shadow247
New member
I'm wondering if the Check Valve is my issue? I'm getting no codes, but sometimes I get a strong gas smell around the fuel filler neck. Its REALLY bad when I go offroad, but it happens every once in a while.
Fixed my P0440 Evap code too! 2002 SR5 4x4 - COMPLETE FUEL AND EVAP PARTS LISTS
- Thread starter negusm
- Start date
I'm wondering if the Check Valve is my issue? I'm getting no codes, but sometimes I get a strong gas smell around the fuel filler neck. Its REALLY bad when I go offroad, but it happens every once in a while.
MStudt
official vendor
19963.4lsr5
New member
Is your EVAP readiness monitor set? If it’s not it will not code EVAP issues.
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P0440, 0441, 0446 Codes
Thanks for the great write up! I currently have 3 codes and the smell of gas outside of the car. Additionally, several months ago I was off-roading and on a steep incline and smelled gas. I looked under the car and saw a stream of gas flowing out of the top of the tank.
I've spent the weekend diagnosing potential issues using the tests found in the FSM and another thread titled: "P0440 Fixed!". A fuel tank pressure test revealed that a large amount of air was flowing from the check valve. I put my hand through the hole in the floor under the back seat and felt air coming from the check valve. I also performed a test to check the check valve and it failed. I also tested the VSV on the charcoal canister and it failed (it was as if there was no longer a valve inside). While the charcoal canister was out I performed pressure and vacuum tests on the canister. It passed the pressure tests but failed the vacuum ( I was not able to achieve any vacuum). The charcoal in the canister can also be easily heard when moving it or shaking it.
I've come to the conclusion that my check valve/gasket is shot and the charcoal canister needs to be replaced. Due to the cost of canister I'm planning on fixing the issues on the tank first and going from there. I've ordered a new check valve/gasket and a cut-off valve. I'm having trouble finding a gasket for the cut-off valve and appreciate any help! If there are any suggestions as well please feel free to share.
Thanks for the great write up! I currently have 3 codes and the smell of gas outside of the car. Additionally, several months ago I was off-roading and on a steep incline and smelled gas. I looked under the car and saw a stream of gas flowing out of the top of the tank.
I've spent the weekend diagnosing potential issues using the tests found in the FSM and another thread titled: "P0440 Fixed!". A fuel tank pressure test revealed that a large amount of air was flowing from the check valve. I put my hand through the hole in the floor under the back seat and felt air coming from the check valve. I also performed a test to check the check valve and it failed. I also tested the VSV on the charcoal canister and it failed (it was as if there was no longer a valve inside). While the charcoal canister was out I performed pressure and vacuum tests on the canister. It passed the pressure tests but failed the vacuum ( I was not able to achieve any vacuum). The charcoal in the canister can also be easily heard when moving it or shaking it.
I've come to the conclusion that my check valve/gasket is shot and the charcoal canister needs to be replaced. Due to the cost of canister I'm planning on fixing the issues on the tank first and going from there. I've ordered a new check valve/gasket and a cut-off valve. I'm having trouble finding a gasket for the cut-off valve and appreciate any help! If there are any suggestions as well please feel free to share.
Late_Night
Junior Member
Hey, going to replace the hoses too while doing this on my 2002, you get the sizes figured out?
It mentions 6 mm and 8 mm earlier in the post... I measured the OD of some of the hard line to hose tubing and it was all over the place, like 6.5 mm - 10.5 mm... :crazy:
OpenYota
New member
I too went down the hose diameter journey to no avail.
I ended up buying a set of mixed diameter fuel hoses from Jeff Bezos that ranged in different sizes and chose the size that best fit and attached with worm clamps.
I believe it was 3/16th or 3/8th? Something along those lines.
Late_Night
Junior Member
Thanks for the heads up, going to have some brass 8mm/10mm nipple adapters ready for the mixed size hoses.
Otherwise, I bit the bullet and ordered OEM hoses, not all of which are available, so there will be some hose rigging.
