Cobiker's 96 LTD build

Light output

Finally got some night pics.

Low beam
IMG_0327.jpg~original


High
IMG_0329.jpg~original


I also recently cleaned the airbox, MAF, air filter, and throttle body. Looked like it was never cleaned before.

Not very visible but its dirty gunk sitting on the bottom part of the TB.

IMG_0347.jpg~original


After cleaning, I promptly ran into idling problems. It idled at around 1700, and wouldnt settle back down no matter what I did (reset the ECS several times by unhooking the battery, checked the IAC, fiddled around with throttle cable and the IAC, broke a screw adjuster :ybrick:).

I gave up and resigned myself to take the truck to the stealership for a quote. The dealer service department was backed up for a week. Good thing, because right as I was pulling out of the dealer garage to go to a different one, the idling was back to the normal 600-750. :girl: No problems since.

I guess going to the dealership fixed it. Hehe.
 
Finally got some night pics.

Low beam
IMG_0327.jpg~original


High
IMG_0329.jpg~original


I also recently cleaned the airbox, MAF, air filter, and throttle body. Looked like it was never cleaned before.

Not very visible but its dirty gunk sitting on the bottom part of the TB.

IMG_0347.jpg~original


After cleaning, I promptly ran into idling problems. It idled at around 1700, and wouldnt settle back down no matter what I did (reset the ECS several times by unhooking the battery, checked the IAC, fiddled around with throttle cable and the IAC, broke a screw adjuster :ybrick:).

I gave up and resigned myself to take the truck to the stealership for a quote. The dealer service department was backed up for a week. Good thing, because right as I was pulling out of the dealer garage to go to a different one, the idling was back to the normal 600-750. :girl: No problems since.

I guess going to the dealership fixed it. Hehe.

I ended up cleaning my TB a couple of weeks ago. This seemed to have loosened up some gunk that got down into my IAC. This ended up stranding me for an evening. Would not idle.

Went back the next day. Took off the solenioid (green electrical part on IAC and wiggled the magnetic spindle around and put it all back together. Pulled the fuse and let it reset. She started right back up and has been good since. I did endup removing the IAC and giving the inards a thorough cleaning as a precautionary measure.

Lesson: try to keep the gunk out of you IAC intake when cleaning the TB.:cool:
 
I ended up cleaning my TB a couple of weeks ago. This seemed to have loosened up some gunk that got down into my IAC. This ended up stranding me for an evening. Would not idle.

Went back the next day. Took off the solenioid (green electrical part on IAC and wiggled the magnetic spindle around and put it all back together. Pulled the fuse and let it reset. She started right back up and has been good since. I did endup removing the IAC and giving the inards a thorough cleaning as a precautionary measure.

Lesson: try to keep the gunk out of you IAC intake when cleaning the TB.:cool:

Yup. I didnt take off the IAC when I cleaned the TB and I realized afterwards that the gunk from the TB couldve gone into the IAC. Learned that lesson.

What did you use to clean the IAC?
 
Used carb cleaner. Dont remember the brand. I dissassembled as noted is some excellent posts on this forum, removing the TB, and then removing the IAC. I used a toothbrush, Qtips and rags to get as much gunk out as possible. And sprayed some more. I removed the off-green solenoid and spun the valve back an forth to try to get all the gunk out. I reassembled with new IAC and TB gaskets, also applying sensor safe sealant to the solenoid joint.

Drove it down to Big Sur last weekend and actually got to him some pretty fun dirt roads. No issues at all.

Now if only my Saab were this easy.:ybrick:
 
Locker time?

And the mods go on....

I'm looking to put in a rear locker and I need some opinions on the Eaton G80 automatic locker. Its available, pretty reasonably priced and best of all, my wife will be completely clueless that I actually put in another upgrade to my/her/our truck. :P

Anybody have it?
 
