$600 Upgrade Budget - What to do?

[alphyn]

Hey Everyone:

I've taken a leave of absence from life the last few years and have been out of contact with all the latest and greatest here. All of my free time has been spent realizing I have no free time. Like, none. I'm in a brief period of funemployment and have fallen back in love with wrenching on my 4Runner. After I complete big work projects, I like to 'gift' myself something to reconnect with who I really am so I can forget about the work trauma I just endured.

Anyway, I will be gifting myself general maintenance and engine upgrades on my 4Runner. I know specific threads on this forum cover issue remediation and specific upgrades. Like, I'll come up with 100 different threads covering alternator replacements or aux lighting or roof racks, etc.

I'm currently in the middle of following mtbtim's (can't remember how to get mentions to work!) timing belt replacement tutorial. Much thanks to Timmy!!! I feel like it would be a good opportunity to refresh any maintenance items not part of the timing belt service while I have my truck apart, or target upgrades which would improve performance, reliability, or vehicle longevity.

Here's the specs on my truck and build:

• 1999 4Runner, SR5 - Highlander
• 170k miles
• Manual Trans w/rebuilt Marlin Transmission and crawler gear installed at 125k, new clutch obviously.
• 1st gen S/C w/URD 7th injector kit and upgraded fuel pump
• AirRaid Intake
• Tundra brake upgrade
• Bilstein 6112s (Front), 5100 (Rear) / OME 2906, approx 3" lift over stock but don't quote me on it.
• New Nitto Trail Grapplers
• Factory Roof Rack Delete
• New head unit (forgot which double din touchscreen unit I installed)
• Weathertech mats
• Custom cabinets / sleeping platform
• Spray liner on faded fender flares

Recently replaced maintenance items:

• New O2 sensors
• New fuel filters
• Relatively new radiator
• New MAF
• Recharged K/N Air Filter
• Timing belt kit (will be installed in next few days)
• New Battery
• New Wipers

Known deferred general maintenance items which might need to be addressed sooner than later:

• Rear diff gear oil not changed since 130k miles
• Unknown servicing of transfer case
• Cracked windshield
• Alignment
• Tundra brake rotors need to be resurfaced/replaced

Added items from all of you fine folks:

• Control Arm Bushings
• Lower Ball Joint Replacement
• Panhard Correction Kit (PCK)
• All fluids, Fine - even manual trans oil
• Spark Plug Gap Check

Known issues which can be deferred:

• Trailer wiring harness is dead
• Parasitic battery drain, source unknown - suspecting it might be the trailer wiring harness somewhere
• Front bumper cover weld cracked, not structural but bumper rattles
• Front bumper cover valance missing
• Antennae broken off
• Paint - clear coat chipping/fading
• Gas door panel missing/broken (someone pried it open a few years back and tried to steal gas)
• Driver's seat showing wear and leather starting to show more serious signs of cracking.
• Sunroof track is loose but does not impact operation.
• Clutch return spring is squeaky (plastic bushing failure)
• Window tints failing

Vehicle is in registered in CA so needs to be CARB compliant.

Use Case for Vehicle
Primary daily driver with moderate off-road excursions on occasion or when time allows. Winter vehicle to/from ski resorts in Tahoe approximately 10-15 times per ski season. Interim work vehicle to drive out to client sites (future career - home inspector / contractor). 15-20k miles per year expected for next few years until business gets off the ground, then will revert to recreational vehicle.

I'd like to extend service life of vehicle 5-10 years more and will most likely be replaced with new Ford Bronco (sorry, I need a manual trans SUV). Blame Toyota, not me

Upgrades out of scope:

• Suspension, unless I should be paranoid about LBJ failures
• Exterior cosmetic/lighting/roof racks (I have a future vision which will cost more money than I have to spend now)
• Plate bumpers and winches. I'd consider adding hard points to assist with recovery but don't want to add weight.
• Audio upgrades

Upgrades currently under consideration:

• Alternator
• Larger fuel injectors
• ECU mapping / tuning
• Fuel line replacement to braided
• Deckplate Mod
• Rear view camera install
• Interior upgrades to make it feel 'new' inside (new seats, headliner, other wear items)

Budget: $600

Budget only applies to optional maintenance items, not things that need to be done right away. For example, rotor resurfacing or windshield replacement won't cut into my fun money.

What would you do? Any suggestions what I should focus on in the next 3-weeks?

 

[Skulking]

Without a winch or a bunch of off road lights, unless you have a problem with your alternator I'd take that off the list.

As someone else who needs to deal with CARB, I don't think the deck plate mod will actually pass the visual which is one of the reasons I took it off of my list of things I was looking at doing. If you want to do it, you could find another airbox off of a junked 4Runner (Make sure it's a compatible year), and easily swap the airbox just for smog.

You say that suspension is out of scope unless you should be paranoid about LBJ failures. I can't find anything you noted about having replaced the LBJ's. If they are original, I'd definitely be looking at replacing them especially as the lift will tend to make them wear faster.

