Computer reset

Nunyabiz

New member
I went to get my truck inspected in order to renew registration yesterday and when the guy pulled my Ultragauge from the OBDII he did it while the truck was running and I am pretty sure that caused the computer to reset. Something did and that is the only thing that could have done it IMO.

No codes of any kind have been thrown, truck runs smooth as silk.

He said I have to run it to get the computer to reset so he can run it on the machine for inspection.

He at first said to run it 15 miles or so, I ran it 25 miles and brought it back and no go.
Ran another 10 and still no go.
So anyway of knowing just how many miles I have to run it before everything resets so I can get it inspected?
 
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I had the same issue last year when I re-smogged. I had removed the battery and as a result I couldn't smog. I drove around for two days and all was good.
 
Here you go...

http://www.mr2roc.org/misc/referencelibrary/toyotaservicebulletins/03engine/03.pdf

Do the pattern to reset catalytic efficiency for your truck (different for A/F Cali. type 2-cat systems). All the others will have reset before you get this one done. It generally takes the better part of a tank of gas if you just do random driving of various types of routes.


Jeebus H Christ.

Thank you so much for the info though, really appreciate it.
I guess I will just take a few short trips.
 
I had the same issue last year when I re-smogged. I had removed the battery and as a result I couldn't smog. I drove around for two days and all was good.

I am thinking it had to be the disconnection of the Ultragauge while running for mine. If not then I don't what the heck happened.

Hopefully mine will do the same after a 100 miles or so.
 
I know ... He has a lot of great the information stored somewhere.

I'd love to see a thread "The Durk's Top 50 Links for 3rd Gen Owners"
 
I know ... He has a lot of great the information stored somewhere.

I'd love to see a thread "The Durk's Top 50 Links for 3rd Gen Owners"

I have two sets: General T4R--with suppliers and reference sources, maybe 40 links.

Then there is T4R How-to's with maybe 80 links to threads here, and on Yotatech and elsewhere, and good non-forum how-to write-ups all over.

I also have a local "T4R Manuals & Tech" download collection on my hard drive, maybe 50 documents. I also have a paper library--books and loose printouts--maybe 10 inches thick.

All of these I have been building since 1999--3G only of course.

I would have to edit out a lot of dead crap and organize them better before I could share them all.

This one I had on my hard drive, then I Googled the TSB number to find a live link to it.

There is also a Word FAQ file, where I have saved some of my better answers for reuse.
 
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Hello...I've got a related issue -

I turned my car on one morning and within a minute of normal driving the check engine light went on - then I noticed the coolant temp steadily rising whilst I was driving gently. anyway before it hit the red line (and after waiting an hr) I took it to a shop and they pulled a code P0116. The check engine light went out just prior to getting to the mechanics. Anyway - I re-plated (out of state) the vehicle the day prior to this happening and I have to get the car inspected within the next few days - the car has run fine after driving 20 miles with no overheating (never had an issue before) - The mechanic couldn't diagnose the problem after looking at the car and running it for 1/2 an hr a day after I dropped it off.....

2 questions:
1) what's the most likely cause of the temperamental overheating? Temp sensor /dodgy water pump?

2)How do I get the code to drop off - so it passes state inspection - do I really need to drive ~ 100 miles?

Cheers,
 
I wonder if that crazy cycle is really necessary.

If after a couple of days of driving, and with a warm carb, you can't pass smog, then there is an issue with your cat/o2 sensors... or computer.
 
[MENTION=143279]Dougal[/MENTION] p0116 is for the engine not warming up properly like a stuck open thermostat. P0115 usually sets when the vehicle overheats or temp sensor is shorted to ground. If the check engine light turned off by itself and the mechanic didnÂ’t clear the codes your monitors should be set, but if he did clear them, he most likely did, you will have to perform the drive cycle.
 
Thanks for the replys - Fingers crossed - I'll do the 'drive cycle' tomorrow (hopefully without incident) and then see if the code drops off etc .....One way to kill a couple of hrs anyway......
 
Quick update - drove the car~ 100 miles - monitors were reset - passed inspection fine - no problems with car since the inital issue cleared. One thing I neglected to mention that initially I tried to drive the car with my fuel pump cut-off switch on - I forgot it was on - anyway I din't think that would be of significance but seeing as there hasn't been an issue since, who knows ?? my mechanical knowledge is pretty limited........
 

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