Consolidated Lighting Info Thread

[Trail4me]

I just did the low beam with h9 and high beams with h11. Took 20 minutes. Driver side low beam is a bit of a pain because of the battery but manageable without removing it. I did notice that my left high beam light is a bit loose in the socket after conversion. I might add some shim's like tape to the backside brackets of the bulb.

As for improvement it's totally worth it, especially low beams for $15. Now they are adequate. I also tested them in the first snow storm of the year and happy to report no ice and snow accumulation.

High beams also yelded a nice improvement, all though at $45 one needs evaluate if it's needed. For city folks it may not make sense, but for me it does.

I do want to say thanks to all that contributed to this and other threads on the subject. The links and suggestions proved invaluable to the 4Runner newb like me.

 

[ElectroBoy]

I just did the low beam with h9 and high beams with h11. Took 20 minutes. Driver side low beam is a bit of a pain because of the battery but manageable without removing it. I did notice that my left high beam light is a bit loose in the socket after conversion. I might add some shim's like tape to the backside brackets of the bulb.

As for improvement it's totally worth it, especially low beams for $15. Now they are adequate. I also tested them in the first snow storm of the year and happy to report no ice and snow accumulation.

High beams also yelded a nice improvement, all though at $45 one needs evaluate if it's needed. For city folks it may not make sense, but for me it does.

I do want to say thanks to all that contributed to this and other threads on the subject. The links and suggestions proved invaluable to the 4Runner newb like me.

Take a look around post 123. There’s a note about adding tape as a shim to snug up the fit. It works.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2836345-post123.html

 

[mordotz]

Still trying to make a decision on headlight options. My goal is to somehow make the mismatch of the white OEM LED fogs and the yellow halogen look better and improve the overall output.

My first thought was H9 in the lows and putting Lamin-x yellow film on the fogs for a JDM look but it sounds like the Lamin-x yellow + the white OEM LED fogs produce a greenish output according to an Amazon review.

That made me look into matching the OEM fogs (5000-5500k). HID in the stock housing is out for me due to the excessive glare. Retrofit is out since I’m too lazy. lol That leaves LEDs which based off of my research is slightly better than stock but to not expect anything amazing in terms of output (especially the throw). Currently looking at either the Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 for the lows and XD Xtreme Pro for the high for ~$200 total or the Morimoto XB headlights for $920. The XB headlights seem to be more of an aesthetic upgrade and doesn’t seem to be 4x better so I’m leaning towards the 2Stroke 2.0 + XD Pros.

If anyone has any thoughts that would be greatly appreciated!

 

[NW.OH.T4R]

Still trying to make a decision on headlight options. My goal is to somehow make the mismatch of the white OEM LED fogs and the yellow halogen look better and improve the overall output.

My first thought was H9 in the lows and putting Lamin-x yellow film on the fogs for a JDM look but it sounds like the Lamin-x yellow + the white OEM LED fogs produce a greenish output according to an Amazon review.

That made me look into matching the OEM fogs (5000-5500k). HID in the stock housing is out for me due to the excessive glare. Retrofit is out since I’m too lazy. lol That leaves LEDs which based off of my research is slightly better than stock but to not expect anything amazing in terms of output (especially the throw). Currently looking at either the Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 for the lows and XD Xtreme Pro for the high for ~$200 total or the Morimoto XB headlights for $920. The XB headlights seem to be more of an aesthetic upgrade and doesn’t seem to be 4x better so I’m leaning towards the 2Stroke 2.0 + XD Pros.

If anyone has any thoughts that would be greatly appreciated!

Check the clearance section on the retrofit source website. They often have the 2stroke’s discounted as open box returns. Since your fog lights won’t be on at the same time as high beams, I’d recommend the 9011 high beam mod.

I have this setup as a stop-gap until I finish my bi-xenon retrofit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[mynameistory]

Still trying to make a decision on headlight options. My goal is to somehow make the mismatch of the white OEM LED fogs and the yellow halogen look better and improve the overall output.

My first thought was H9 in the lows and putting Lamin-x yellow film on the fogs for a JDM look but it sounds like the Lamin-x yellow + the white OEM LED fogs produce a greenish output according to an Amazon review.

That made me look into matching the OEM fogs (5000-5500k). HID in the stock housing is out for me due to the excessive glare. Retrofit is out since I’m too lazy. lol That leaves LEDs which based off of my research is slightly better than stock but to not expect anything amazing in terms of output (especially the throw). Currently looking at either the Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 for the lows and XD Xtreme Pro for the high for ~$200 total or the Morimoto XB headlights for $920. The XB headlights seem to be more of an aesthetic upgrade and doesn’t seem to be 4x better so I’m leaning towards the 2Stroke 2.0 + XD Pros.