 

[cl4Rk]

Bilstein 5100 / OME 906 would give you about 2" over stock height. But even with a mild lift, I'd consider adding [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] 's Panhard Correction Kit thus fixing your panhard bar angle, redoing your LBJs, and then getting an alignment.

As far as the deck plate mod, I'll echo what [MENTION=291664]Skulking[/MENTION] says above.

Good luck!

 

[Skulking]

Bilstein 5100 / OME 906 would give you about 2" over stock height. But even with a mild lift, I'd consider adding [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] 's Panhard Correction Kit thus fixing your panhard bar angle, redoing your LBJs, and then getting an alignment.

As far as the deck plate mod, I'll echo what [MENTION=291664]Skulking[/MENTION] says above.

Good luck!

He says he already has a 3" lift, but the PCK is actually a great suggestion for something to do that wasn't already listed.

 

[cl4Rk]

He says he already has a 3" lift, but the PCK is actually a great suggestion for something to do that wasn't already listed.

He said he has a 3" lift, but listed that he has Bilstein 5100s and OME 906s in the rear. Those components should result in about 2" over stock height. (It's what I'm running too...) Not trying to split hairs though. And I do remember reading there are a couple different versions of the 5100s, so maybe that accounts for the difference?

Thanks for the +1 on the PCK!

 

[Bad Luck]

I'd change front diff, rear diff, transfer case, transmission fluid, coolant flush, and fix my brakes. I prefer a well running vehicle to a good looking one. Just my $0.02

 

[alphyn]

You say that suspension is out of scope unless you should be paranoid about LBJ failures. I can't find anything you noted about having replaced the LBJ's. If they are original, I'd definitely be looking at replacing them especially as the lift will tend to make them wear faster.

Just so I get the link right, you're referring to this kit?

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-suspension-wheels-tires/230779-fs-eimkeith-pck-panhard-correction-kits-3rd-gen-$93-50-4th-5th-gen-$98-20-a.html#post2565528

I'm totally open to replacing the LBJ's. I guess I just recall reading through threads in the past and there were varying levels of concern regarding them. Folks who seemed to have plate bumpers seemed to have them wear faster. Obviously, I've seen the grisly aftermath of failures.

I'm open to doing whatever, actually. Just as long as there's sufficient rationale and cause behind it. Sometimes it's hard to assess what is overblown and what is real.

That being said, I'll start looking in to LBJ's and spec'ing out what's out there. I don't mind redoing them. Getting the 6112/5160's on were a huge PITA. I went to war with those things. Diameter of tube was so thick it interfered with getting spring compressors around the springs.

 

[cl4Rk]

Just so I get the link right, you're referring to this kit?

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/for-sale-suspension-wheels-tires/230779-fs-eimkeith-pck-panhard-correction-kits-3rd-gen-$93-50-4th-5th-gen-$98-20-a.html#post2565528

Yep, that's it.

I got mine from Jason at OPT OFF ROAD: Panhard Correction Kit (PCK)

The kit does require welding.

If you're at 2" above stock height, you can get away with only welding on the axle bracket extension. If you are in fact at 3" or more above stock height, then you'd want to weld up both the axle and the frame sides. [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] , correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[phattyduck]

Measure center of the hubs to the fender lip, on all 4 corners and list them - that will let us know how much lift you have. 20" is "stock" height for comparison purposes (even though every year was a different height from the factory).

Based on your use case, get everything 100% reliable before any mods. 15-20k miles a year will require regular maintenance/work. Also, clients will want to see a clean unmodified vehicle (things sales end-to-end here for your business). At least you don't have to worry about pink milkshake. :caked:

-Charlie

 

[Endlessblockades]

For a somewhat frivolous, pure sex-appeal (OK functional, too) upgrade, I think a set of BXBuilt trick AF retrofit headlights is about $600. Not on my own radar, but they are as popular as a big swollen lips are for Beverly Hills housewives.

Just something that I didn't see on your lists at first glance.....

Toyota & Lexus Headlights | BXBuilt


Edit - Lead Time not good - ouch. Like I said, "Popular"!

 

[alphyn]

He said he has a 3" lift, but listed that he has Bilstein 5100s and OME 906s in the rear. Those components should result in about 2" over stock height. (It's what I'm running too...) Not trying to split hairs though. And I do remember reading there are a couple different versions of the 5100s, so maybe that accounts for the difference?

Thanks for the +1 on the PCK!

Yup, Bilstein makes OEM versions per manufacturer specifications which have the same valve pistons. Not all 5100's are the same. I think I took my measurements after install and expected settling of half an inch or so. Not an exact science on my part.

The 6100/5160s in front measured about 2" above where my Highlander springs were at. And stock Highlander springs were supposedly 1" above stock SR5's. And of course they settled a bit after measurement.

 

[alphyn]

I'd change front diff, rear diff, transfer case, transmission fluid, coolant flush, and fix my brakes. I prefer a well running vehicle to a good looking one. Just my $0.02

I don't have transmission fluid. I'm special.

Looking in to changing out the front diff, though. Wasn't on my list and I'll toss it on there. Thank you!

 

[Bad Luck]

I don't have transmission fluid. I'm special.

