Complete suspension replacement/lift...have some questions

LBJ needs to be OEM or you could kill yourself or others when the moog crap separates on the highway completely unexpectedly.

UBJ isn't as critical as in it isn't a safety concern really because they don't see the stress the LBJ does, but they aren't fun to replace and OEM aren't that much.

Outer tie rods are cheap OEM.

Inner tie rods are a pain to change, I would go OEM. Check out amayama, they have good pricing on them. That's where I got them. I made a thread on them as well. Search my threads and you'll find it. Aftermarket ones aren't machined correctly and will bind up when the suspension is at full droop.

Lower control arm bushings need to be OEM/Whiteline/Energy. Lots of complaints about loose steering, wandering on the highway after using cheap aftermarket stuff.

Upper control arm bushings, haven't heard anything really complaining about aftermarket cheap parts, but why risk it?

End links, moog might be OK here.

Be ready to replace your CV boots after the lift, good chance they will tear.

You don't need to do anything with the panhard bar. Mine is still stock and I'm running more lift in the rear. The axle is slightly shifted to the passenger side, that's it.

Yes OEM parts are expensive, but considering the originals laster 250k miles, you'll be good for a long long time if you do it right the first time.



Probably the best break down ever (except metal breakdowns) and the last 2 paragraphs are completely my thoughts exactly.


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Haven't seen anything like that yet and I've looked all through their diagrams.

I swear I read something about it somewhere and I feel like [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] was posting in the thread I'm thinking of. I can't find it now...

People here use Whiteline & I hear they a pain to change out. I think [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] & [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION] did these. Are you sure they need to be changed? When the time comes to change mine I'm just going to replace the LCA's with OEM because of rust & paint them before installing.

I replaced the whole arm with OEM, expensive, but I didn't have time to deal with pressing the bushings out and such.

Probably the best break down ever (except metal breakdowns) and the last 2 paragraphs are completely my thoughts exactly.


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Haha thanks, I read that as mental at first and was a little confused...
 
People here use Whiteline & I hear they a pain to change out. I think [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION] & [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION] did these. Are you sure they need to be changed? When the time comes to change mine I'm just going to replace the LCA's with OEM because of rust & paint them before installing.

I used Energy Suspension when I did mine. They are a pain to change out, definitely not for a beginner. Keep in mind you will need to tow your truck when you do either the bushings and/or control arms. It will be undriveable.

Probably the best break down ever (except metal breakdowns) and the last 2 paragraphs are completely my thoughts exactly.


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I disagree. You need an adjustable pan hard bar to get your alignment in after a lift.
 
I used Energy Suspension when I did mine. They are a pain to change out, definitely not for a beginner. Keep in mind you will need to tow your truck when you do either the bushings and/or control arms. It will be undriveable.







I disagree. You need an adjustable pan hard bar to get your alignment in after a lift.



It doesn't affect drivability by much if at all and for my purposes idc. It's not my DD.


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It doesn't affect drivability by much if at all and for my purposes idc. It's not my DD.


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You are right, it doesn't affect driveability, however it will make your tires last longer because you will be out of alignment with a lift and a stock panhard bar. I'm sure of that.
 
Keep in mind you will need to tow your truck when you do either the bushings and/or control arms. It will be undriveable.



I disagree. You need an adjustable pan hard bar to get your alignment in after a lift.

I disagree on both terms.

When you do the LCA's mark the alignment tabs in relation to the frame and install them just as they were before. You should be able to get it pretty damn close to where it should be. Mine drove pretty well on the way to firestone, certainly not undriveable.

You don't need an adjustable panhard to get an alignment. The rear end on these aren't adjustable at all being a solid axle. My alignment is really good for a lifted 3rd gen and my panhard is stock.



First alignment after my lift, now I've got closer to 2* caster in the front since adding some more weight but not adjusting the coilovers up yet, waiting to get my winch installed and my rear bumper on and rear springs swapped to fine tune the ride height one last time.
 
I disagree on both terms.

When you do the LCA's mark the alignment tabs in relation to the frame and install them just as they were before. You should be able to get it pretty damn close to where it should be. Mine drove pretty well on the way to firestone, certainly not undriveable.

You don't need an adjustable panhard to get an alignment. The rear end on these aren't adjustable at all being a solid axle. My alignment is really good for a lifted 3rd gen and my panhard is stock.



First alignment after my lift, now I've got closer to 2* caster in the front since adding some more weight but not adjusting the coilovers up yet, waiting to get my winch installed and my rear bumper on and rear springs swapped to fine tune the ride height one last time.

You are lucky then, I know plenty of people that lifted and had to add an adjustable panhard bar to get their alignment in. Trucks had no accidents.

I tried to get my LCAs back close, it was rough.
 
"lift"

I recently installed this 'lift' on my '97 but with 880 coils up front.
Skipped the diff-drop.
Prothane bushings all around.
Difference in height from stock is not huge, maybe less on your '99.
The Old Man Emu ride is other-worldly.
 
I used Energy Suspension when I did mine. They are a pain to change out, definitely not for a beginner. Keep in mind you will need to tow your truck when you do either the bushings and/or control arms. It will be undriveable.



I disagree. You need an adjustable pan hard bar to get your alignment in after a lift.

No worry with changing them out...definitely not my first time at the rodeo. Also, don't think the driveability concern will be a problem. I've done plenty of bushing/tie-rod end replacements and it's not hard getting them close enough for the 5 mile drive to the alignment shop.

The panhard bar question still looms a bit in my mind though. I think I'm going to pick up the entire Polytuff rear suspension bushing set from Australia. So while I'm in there I want to do something. Can't decide between getting the drop kit and welding it onto the axle to make it a lift kit and using the stock panhard bar....or just taking the stock bar mounting locations and then cut/sleeve/weld the panhard bar to be the correct length.


That's only $10 less than a pair of genuine parts from a Toyota dealer. Think I'll just stick with the set from Camelback.
 
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I think that's what Napa uses. It's a step up from Moog but like the OP said, might as well get OEM.

On the alignment thing. Stir-Fry is correct. I did my lift & front suspension re-fresh at the same time & there was no way I was going to chew up my new tires by driving it 9 miles to the shop. Luckily my buddy has a flatbed. I could see people not wanting to pay for a tow but it's cheaper than 1 tire.
 
I swear I read something about it somewhere and I feel like [MENTION=5345]habanero[/MENTION] was posting in the thread I'm thinking of. I can't find it now...

Weren't me [MENTION=116387]Unner[/MENTION]....at least, not that I remember. :)
 
I did my alignment with the old shitty tires on it after I did the lift..... No worries!

Then, go get new tires. Mine are wearing great but its time for a rotation soon.
 

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