Coilover suspension that holds up well to road salt and winter

jdm-v35

Member
I am looking at possibly upgrading from 5100's and OME springs as my rig has more weight now and I am taking it to harsher areas. Since the roads get salted/brined in winter here in CO, I am trying to find options that will hold up to road salt better as I do most of my offroad activities in the winter. Most likely aluminum options and I want it to be fully adjustable with a 700lb front spring option.

Options I know of:
OME BP-51
Elka 2.5

Something else I am hoping they release is the Fox Performance Elite line for the 4runner, but that has not been announced at all yet. It seems like Elka does not have an extended travel option, and I am not sure about the BP-51's.

Are there any other aluminum options? And how do King/Fox 2.5 hold up to road salt/winter?
 
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Painted shocks will probably hold up better than the aluminum. If you watch "Tinkerer's Adventure" on youtube about Ironman shocks you will hear/see his discussion and see his corroded aluminum shocks. He lives in northeast.
 
I went with the Ironman Foam Cell Pro. No regrets. Kept stock ride height with stock springs. Wait for a 25% off sale and be sure to get the tool to adjust/ rebuild them. Should set you back about 1100 for front and back.

Certainly less expensive options out there but not if you want to be able to rebuild or change valving.
 
Painted shocks will probably hold up better than the aluminum. If you watch "Tinkerer's Adventure" on youtube about Ironman shocks you will hear/see his discussion and see his corroded aluminum shocks. He lives in northeast.

Thanks for mentioning that video as it was overall very interesting and informative. I don't know how all his shocks are that rusted(though none of those are aluminum). My 5100's are almost 5 yrs old now and actually have no rust at all just some black tarnishing on them. Maybe I may even be fine with non-aluminum shocks like fox 2.5 w/ resis since apparently my road salt conditions must not be as bad or I just keep them cleaner?

The ironman shocks look good, but not sure if they would be as durable as some of the higher performance type shocks. After this hunting season i want to up my durability as I plan to take my 4runner and push it harder offroad. One of the guys I went with has a ram 3500, got stuck and his front driveshaft snapped on both ends and fell out lol.

The combination of wanting to increase durability and my increased weight is pushing me to upgrade since I think I am approaching the limit of the 5100's. I have an SSO Rack, RTT when camping, dual batteries, magnuson, fridge in the back, warn bumper with 12k winch, RSG Sliders and RSG full armor(on order). I don't think the 5100's can handle OME 2886 springs+harder wheeling.
 
I called Fox regarding the issue of corrosion, and they recommended a product called Steel It be sprayed on the springs and bodies. It’s a spray paint with stainless steel particles in it, which is better than regular paint products for corrosion.

I also top coated with CRC corrosion inhibitor, which is a waxy coating.

I disassembled the coil overs when new before install, coated with 3 coats of steel it, and 1 good coat of CRC and reassembled.

Be careful with how much steel it you put on the threaded area, it will be difficult to turn the spring perch if you put more that 2 light coats. I used more CRC in this area as top coat.

Both seem to be working well for me so far.

- Mark
 
I called Fox regarding the issue of corrosion, and they recommended a product called Steel It be sprayed on the springs and bodies. It’s a spray paint with stainless steel particles in it, which is better than regular paint products for corrosion.

I also top coated with CRC corrosion inhibitor, which is a waxy coating.

I disassembled the coil overs when new before install, coated with 3 coats of steel it, and 1 good coat of CRC and reassembled.

Be careful with how much steel it you put on the threaded area, it will be difficult to turn the spring perch if you put more that 2 light coats. I used more CRC in this area as top coat.

Both seem to be working well for me so far.

- Mark

Thanks. I have seen steel-it before but was hoping not to take brand new parts and paint over them. I was also thinking of maybe just spraying them with one of those top coat protective products as well but not sure how they hold up really.
 
Thanks. I have seen steel-it before but was hoping not to take brand new parts and paint over them. I was also thinking of maybe just spraying them with one of those top coat protective products as well but not sure how they hold up really.

id install, spray em with crc or fluid film and do it on an annual basis. just dont powerwash them unless you want to strip the coating and re-apply.
 
Thanks. I have seen steel-it before but was hoping not to take brand new parts and paint over them. I was also thinking of maybe just spraying them with one of those top coat protective products as well but not sure how they hold up really.