If anyone has any thoughts that would be greatly appreciated!

I have this exact setup that I have since taken out of my truck (plus DRL drivers so you can use your dimmed DRL function). I removed it and went back to halogen because, frankly, I think it's less important to match light color than it is to have proper functional lighting.

I've sent the Morimoto lights out for evaluation (to see if they're any better than any other LED bulb). I don't recommend using them for the reasons I mentioned in the previous page, but if you're interested in trying them out I might consider selling.

 

[mynameistory]

$15 worth of lights is that much better than OEM? Sounds like a good gamble to me!

Not only is it better than OEM, it's better than any drop-in LED bulb (though that's not saying much).

 

[cb1111]

I didn’t realize how many LED haters there were out there! I appreciate all the points raised here, but I think we can all agree that the stock setup sucks. So then, what’s the best way to improve visibility?

It has nothing to do with "LED haters". It has to do with trying to put a square peg into a round hole and calling it a rectangle. Like others have said, each type of bulb has its own design and requires its own housing. If you try to put an LED bulb into a housing designed for halogens then you will not get anything close to proper light output.

Not only won't it work properly, but it also doesn't meet the regs.

 

[Saker]

I didn’t realize how many LED haters there were out there! I appreciate all the points raised here, but I think we can all agree that the stock setup sucks. So then, what’s the best way to improve visibility?

Hello [MENTION=448671]clarksky[/MENTION],

It's not about haters of LED's. Led's do have their purpose for particular applications and locations of where they are best used.
Look at my build for example.
I have LED's!
They are not in my low beam locations for obvious reasons but I do have them in my high beam location because HID's are not suited because they take time to fire to normal running brightness.

By design of the side firing projector and the leds construction and placement of the chips, the LED's just fail in the low beams.
I tried H9's, LED's and none perform as the HID's I currently have.

I know people want to go with the cheapest or should I state the most inexpensive upgrade, but I lean to have the best light quality over price if it can be afforded.
I lean on the side of having good lighting as I do with good braking and good tires.... safety to myself, wife and anyone riding in my vehicles are at the very top of the list.

Oh, for the people that state the HID's are blinding oncoming traffic from our projectors, well adjust them properly... remember they have a cut-off built in the projector.
Use it.

 

[mynameistory]

Oh, for the people that state the HID's are blinding oncoming traffic from our projectors, well adjust them properly... remember they have a cut-off built in the projector.
Use it.

Yes, but headlights are designed to have light spill vertically above the cutoff as well. Some call it "uplight" or "squirrel spotters", and it's designed to lightly illuminate reflective street signs without dazzling oncoming traffic. Putting an HID bulb in a halogen housing makes this spilled light much brighter than the acceptable threshold.

 

[clarksky]

New Video from Headlight Revolution

Interesting stuff:

youtu.be/TAmpVnZD9TI

 

[Saker]

Yes, but headlights are designed to have light spill vertically above the cutoff as well. Some call it "uplight" or "squirrel spotters", and it's designed to lightly illuminate reflective street signs without dazzling oncoming traffic. Putting an HID bulb in a halogen housing makes this spilled light much brighter than the acceptable threshold.

ok.....
Never had any squirrels complain.
What is the "acceptable threshold"?
Never saw that in print anywhere, maybe I missed it.

I did the ultimate test.
I drove my wife's car, she drove my 4Runner, (BTW.. her Lincoln sits much lower than my 4Runner), the 4Runner headlights never gave me any issue oncoming.

Debate is over on my side.

 

[mynameistory]

Debate is over on my side.

Not debating with you. You said people shouldn't hate HID bulbs as long as the cutoff is aimed correctly. I'm providing a reason why other drivers still dislike "HID kits", and the reason is because they glare above the cutoff.

Trust me, I know the stock lighting in the 4Runner is not great. But drop-in LED and HID bulbs present their own problems. A true retrofit with real HID or LED avoids these problems.

 

[Saker]

Not debating with you. You said people shouldn't hate HID bulbs as long as the cutoff is aimed correctly. I'm providing a reason why other drivers still dislike "HID kits", and the reason is because they glare above the cutoff.

Trust me, I know the stock lighting in the 4Runner is not great. But drop-in LED and HID bulbs present their own problems. A true retrofit with real HID or LED avoids these problems.

[MENTION=208721]mynameistory[/MENTION]
Wasn’t trying to offend, and I don’t think you took it that way.
Yep, had true conversions in previous vehicles. Aware the only true and correct way to upgrade to HID or LED’s is not to performs a bulb swap.
Now there are quality assembly’s available with HID’s and/or LED’s.
Both true assembly replacements are expensive
A lot of people want to throw a 6.00 LED in and expect that to work.... it just will not.

