for the Extra tank, when it gets to full I know I'm going to run out of gas soon. When it starts sputtering I hit the button to switch back to stock tank.

The biggest questions I have are A) how are you going to fill the tank. I was never able to figure out a way to make it really work without spilling gas all over the ground, and B) are you going to replace the fuel pump. The Ford fuel pump doesn't put out enough flow for the 4runner engine in 2nd gear when you go wide open throttle.

The reasons why I planned to do this swap was 1)my factory is all dented up, thus my sending unit is messed up. 2)I'm tired of my driveshaft rubbing on the factory skid plate.

A) My plan was to eliminate the factory tank, so I was going to reroute a fill tube to the new rear mounted tank. B) I was unaware of the Ford fuel pump being inadequate, I didn't come across that in my reading up. If that's the case, you have me rethinking this.

Doing the F150 tank swap came in cheaper than replacing the factory tank, getting a new pump/sending unit and then getting a proper tank skid plate.

 

[T4topher]

Is this going to be your main fuel tank? Or is this going to be an auxiliary fuel tank for extra fuel? Few things I’ve learned since doing my f150 swap (main tank). Use hard fuel lines don’t use rubber. You can use AN lines but have to get the plastic lined ones. Do it right and run hard lines though (I used copper nickel lines from 4lifetimelines). I’ve replaced the fuel lines 3 times at this point because I keep my 4runner in the garage and can’t stand smelling fuel vapor when I walk by it. You will get vapor seeping through any rubber line I promise you. Also I ended up welding on all the Toyota stuff from my factory tank partly because I have to go through smog but also partly because I’ve read that the ford fuel pump is not equivalent to the oem Toyota one. They do however make pumps that you can swap in that are equivalent but are $$. Get the upper straps for the tank as well, very hard to find and I don’t remember where I got them but definitely good to have so your tank isn’t just floating back there. If you can avoid doing the f150 tank swap then do so, I wish I would’ve left my stock tank honestly. Reason I had to move it was because I installed dual transfercases and kept the automatic transmission. In hindsight I should’ve just gotten a manual transmission and not done the f150 tank. Hope this is helpful.

Edit: oh yea and don’t mess up the two lines that are the same size or else you’ll be filling up you charcoal canister with gas, ask me how I know lol…

 

[hntz4x4]

Is this going to be your main fuel tank? Or is this going to be an auxiliary fuel tank for extra fuel? Few things I’ve learned since doing my f150 swap (main tank). Use hard fuel lines don’t use rubber. You can use AN lines but have to get the plastic lined ones. Do it right and run hard lines though (I used copper nickel lines from 4lifetimelines). I’ve replaced the fuel lines 3 times at this point because I keep my 4runner in the garage and can’t stand smelling fuel vapor when I walk by it. You will get vapor seeping through any rubber line I promise you. Also I ended up welding on all the Toyota stuff from my factory tank partly because I have to go through smog but also partly because I’ve read that the ford fuel pump is not equivalent to the oem Toyota one. They do however make pumps that you can swap in that are equivalent but are $$. Get the upper straps for the tank as well, very hard to find and I don’t remember where I got them but definitely good to have so your tank isn’t just floating back there. If you can avoid doing the f150 tank swap then do so, I wish I would’ve left my stock tank honestly. Reason I had to move it was because I installed dual transfercases and kept the automatic transmission. In hindsight I should’ve just gotten a manual transmission and not done the f150 tank. Hope this is helpful.

Edit: oh yea and don’t mess up the two lines that are the same size or else you’ll be filling up you charcoal canister with gas, ask me how I know lol…

This was going to be my main tank.

Thank you very much for your input, you got me rethinking my plan. Maybe this project is more involved than I really want it to be, to not be done half ass. I thought another benefit of doing this tank swap was more room for dual cases as you mentioned (on my wish list to do some day). But I did a little reading and it seems going dual cases in my auto 96 is still doable with the factory tank in place. Really glad I haven't ordered any of the parts yet.

Reading through your build you definitely have spent a lot of time on getting your modifications really dialed in. Unfortunately I don't have as much free time to "build", that's part of the reason I bought a rig that was pretty built already.

Ryan

 

[T4topher]

This was going to be my main tank.

Thank you very much for your input, you got me rethinking my plan. Maybe this project is more involved than I really want it to be, to not be done half ass. I thought another benefit of doing this tank swap was more room for dual cases as you mentioned (on my wish list to do some day). But I did a little reading and it seems going dual cases in my auto 96 is still doable with the factory tank in place. Really glad I haven't ordered any of the parts yet.

Reading through your build you definitely have spent a lot of time on getting your modifications really dialed in. Unfortunately I don't have as much free time to "build", that's part of the reason I bought a rig that was pretty built already.

Ryan

No problem, glad I could use my learning/experiences to help someone else. Honestly I went into the f150 tank swap thinking the same thing your thinking that it was pretty simple cut and dry, in reality it’s super custom and I had to do a lot of “learn it the hard way” lol. Dual cases is possible to keep the stock tank with auto but you will have to modify the crossmember and maybe a little on the tank itself, hard to say. If you want to keep the auto I recommend looking into northwestfab, a few ppl on here have his dual case setup. Not sure as to how proven his setup is compared to marlin crawler/TG though. For measurements sake I think marlins/TG is 8.5” vs northwest fab is 6.5” added length to your drivetrain, go and measure from the back of your transfercase and you will see.

 

[hntz4x4]

[MENTION=271883]T4topher[/MENTION] I crawled under the 4runner and have about 10” from rear t-case flange to the gas tank. I did a little reading on the northwestoy setup.

 

[shadow247]

[MENTION=271883]T4topher[/MENTION] I crawled under the 4runner and have about 10” from rear t-case flange to the gas tank. I did a little reading on the northwestoy setup.

As long as you have a Jshift Tcase without the Actuator motor on the back, you can run the NWFab kit.