Will report back on sizing for my CA 2002.
Late_Night
Junior Member
Many thanks negusm for this post, VERY helpful and good advice!
Just finished tank drop fuel delivery / charcoal canister replacement.
There were no codes on my truck, but at 22 years old, I am replacing items like these.
Totally agree with the points negusm makes with the parts lists if you can afford it, especially with the charcoal canister, that thing would be a can of worms to replace hoses etc.
All lines were just cut in this case to ease removal.
I opted to replace the Fuel Filler Hose 77213-35360, and the fuel filter.
Reused the existing Fuel Pump Cushion 23249-74610.
Using the fuel pump to drain the tank helped make it more manageable.
Alligator clips to the two terminals and a battery, +/- shown activates the pump, and with the flexible fuel line disconnected it can be directed into a container.
While the tank was out I cleaned the inside of the tank and painted the skid plate / tank exterior.
Cleaning the tank interior was essential for me since the gaskets crumbled during removal. It was pretty clean and no rust. Used KBS Coatings 2400 KBS Klean for cleaning, then lots of rinsing and air dry overnight.
The tank has some type of outer coating, maybe an epoxy based undercoating, it was more chemical resistant than the wheel well coating. Wire wheel --> Maroon scotch brite --> degrease --> Eastwood rust encapsulator on rusted areas --> Raptor tough undercoating. (the Raptor is a good coating, but the nozzle kept clogging, beware)
Lastly, as negsmn states, all lines needed are a combo of 6 mm and 8 mm. The / any 10 mm lines come with the charcoal canister assembly.
Check out the hose sizes and approx lengths with part numbers in the attached drawings. A few hoses were discontinued, but were easy enough to size with off the shelf fuel line.
I used vac grease only on vac lines, and a little oil on any lines that carry fuel.
Off to smog soon, and these systems should be good for another 20 years if I am lucky.
Appreciate y'all!
Just finished tank drop fuel delivery / charcoal canister replacement.
There were no codes on my truck, but at 22 years old, I am replacing items like these.
Totally agree with the points negusm makes with the parts lists if you can afford it, especially with the charcoal canister, that thing would be a can of worms to replace hoses etc.
All lines were just cut in this case to ease removal.
I opted to replace the Fuel Filler Hose 77213-35360, and the fuel filter.
Reused the existing Fuel Pump Cushion 23249-74610.
Using the fuel pump to drain the tank helped make it more manageable.
Alligator clips to the two terminals and a battery, +/- shown activates the pump, and with the flexible fuel line disconnected it can be directed into a container.
While the tank was out I cleaned the inside of the tank and painted the skid plate / tank exterior.
Cleaning the tank interior was essential for me since the gaskets crumbled during removal. It was pretty clean and no rust. Used KBS Coatings 2400 KBS Klean for cleaning, then lots of rinsing and air dry overnight.
The tank has some type of outer coating, maybe an epoxy based undercoating, it was more chemical resistant than the wheel well coating. Wire wheel --> Maroon scotch brite --> degrease --> Eastwood rust encapsulator on rusted areas --> Raptor tough undercoating. (the Raptor is a good coating, but the nozzle kept clogging, beware)
Lastly, as negsmn states, all lines needed are a combo of 6 mm and 8 mm. The / any 10 mm lines come with the charcoal canister assembly.
Check out the hose sizes and approx lengths with part numbers in the attached drawings. A few hoses were discontinued, but were easy enough to size with off the shelf fuel line.
I used vac grease only on vac lines, and a little oil on any lines that carry fuel.
Off to smog soon, and these systems should be good for another 20 years if I am lucky.
Appreciate y'all!
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Comebackcarol@gmai
New member
Went through all this too
Yes, but did you get the check engine light to go off? And did it pass smog?
Part 2!
So, next I was going to deal with really the only other two areas under the car that would cause an evap leak. The charcoal cannister and its mess of hoses. The filler pipe and its connections.
