Consolidated Lighting Info Thread

Hello, I couldn't find an answer to this using multiple searches...anyone here replace their side marker lights with LEDs? Seems like a hard bulb to reach, but I am interested in replacing it to match the other LEDs in my headlights.

It seems like LasFit and Diode Dynamics sell a bulb for this specific application. Just wondering if anyone has actually done it. Will I run into any issues with these lights being constantly on? LasFit claims its lights have built-in CANBUS to prevent hyperflash.

Thanks!
 
I've been using the LASFIT switchback LEDs in my turn signals for over a month now, and i've had zero issues with them. the white DRL matches the color of my low beams, and I've had no hyper flash.
 
Hello, I couldn't find an answer to this using multiple searches...anyone here replace their side marker lights with LEDs? Seems like a hard bulb to reach, but I am interested in replacing it to match the other LEDs in my headlights.

It seems like LasFit and Diode Dynamics sell a bulb for this specific application. Just wondering if anyone has actually done it. Will I run into any issues with these lights being constantly on? LasFit claims its lights have built-in CANBUS to prevent hyperflash.

Thanks!

I need to look into these for my retrofit, which has taken the back seat to other things. I swapped the amber side marker covers to smoked, so I'll have to do with an amber replacement.
 
Hello, I couldn't find an answer to this using multiple searches...anyone here replace their side marker lights with LEDs? Seems like a hard bulb to reach, but I am interested in replacing it to match the other LEDs in my headlights.

It seems like LasFit and Diode Dynamics sell a bulb for this specific application. Just wondering if anyone has actually done it. Will I run into any issues with these lights being constantly on? LasFit claims its lights have built-in CANBUS to prevent hyperflash.

Thanks!
Gee. I wonder how they do that..... Perhaps they don't understand what CAN-BUS is....
 
Hello, I couldn't find an answer to this using multiple searches...anyone here replace their side marker lights with LEDs? Seems like a hard bulb to reach, but I am interested in replacing it to match the other LEDs in my headlights.

It seems like LasFit and Diode Dynamics sell a bulb for this specific application. Just wondering if anyone has actually done it. Will I run into any issues with these lights being constantly on? LasFit claims its lights have built-in CANBUS to prevent hyperflash.

Thanks!

I used the LASFIT amber side marker LEDs. They work well, very bright.

194 168 2825 Amber CANBUS Error Free Side Marker Turn Signal Light - Lasfit Auto Lighting

I’ve had no problem with them being constantly ON, in contrast with the characteristic of their high power turn signal bulbs, which I also have installed.

What a lot of LED bulb manufacturers call “CANBUS compatible” is simply a resistor across the power leads in order to simulate the presence of an incandescent filament. This resistor has to be of low enough value to be sensed but as high a value to minimize power dissipation. Due to package size limitations the resistor is very small = doesn’t dissipate heat well. So they include some heat sinking aluminum, and from I can tell, a tiny thermo switch that opens up when it gets too hot. This takes the resistor out of the circuit, the LEDs look like an open circuit to the system, and you get the hyper flashing of the turn signals. After you power them down for a little while the switch closes, the resistor is back in the circuit, and all is well again.
This hyper flash does not occur on the side marker LED bulbs.

The installation is just a little tricky. You have to undo some clips on the wheel well plastic and reach your arm way up. Wear long sleeves. The details of how to do this are in your 4R owner manual.
 
I used the LASFIT amber side marker LEDs. They work well, very bright.

194 168 2825 Amber CANBUS Error Free Side Marker Turn Signal Light - Lasfit Auto Lighting

I’ve had no problem with them being constantly ON, in contrast with the characteristic of their high power turn signal bulbs, which I also have installed.

What a lot of LED bulb manufacturers call “CANBUS compatible” is simply a resistor across the power leads in order to simulate the presence of an incandescent filament. This resistor has to be of low enough value to be sensed but as high a value to minimize power dissipation. Due to package size limitations the resistor is very small = doesn’t dissipate heat well. So they include some heat sinking aluminum, and from I can tell, a tiny thermo switch that opens up when it gets too hot. This takes the resistor out of the circuit, the LEDs look like an open circuit to the system, and you get the hyper flashing of the turn signals. After you power them down for a little while the switch closes, the resistor is back in the circuit, and all is well again.
This hyper flash does not occur on the side marker LED bulbs.

The installation is just a little tricky. You have to undo some clips on the wheel well plastic and reach your arm way up. Wear long sleeves. The details of how to do this are in your 4R owner manual.

