Clock Display 2015 Trail Edition
- Thread starter Erkelbot
- Start date
I'm next if Lawndart is going to pass. I got a display enroute already. 15 trail
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
LawnDart
Senior Member
Yes!
whiteblazer01
New member
While we're on the subject of clocks in the 2015+, my clock (and dash lights) get dim when I turn on the headlights. I drive with the headlights on during the day, so I click the dimmer switch up to put it in daytime mode. This makes the dash lights bright again, but has no effect on the clock. Does anyone know how to make the clock go bright with the dash when I click the dimmer dial up?
snuffleupagus
New member
Totally in for a harness here also, TRD Off-Road trim!
G X B
New member
Link to cheap sensor is about halfway on this page (you are not getting auto headlight dimming only auto instrument gauge & screen dimming, I think it regulates the clock too):
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/106577-automatic-headlights-night-possible-mod-8.html
Last edited:
Surgical Precision
New member
Ordered an accessory panel (Toyota Part #83290-35090). Just need this harness you speak of. Would love this conversion! Can't wait to see full write-up on LawnDarts page. Will be looking to do the same.
Jarheadoo7
New member
Lets get a list going. Who wants one??
!. Jarheadoo7
2. (insert name here)
3. (see above)
Surgical Precision
New member
Count me in. Put my name down.
Jarheadoo7
New member
Ill put your name down but everyone else put your own name down, I wont be able to keep up with adding everyone:heh:
1. Jarheadoo7
2. Surgical Precision
3. (insert name here)
dmrphy03
New member
Count me in, I’m excited about this one! TRD ORP here!
1. Jarheadoo7
2. Surgical Precision
3. Dmrphy03
4. (Insert name here)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
LawnDart
Senior Member
Tanner, thanks again for all the back and forth over the past few weeks figuring this out. It's been a fun project for sure, and I appreciate your help.
Obviously the biggest gate keeper on this mod will be how comfortable the end user is on tearing apart their dashboard. I've done it so many times I know which tools are needed, and can have a dash taken apart in about 15 minutes without damaging the plastic. That said, you HAVE to take things way down to the bone, especially the center console/radio area. And this can be daunting for someone not used to yanking on trim pieces.
That said the actual mod itself takes like 10 minutes, mostly just 2 wires pushed into the connector, a tap, and some electrical tape to manage the new subharness.
Most people's ideas of value on this mod will vary. I really like it, but it's not cheap for sure. I wish Toyota had just kept this display.
HoustonT4R
New member
Count me in!
Can we get an install video? Just want to see how intense this mos is?
Can we get an install video? Just want to see how intense this mos is?
LawnDart
Senior Member
Have you ever removed the head unit and instrument cluster?
If not it’ll depend on how hard you define that as being.
The actual install itself of the harness and swap of the display is the easiest part. It’s just getting to those components that is the most time consuming.
Not hard as I said, just depends how past experience going inside the dash.
Jarheadoo7
New member
1. Jarheadoo7
2. Surgical Precision
3. Dmrphy03
4. HoustonT4R
5. weeeeeeeeee
2. Surgical Precision
3. Dmrphy03
4. HoustonT4R
5. weeeeeeeeee
LawnDart
Senior Member
Sorry this post won't have photos, but it can be back-filled later on, and I hope someone uses it to build out a more detailed walkthrough:
Driver Side Disassembly:
1. Start by peeling back the weather stripping around the plastic panel that houses your turn signal and dash light level controls.
2. Carefully pull back on that piece, a trim tool may be required however usually pulling outboard towards the door will get the clips to release. Only tug as far as needed to get the clips to give, as you'll need to disconnect the two cables that run to those switches (if you have additional aftermarket switches, that's on you).
3. The Trim piece to the right of the steering column doesn't have to be removed completely, just pull it back till the top most clip comes out, and pull it back a bit.
4. You'll need to remove the plastic trim around the instrument cluster, it's held on by 4x clips, 2 on the top, 2 on the side. The softex piece that connects to the steering column is held on by 4 small plugs. You can start with the trim, or start with the softex, it doesn't matter. But working your hands under the trim and pulling outward will pop it free, just apply even tension so you don't yank it off one side and scratch the dash. Then work your fingers under the steering column hood and pop the softex free, it basically unbuttons. When you re-apply it you'll just snap it back in place.
