Cold brings very hard, notchy steering at stand-still.

[Qyota]

So, I had this problem last winter, and forgot about it because there are no symptoms during warmer weather. Anyway, it's "back" now.

Symptom: The best example I can give is pulling out of a parallel parking spot, having to crank the wheel one way or the other, after the truck has been sitting in the cold (sub 30F) all day. It's as if I don't have power steering, and it's also VERY notchy feeling. A slight whine can be heard when trying to turn in this fashion. However, once I'm out of the parking spot and rolling, the steering is what I'd call "normal". Smooth and relatively responsive.

The rack is brand new OEM (this spring), new ITREs, OTREs, and LBJs (all OEM). This pretty much just leaves the steering joints, the pump or the belt.
Right? Should I just go ahead and replace the pump, or ?

Thanks for any help! :hatsoff:

 

[HCurphy]

Check you're power steering fluid(ATF) level? It will whine if its low.
as far as the some what "notchy" feel to it, if I understand you correctly, mines felt that way as long as I've had it. only turning the wheel at a standstill, right? does it still do it at a standstill when everythings warmed up? Might just be cold fluid?

 

[Drcoffee]

Sounds like your ball joints might be ready to pop out of joint. The notchy feeling is binding in the joint(s). Who did the LBJs? Is it possible the rack is bad?

 

[Qyota]

All work done by myself. Bad rack? How would one know? It'd not leaking. Fluid level in the pump reservoir is good. A little high, if anything. It's "fresh" ATF since I had to replace the PS lines when I did the rack in the spring.

And yes, only when cold (sub 30F), only at a stand-still. And this morning I noticed it was OK while turning the wheel in the garage (which has a smooth, nearly polished floor). Not super smooth, but not nearly as notchy as it was last night. By contrast, I drove our company car this morning for a bit (it sat out in overnight at about 15F), which is a 2010 Ford Escape (P.O.S.), and it's steering was light and smooth right away, just as you'd expect from power steering. So, I'm not really buying the "cold fluid" theory.

Truck has 172K miles...maybe it's just time for a new pump? I guess I figured it would make more of a racket on it's way out...

 

[HCurphy]

What if you take both front wheels up off the ground? Does it do it then? (I would imagine no, or much less. But if it was a pump problem it might still be present?)

 

[quicksilvr]

If the pump is original, and the fluid is DEXIII atf, then I'd say you need a new pump. You could try some of the synthetic DEXVI and see if that helps at all.

My steering is definitely stiff in the morning if I didn't park in the garage and the temp is below 30.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

So, I had this problem last winter, and forgot about it because there are no symptoms during warmer weather. Anyway, it's "back" now.

Symptom: The best example I can give is pulling out of a parallel parking spot, having to crank the wheel one way or the other, after the truck has been sitting in the cold (sub 30F) all day. It's as if I don't have power steering, and it's also VERY notchy feeling. A slight whine can be heard when trying to turn in this fashion. However, once I'm out of the parking spot and rolling, the steering is what I'd call "normal". Smooth and relatively responsive.

The rack is brand new OEM (this spring), new ITREs, OTREs, and LBJs (all OEM). This pretty much just leaves the steering joints, the pump or the belt.
Right? Should I just go ahead and replace the pump, or ?

Thanks for any help! :hatsoff:

I know I'm reviving a dead thread here buuuut

I have these same symptoms. Did you ever fix them? Idk if I should blame the pump, belt, rack, ball joints, etc.

 

[Qyota]

It's the pump, but I haven't changed it yet. It's on the list of things to do when it warms up...in 4 or 5 months.

 

[NHRunner]

I know I'm reviving a dead thread here buuuut

I have these same symptoms. Did you ever fix them? Idk if I should blame the pump, belt, rack, ball joints, etc.

Mine does the same thing. It's usually gone within 60 seconds of driving. In my case, I just don't see the point in putting in the money and labor to replace it for the benefit of an extra 60 seconds of steering power.