 

[Crush2.0]

Read all this, so what is best option?

 

[mordotz]

I swear any lighting related thread on this forum brings out the worst in people. Let's all be happy, there's a counter argument to every option out there.

Read all this, so what is best option?

I've done quite a bit of research over the last couple weeks. I've listed the options as I know them below..

HIDs (in stock housing) - This will hands down get you the most light output for the money. This is also a controversial option as you're putting HIDs in a halogen projector. There's a 50/50 split on people who say this will cause excessive glare vs people who don't. Various color temps available

LEDs - Based off of my research, it seems like if you buy a higher quality LED kit such as the Morimoto/Supernova/XD, they will provide an output slightly better than stock. Note that kits such as the Morimoto and Supernova come with fans on the unit which will produce noise. Cooler color temps available to get rid of the stock halogen whitish-yellow.

H9 - Honestly, if you don't want to piss off anyone in this thread, go with this option. lol Requires a small modification to the bulb. Double the stock output for $15, but keep in mind that H9s run at 65W vs 55W which means it will run hotter with more power on the stock wiring harness. The consensus is that the extra heat and power should be ok. Whitish-yellow output.

High Performance H11 - This is an option I don't frequently see on this forum but see a lot on the Tacoma forum. GE Megalight Ultra H11 - double the stock output, direct replacement, $30-40. Note that these bulbs have a short lifespan. Whitish-yellow output.

Retrofit HIDs/LEDs - Swap out the stock halogen projector for a legit HID/LED projector. Requires baking/opening the headlight. This will give you the output of the HIDs without the worry of glare and the general output will be way more uniform vs HIDs in the stock halogen projectors. This one is a ton of work - not for the faint of heart.

Morimoto XB LED Headlights - The most expensive option. Output should be better than stock but won't be as bright as HIDs. The biggest complaint by far with these is that the side cut off is very sharp. Running fogs seems to resolve/lessen the impact of the issue.

Note - Driving in the city/rain/fog/snow, whitish-yellow (4300K) light will provide the most visibility.

 

[mordotz]

I ended up going with the Morimoto XB headlights. My requirements were: pure white lights, match OEM LED fog lights, better than stock.

H9 and high performance H11 were out from the start since I was looking for pure white. I didn't want to go with HIDs in the stock halogen projector due to the possibility of excessive glare. Although I retrofitted my previous car, I didn't want to take the time/effort to retrofit.

Which left LEDs or Morimoto XB headlights. Pricing it out with BF sales, LEDs were around $250 for Morimoto/XD low and highs. Morimoto XB headlights were on sale for $925. With the discounted price and IMO the improvement in looks, I chose the Morimoto XBs. Plan is to run the OEM LED fogs to offset the sharp side cutoffs of the XBs.

 

[mynameistory]

[MENTION=208721]mynameistory[/MENTION]
Wasn’t trying to offend, and I don’t think you took it that way.
Yep, had true conversions in previous vehicles. Aware the only true and correct way to upgrade to HID or LED’s is not to performs a bulb swap.
Now there are quality assembly’s available with HID’s and/or LED’s.
Both true assembly replacements are expensive
A lot of people want to throw a 6.00 LED in and expect that to work.... it just will not.

Yes I agree!

I swear any lighting related thread on this forum brings out the worst in people. Let's all be happy, there's a counter argument to every option out there.



I've done quite a bit of research over the last couple weeks. I've listed the options as I know them below..

HIDs (in stock housing) - This will hands down get you the most light output for the money. This is also a controversial option as you're putting HIDs in a halogen projector. There's a 50/50 split on people who say this will cause excessive glare vs people who don't. Various color temps available

LEDs - Based off of my research, it seems like if you buy a higher quality LED kit such as the Morimoto/Supernova/XD, they will provide an output slightly better than stock. Note that kits such as the Morimoto and Supernova come with fans on the unit which will produce noise. Cooler color temps available to get rid of the stock halogen whitish-yellow.

H9 - Honestly, if you don't want to piss off anyone in this thread, go with this option. lol Requires a small modification to the bulb. Double the stock output for $15, but keep in mind that H9s run at 65W vs 55W which means it will run hotter with more power on the stock wiring harness. The consensus is that the extra heat and power should be ok. Whitish-yellow output.

High Performance H11 - This is an option I don't frequently see on this forum but see a lot on the Tacoma forum. GE Megalight Ultra H11 - double the stock output, direct replacement, $30-40. Note that these bulbs have a short lifespan. Whitish-yellow output.