I agree, I sprayed my painted Bil 4600's with clear coat and then every spring remove wheels and hand wipe down the springs/shocks, LCA and UCA with a damp wash rag after a trip to the car wash where I blow off the undercarriage. Also, do the inside of your wheel rims, wash them out good as brake dust and salt/water will eat them alive too.
 
The CRC Corrosion Inhibitor is definitely a good option. It's best when applied to new parts. I contacted them and was told not to put it on top of any rust. Fluid Film or Surface Shield is a better bet there. The CRC product is cosmoline and dries to a waxy consistency and appears to be less likely to wash away like FF.
 
I found the fluid film so so on rear shock bodies from Kings. If its really wet out on the highway the water washes fluid film off quickly. Forget washing your vehicle it comes off fast. It works well but lasts not long at all. I have a lot of corrosion now on my rear kings, front kings still fine.
 
I use T9 Boeshield, which seems to hold up OK, and works well at preventing rust. I hear good things about CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor. Project Farm on YoutTube did a good test of various corrosion inhibitors.
 
It sounds like CRC is the way to go for coating the coilovers. I have never coated my 5100's and have 0 rust on them so maybe the salt situation isn't as bad here in Colorado than I think?

I did clean and coat the inside of my frame with 3m cavity wax a while ago which seems similar to the waxy CRC stuff but meant for inside frames, doors etc. so I would think the CRC coating would do great on suspension parts.

Anyone using the CRC corrosion inhibitor on Fox/Kings with success? if so I may go this route if I cannot get the Fox performance elite line.
 
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Some folks here argue that the magnesium chloride they use is less corrosive than the sodium chloride they use in other regions, but at the end of the day it’s still a corrosive salt.

I think the primary differences, having come from the rust belt myself, is that there is much less humidity here year round and even the winters are relatively dry most of the year.

After a snowstorm here in Denver the roads and everything else are clean and dried up within days. In Michigan the roads are constantly coated in a moist brine all season long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Some folks here argue that the magnesium chloride they use is less corrosive than the sodium chloride they use in other regions, but at the end of the day it’s still a corrosive salt.

I think the primary differences, having come from the rust belt myself, is that there is much less humidity here year round and even the winters are relatively dry most of the year.

After a snowstorm here in Denver the roads and everything else are clean and dried up within days. In Michigan the roads are constantly coated in a moist brine all season long.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just curious but how are your dobinsons IMS holding up? and do you think due to less humidity steel bodied shocks seem to be less of a problem here in CO?
 
Just curious but how are your dobinsons IMS holding up? and do you think due to less humidity steel bodied shocks seem to be less of a problem here in CO?


I’ll have to snap some pics this week. I put the IMS on two years ago and have put almost 60k miles on them since then. They’ve spent more time in Michigan however as I only just moved to Denver last summer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Nothing lasts long out here. I have had Dobinsons on now for over 5 years now. 4 of those years getting an annual treatment with fluid film, and they are slowly rusting away. Lasting longer than most though.

Last night was the first snow of the season with a nice side helping of sand and salt. :rant:
 
Nothing lasts long out here. I have had Dobinsons on now for over 5 years now. 4 of those years getting an annual treatment with fluid film, and they are slowly rusting away. Lasting longer than most though.

Last night was the first snow of the season with a nice side helping of sand and salt. :rant:

Yea I think you guys must have it much worse than the salt. We do get roads salted/brined here but it does not seem to be having much affect on my 5100's. I washed the 4runner this weekend and pressure wash underneath. While doing this I took a close look at the 5100's and they pretty much look unaffected.
 
Maybe since the road treatment here may not be as harsh I can consider normal options such as fox 2.5 dsc factory race, king 2.5 adjustable or bilstein 8112's.
 
Not a full coilover setup like I was planning, but after looking at my current 5100's and how the finish has held up to the salt perfectly, and how I have been happy with th digressive valving I ended up ordering 6112's for the front with heavy load springs. Will probably end up ordering 5160 rears and upgrade rear to heavier springs. Currently running 2895e, but have been adding weight and expect it to get heavier with RSG sliders and full armor, so will upgrade to 2896's
 
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