Looking in to changing out the front diff, though. Wasn't on my list and I'll toss it on there. Thank you!

Do you have a transmission? Yes, then you have transmission fluid. Your transmission fluid is gear oil. Gear oil is a fluid. Thanks for joining my Ted Talk.

 

[alphyn]

Measure center of the hubs to the fender lip, on all 4 corners and list them - that will let us know how much lift you have. 20" is "stock" height for comparison purposes (even though every year was a different height from the factory).

Based on your use case, get everything 100% reliable before any mods. 15-20k miles a year will require regular maintenance/work. Also, clients will want to see a clean unmodified vehicle (things sales end-to-end here for your business). At least you don't have to worry about pink milkshake. :caked:

-Charlie

Vehicle isn't on perfectly flat ground and has its innards ripped out at the moment. I'm sitting about 22.5" within a quarter inch on all 4-corners. up to the actual fender, not fender flares.

Thanks for the reference point on where to calculate stock ride height from. Always a challenge figuring out 'stock' year to year. And in the end a half an inch doesn't mean much.

I'm planning on picking up a Sprinter van in the next 6-12 months as soon as I refine the business model. Too many variables at the moment to figure out exact vehicle requirements. Until recently I was driving around in a 2018 Ram 3500 (rare manual trans) and definitely looked the part. When one business collapses, you have to pick yourself off the ground and start over. My 4Runner is always there for me when I need it. Like a warm blanket of happiness.

 

[thennen]

Briefly, if you regularly use the 4Runner as a necessary vehicle for the next 5-10 years, I would focus on all those items you think a daily driver needs in order to last a long time.

 

[Brian.]

I'm planning on picking up a Sprinter van in the next 6-12 months as soon as I refine the business model.

OT, but because I've BTDT, unless you're buying brand new and don't mind weeks/months of possible downtime, skip the Sprinter. They are a nightmare from every angle ~ like I said, Been There, and Done That. I'm in the Transit now, but that's because I'm unwilling to do a Fiat (Dodge), when Dodge has a history of changing business agreements and abandoning vehicles (first gen Sprinters).

My Transit is now 3 years in without a single unplanned trip to the dealer/shop. Maintenance only.


For the actual topic, any fluid not replaced in the past 2 years is due. Brakes, steering, different gear oils, coolant, whatever. If it's fluid and hasn't been done in the past 24 months, do it. Next would be looking at the brake lines (flexible), cheap as hell and beats the alternative of a brake failure. Beyond that, replacing the control arm bushings made the single biggest difference in the quality of ride on my '99. WAY more difference than the Bils 6112/5160 combo or any change in tire on any vehicle.

 

[cl4Rk]

replacing the control arm bushings made the single biggest difference in the quality of ride

Ooh yes, +1 for new bushings.

 

[gamefreakgc]

As someone else who needs to deal with CARB, I don't think the deck plate mod will actually pass the visual which is one of the reasons I took it off of my list of things I was looking at doing. If you want to do it, you could find another airbox off of a junked 4Runner (Make sure it's a compatible year), and easily swap the airbox just for smog.

This is correct. My 4Runner did not pass the smog visual inspection even with the deckplate inserted as it was considered an "air cleaner box modification" and is not allowed. I have an intact factory box I picked up at a junkyard which I use to swap in to pass smog. It is worth the money though to do it. I've picked up +9HP from the deckplate, +9HP from an oiled filter, and +43HP from ditching it all and building a custom 3" intake. +61 HP from freeing up intake restrictions alone.

Alphyn does your 4Runner need a tune? I know enough about tuning to be dangerous and can help dial it in. Can't remember if you have a wideband sensor or not, if not that's what I recommend starting with. The 7th injector gives enough fuel for a pulley as small as the 2.1" pulley so I would take larger injectors off your list, unless you plan on removing the 7th injector entirely?

While your 4Runner is under the knife, take a spark plug out and measure the spark gap. Those gaps are sneaky and really open up over time on a supercharged engine. Anything over 0.035" and you'll start to lose power.

 

[alphyn]

For a somewhat frivolous, pure sex-appeal (OK functional, too) upgrade, I think a set of BXBuilt trick AF retrofit headlights is about $600. Not on my own radar, but they are as popular as a big swollen lips are for Beverly Hills housewives.

Just something that I didn't see on your lists at first glance.....

Toyota & Lexus Headlights | BXBuilt


Edit - Lead Time not good - ouch. Like I said, "Popular"!

Ha! Great analogy. I don't think they're for me. I mean, no judgement but I kind of like the classic 3rd gen face. The anime eyes of those headlights don't pump blood to my nether regions.

 

[alphyn]

Do you have a transmission? Yes, then you have transmission fluid. Your transmission fluid is gear oil. Gear oil is a fluid. Thanks for joining my Ted Talk.

Haha, well then technically glass is a supercooled liquid and I'd confuse a bunch of people if I said I needed to change my glass fluid. Or my engine fluid.

Had a rebuilt trans put in not too many miles ago. Wouldn't be the worst thing to change out gear oil, but it's not like the slushbox milkshake hand grenade ready to blow at any time.