Couple Toytec and LR UCA questions with pics

[Addicted]

I started putting my wife's lift on last night and I have a couple questions. I took her tires and wheels to get mounted before I realized her Toytec Boss kit didn't even come with directions, so I was pretty much committed anyway. And of course they don't even have directions on the web site either. They only have directions for the Ultimate kit but I figured its probably similar so I just started wrenching anyway. So anyway, her 4Runner is a 2013 TE with KDSS ( I think that's what its called anyway ). I got the rear done without any serious issues. It was a little bit of a pain in the ass getting the sway bar mounted back up but I finally got it. So first question. Does the ass end look a little high to you guys? The springs are supposed to only give 2" of lift but I really didn't expect to see that much wheel well. Im hoping it settles a little after a while.

My next question is about the LR UCAs. I started greasing and installing the metal sleeves in the bushing and I noticed there is a groove on one end of the sleeves. I figure they are there for a reason but I couldn't find anything on line about them about how they orientate with the bushings. So does anyone know if the grooves go to the inside or the outside?

My last question is about the 17" TRD RW wheels. I didn't do enough research on the offset. Do you guys think Im going to need a wheel spacer to clear the UCAs? Im really hoping I don't or otherwise Im going to have to pay to have them over nighted to me =( By the way, tires are 285 Duratracs and I dropped off the TRD the bling rings to get PCed satin black. Anyway, that's it for know. And help or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Jtwo]

Its hard to judge the height of the rear in that pic with it on jacks. Also, not sure what the backspacing is on the wheels but I'm sure someone will chime in.

For what its worth, I was running stock wheels with the same tire and have the Toytec lift with UCA and did not have any issues.

 

[shaneotool]

I dont know anything about the UCAs, but I have seen pictures of toytec springs newly installed that look about that high. Drive around with something heavy in the back for a while..

 

[Jesse1983]

here is mine the day I installed the lift and before I put 285's on

 

[Addicted]

Ok thanks guys. Im just going to throw the arms on in a minute and see how it goes. I couldn't get an answer from the tech at Light Racing either. But he did say it doesn't matter how the grooves on the sleeves orientate with the bushings. Wish me luck. I'll post up pictures when I finish this afternoon.

 

[Jesse1983]

I couldn't get an answer from the tech at Light Racing either. But he did say it doesn't matter how the grooves on the sleeves orientate with the bushings.

because either way they will eventually snap!

 

[Addicted]

Its hard to judge the height of the rear in that pic with it on jacks. Also, not sure what the backspacing is on the wheels but I'm sure someone will chime in.

For what its worth, I was running stock wheels with the same tire and have the Toytec lift with UCA and did not have any issues.

Did you have any rubbing to address?

 

[Jtwo]

Did you have any rubbing to address?

I did have some rubbing, moved the fender liners in a little and still get a little when in reverse full lock. I am going to use a heat gun next....

 

[Addicted]

because either way they will eventually snap!

I don't know how that pertains to the question of wheel offset and clearance but thanks for your input. lol. In any case, I kinda doubt she'll have an issues. Its a daily driver and she wont be doing any rock crawling or hard core wheeling. Not to mention, they fixed the problem with the bushing. In any case, the LR arms are stronger than the cheap stamped stock UCAs and they use ball joints and they have a ton of adjustability, so that's really all I care about. When you beat on your truck, stuff can break. It happens. If I was building her a dedicated trail truck then I would get her some Icons or Camburgs. But Im pretty confident the LR UCAs will hold up just fine for what she'll be using the truck for.

 

[Addicted]

I did have some rubbing, moved the fender liners in a little and still get a little when in reverse full lock. I am going to use a heat gun next....

Cool. Thank you.

 

[thebwlife]

Those rear springs will give 3" of lift until broken in. Mine are just now settled. That's about 6k miles in. Mine settled best after going and flexing and stuffing the rear a few times on the trail. They really look settled down now.

 

[Addicted]

Those rear springs will give 3" of lift until broken in. Mine are just now settled. That's about 6k miles in. Mine settled best after going and flexing and stuffing the rear a few times on the trail. They really look settled down now.

Awesome. Thank you.

 

[Addicted]

Anybody know what the torque spec is for the long bolt that goes through the frame mount and bushings? It says torque to factory specs but I don't have the shop manual and my computer key board is already greasy enough from wrenching and then running inside to search for info. I guess it would be too difficult to just post it in the directions. lol. Oh and that bolt is really fun when you don't have an extra set of hands.

 

[mfregeau20]

Anybody know what the torque spec is for the long bolt that goes through the frame mount and bushings? It says torque to factory specs but I don't have the shop manual and my computer key board is already greasy enough from wrenching and then running inside to search for info. I guess it would be too difficult to just post it in the directions. lol. Oh and that bolt is really fun when you don't have an extra set of hands.

If only there was a thread for that?

I got you!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/152966-torque-spec-help.html

was a very use full thread when I installed my lift so I had it saved to favorites for that day. :amen:

 

[Addicted]

If only there was a thread for that?

I got you!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/152966-torque-spec-help.html

was a very use full thread when I installed my lift so I had it saved to favorites for that day. :amen:

Thanks man! You rock! Well it "looks" like I'll be ok with the clearance between the UCA and the tire. Its REALLY close right now but my camber is way off. The tire is angled in at the top so Im about to run to the store and grab a socket so I can get it close for the drive to the alignment shop tomorrow. Here's a couple pics.

 

[keeganxt]

Should be great for handling! Bad for tire wear...

 

[Addicted]

Should be great for handling! Bad for tire wear...

Lol. Right? I think I'll go ahead and straighten it out. =)

 

[jbstrd]

Lol. Right? I think I'll go ahead and straighten it out. =)

What setting did you put the LR UCAs on? Most people install on the "D" setting with the nut all the way towards the outside of the vehicle. In your pic, it does not look like the adjustment nut is installed this way. That would adjust your camber a little better.

 

[Addicted]

What setting did you put the LR UCAs on? Most people install on the "D" setting with the nut all the way towards the outside of the vehicle. In your pic, it does not look like the adjustment nut is installed this way. That would adjust your camber a little better.

I have it on the "D" setting for caster but there is also a slot for adjusting camber. That's why I needed the socket. In the picture the nut was tightened with the nut slid all the way in. That's why the wheel was angled out. I got the socket and slid the nut all the way out and it looks better now. Its probably actually angled out at the top now just a little bit but Im not going to waste time messing with it right now. I'll just let the alignment shop fine tune it.

 

[jbstrd]

I have it on the "D" setting for caster but there is also a slot for adjusting camber. That's why I needed the socket. In the picture the nut was tightened with the nut slid all the way in. That's why the wheel was angled out. I got the socket and slid the nut all the way out and it looks better now. Its probably actually angled out at the top now just a little bit but Im not going to waste time messing with it right now. I'll just let the alignment shop fine tune it.

Sounds like you are on the right track. The alignment shop should have no problems getting it within spec. If you are going to run 285's I would have the shop set the caster to +4 degrees.