Completely stuck tie rod end (steering knuckle)

[DontKnowRunner]

Hi all,

I'm replacing my right front tie rod end in my 99 runner.
- 1st attempt - Used Pittman puller from Autozone. 12" ratchet didn't give me enough leverage, so I used a long extension. Was so excited to hear the pop - only to find out the pop was a leg breaking off the puller. The puller also mushed down the top of the stud, and I then cut off 1/4" of the stud so I would have good purchase when I tried it again.

2nd attempt - I hit the area where the stud pokes out through the steering knuckle from above and below with PB Blaster Penetrant (the boot has a good sized slit in it,) and let it sit for 2 days, put a different puller on the stud, and cranked. The puller kept traveling on the stud, so I drilled a divot into the top of the stud with a 5/16" bit - now the puller doesn't travel on the stud. I cranked the puller as much as I could - using all my weight - with a 12" rachet. No movement. With the puller still in place under tension, I whacked the steering knuckle a good 10 times with a sledge hammer - nothing.

I'm at a loss here as to what else I can do to get this thing out.

(Disclaimer - I did a dozen searches in the forum and couldn't find anything relevant. I think it disregards words less than 4 letters, so tie rod stuck or budge or anything else just pulled up garbage results.)

Joe

 

[alumarine]

Have you tried heat yet?
I've had success a few times by tightening the puller as much I can and then let it sit.
I've come out an hour or so later to find it apart.

 

[DontKnowRunner]

Have you tried heat yet?
I've had success a few times by tightening the puller as much I can and then let it sit.
I've come out an hour or so later to find it apart.

That would be so nice to just walk back into the garage and find it has released. Fingers crossed.

I haven't tried heat. Which part would I heat - I'm assuming with a mapp torch - for how long. Heat and then let sit, or heat and then try to crank it more or whack the knuckle some more?

 

[Honda pc]

try air hammer chizel at the broke stud... but don't damage the knuckle tie rod hole... hold the air hammer steady as it wanders off all over if not steady.

 

[cl4Rk]

Hi all,

I'm replacing my right front tie rod end in my 99 runner.
- 1st attempt - Used Pittman puller from Autozone. 12" ratchet didn't give me enough leverage, so I used a long extension. Was so excited to hear the pop - only to find out the pop was a leg breaking off the puller. The puller also mushed down the top of the stud, and I then cut off 1/4" of the stud so I would have good purchase when I tried it again.

2nd attempt - I hit the area where the stud pokes out through the steering knuckle from above and below with PB Blaster Penetrant (the boot has a good sized slit in it,) and let it sit for 2 days, put a different puller on the stud, and cranked. The puller kept traveling on the stud, so I drilled a divot into the top of the stud with a 5/16" bit - now the puller doesn't travel on the stud. I cranked the puller as much as I could - using all my weight - with a 12" rachet. No movement. With the puller still in place under tension, I whacked the steering knuckle a good 10 times with a sledge hammer - nothing.

I'm at a loss here as to what else I can do to get this thing out.

(Disclaimer - I did a dozen searches in the forum and couldn't find anything relevant. I think it disregards words less than 4 letters, so tie rod stuck or budge or anything else just pulled up garbage results.)

Joe

EDIT: re-read your post. I guess you're trying to do both right now, and the lower ball joint assembly is stuck to the knuckle. Sorry I misunderstood. I'll follow this thread to see what others suggest... That sounds very frustrating!

Don't the outer tie rods connect to the lower ball joint assembly (not directly to the knuckle/spindle)?

I'm not sure how helpful this will be, but if you haven't done your LBJs yet, maybe do them now as well and don't worry about fighting the tie rod? Just a thought.

 

[DontKnowRunner]

EDIT: re-read your post. I guess you're trying to do both right now, and the lower ball joint assembly is stuck to the knuckle. Sorry I misunderstood. I'll follow this thread to see what others suggest... That sounds very frustrating!

Don't the outer tie rods connect to the lower ball joint assembly (not directly to the knuckle/spindle)?

I'm not sure how helpful this will be, but if you haven't done your LBJs yet, maybe do them now as well and don't worry about fighting the tie rod? Just a thought.

LBJs are solid. This step is just to replace the right front outer tie rod, though after that time permitting I'll be installing poly steering rack bushings.

 

[gamefreakgc]

I'm not sure how helpful this will be, but if you haven't done your LBJs yet, maybe do them now as well and don't worry about fighting the tie rod? Just a thought.

That's my thought too. If you've never replaced the lower ball joints, this might be the time to do so. I know you weren't planning on it but will also save you a headache and from buying more tools. Might as well put that money towards something that increases the longevity of your 4Runner at the same time.

Care about using a torch on the tie rod end. The boot is rubber and filled with grease, both of which are flammable. Last thing you want is a grease fire that could then spread up into the engine. No bueno.

 

[DontKnowRunner]

That's my thought too. If you've never replaced the lower ball joints, this might be the time to do so. I know you weren't planning on it but will also save you a headache and from buying more tools. Might as well put that money towards something that increases the longevity of your 4Runner at the same time.

