Coolant Flush - DexCool in System

4RrDriver

New member
The previous owner filled my truck with DexCool, aka "death-cool". It is a 2EHA based coolant that GM uses and, although some people like it, it has a terrible reputation for eating gaskets. I want it out, and Toyota red in.

Normally, I'd drain, fill with distilled water, drive around for a while, repeat a few times (and in my case with DexCool, a few extra times) until the water is clean and refill with the good stuff. When I have used a garden hose to do this, I added a flush T on the heater core line and ran water through the cooling system until clean water overflowed out of the rad.

The problem is, I have a hard time working on the truck right now as it's well below zero and I have no work area where I could jack up the truck, remove the front wheels and open the drain cocks on the engine block. I have to be careful with straight water or it will freeze. Apparently, draining the rad alone does not get much of the coolant out.

In the interests of doing this easily, without draining the block, I'm considering draining the rad, disconnecting one of the heater hoses going to the heater core, hooking up a garden hose and letting the water run for a an hour to flush out the system. I would expect that this would result in cleaning out all of the old coolant from the system. I really want that DexCool out. Tap water is not great, but I could then flush the system with distilled water to remove whatever (minor) minerals are in my tap water, and then add new coolant.

Anyone have much experience doing this on a 4R? In theory, this should flush out the engine well, even without getting to the block drain cocks?
 
Register to hide this ad
Let me make a phone call to the master of cooling systems for you on this one. My family deals with this stuff everyday for a living at the Radiator shop. You really need pressure behind the water flow to get it all out. Also hot hot hot hot water must be used on crap cool to get it clean.

This is not a huge deal it's just a pain in the ass. Thing is too those two coolants do not mix well together.

Let me talk to dad and I'll get back to you on this one.

Blue
 
The member above already covered most of what I'd say, but I want to point out that you need Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant) also known as "Toyota Pink Coolant." The red is LLC (Long Life Coolant) with a low silicate formula while the SLLC is a non-silicate formula.
 
The member above already covered most of what I'd say, but I want to point out that you need Toyota SLLC (Super Long Life Coolant) also known as "Toyota Pink Coolant." The red is LLC (Long Life Coolant) with a low silicate formula while the SLLC is a non-silicate formula.

I'm almost cretin that Napa has it for about 23-26 dollars a gallon
 
I've found SLLC for $19 a gallon at my dealer. My manual says 10.3 liters, that'll be 3 gallons worth, leaving me enough to change the coolant on my GSX. I figure that's a good coolant for a Suzuki bike as well.

My concern is that the residual water in the system from flushing it will dilute the pre-mix SLLC somewhat. It gets to -40 in my area, so anything less than 50/50 worries me. I'd prefer 60/40. I may do the math and add some concentrate compatible with SLLC, maybe Zerex Asian or Peak Global, to ensure the final mix is strong enough. If it was SLLC in there to begin with, I'd just drain and re-fill and know that it's concentrated enough.
 
You could probably find some 60/40 SLLC if you search the net, its not usually sold anywhere but climates that get very cold; otherwise you find mostly only 50/50.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,049
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top