Couple of 3.0 auto questions

crutchy

New member
I just recently sold my 86 22re 5spd for a much nicer runner with the dreaded 3.0 auto so that I could involve the wife in some trail riding. Now that I have solved my overheating problem (PO had it full of stop leak..soo the radiator blew) and electrical issues I am starting on some issues with the idle being all over the place. It varies depending on the phase of the moon, 1200/1800/800 Also tacking it's inability to accelerate when cold (plan on replacing all vacuum lines and hoping for a fix before digging any deeper).

Once the engine is warm it pulls and revs fine. What I was hoping to find out is with the Normal and Power modes. When in Normal under full throttle it will not rev out and shifts ~3500rpm. I have been running in Power mode and it seems to drive like a normal automatic and under full throttle it will rev to about redline and shift. Is this normal or am i going to have to see how deep this rabbit hole goes too? Thanks in advance. :cheers:
 
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that is fairly normal for an auto, the biggest issue with the auto is the crap TC toyota put in them. I use a custom cut one and it livened my tranny up, normal mode will still still be sluggish but power mode will jump. I DD mine in normal but don't have to get on highway andit's fine,but switch to power if I plan to get on highway at all.

your idle issue check all your intake boots, and could possibly be your breather box has crud in it.
 
Here's a few things that helped out 3.0:
1) O2 sensor(see pic)
2) resealed injectors and housings
3) clean out throttle body
4) set the timing, or check it
5) new t-stat(old one sticking open).
2ztlwlu.jpg

regards
 
Hey '77, it would be awesome if you'd resize your pics before posting them. Every time you post a pic it makes the thread very hard to read.

I didn't know the torque converter was the culprit in the auto trans - if I ever get back in another one I'll have to try that out!
 
Thanks for the info and the gigantic pic '77 :D

I have already cleaned the TB, VAFM, air box and intake ducting. The cold start injector was pretty gunked up so I cleaned it and then sea foamed the gas. Checked cap and rotor and they are practically brand new. The thermostat was replaced during my fun with the cooling system when I replaced the radiator and a handful of hoses. I still need to toss in a new fuel filter. I found a large crack in vacuum regulator so I replaced it and it seemed like nothing changed. If I don't let it warm up it will throw 51 and 52 IIRC, the lean and rich codes, simultaneously. So I may have to replace the O2 sensor as well. I am hoping to put in a new one after replacing the exhaust.
 
idle screw o ring should be replaced because i bet it has never, any o ring that matches will work
that stop leak is bad stuff, can plug up alot of good stuff. one thing i would check is the IACV which is built in to the TB. just make sure its clean of all the stop leak if any
flush your radiator system and replace t stat as mention. if it still overheats, i would start checking your oil for water. worst case, maybe have blown HG therefore the po put stop leak

normal and power mode just means when the transmission will shift
normal just means it will shift early
power will let you rev up to redline depending on throttle

i just run mine in normal and manually down shift if i need to hold it in certain gear. since i over regeared mine due to tire size and weight. i just turn of overdrive when i need to get going uphill
 
Coolant system is fine now, but thanks for the info. It was kind of funny as I got an auto so the wife could drive it and the first time she did...well the radiator and coolant hose blew. Less than a week in the stable and already one ride home on the flat bed. Knew there was stop leak when there was copper colored sparkles where it blew. Needless to say I flushed the bejesus out of it and installed new t-stat, radiator and any hose or clamp that looked suspect to me.

I'm still building trust in this truck. Hoping to get this thing figured out and take her on the first shakedown run to Hard Rock in Ocala. Only a couple of hours followed up by some trail riding.
 
Coolant system is fine now, but thanks for the info. It was kind of funny as I got an auto so the wife could drive it and the first time she did...well the radiator and coolant hose blew. Less than a week in the stable and already one ride home on the flat bed. Knew there was stop leak when there was copper colored sparkles where it blew. Needless to say I flushed the bejesus out of it and installed new t-stat, radiator and any hose or clamp that looked suspect to me.

I'm still building trust in this truck. Hoping to get this thing figured out and take her on the first shakedown run to Hard Rock in Ocala. Only a couple of hours followed up by some trail riding.

ahh, kinda read your post to quick and it does say you solved the heating issue. glad that is fixed. you should love the auto on the rocks. i know i do haha
 
How do you get this custom cut TC?

You can order them from most race shops, make sure they know what there doing or your truck will be worse off than before. I get all of mine from Edge racing and use only Alto tranny parts. If you do any performance work to your engine you will need to know an estimate of power increase along with other mods(axles,t-case,tranny)to dial in your TC.
 

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