Consolidated Lighting Info Thread

Hoping somebody can clear up my confusion between the Retrofit Source/Morimoto kit and the Xenon Depot kit.

I bought the Morimoto kit and am preparing to install. But looking at install videos, it looks like the Xenon Depot kit has a much simpler design--essentially just ballasts that hook into the power source right at the headlight and then plug into the bulb.

The Morimoto kit I have has a battery lead, bulb leads, a huge relay, and external igniters in addition to the ballasts and bulbs. It is a ton of wiring.

Compare: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/h...+4Runner&preselect=47309&preselect_restrict=1

with

https://www.xenondepot.com/2017-4runner-h11-hid-kit-p/32aq-0000-h11-hid-kit.htm

Can someone confirm that the wiring on the kits is really so different? Is there a benefit to the Morimoto approach? I'm inclined to sell my Morimoto kit and buy the Xenon Depot one to avoid all the extra under hood wiring.
 
Hoping somebody can clear up my confusion between the Retrofit Source/Morimoto kit and the Xenon Depot kit.

I bought the Morimoto kit and am preparing to install. But looking at install videos, it looks like the Xenon Depot kit has a much simpler design--essentially just ballasts that hook into the power source right at the headlight and then plug into the bulb.

The Morimoto kit I have has a battery lead, bulb leads, a huge relay, and external igniters in addition to the ballasts and bulbs. It is a ton of wiring.

Compare: https://www.theretrofitsource.com/h...+4Runner&preselect=47309&preselect_restrict=1

with

https://www.xenondepot.com/2017-4runner-h11-hid-kit-p/32aq-0000-h11-hid-kit.htm

Can someone confirm that the wiring on the kits is really so different? Is there a benefit to the Morimoto approach? I'm inclined to sell my Morimoto kit and buy the Xenon Depot one to avoid all the extra under hood wiring.

I can’t comment on the Morimoto, but you are right on the Xenon Depot HID kit. You do not need the included harness. The ballast mounts right up to the existing light power supply. Literally plug and play. I did mine a few weeks ago and it was super easy. Night and day difference from stock.
 
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I can’t comment on the Morimoto, but you are right on the Xenon Depot HID kit. You do not need the included harness. The ballast mounts right up to the existing light power supply. Literally plug and play. I did mine a few weeks ago and it was super easy. Night and day difference from stock.

Thanks for the feedback :) Happy to hear that you're enjoying your XenonDepot HID Kit :)

lld3monll - HID kits are not all the same as there are no "Standards" when it comes to aftermarket HID or LED lighting products being brought into the country.

This H11 HID bulb review posted on HIDplanet a little while ago shows that HID bulbs (all rated at the same kelvin) put out significantly different amounts of light output (lumens) - forget about whether they all use proper uv-quarz glass:

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/fo...ictures/1451111-aftermarket-hid-bulb-shootout

The pics were taken down by photo bucket, but we grabbed them before thy were taken down... The review is worth a read.

HID-lights-compare-sm.jpg
 
Doesn't really answer what I'm asking. The two kits have significantly different wiring setups.

The info given by lld3monll is also incorrect...

I have Morimoto equipment, so I will comment on that. TRS and Morimoto kits use their own relays and fuses to keep that system separate from the OEM system I assume to protect all vehicle components in case of failure.
That is one reason I went with Morimoto HIDs.

I am not downing [MENTION=12905]XenonDepot[/MENTION] or their equipment, it has been my personal choice for years to use Morimoto.

I am sure Steve can chime in on why they choose to run their equipment directly into the headlight connectors.

Side note: Whenever I do any lighting mods, other than a simple bulb replacement, I always use separate fuses and relays when applicable.

Hope this helps...
 
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The Xtreme HID kit comes with a relay harness similar to what you describe, except that with our kit you literally get 2 relay harnesses - 1 per side. Each side is completely independent of the other:

WIREHAR-2T.jpg


Having said that, our ballasts are low draw, which means that you can safely power them right from the OE wiring as they only draw approx 4.5A on a cold start. Some people prefer not to use it due to the extra wiring.

I can't speak to the Morimoto product as I don't know anything about it, but I know that some ballasts have a really high start up draw, which I wouldn't recommend powering from the OE wiring.

Steve
 
The Xtreme HID kit comes with a relay harness similar to what you describe, except that with our kit you literally get 2 relay harnesses - 1 per side. Each side is completely independent of the other:

WIREHAR-2T.jpg


Having said that, our ballasts are low draw, which means that you can safely power them right from the OE wiring as they only draw approx 4.5A on a cold start. Some people prefer not to use it due to the extra wiring.

I can't speak to the Morimoto product as I don't know anything about it, but I know that some ballasts have a really high start up draw, which I wouldn't recommend powering from the OE wiring.

Steve

Thanks for that INFO!
 
2013 SR5 (Old style Front Bumper/Lights with 1156NA DRL/Turn Signals in front):

If I install something like these 1156 Amber LED's in the DRL/Turn Signal location, will I need the associated Load Resistor to prevent hyper-flash?

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...led-tower-ba15s-retrofit/2622/#/attributes/16


Same Hyper-Flash question for these 992/7440A Amber LED's for Rear Turn Signal:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...led-tower-wedge-retrofit/2611/#/attributes/16


Suggested Resistor:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...yper-flash-warning-fix/190/?accessory_of=2622


Or if any of you have any other superior Amber LED replacement suggestions for these locations - I'm all ears...

PS - The Amber LED's for the 194/2825 front marker lights (in the headlight cluster) turned out nice!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01732ZMPK/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Thanks! :hatsoff:

I went through a couple different iterations of bulbs in my car and yes you will need a resistor to not get hyper flash with LED's. I know these are a little spendy, but I think they are totally worth it: VLEDS Great output and the quality of the kit is amazing. plus everything is plug and play and they even give you a large piece of heat shrink to seal off the bulb connections with the factory plug up front. I am very happy with mine. I got Amber front and rear.
 
My Simdevanma $40 LED bulbs have been great. More than a year of perfect working order now. My writeup on them was here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...fogs-fit-2016-toyota-4runner.html#post2677065

I get that everyone says "you get what you pay for" and I agree with mission critical items like tires, racks, sliders, etc. But with lights they swap so easy and spares can be left in the car. And my inexpensive lights have been nothing but rock solid, no problems. Even through a number of water crossings now. Everyone will buy what they are comfortable with, but lights are one area where I was able to save a few dollars with little to no risk.

Flammers / Trolls - Engage...
 
For everybody running leds in their stock fog lights, are you turning them on always at night or only on dark country roads. And are you getting flashed by incoming traffic or etc?

I am asking bc I was driving on the Hwy the other day and I was behind a car, the car then got into the right lane to let me pass, then he got behind me and turned his brights on. LOL
 
For everybody running leds in their stock fog lights, are you turning them on always at night or only on dark country roads. And are you getting flashed by incoming traffic or etc?

I am asking bc I was driving on the Hwy the other day and I was behind a car, the car then got into the right lane to let me pass, then he got behind me and turned his brights on. LOL

The question you pose makes me think of several things. First, was it a small car and your headlights just happen to be hitting there rearview mirror and blinding them due to it being in a small car.
Second, are you sure it’s your fog lights that are causing the issue? Fog light reflectors throw a horizontal beam ,not a flooding beam.
Third, are your headlights adjusted properly?

That’s all I have !
 
I will be going for the Morimoto H1 Mini retrofit. Extremely sick of the people driving with HIDs or LEDs thrown into non-projector housings.
 

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