Correct - and had they said that then it would have been a correct statement, but to say it has "CANBUS built in" is patently ridiculous. They also admit that it causes hyperflashing on Mercedes Benz, so this must be some sort of hokey workaround.
 
Correct - and had they said that then it would have been a correct statement, but to say it has "CANBUS built in" is patently ridiculous. They also admit that it causes hyperflashing on Mercedes Benz, so this must be some sort of hokey workaround.

Yep. Marketing hype. But it’s a legitimate solution to get around the simple old style thermo flasher units in cars that use incandescent bulbs.

But it doesn’t always work for Mercedes and sometimes VW. Usually in some older vehicles.

Germany used to have their own standard for automobile bulbs, but now they mostly go by international (ECE) regulations.

I was googling around Mercedes forums. The fast flash problem occurs sometimes in old cars even with incandescent bulbs of different wattage, that is, ones that draw slightly less current. Apparently the Mercedes flasher relay unit needs to operate with a good slug of current to heat up the thermal spring and be happy. Probably designed around the typical current draw of those good old German bulbs that drew more current. You put in a standard but non-German bulb that draws a little less current, or an LED that draws a lot less current, and you get hyperflash.
 
Assume price is no limit.

What are the best LED reverse bulbs that you can buy for our trucks? I know that the brake as turn mod is preferred, but humor me.

Bright light, no codes, no issues. There will be a resistor on the line, I think.

What bulbs do I go with?
 
Assume price is no limit.

What are the best LED reverse bulbs that you can buy for our trucks? I know that the brake as turn mod is preferred, but humor me.

Bright light, no codes, no issues. There will be a resistor on the line, I think.

What bulbs do I go with?

You’re probably gonna get a lot of opinions, but here’s mine.
LASFIT 921 912 CANBUS Error Free White LED Reverse Back Up Light Bulb - Upgraded Version

921 912 White LED Bulbs CANBUS Error Free For Reverse Back Up Light - Lasfit Auto Lighting

Even though the 5th Gen reverse light housing beam pattern isn’t the best with any bulb, I’ve found these Lasfit bulbs work really well. Great warranty, 45 day trial period,

They’re so bright because they seem to be driven hard and even with aluminum heat sinking they can get hot if operated continuously for a long time. I once found a note on their website saying if they’re on continuously for 10 minutes or so the thermal switch opens until it cools down again, although I can’t find that note anymore.

Once again, advertised as CANBUS-compatible which is not correct but it generally means there is a series resistor across the power lines so any bulb-out sensing circuitry in your car will see some current flowing and not flag an error.

One tip for this and any bulb you put in that is longer and heavier than the stock part:
First, insert it and determine the correct polarity for the bulb.
Remove the bulb and with a small probe bend the contact fingers together a little so they grip the bulb base better. Re-insert the bulb and make sure it works.
Apply a *small* dab of adhesive like Shoe Goo or E6000 to externally bridge the bulb base to the socket. Don’t let it run into the socket. Let it dry before reinstalling the bulb/socket assembly into the housing. This will hold it in place through the shock and vibration of your 4WD adventures.
 
You’re probably gonna get a lot of opinions, but here’s mine.
LASFIT 921 912 CANBUS Error Free White LED Reverse Back Up Light Bulb - Upgraded Version

921 912 White LED Bulbs CANBUS Error Free For Reverse Back Up Light - Lasfit Auto Lighting

Even though the 5th Gen reverse light housing beam pattern isn’t the best with any bulb, I’ve found these Lasfit bulbs work really well. Great warranty, 45 day trial period,

They’re so bright because they seem to be driven hard and even with aluminum heat sinking they can get hot if operated continuously for a long time. I once found a note on their website saying if they’re on continuously for 10 minutes or so the thermal switch opens until it cools down again, although I can’t find that note anymore.

Once again, advertised as CANBUS-compatible which is not correct but it generally means there is a series resistor across the power lines so any bulb-out sensing circuitry in your car will see some current flowing and not flag an error.

One tip for this and any bulb you put in that is longer and heavier than the stock part:
First, insert it and determine the correct polarity for the bulb.
Remove the bulb and with a small probe bend the contact fingers together a little so they grip the bulb base better. Re-insert the bulb and make sure it works.
Apply a *small* dab of adhesive like Shoe Goo or E6000 to externally bridge the bulb base to the socket. Don’t let it run into the socket. Let it dry before reinstalling the bulb/socket assembly into the housing. This will hold it in place through the shock and vibration of your 4WD adventures.