 

[dwichman]

I have the exact same symptoms as the OP:

Symptom: The best example I can give is pulling out of a parallel parking spot, having to crank the wheel one way or the other, after the truck has been sitting in the cold (sub 30F) all day. It's as if I don't have power steering, and it's also VERY notchy feeling. A slight whine can be heard when trying to turn in this fashion. However, once I'm out of the parking spot and rolling, the steering is what I'd call "normal". Smooth and relatively responsive.

I've also noticed that the more force the pump/rack has to overcome, such as when the front tires are downhill in my driveway, the more noticeable it is.

Another thread suggests the rack as the culprit:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/102411-power-steering-problem.html

I was thinking (hoping?) the pump was the problem before I started investigating on the forums, but now I have some doubts. Are there any additional symptoms or details I can check to decide between the pump or rack?

Thanks!

 

[mtbtim]

Before you go wasting money on a new pump, it's fairly common that the screen on the bottom of the power steering reservoir can become blocked from deposits. I'd use a turkey baster to drain most of the fluid out of the reservoir and then look down in there with a light. If you see a bunch of black crud blocking screen, a cleaning might make your problems go away.

The reason why it's more of a problem when it's cold because the fluid is thicker when it's cold. As the ATF heats up and thins out, it can make it through the partially blocked screen easier.

You have to pull the pump regardless so check the reservoir first for a blocked reservoir screen before dropping unnecessary money on a new pump.

This dude's video shows one way to do it by keeping the reservoir fully intact and cleaning with some brake cleaner:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GZwYbvwIQ4Y" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

There was a write-up from a member on this forum who actually pried the top of the reservoir off, cleaned up the screen and then put it back together but I can't find his write-up. Cleaning with several applications of brake clean should do a good enough job. I'd just spray it from both directions with copious amounts of brake clean so the nasty stuff blocking your screen makes it's way out.

 

[mtbtim]

[MENTION=113822]LookAtThatDog[/MENTION] or [MENTION=38561]Qyota[/MENTION], if either of you do what I suggested, please respond back to this thread and let us know if it worked.

 

[catrains]

if 7 plus years old replace the steering fluid.

 

[mtbtim]

if 7 plus years old replace the steering fluid.

That's a no-brainer, but if the screen is blocked up, new fluid is only going to help so much. A dirty reservoir screen can starve the system of fluid.

 

[catrains]

That's a no-brainer, but if the screen is blocked up, new fluid is only going to help so much. A dirty reservoir screen can starve the system of fluid.

if fluid was never replaced and the fluid is dirty worn out debris in system will do it . clean filter screen off add new fluid do it a couple of times.

most owners do not do this until issues arise.

this is a pressure fluid as it breaks down slow to create pressures.
I replace this at 7 yrs with the miles I do and the use .

 

[catrains]

Before you go wasting money on a new pump, it's fairly common that the screen on the bottom of the power steering reservoir can become blocked from deposits. I'd use a turkey baster to drain most of the fluid out of the reservoir and then look down in there with a light. If you see a bunch of black crud blocking screen, a cleaning might make your problems go away.

The reason why it's more of a problem when it's cold because the fluid is thicker when it's cold. As the ATF heats up and thins out, it can make it through the partially blocked screen easier.

You have to pull the pump regardless so check the reservoir first for a blocked reservoir screen before dropping unnecessary money on a new pump.

This dude's video shows one way to do it by keeping the reservoir fully intact and cleaning with some brake cleaner:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/GZwYbvwIQ4Y" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

There was a write-up from a member on this forum who actually pried the top of the reservoir off, cleaned up the screen and then put it back together but I can't find his write-up. Cleaning with several applications of brake clean should do a good enough job. I'd just spray it from both directions with copious amounts of brake clean so the nasty stuff blocking your screen makes it's way out.

brake clean is a metal only chemical. it can damage seals and plastics ..

best use a throttle body /electronic maf type cleaner safe for plastics

 

[hyken]

Mine does the same thing when it's cold. Same feeling and everything. I was pretty sure it was the fluid or the pump as cold bushings or ball joints wouldn't do that. The screen thing though... I'll have to look into that.

 

[mtbtim]

brake clean is a metal only chemical. it can damage seals and plastics ..

best use a throttle body /electronic maf type cleaner safe for plastics

Thanks for this info.