5. You should have access to the Instrument cluster now. It's held in place by 4x 10mm bolts.
6. The cluster can now be pulled back, you'll want to rotate it 90 degrees and then carefully move it so that you can wiggle your hands behind it to access the cluster connector. The connector is on the top right of the cluster, and has a push to release style latch. Once disconnected you can carefully pull the cluster out.
7. You should have access to the electrical harness behind the instrument cluster.
Head Unit Removal:
1. I generally apply some painters tape to the bottom of the vertical trim pieces and center tunnel cover so when I am yanking on stuff I don't scratch or scuff the plastics.
2. Remove the vertical trim components for the Blower controls and temperature controls. These are held on by a few clips, the best way to remove them is to pull out and towards the door to which they are closest, so left side towards driver, right side towards passenger.
3. Remove HVAC controls by pulling straight out enough to get the clips to release. There's a harness that is held on by a plastic tab. Pinch one side, and then pinch the other to get it to disconnect from the HVAC section, then remove the connector.
4. The Head Unit is held in place by 4x 10mm bolts. Remove these and set aside.
5. The Head Unit is held in place additionally by some clips, carefully get your hand under and behind it, and pull outwards to get it to come loose.
6. Disconnect all the cables leading from the vehicle harness to the back of the radio/sat receiver. If this is your first time doing this just keep a note of where the cables go, however you can't mismatch connectors, so don't worry.
Clock Removal:
1. This is held in place by 2x Philips head screws, remove them.
2. The clock pulls down and out. Remove and disconnect the cable connecting it.
Harness Installation:
The harness consists of 2 connectors, and 1 tap.
1. Identify the G13 connector in the back right of the instrument cluster.
2. Remove connector on the left side. It will be identified by a white plastic bracket.
3. Using your finger nails or a small thin screwdriver (I found my nails worked best) you'll need to work that little plastic locking bar up, it only needs to pop up 1-2mm on each side.
4. The harness has 2x wires: 1 grey, 1 blue. Blue Wire inserts into position 12. Grey inserts into position 2. You should hear a small click when they're deep enough. But not always. You can verify they're in by flipping the male end of the connector over to see if they're visible.
5. Push the white locking bar back down to secure.
6. Run the tap end of the harness along the instrument cluster harness.
7. Identify the LIN Bus wire. Slipping the tap over the wire, place the plastic cap over the other side, press until silicone pushes out each side to make a seal. (Note: I had to push pretty hard to finally get the tap to engage, if no information presents on the screen, likely you haven't engaged the tap hard enough to ya know...tap).
8. Run the Meter Assembly end back behind the dash and over the air vents.
9. Use Zip Ties or electrical tape to clean up the sub-harness.
10. Connect the existing clock power connector harness into the female end of the new subharness.
11. Connect the white and grey connectors to the Meter Assembly.
Notes: I would suggest reinstalling just the instrument cluster and it's connector, and turning the vehicle on to verify that the Meter Assembly turns on.
You'll know it's working when you see temperature and compass. You may have to use the steering wheel DISP button to reset your AVG MPG, however usually just removing the instrument cluster does this reset by default.
I don't want to go into calibrating the compass, but that's pretty easy.
Reassembly is pretty easy, just reverse the whole process. Re: 10mm bolts, don't overtighten, usually light tension is good, snap everything back into place.
I would suggest putting all the cables back into the head unit, turning the vehicle back on, usually this will reset your XM/FM/AM station lists, so just make sure you're getting those audio sources to verify you didn't forget a cable.
I hope I didn't miss anything, and I'll gladly update this with photos once Tanner decides if he'll be selling the harness.
Driver Side Disassembly:
1. Start by peeling back the weather stripping around the plastic panel that houses your turn signal and dash light level controls.
2. Carefully pull back on that piece, a trim tool may be required however usually pulling outboard towards the door will get the clips to release. Only tug as far as needed to get the clips to give, as you'll need to disconnect the two cables that run to those switches (if you have additional aftermarket switches, that's on you).