I wish there was a way to establish polarity before installing these things. I have nightmares after reading the threads about people installing the LEDs in the driver doors and such and frying the ecu.

I'll look into those bulbs
 
I wish there was a way to establish polarity before installing these things. I have nightmares after reading the threads about people installing the LEDs in the driver doors and such and frying the ecu.

I'll look into those bulbs

It’s not the polarity of the LED bulb, it’s operator error. People blindly insert them into a socket without looking at what they’re doing and they smash the + and - leads of the socket together. This sometimes destroys a driver circuit in the ECU. Look at what you’re doing. Minimize your chance of a f*** up. And disconnect the battery first, especially with the door bulbs. Power is live at that socket when the door is open.

BTW, you can determine the polarity of a 12 volt LED with a 9 volt battery.
 
You’re probably gonna get a lot of opinions, but here’s mine.
LASFIT 921 912 CANBUS Error Free White LED Reverse Back Up Light Bulb - Upgraded Version

921 912 White LED Bulbs CANBUS Error Free For Reverse Back Up Light - Lasfit Auto Lighting

Even though the 5th Gen reverse light housing beam pattern isn’t the best with any bulb, I’ve found these Lasfit bulbs work really well. Great warranty, 45 day trial period,

They’re so bright because they seem to be driven hard and even with aluminum heat sinking they can get hot if operated continuously for a long time. I once found a note on their website saying if they’re on continuously for 10 minutes or so the thermal switch opens until it cools down again, although I can’t find that note anymore.

Once again, advertised as CANBUS-compatible which is not correct but it generally means there is a series resistor across the power lines so any bulb-out sensing circuitry in your car will see some current flowing and not flag an error.

One tip for this and any bulb you put in that is longer and heavier than the stock part:
First, insert it and determine the correct polarity for the bulb.
Remove the bulb and with a small probe bend the contact fingers together a little so they grip the bulb base better. Re-insert the bulb and make sure it works.
Apply a *small* dab of adhesive like Shoe Goo or E6000 to externally bridge the bulb base to the socket. Don’t let it run into the socket. Let it dry before reinstalling the bulb/socket assembly into the housing. This will hold it in place through the shock and vibration of your 4WD adventures.

Just ordered these. I'll post up how they work.
 
Assume price is no limit.

What are the best LED reverse bulbs that you can buy for our trucks? I know that the brake as turn mod is preferred, but humor me.

Bright light, no codes, no issues. There will be a resistor on the line, I think.

What bulbs do I go with?

I recommend the Gy6.35 halogen bulbs as described in this thread here:
Gy6.35 HIR 921 reverse light upgrade (vs high power LEDs) | Tacoma World

They are not LED but they are substantially brighter. I still keep the LED ones in my glove box for spares, but you're not going to find any LED bulbs this bright.
49840086586_078408afaf_c.jpg
 
I recommend the Gy6.35 halogen bulbs as described in this thread here:
Gy6.35 HIR 921 reverse light upgrade (vs high power LEDs) | Tacoma World

They are not LED but they are substantially brighter. I still keep the LED ones in my glove box for spares, but you're not going to find any LED bulbs this bright.
49840086586_078408afaf_c.jpg

Was just complaining about the rear back up lights when I was in mammoth this past weekend. Was about to pull the trigger on a set of Baja S2s to serve as chase and reverse lights but ...I think ill go this route first. Got quite a bit of maintenance cost to deal so the cheaper alternative will do for now!
 
Was just complaining about the rear back up lights when I was in mammoth this past weekend. Was about to pull the trigger on a set of Baja S2s to serve as chase and reverse lights but ...I think ill go this route first. Got quite a bit of maintenance cost to deal so the cheaper alternative will do for now!

If you do, I recommend ordering a few spares. You will need to (carefully!) manipulate the little prongs in order to get the bulbs to lock in place. If you do it too forcefully, you will break a prong or the base of the bulb.

While the thread describes bending them in a V shape, I had better luck twisting them into a slight helical shape like DNA. One leg forward, the other backward.
 
If you do, I recommend ordering a few spares. You will need to (carefully!) manipulate the little prongs in order to get the bulbs to lock in place. If you do it too forcefully, you will break a prong or the base of the bulb.

While the thread describes bending them in a V shape, I had better luck twisting them into a slight helical shape like DNA. One leg forward, the other backward.

Ordered a third bulb...but thinking about just adjusting the socket since i dont have the steadiest hands lol

tighteningprongs_zps32cef947_a9ff4e1ac812a336aff67aedea9a3ac97367e231-jpg.2420343
 

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