Cleaning Your Car
- Thread starter Thai
- Start date
elusive01
New member
Looking good after the snow and grime
I need to get a bottle of this stuff!
I use Meguiar's Gold Class and a Chemical Guys Chenille Microfiber mit.. and recently picked up a cheap foam blaster for my pressure washer but have yet to had stellar results from it.. anyone have any tips??
here's what i picked up https://www.amazon.com/DUSICHIN-SFL-001-Pressure-Release-Adjustable/dp/B00WPKHFA6/ref=sr_1_3
Last edited:
oesterj1195
New member
Window Washing
Best thing to use for washing windows is called an ecloth. You can find on amazon for about $20. the only way to get a streak free shine.:dancin:
Best thing to use for washing windows is called an ecloth. You can find on amazon for about $20. the only way to get a streak free shine.:dancin:
I would not use armor all on tires, at least not in the southwest it cracks your tires, its best to not put anything on them. Well that's my 2 cents worth
Kean
New member
The original Armor All formula for their dressing contained dimethal silicone fluids (DMS; solvent based). By around the late 80's they changed that product to a water based formula containing polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS). Many dressings/protectants these days use the same PDMS component.
The bad reputation AA received back in the 80's has stuck with them even today with some folks. The solvents (DMS - dimethal silicone fluids) in their product were blamed for accelerating the release of plasticizers from vinyl and rubber components causing those surfaces to "dry out".
In either case, the AA formulation in their basic tire product since the late 80's/early 90's is now water based like many other dressings/protectants today. It contains the same PDMS component that popular products like 303 Aerospace Protectant use. ....which is generally safe for vinyl, rubber and plastics.
I have heard individuals over the years and even manufactures still making claims about Armor All ruining these surfaces but I believe it is based on their old reputation rather than any current testing/analysis or fact.
5ontheFloor
New member
Does anyone else use rainwater to wash their trucks? This is my setup. Kinda crude but it works for me
Does anyone else use rainwater to wash their trucks? This is my setup. Kinda crude but it works for me
Speed Shine works wonders
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Spokanesteve
Member
Protectant for exterior rubber/plastic trim
Hello all:
I have wondered how people are able to apply protectant (I usually use 303) to the exterior rubber molding and trim around the windows and doors without leaving a mess on the car itself? The protectant usually ends up on the windows. Then, if I clean the windows it seems like I clear off more of the protectant than I like.......
Any advice on techniques or sequence here?
Thanks, Steve.
Hello all:
I have wondered how people are able to apply protectant (I usually use 303) to the exterior rubber molding and trim around the windows and doors without leaving a mess on the car itself? The protectant usually ends up on the windows. Then, if I clean the windows it seems like I clear off more of the protectant than I like.......
Any advice on techniques or sequence here?
Thanks, Steve.
Kean
New member
It may be a little crude but as long as it works. I wish we had enough rain in my area to make that sort of system feasible. Personally, I use deionized water via filtration through a resin:
5ontheFloor
New member
Yeah I live in Central Tx. We were in a drought for a number of years but it does not take much to fill the barrel. I use the second barrel since it catches overflow from the first barrel so most of the trash ends up in first one. Then for good measure I have a pump that pressurizes a hose and I have the water go through a particulate filter for good measure. It's good because rinsing doesn't leave water spots.
Kean
New member
....and very little cost to filter particulates.
Kean
New member
Hi Steve,
I'm a long time user of 303 AP so I can relate to what you're talking about. However, I wouldn't be as concerned about wiping the surfaces you apply that product to. Doing so should help lessen the amount of transfer you are experiencing. After all, 303 recommends doing this. With AP it isn't necessary to apply it like you might with some dressings although you can for aesthetic purposes in some applications if you wish.
Having said that, for door seals I use a product from 1Z (Einszett) called Gummi Pflege. ....Wurth also had a product which I believe was the same. Anyhow, it comes in a small bottle with a sponge applicator that you use to moisten the seals. You let it dry completely before closing the doors, rolling up the windows, etc. Excellent product. BMW/dealers use to sell this stuff (perhaps still do) to help protect rubber seals on their cars. .....good product IMO/IME:
CESAR.R.BURGOS
New member
Hey guys new to the forum must say the sponge is a bad idea but its cool . I start with the tires seperate item. Then work on body top to bottom them finally glass
James 49Texas
Junior Member
Do new vehicles benefit from waxing? Say, if I plan to wax (or polish/wax) twice a year, do I do my first wax job right after purchase or do I wait six months to wax for the first time?
ZebRuaj
New member
Most dealers have kids in the detailing shop. I like to call it "dealer installed scratches". Tell them not to clean or wash the new car for delivery, that you'll do it yourself.
By the time a car makes it to the line for sale, the "airing" out period required for new paint has passed. Wax or seal it when you take delivery and get it home.
Look up Ammo NYC on Youtube. Larry has some really good and informative videos.
I have a 21 yr old sedan black.. original owner. I use a micro fiber auto wash mitt. on the wheels I use a soft long bristle brush for auto finishes. I use liquid gld auto car wash soap [small amount] and then I put on the water filter so that the water spots will not be an issue..
after wiping the paint down with microfiber towels I then apply the zymol liquid synthetic wax. this lasts about 6 months on a BLACK vehicle.
this type procedure should be a good way to start on protecting the finish.
over time I have had to use 3M finishing polish with a low speed buffer and a black foam finishing pad. the 21 yr old paint looks like glass mirror.
sounds good right ! well I have turkeys in my area so they see themselves in the reflection and peck at my ride .. you can't win !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
James 49Texas
Junior Member
Excellent. Thank you both, catrains and ZebRuaj.
Kean
New member
I agree with Zeb. The wait period most folks hear about is typically related to those situations where the vehicle is painted in a body shop. Factory conditions are obviously different in that the paint is able to be cured during their process. The is no additional time needed for off-gassing when you take delivery.
The benefits of "waxing" (including any kind off last step product like a sealant, coating, etc.) can have several benefits. Most importantly (IMO/IME) it can help provide an added level of protection against contaminants including those that can potentially damage the underlying finish. Think of it as a kind of sacrificial layer. That's not to say the product will be impervious but it might make the difference in that bird bomb just being a nuisance vs. permanently etching your paint (providing the time needed to address it). If anything, a well maintained finish is much easier to clean. Contaminants will release easier, water will glide off, etc. Obviously, not all products are created equal and there are a lot of good ones out there. .....and a lot of bad. The trick is finding the products, tools and techniques that work for you.
Personally, I would suggest digging through some detailing forums like Autopia.org, Meguiars Online, Autogeek Forum, etc. to gather some ideas. I've been a member of Autopia for the last 15 years and found a wealth of information there during that time. It's where I usually visit when I'm looking for reviews on products or a new solution. .....good luck.