Retrofit HIDs/LEDs - Swap out the stock halogen projector for a legit HID/LED projector. Requires baking/opening the headlight. This will give you the output of the HIDs without the worry of glare and the general output will be way more uniform vs HIDs in the stock halogen projectors. This one is a ton of work - not for the faint of heart.

Morimoto XB LED Headlights - The most expensive option. Output should be better than stock but won't be as bright as HIDs. The biggest complaint by far with these is that the side cut off is very sharp. Running fogs seems to resolve/lessen the impact of the issue.

Note - Driving in the city/rain/fog/snow, whitish-yellow (4300K) light will provide the most visibility.

This is a perfect summary!

 

[NW.OH.T4R]

I swear any lighting related thread on this forum brings out the worst in people. Let's all be happy, there's a counter argument to every option out there.



I've done quite a bit of research over the last couple weeks. I've listed the options as I know them below..

HIDs (in stock housing) - This will hands down get you the most light output for the money. This is also a controversial option as you're putting HIDs in a halogen projector. There's a 50/50 split on people who say this will cause excessive glare vs people who don't. Various color temps available

LEDs - Based off of my research, it seems like if you buy a higher quality LED kit such as the Morimoto/Supernova/XD, they will provide an output slightly better than stock. Note that kits such as the Morimoto and Supernova come with fans on the unit which will produce noise. Cooler color temps available to get rid of the stock halogen whitish-yellow.

H9 - Honestly, if you don't want to piss off anyone in this thread, go with this option. lol Requires a small modification to the bulb. Double the stock output for $15, but keep in mind that H9s run at 65W vs 55W which means it will run hotter with more power on the stock wiring harness. The consensus is that the extra heat and power should be ok. Whitish-yellow output.

High Performance H11 - This is an option I don't frequently see on this forum but see a lot on the Tacoma forum. GE Megalight Ultra H11 - double the stock output, direct replacement, $30-40. Note that these bulbs have a short lifespan. Whitish-yellow output.

Retrofit HIDs/LEDs - Swap out the stock halogen projector for a legit HID/LED projector. Requires baking/opening the headlight. This will give you the output of the HIDs without the worry of glare and the general output will be way more uniform vs HIDs in the stock halogen projectors. This one is a ton of work - not for the faint of heart.

Morimoto XB LED Headlights - The most expensive option. Output should be better than stock but won't be as bright as HIDs. The biggest complaint by far with these is that the side cut off is very sharp. Running fogs seems to resolve/lessen the impact of the issue.

Note - Driving in the city/rain/fog/snow, whitish-yellow (4300K) light will provide the most visibility.

I'm going the retrofit path - Lexus IS250 bi-Xenon HID projectors, but dropped in Morimoto LEDs for low beam and the 9011 high beams in the interim. I agree with your comment about being a lot of work, but it's work that can be done at your leisure in the comforts of inside your home (if you have a donor set of headlights). I also find it extremely enjoyable and rewarding to build your own custom set.

Bonus - all in, I'm at about $500 including the donor set of headlights.

 

[John in NC]

This is for anybody that has aftermarket headlights, fogs, light bars- whatever. If you have your lights on and oncoming drivers are flashing you, you're a problem. Even if it's just one person per week flashing you- know that dozens of others are being blinded and are either not fast enough or don't have the balls to flash you.

Your safety being a priority damn the rest of us? Lame. Yeah I care about my wife and kids too, but I'm not going to put blinding bulbs in just so I can light up the night, screw oncoming traffic or those in front of me.

If your mega bright high intensity retrofit headlights are aimed right and NOBODY flashes you, thanks for making an effort to not blind people. Cresting hills and coming around corners though, I bet you still cause issues.

 

[NW.OH.T4R]

This is for anybody that has aftermarket headlights, fogs, light bars- whatever. If you have your lights on and oncoming drivers are flashing you, you're a problem. Even if it's just one person per week flashing you- know that dozens of others are being blinded and are either not fast enough or don't have the balls to flash you.

Your safety being a priority damn the rest of us? Lame. Yeah I care about my wife and kids too, but I'm not going to put blinding bulbs in just so I can light up the night, screw oncoming traffic or those in front of me.

If your mega bright high intensity retrofit headlights are aimed right and NOBODY flashes you, thanks for making an effort to not blind people. Cresting hills and coming around corners though, I bet you still cause issues.

I was with you until your last sentence. Simply because this applies to literally any vehicle in that situation. There's a windy road with several small "hills" (elongated bumps) that I travel every evening after picking up the kid at daycare. I can hit with low beams from small sedans constantly on these hills and they create instantaneous problems.
That said, I get blinded regularly by HD trucks with HIDs in reflector housings and it annoys the hell out of me.