Clutch Replacement
- Thread starter mtbtim
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mtbtim
Elite Member
How did the job go for you? Did you have issues getting the trans separated from the engine? We have surmised that the trans input shaft connection to the pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft is the culprit making it hard to separate the trans from the motor.
Kanoe
New member
No, I didn't have any trouble there. They just came apart by hand.
I had a hard time getting the alignment right to get it back together though. Finicky process.
Working alone in a nice garage I was about 18 hours from prep to cleanup. I think my least favourite part was removing and installing the driveshafts.
stecow
New member
Aaaaaaahhhh yes, I'm pretty sure this will be a project of mine in the future. Thanks for getting this put together! I've referenced many a video of yours when doing repairs on my Runner, you guys do a high quality walkthrough.
I think my clutch is starting to go bad. When I'm in 4th or 5th on the highway and let off on the gas I can smell what I think is the clutch, its similar to what you smell after striking a match. It also sometimes happens when I am driving up a hill too, but the rpms on the tach stay consistent with the speed of the Runner instead of increasing abnormally if I put the gas pedal to the floor. What does that seem like? Bad clutch probably? The valve covers were leaking for a few months when I got it and so maybe a bit of oil got on to the clutch assembly and messed with the functionality.
Also, I drove up to Alaska and back for a seasonal job, all this just started after I got back
I think my clutch is starting to go bad. When I'm in 4th or 5th on the highway and let off on the gas I can smell what I think is the clutch, its similar to what you smell after striking a match. It also sometimes happens when I am driving up a hill too, but the rpms on the tach stay consistent with the speed of the Runner instead of increasing abnormally if I put the gas pedal to the floor. What does that seem like? Bad clutch probably? The valve covers were leaking for a few months when I got it and so maybe a bit of oil got on to the clutch assembly and messed with the functionality.
Also, I drove up to Alaska and back for a seasonal job, all this just started after I got back
mtbtim
Elite Member
That's interesting yours came apart easy. Dan's trans fought us big time separating from the engine and it wasn't from lack of trying. We pushed and pulled on that mofo for a long time. Getting the driveshafts off was one of the more easy things we did.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Well, it doesn't sound like your clutch is slipping from what you described. How many miles are on the rig?
A comment and a suggestion:
On a clutch job on a 2000 with the 4 cylinder engine, I found the transmission wouldn't separate from the block due to corrosion in the alignment pins, which stuck them into the bell housing's aluminum. I had to use pry bars on both sides of the engine to work the transmission loose. On the 3RZ engine, this necessitated removing the intake plenum to get sufficient access on the driver's side.
I have an idea for reinstallation that I haven't tried yet. The bolts holding the bell housing to the block are M12 with 1.25 pitch. That happens to be the axle size on the front of most small Japanese motorcycles. I've obtained two such axles to use as guide pins. I'll lift the transmission into approximate position, maybe 4" back, insert the axles through the bell housing and into the block and adjust the transmission so the axles thread easily and the transmission's input shaft can slide straight into the clutch disk and the pilot bearing. Once the bell housing is flush against the block, I'll install two of the upper M12 bolts and remove the axles.
It's so crazy it just might work. I (will) love it when a plan comes together.
On a clutch job on a 2000 with the 4 cylinder engine, I found the transmission wouldn't separate from the block due to corrosion in the alignment pins, which stuck them into the bell housing's aluminum. I had to use pry bars on both sides of the engine to work the transmission loose. On the 3RZ engine, this necessitated removing the intake plenum to get sufficient access on the driver's side.
I have an idea for reinstallation that I haven't tried yet. The bolts holding the bell housing to the block are M12 with 1.25 pitch. That happens to be the axle size on the front of most small Japanese motorcycles. I've obtained two such axles to use as guide pins. I'll lift the transmission into approximate position, maybe 4" back, insert the axles through the bell housing and into the block and adjust the transmission so the axles thread easily and the transmission's input shaft can slide straight into the clutch disk and the pilot bearing. Once the bell housing is flush against the block, I'll install two of the upper M12 bolts and remove the axles.
It's so crazy it just might work. I (will) love it when a plan comes together.
stecow
New member
It's got 203,000 miles on it. The clutch works just fine which is kinda bugging me trying to figure out where this smell comes from. I think I'm just gonna drive it till I know for sure the clutch is slipping and then replace it.
A burning match smell sort of sounds like a catalytic convertor issue?
But a slipping clutch will show up as the revs increasing without a matching increase in vehicle speed. If you persist much you'll get some smoke and a hot brake smell, which doesn't really smell like matches (they tend to smell like sulphur).
stecow
New member
Ah...good to know! I'll look into that some more, thanks!
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