3. The Trim piece to the right of the steering column doesn't have to be removed completely, just pull it back till the top most clip comes out, and pull it back a bit.
4. You'll need to remove the plastic trim around the instrument cluster, it's held on by 4x clips, 2 on the top, 2 on the side. The softex piece that connects to the steering column is held on by 4 small plugs. You can start with the trim, or start with the softex, it doesn't matter. But working your hands under the trim and pulling outward will pop it free, just apply even tension so you don't yank it off one side and scratch the dash. Then work your fingers under the steering column hood and pop the softex free, it basically unbuttons. When you re-apply it you'll just snap it back in place.
5. You should have access to the Instrument cluster now. It's held in place by 4x 10mm bolts.
6. The cluster can now be pulled back, you'll want to rotate it 90 degrees and then carefully move it so that you can wiggle your hands behind it to access the cluster connector. The connector is on the top right of the cluster, and has a push to release style latch. Once disconnected you can carefully pull the cluster out.
7. You should have access to the electrical harness behind the instrument cluster.
Head Unit Removal:
1. I generally apply some painters tape to the bottom of the vertical trim pieces and center tunnel cover so when I am yanking on stuff I don't scratch or scuff the plastics.
2. Remove the vertical trim components for the Blower controls and temperature controls. These are held on by a few clips, the best way to remove them is to pull out and towards the door to which they are closest, so left side towards driver, right side towards passenger.
3. Remove HVAC controls by pulling straight out enough to get the clips to release. There's a harness that is held on by a plastic tab. Pinch one side, and then pinch the other to get it to disconnect from the HVAC section, then remove the connector.
4. The Head Unit is held in place by 4x 10mm bolts. Remove these and set aside.
5. The Head Unit is held in place additionally by some clips, carefully get your hand under and behind it, and pull outwards to get it to come loose.
6. Disconnect all the cables leading from the vehicle harness to the back of the radio/sat receiver. If this is your first time doing this just keep a note of where the cables go, however you can't mismatch connectors, so don't worry.
Clock Removal:
1. This is held in place by 2x Philips head screws, remove them.
2. The clock pulls down and out. Remove and disconnect the cable connecting it.
Harness Installation:
The harness consists of 2 connectors, and 1 tap.
1. Identify the G13 connector in the back right of the instrument cluster.
2. Remove connector on the left side. It will be identified by a white plastic bracket.
3. Using your finger nails or a small thin screwdriver (I found my nails worked best) you'll need to work that little plastic locking bar up, it only needs to pop up 1-2mm on each side.
4. The harness has 2x wires: 1 grey, 1 blue. Blue Wire inserts into position 12. Grey inserts into position 2. You should hear a small click when they're deep enough. But not always. You can verify they're in by flipping the male end of the connector over to see if they're visible.
5. Push the white locking bar back down to secure.
6. Run the tap end of the harness along the instrument cluster harness.
7. Identify the LIN Bus wire. Slipping the tap over the wire, place the plastic cap over the other side, press until silicone pushes out each side to make a seal. (Note: I had to push pretty hard to finally get the tap to engage, if no information presents on the screen, likely you haven't engaged the tap hard enough to ya know...tap).
8. Run the Meter Assembly end back behind the dash and over the air vents.
9. Use Zip Ties or electrical tape to clean up the sub-harness.
10. Connect the existing clock power connector harness into the female end of the new subharness.
11. Connect the white and grey connectors to the Meter Assembly.
Notes: I would suggest reinstalling just the instrument cluster and it's connector, and turning the vehicle on to verify that the Meter Assembly turns on.
You'll know it's working when you see temperature and compass. You may have to use the steering wheel DISP button to reset your AVG MPG, however usually just removing the instrument cluster does this reset by default.
I don't want to go into calibrating the compass, but that's pretty easy.
Reassembly is pretty easy, just reverse the whole process. Re: 10mm bolts, don't overtighten, usually light tension is good, snap everything back into place.
I would suggest putting all the cables back into the head unit, turning the vehicle back on, usually this will reset your XM/FM/AM station lists, so just make sure you're getting those audio sources to verify you didn't forget a cable.
I hope I didn't miss anything, and I'll gladly update this with photos once Tanner decides if he'll be selling the harness.