Care about using a torch on the tie rod end. The boot is rubber and filled with grease, both of which are flammable. Last thing you want is a grease fire that could then spread up into the engine. No bueno.

Thanks [MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION]. Boot is shredded - no grease left - the main driver of the replacement. Appreciate the warning. Haven't tried heat yet, but if/when I do, there will be an extinguisher within reach.

 

[DontKnowRunner]

Welp, I tried heating the stud, then hitting it with penetrant - the cooling is supposed to suck in the penetrant around the threads, then having a go at it with the sledge, then the puller, then sledge with the puller. Nothing.

Replacing the ball joint might be an option, but I don’t have the part here now, and I’ve gotta have this back on the road in 4 days for a trip.

I’m gonna call it for now. Gonna schedule time with the mechanic for the tie rod replacement and the alignment and work on getting the bushings done prior to that. I’ll keep hitting it with penetrant and take another go at the tie rod after replacing the bushings b4 taking to the mechanic.


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[cl4Rk]

Welp, I tried heating the stud, then hitting it with penetrant - the cooling is supposed to suck in the penetrant around the threads, then having a go at it with the sledge, then the puller, then sledge with the puller. Nothing.

Replacing the ball joint might be an option, but I don’t have the part here now, and I’ve gotta have this back on the road in 4 days for a trip.

I’m gonna call it for now. Gonna schedule time with the mechanic for the tie rod replacement and the alignment and work on getting the bushings done prior to that. I’ll keep hitting it with penetrant and take another go at the tie rod after replacing the bushings b4 taking to the mechanic.


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I’m certain this isn’t your problem, but did you turn the key to ACC to unlock the steering gear?

Again, obviously your bolt is very seized, but I’m just thinking about minimizing collateral damage while your banging on things with hammers.

 

[HiLife]

Did you try stepping it up by using a pickle fork and a sledge?
Try to eliminate suspension droop by jacking the spindle up. Hoping to eliminate extra otr stud/lbj reciever binding as much as possible.
A better way would be an air hammer with pickle fork.

 

[RandyBobandy]

Since you’re replacing it anyway just smack the end of the stud with a hammer, it will come out

 

[brillo_76]

Since you’re replacing it anyway just smack the end of the stud with a hammer, it will come out

If that doesn't work... You get a bigger hammer.. A few cycles of penetrating oil and heating will get it. As the heating and cooling will break the rust bond.

Also let it cool down completely between cycles.

 

[gamefreakgc]

If that doesn't work... You get a bigger hammer.. A few cycles of penetrating oil and heating will get it. As the heating and cooling will break the rust bond.

Also let it cool down completely between cycles.

I encountered an outer tie rod last month that did not come out with a hammer. Used a 3 lb sledge too, so that doesn't always work. But the 2-arm puller did the trick just fine with an 18" socket wrench.

Op, do you have a section of copper or galvanized pipe you can slip over your wrench as a cheater bar? More handle length = more torque and might be just enough to do the trick. 12" wrench is hard to get a ton of torque on.

 

[cahilc]

Grease those threads on the tie rod puller.

The main body is forged and the drive pin is machined.

As force is applied to much is lost in the binding of the threads.

Hope this helps!

 

[thegipper]

I had a TRE that didn't wan't to budge on my 97 4R. I had to use the oxy torch until it was glowing and still had to smack the shit out of it with a sledge for it to drop. Heat is definitely the answer, you just need more of it.

 

[brillo_76]

I encountered an outer tie rod last month that did not come out with a hammer. Used a 3 lb sledge too, so that doesn't always work. But the 2-arm puller did the trick just fine with an 18" socket wrench.

Op, do you have a section of copper or galvanized pipe you can slip over your wrench as a cheater bar? More handle length = more torque and might be just enough to do the trick. 12" wrench is hard to get a ton of torque on.

Yes so have I. Heating it and cooling it with penatrating oil in between mostly gets them. which is why I included it with the bigger hammer. I had the puller stuck as well on tie rods and ball joints.

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[brillo_76]

I had a TRE that didn't wan't to budge on my 97 4R. I had to use the oxy torch until it was glowing and still had to smack the shit out of it with a sledge for it to drop. Heat is definitely the answer, you just need more of it.

Yup. I had to do it that several times myself over the years. Amazing how those taper joints can bound together.

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[gamefreakgc]

Yes so have I. Heating it and cooling it with penatrating oil in between mostly gets them. which is why I included it with the bigger hammer. I had the puller stuck as well on tie rods and ball joints.

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I live in a rust-free area too. Can't imagine what it's like with rust as they are stubborn enough as they are!

 

[brillo_76]

I live in a rust-free area too. Can't imagine what it's like with rust as they are stubborn enough as they are!

Lots of times you have to do what gripper suggested. Use cutting torches to heat the metal until it starts glowing. Then soak it with penatrating oil once or twice. I always anti seize coat those tapered anti seize if I take them apart.

Then after a cycle or 2 of hearing up and cooling down with penatrating oil. The big hammer knocks them lose...

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