Parts for the fuel fill tube and charcoal canister:
So let's do some totals.Code:Filler Cap 77300-53010 1 $21.45 <- Often the culprit. Grommet, Screw 90189-06212 4 $4.12 <- You will break most of them. Vapor Canister 77740-35482 1 $297.57 <- All hoses were cracked and suspect. Hose Sub-Assembly Fuel 77404-35010 1 $24.31 <- Flimsy. Buy a new one. *Filler Pipe 77201-35700 1 $183.06 <- Inspect and test vent tubes. *Fuel Pocket Seal 77391-14020 1 $2.01 <- Not needed. *Ring 77391-35010 1 $2.72 <- Not needed. *Filler Pipe Shield 77291-35060 1 $34.06 <- Not needed.
Total for parts I spent: $569.30
Total for parts I'd recommend: $347.45
Again, I went overboard with the parts.
Toyota does sell a gas cap seal/grommet so you can try that route instead of a whole new cap as it's a little cheaper and you can always just replace the cap later.
The Vapor Cannister and its myriad of hoses, etc, is an absolute mess:
Once I had my old one out, I feel good about plunking down $300 to replace it. The contents rattled around inside unlike the new one. Every last hose had cracks in them and they would ALL need replacing. Also, I'd have to spend time troubleshooting the valves, etc. to make sure they worked and they looked beat. By the time I got a new canister, replaced the hoses, what would I save? $150? It's just not worth my time.
The filler tube was a different story.
It is mostly metal except for one piece near where the gas cap goes. I can't see it going bad, but maybe there could be some leakage where the green tube is pushed into the grey plastic (see picture). I would remove this unit from the car, inspect it for issues. Then remove that green tube, grease it with vacuum grease and reinsert. This is not super hard to change out if it winds up being the issue. Older 4runners I don't think have this or at least they have a few less tubes.
The other parts I bought that I didn't need was the fuel pocket and its two metal rings that hold it in place. Oh well. I thought it may need to seal something. The fuel pocket with new gas cap looks awesome though!
Part 3 coming up!
Yes, but did you get the check engine light to go off? And did it pass smog?
Comebackcarol@gmai
New member
P0442 cleard but still engine light on
P0442 gone through everything, fixed the vent valve, new filler, cap etc. Cleared codes with OBD2 now reads no DTCs but check engine light still comes right back on. Anything come to mind? I need help
P0442 gone through everything, fixed the vent valve, new filler, cap etc. Cleared codes with OBD2 now reads no DTCs but check engine light still comes right back on. Anything come to mind? I need help
ITWrencher
New member
I had the same issues. First changed the roll over valve on the tank and gas cap. Worked for a couple months. Then I had to replace the shock/spring perches in the rear. While I had everything out I found that the metal tubing from the front of the car had rusted through. I cut them off flush and spliced in new rubber hoses to the charcoal canister. Just recently replaced charcoal canister and still have check engine and evap codes. So based on this thread I just found I’m going to order the evap sensor and gasket on the tank. If your truck is 2001-2002 and you are in the northeast you probably have major rust issues.
Late_Night
Junior Member
Sucks those codes keep popping up.
If you decide to replace the canister, Parts Geek have Aisan charcoal canisters for a good price, P/N W0133-2036358.
I installed one and it had a black sticker covering a Toyota P/N and badge on it.
Toyota 77203-35660 comes with a fuel tank pressure sensor and gasket as mentioned before, def worth it.
It looks like P0442 is called a "Small Leak" in the FSM.
My guess is some little hose / fitting / plastic nipple is the cause.
Tracking down a small leak can be a can of worms IMO, so if budget / time / reality allows for the major overhaul / replacement listed in the first post, it may be worth it, I am glad I did it.
Don't forget the valves / hoses in the engine bay too.
Good luck!
If you decide to replace the canister, Parts Geek have Aisan charcoal canisters for a good price, P/N W0133-2036358.
