removing steering wheel play by replacing the steering rack shaft

[trashboy]

recently picked up a 98 4runner which is in mechanically good condition, but came with some sloppy steering.

so far, i have done
- steering rack bushings
- lower ball joints
- lower control arm bushings
- upper control arm bushings
- outer tie rods
- alignment

steering feels much tighter now, but i still have an issue with the truck veering slightly or becoming a tad unstable when going over speedbumps. another symptom is when the truck is not in motion, or driving straight, i can move the steering wheel about an inch left or right without affecting the direction its traveling. its still very much driveable, but its getting tiresome having to readjust the wheel slightly during driving.

i read a couple threads and saw some videos on people tac welding the steering rack shaft to remove the play in it. i haven't actually confirmed this is the problem yet (will check tomorrow), am curious if people have had success simply replacing the main shaft to fix this issue instead of tac welding it. would the fix last a while, or would i simply run into the same issue in a couple years? i have never liked the idea of messing with safety features, and the peace of mind would make me feel better simply replacing the part rather than doing a DIY fix.

i believe the part number is 45210-35200, outlined here 45210-35200 - Main-Shaft - 1996-2004 Toyota | Nucar Toyota of North Attleboro

does anyone have any ideas on what else could be causing this play? can someone please confirm that this part# is what i would be looking to replace if i wanted to simply replace the part?

 

[heat]

Didn't see the rag joint mentioned...

45230-35090

 

[jgue467]

...... when the truck is not in motion, or driving straight, i can move the steering wheel about an inch left or right without affecting the direction its traveling....

Just so you know, out of the box Toyota owner's manual says 1" of steering play is 'normal', so it won't get at tight at a Porsche yet yours seems a little extra sloppy at present.

 

[anniesball72]

Didn't see the rag joint mentioned...

45230-35090

At 150k I replaced everything OEM the OP did. In addition to a rebuilt rack from Camelback, inner tie roads, replaced lower control arms with new OEM for new bushings, etc. EVERYTHING! Steering was greatly improved yet still not back to new. (I bought mine new).

Next I replaced the rag joint. For me it didn’t make a difference. Not to say it won’t for you.

Then I read the post about tac welding it.

Had that done and the steering tightness was much better. Back to new.

In my opinion, tack welding it is much cheaper, you end up with the same result. With the weld it will not degrade over time.

 

[alumarine]

Like others, I had to tack weld my steering column as well to remove play.
I figure with seatbelt and air bag, I should be ok.

 

[mtbtim]

It sounds like you need this video.

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[trashboy]

It sounds like you need this video.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/xsOptgpfshg?si=RvSzqA1hhDhFwz4E" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>

yep, saw this video but wanna explore options that does not involve tack welding. maybe im just paranoid but i figure better to be safe than sorry.

does anyone have any input on whether that part # seems correct if i want to just replace the shaft entirely?

 

[mtbtim]

yep, saw this video but wanna explore options that does not involve tack welding. maybe im just paranoid but i figure better to be safe than sorry.

does anyone have any input on whether that part # seems correct if i want to just replace the shaft entirely?

Just know this, and this is coming from a firefighter (Me) who has seen MANY automobile accidents over the last 17 years. MOST people escape pretty gnarly accidents with minimal injury because of seatbelts and air bags. If there was a massive enough head on collision with major intrusion into the passenger compartment that would cause the steering shaft to collapse, usually these people don't survive regardless of the safety mechanisms in place.

What I'm trying to say is your concern shouldn't be a concern with tac welding the steering shaft. Don't overthink it. Do the tac weld and save some money.

 

[nissanh]

It is really bad to the steering shaft (splines and U joints) if wheel is turned while engine off. Once I had to remove the upper and lower covers of the steering column and had something removed in the engine so I couldn't start the engine, so I basically lifted both wheels off the ground to turn the steering. Mine is at 220K miles and absolutely zero play in the steering!

 

[alumarine]

It is really bad to the steering shaft (splines and U joints) if wheel is turned while engine off. Once I had to remove the upper and lower covers of the steering column and had something removed in the engine so I couldn't start the engine, so I basically lifted both wheels off the ground to turn the steering. Mine is at 220K miles and absolutely zero play in the steering!

I've turned the steering wheel lock to lock with the motor off hundreds of times with the wheels on the ground on a variety of vehicles with no ill effects.
Many others have as well.

 

[snydmax]

Had same… eventually replaced everything up front… some play remained. Tack welded the slip thingy and play gone, never looked back


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[96RedRunner]

Needs to be worse than this to effect steering column.

Got tacked when needed, same will happen to 01.

 

[Stickma2]

I just purchased a third GEN 4Runner a couple of months ago. 200 K miles. I have 1 inch play in my steering, which is no big deal Unless as you pointed out you’re going down the freeway at 70. You seem to have done all the front end part bushings that would cause play.

Went to a number of shops all had varying opinions on what to try, all money out of my pocket. I can’t afford to rebuild the vehicle from the ground up, So I decided to do my own investigation. It might be a value for you to start your analysis from the rack and pinion back to the steering wheel.
First collapsible steering column. You can see it, there is open access to it under the dash. Close your fist around the joint, move the steering wheel back-and-forth, you can feel if there is play or not. Mine not.
Next with drivers window down and hood up, you can see the U joint that connects the steering column to the steering shaft. Move the steering wheel slightly back-and-forth and see if there is play or movement. Mine no play.
Next is flat rag joint at bottom of steering shaft. Move steering wheel back-and-forth see if there’s play there. Mine none.
Next, with the help of a mirror, watch connection to rack and pinion as you move the wheel back-and-forth. Mine no play, which would suggest the rack and pinion is OK.
There is still 1 inch play in steering wheel before tires on ground move.
So From that point, there’s all sorts of front end parts that could be involved, tie rods, control arms, etc. they are all metal, but they all have bushings. Worn bushings create play.
Per recommendation of latest shop, I replaced lower left tie rod. Steering wheel play is now down to half an inch which is tolerable.

Since you did everything before the rack and pinion, I would try the above steps. Play in the collapsible steering column seems to be something that happens a lot. That ends up being your situation, I agree I’d have some concern with welding it so it wouldn’t collapse in case of a front end collision. But it certainly seems to be an inexpensive fix. Good luck.

 

[anniesball72]

Like others, I had to tack weld my steering column as well to remove play.
I figure with seatbelt and air bag, I should be ok.

I also replaced everything. The tack weld really took the last bit of play out.