Clear coat: definition and problems.

[tomh]

When I see clear coat referred to here in the boards, I am assuming it to mean the clear coat that comes on the paint from the factory. Is this correct?

I ask, because I was offered a clear coat sealer by the dealer which I turned down because I have rarely (if ever) heard anyone say anything good about dealer add ons. Not to mention that I know they would not have clay barred the vehicle before applying the coating and there by trapping all the contaminants from shipping into the sealer.

Does anyone else out there have an opinion on this?

On another note, it seems just about anything that sets on my paint for more than a day leaves a mark on the paint. I first noticed this when I washed off a blob of mud on the front grille and the area below it was duller than the surrounding paint. It doesn't looked etched like a waterspot, just less reflective and dull. I currently have 4 or 5 spots where mud, something from the road, or bugs have left these dull spots. On the flip side, bird droppings don't seem to be a problem. Is this normal? Will a good polishing (when I am removing swirl marks) probably remove it? Just curious, if anyone else has had this problem. In case it matters, my vehicle is Stratosphere Mica.

Thanks for this and all the other answers you have provided to this newbie.

Tom

 

[tkr128]

Yes, the clear coat referred to normally is the top layer of paint from the factory.

You were right to decline the paint sealer the dealer offered. It's nothing more than a polymer sealant that costs them next to nothing and charge you a couple hundred for. There are quite a few polymer sealants around that you can apply yourself, Zaino, Klasse are good examples.

As for your paint problem, I'm not sure. Has the car been waxed? If it has, how often does it get waxed? Wax should protect your finish from environmental factors and as a general rule, should be applied once a month for full protection. Does the paint feel smooth where the "stains" are? If the paint feels smooth, you should be able to polish it out.

I hope this was helpful!

 

[Kanab]

My dealer has a paint sealer/protecter/wax process that is applied by a machine that is the size of a garage (driver the clean vehicle into it and this thing goes nuts all over your vehicle). They treat every vehicle that they get BMW/Lexus/Toyota at delivery. I bought the treatment for 4 years they treat your vehicle every 6 months. The reason I bought it is that I have seen vehicles they have been treated every 6 months with this process that were 4 years old and they look like new. I did not get it on the last Toyota Tundra that I bought from them and I regreted it later. It cost me $300 for the 4 years at time of sale, figure it works out to $40-45 every 6 months and I never have to wax my 4runner. I think it's a good deal and so far the paint on my 4runner looks new and stays cleaner looking longer than with any wax treatment I've ever used with any vehicle I've ever owned. Also no etching of the paint from bird droppings or any other source (that is guaranteed). The Dealer calls the service coating I get "Auto-Mate"

 

[EDGE]

(driver the clean vehicle into it and this thing goes nuts all over your vehicle).

Im laughing so hard Im cryin, what you typed is normal but so disturbingly funny if you think about it:lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

 

[dcampen]

On another note, it seems just about anything that sets on my paint for more than a day leaves a mark on the paint.

I have the same tendency to avoid delaer packages. I suspect many, at best, not doing anything but making a lot of money for the dealer.

You should put some protectant on your paint - either a carnuba wax or a synthetic polymer like Zaino's or Meguiar's NXT Wax.

 

[tomh]

Thanks....

Thanks for the information, I went and got some ScratchX and it took the mark off.

It also made it apparent, that I need to go ahead and get some wax on it soon as the area I used the scratchX was definitely less cloudy and more reflective than the area next to it.

Thanks.

Tom

 

[Cliff s]

Clear coating came from the custom car
guys. They wanted a deeper looking shine
to win the best in show and this is how they got the look.
It started about 50 years ago. They sprayed clear lacquer
over the lacquer paint and then rubbed it out.

The metalic paints are quite fragile and
to make the look their best and be durable
a clear coat was added.

On the '04 T4R the paint is scratch resistant and chip resistant paint. This
is the best paint available now for auto use.

Use any abrasive sparingly because if you go through the clear coat the part
will have to be repainted, the color coat does not shine. Most spots can be removed
using a solvent, don't ever use lacquer thinner. You will ruin the paint.

The dealer coating are no more than the spray wax the car washes use.
Costs them a couple bucks they make a couple hundred, this along with
the fabric spray that you can buy for under $5, they charge at least $100.

The problems with the spray waxes is they build up on the windshield
and if you live in a wet climate the wipers will soon make this wax almost
impossible to see through when it rains. It takes
a lot of elbow grease and lacquer thinner to cut through this mess.
Be sure to protect your paint and the lacquer thinner will ruin it.

Here in AZ a favorite is to add window tint from Jose's bargain tints,
costs them $49, they claim a deluxe extra special tint for $249.

Most dealers make far more on the add-ons than on the vehicle itself.

The best way to keep your vehicle looking new is to keep it out of the sun
and rain. Put it in the garage everynight. Keep it clean, even a cheap exterior
car wash is better than nothing.

Cliff s