Clutch engaging too soon
- Thread starter Elomar88
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Elomar88
New member
TheDurk
Elite Member
St Runner
Member
TheDurk is TheMan Fig 1 shows the travel from the top of the pedal to where the pedal hits the floor when you push on it, that is what you want to measure. The adjustment bolt is the one with the clutch cancel switch on it. The only thing different I did on mine was pull out the original spring with shot bushings and used the extra brake spring instead. no more squeak
I recently replaced the clutch on a 2000 V6. I also had the flywheel resurfaced. New master and slave cylinders, too. New bushing where the pushrod's fork mates with the clutch pedal, too.
It all went together just fine and I got the clutch pedal adjusted to release/engage at a height I could live with and that was within FSM specs.
However, the adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod required it to extend to its limits. I wondered why. I'm quite sure I removed all the air from the clutch's hydraulics.
It seems to me, and I should stress that this only occurred to me after it all went together, that there's a little tweak one could do to make it so the master cylinder wasn't at the end of its adjustment.
If the flywheel is resurfaced the clutch disk and pressure plate naturally move forward. Thus, the slave pushrod has to extend just a bit farther, too.
What would happen if one were to place a washer under the clutch fork's pivot bolt? (Indicated by an arrow in the picture.) It seems to me that if nothing else, such a washer - equal in thickness to the amount removed from the flywheel - would mean that the slave cylinder rod wouldn't have to extend quite so far. Thus there'd be slightly more adjustment left on the pushrod under the dash.
It's all just a thought. I didn't perform this modification. I invite correction to my thought.
It all went together just fine and I got the clutch pedal adjusted to release/engage at a height I could live with and that was within FSM specs.
However, the adjustment of the master cylinder pushrod required it to extend to its limits. I wondered why. I'm quite sure I removed all the air from the clutch's hydraulics.
It seems to me, and I should stress that this only occurred to me after it all went together, that there's a little tweak one could do to make it so the master cylinder wasn't at the end of its adjustment.
If the flywheel is resurfaced the clutch disk and pressure plate naturally move forward. Thus, the slave pushrod has to extend just a bit farther, too.
What would happen if one were to place a washer under the clutch fork's pivot bolt? (Indicated by an arrow in the picture.) It seems to me that if nothing else, such a washer - equal in thickness to the amount removed from the flywheel - would mean that the slave cylinder rod wouldn't have to extend quite so far. Thus there'd be slightly more adjustment left on the pushrod under the dash.
It's all just a thought. I didn't perform this modification. I invite correction to my thought.
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Elomar88
New member
Figured it out had a blonde moment when doing the swap and left the top bolt from the clutch pedal assembly loose today I found it under my floor mat oops.... Explains why it was getting worse probably bending the crap out of the firewall but anyways bolt back in clutch engaging where it should thanks for all the help
Elomar88
New member
Thanks man yeah it made it feel like a whole new truck loving it so far I'd say one little clutch pedal bolt isn't too bad considering all the crap I took out and put in have looked all over trying to find the ohms of the shift solinoids so that maybe I can get the cell to go away on the dashake it look like it was factory 5 speed that and the a/T oil temp
St Runner
Member
The easiest way to get rid of the cel is to put an ecu from a 97 manual in. I had access to a donor truck so I replaced the engine wiring harness too which gave me the proper plugs to the transmission and ecu. The plugs on the auto and manual 97 ecu are different and will not plug and play even though the wiring is in pretty much the same place. Just the STA and check engine/obd wire are on different plugs. The other two plugs on the engine wiring harness which run to the trans are plug and play. I took the park /neutral switch wire and ran it over and used it for the clutch start and clutch cancel switch. It looks and runs like factory because it essentially is. You can also find a used 97 ecu,go buy the plugs from toyota and repin the wiring harness. It took me 5 full days to do my swap,looked a lot easier in the write-ups!