I installed one and it had a black sticker covering a Toyota P/N and badge on it.
Toyota 77203-35660 comes with a fuel tank pressure sensor and gasket as mentioned before, def worth it.
It looks like P0442 is called a "Small Leak" in the FSM.
My guess is some little hose / fitting / plastic nipple is the cause.
Tracking down a small leak can be a can of worms IMO, so if budget / time / reality allows for the major overhaul / replacement listed in the first post, it may be worth it, I am glad I did it.
Don't forget the valves / hoses in the engine bay too.
Good luck!
ITWrencher
New member
I am looking at replacing much of the tank stuff now. I have replaced the charcoal canister and cut off the rotted evap lines that run on the body beneath the floor. Only have the filler pipe assy. which is pretty rusted at this point and the tank stuff. I had previously replaced the roll over valve so I think I can get away with just replacing the suction assy. and a couple of the gaskets. After that I have to rebuild the front end as it is pretty loose feeling. I have already done the sway bar stuff and rack bushings as well as the struts. Now just need to do the upper and lower control arms, ball joints and tie rod ends then get her aligned. Trying to keep this thing going for at least another year or so. I just rebuilt the top end of the 3.4 over the winter and it is running really well at this point. Also had to cut out and weld in new spring/shock perches 2 years ago as they had evaporated due to our lovely winter time DOT road treatments.
Comebackcarol@gmai
New member
Pacific NW Bay Area CA
Have you gotten yours fixed, update me please. So much to learn.
Will Overfilling Fuel Damage Charcoal Canister 2002 SR5 3.4?
This month I bought an always (Florida) garaged, 2002 SR5 4WD 3.4L 4Runner in very good shape & CarFax documented 93,000 miles (my 1st Toyota).
I was advised by a friend who owned a 2002 SR5 2WD 3.4L that if you allow the gas pump to automatically shut off the fuel, you run the risk of fuel overflowing into your CHARCOAL CANISTER and causing big problems.
Could anyone please verify whether or not FUEL OVERFLOW into CHARCOAL CANISTER is a valid concern?
Thank you.
This month I bought an always (Florida) garaged, 2002 SR5 4WD 3.4L 4Runner in very good shape & CarFax documented 93,000 miles (my 1st Toyota).
I was advised by a friend who owned a 2002 SR5 2WD 3.4L that if you allow the gas pump to automatically shut off the fuel, you run the risk of fuel overflowing into your CHARCOAL CANISTER and causing big problems.
Could anyone please verify whether or not FUEL OVERFLOW into CHARCOAL CANISTER is a valid concern?
Thank you.
Ty for all this.
I ordered some of the parts in Amazon already.
The rest I was comparing the same parts to see which one is cheaper between 2 online Toyota parts:
Springhill vs Mcgeorge (Ourisman)
Springhill is way cheaper wow.
But I know mcgeorge shipped stuff to me before that Springhill wouldn't (ie: steering rack)
Just posting here for the others.
I'm not ordering them yet until I get confirmation from the shop that it is the fuel pump etc.
My car died today in the driveway, coincidence with my windshield being replaced lol. It starts and cranks fine then shuts off. Initial tests said battery and alternator is fine which makes sense since I have a newer agm battery and my oem Denso alternator was replaced a few years ago.
I ordered some of the parts in Amazon already.
The rest I was comparing the same parts to see which one is cheaper between 2 online Toyota parts:
Springhill vs Mcgeorge (Ourisman)
Springhill is way cheaper wow.
But I know mcgeorge shipped stuff to me before that Springhill wouldn't (ie: steering rack)
Just posting here for the others.
I'm not ordering them yet until I get confirmation from the shop that it is the fuel pump etc.
My car died today in the driveway, coincidence with my windshield being replaced lol. It starts and cranks fine then shuts off. Initial tests said battery and alternator is fine which makes sense since I have a newer agm battery and my oem Denso alternator was replaced a few years ago.
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