And just a pic from a recent biking trip up a nearby set of trails. Nothing much...just a chance to exercise the 4Low and get some oil circulating. Its actually quite doable on stock height and 2WD when its not raining.

photo-6.jpg~original
 
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i am having the same problem with 97 4 runner i have replaced the comp..& the shift lock , also the solenoid everthing is new underneath the shifter please explain to me what procedure you done to fix your problem????? i took the handle off and seen the plastic peace thats where i am stuck .. what do you do to adjust the plastic peace under the handle
 
:hatsoff:::
i am having the same problem with 97 4 runner i have replaced the comp..& the shift lock , also the solenoid everthing is new underneath the shifter please explain to me what procedure you done to fix your problem????? i took the handle off and seen the plastic peace thats where i am stuck .. what do you do to adjust the plastic peace under the handle
 
i am having the same problem with 97 4 runner i have replaced the comp..& the shift lock , also the solenoid everthing is new underneath the shifter please explain to me what procedure you done to fix your problem????? i took the handle off and seen the plastic peace thats where i am stuck .. what do you do to adjust the plastic peace under the handle


Hi. I didn't really do much. I opened up the shifter and center console area to basically look at how it all worked. Just snugged up the bolts, which were a bit loose causing some sideways play. The looseness/play caused the little stud on the shifter to miss the plastic hook switch. I checked my electricals and it didnt seem like a solenoid or switch problem.

The key still gets stuck sometimes but I just cycle to D then push the shifter slightly to the pass side as I shift it back to P. Key out instantly. The push to the right/pass side as you shift to P is crucial. I was actually prepared to bypass the switch if it was defective or broke. lucky so far. HTH.
 
This is happening to the 97, i will have to check this out now.

hey i checked the gear shift and guess what that was the problem after some hammering and bending was able to re-align the pin with the shift lock ...un real how it gets out of line thanks for the info by the way if you have an easier fix let me no for future reference
 
Ok, I have a 99 SR5 and have been having the key stuck problem for some time now. It has gotten so bad I have to do something about it but every shop I talk with says I need to replace the ignition. All along I never thought it was the ignition but something to do with the shifter or the shifter lock.
Now, to fix this can someone please tell me how to get the shifter open and the steps to go over to ensure I get it correct. Do I need to replace any parts when I have the shifter open?
Thanks,
Dave
 
Dave, your question (since it is an open ?) doesn't really belong in someones build thread.

I suggest you send a PM or post a new thread. Also keep in mind that there are shop and then there are (rare) Toyota truck shops.

If you go to someone who is an expert in 4Runners/Tacomas, someone who builds them as a mechanic then you will get a knowledgeable answer. I had the same problem as Cobiker and you but it went away. The dealer actually quoted me like $400 for a new key ignition mechanism. I declined.
 
So....long time no post..

Anyway, for several weeks now the ABS was acting up. Stopping in traffic would induce a shuddering, grinding noise from the front, accompanied by the brake pedal sinking, followed by what I thought was the brake booster recharging (servo motor sound). On occasion the ABS light would come on. As long as the ABS light was on, the truck braked fine - no noise, shuddering, etc.

I tried to track down the problem: The brake fluid reservoir was filled and not losing fluid, the truck braked ok when at speed (thankfully), and pads seemed to be ok. Only thing I could reduce it to was a bad sensor, or a bad ABS computer, or some other thing thats obviously beyond my powers to fix.

Given my bad experience with ABS anyway, and after poring over the ABS related threads, I today pulled the ABS fuse from the truck. Sure I have a little yellow light on the dash, but at least I can brake without everyone giving me concerned stares at stoplights.

Next up... change rear axle. There is a wobble on the right rear wheel that my Toyota expert buddy said was either a bad bearing, or a bent axle. He said that he has lots of axles in his shop.... some of which are disc brake versions for the Toyota Prado 90, that he said might fit. Keeping my fingers crossed. :P
 
Thank man I was told I needed a new shift lock control computer and was looking for one when I came across your post. After reading this I went out side fixed it and saved myself about $150. :) :) :)
 
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Update

On the ABS - I now narrowed down the problem to the front driver side ABS sensor (Yes I replugged the ABS fuse). That wheel was always the one acting up. Pads are new and when the wheel was off, I took the opportunity to pull off the ABS sensor, cleaned it with a rag, then put it back on. The ABS problem stopped.... for a few months. It does come back occasionally, and when it does, I just pull the sensor and clean it again. Sometimes, I smear a little dielectric grease. Cant say its a permanent fix by any stretch, but cleaning the sensor once in a while seems to make the problem go away for a while.
 

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