Crank and Cam Seals Replacement Question

[kishanSR5]

So I'm going to tackle the timing belt/water pump replacement probably this weekend. I ordered up a kit off ebay for all the OEM Genuine Toyota replacement parts and it comes with new cam seals and a new crank seal. I don't think either of my seals are bad on my motor but since the kit comes with it I might as well since I have everything apart. I don't think I'm too worried about the crank seal although some advice on the removal of the crank sprocket would be appreciated. I was reading the Hane's repair manual and it said that in order to remove the cam sprockets, the valve covers need to be removed and you have to place a wrench on the "hex" shaped part of the camshaft and then loosen the bolt holding the cam sprocket to the camshaft. Is there a way to change them without pulling the valve covers or is it unavoidable? Can anyone that has done this before shed some light on this subject.
Thanks

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

So I'm going to tackle the timing belt/water pump replacement probably this weekend. I ordered up a kit off ebay for all the OEM Genuine Toyota replacement parts and it comes with new cam seals and a new crank seal. I don't think either of my seals are bad on my motor but since the kit comes with it I might as well since I have everything apart. I don't think I'm too worried about the crank seal although some advice on the removal of the crank sprocket would be appreciated. I was reading the Hane's repair manual and it said that in order to remove the cam sprockets, the valve covers need to be removed and you have to place a wrench on the "hex" shaped part of the camshaft and then loosen the bolt holding the cam sprocket to the camshaft. Is there a way to change them without pulling the valve covers or is it unavoidable? Can anyone that has done this before shed some light on this subject.
Thanks

I didn't remove mine. If you have an impact gun, that may get it off. If you don't have one or you do but it still wont come off, a large strap wrench around the pulley or a chain wrench with a piece of your old timing belt to protect the pulley splines.
As far as the crank sprocket, the hardest part is getting the harmonic balancer off. Plenty of info on this forum for accomplishing that task. Once that is off, hopefully the timing belt gear wont be rusted on the crankshaft. Mine came off with very little effort. May have to wedge a couple screwdrivers between the gear and the front of the motor, then tap the gear with NON- METALLIC hammer. People have easily chipped or broken the teeth off the gear. Just make sure you put it all back together the same way it came off specifically making sure the belt guide "washer" is positioned with the taper facing outward. I also didn't replace my crankshaft bolt, which the FSM recommends, so set the proper torque ( 205 ft lbs? double check that spec) and put some blue Loctite on the bolt.
With all three of the seals, just dig the out from the INSIDE, taking care not to scratch or damage the bores they go into. They also sell a seal puller which does a good job. Lastly, go slow and easy when pressing in the new seals to make sure they go in evenly and all the way. An appropriately sized deep socket (as wide as possible so it rests on the edge of the seal) or PVC pipe works if you don't have the special seal installer tool. (Who has one of those?)
Good Luck!

 

[kishanSR5]

I didn't remove mine. If you have an impact gun, that may get it off. If you don't have one or you do but it still wont come off, a large strap wrench around the pulley or a chain wrench with a piece of your old timing belt to protect the pulley splines.
As far as the crank sprocket, the hardest part is getting the harmonic balancer off. Plenty of info on this forum for accomplishing that task. Once that is off, hopefully the timing belt gear wont be rusted on the crankshaft. Mine came off with very little effort. May have to wedge a couple screwdrivers between the gear and the front of the motor, then tap the gear with NON- METALLIC hammer. People have easily chipped or broken the teeth off the gear. Just make sure you put it all back together the same way it came off specifically making sure the belt guide "washer" is positioned with the taper facing outward. I also didn't replace my crankshaft bolt, which the FSM recommends, so set the proper torque ( 205 ft lbs? double check that spec) and put some blue Loctite on the bolt.
With all three of the seals, just dig the out from the INSIDE, taking care not to scratch or damage the bores they go into. They also sell a seal puller which does a good job. Lastly, go slow and easy when pressing in the new seals to make sure they go in evenly and all the way. An appropriately sized deep socket (as wide as possible so it rests on the edge of the seal) or PVC pipe works if you don't have the special seal installer tool. (Who has one of those?)
Good Luck!

Ah ok. Yeah I don't have an impact so that kinda makes things more difficult haha. Yeah I've seen online people use an old timing belt as a strap wrench which seems like it works pretty well. Is there a way to loosen the bolts on the cam sprockets while the old belt is still on? or is the tension not high enough?
Yeah I'm hoping that nothing is rusted on.... And yeah for the crank sprocket removal the Hane's manual says to use a couple screwdrivers and pry it forwards, hopefully that works. And yea I know its a pretty high torque rating, the manual that I have says 184 ft/lbs so I will probably go with that. And gotcha, yea I bought a craftsman seal puller for like $9 so hopefully that does its job on that. Any tips on properly setting the torque on the crank pulley bolt? I don't have any special tool to hold it in place.
Thanks for the advice I appreciate it!

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Ah ok. Yeah I don't have an impact so that kinda makes things more difficult haha. Yeah I've seen online people use an old timing belt as a strap wrench which seems like it works pretty well. Is there a way to loosen the bolts on the cam sprockets while the old belt is still on? or is the tension not high enough?
Yeah I'm hoping that nothing is rusted on.... And yeah for the crank sprocket removal the Hane's manual says to use a couple screwdrivers and pry it forwards, hopefully that works. And yea I know its a pretty high torque rating, the manual that I have says 184 ft/lbs so I will probably go with that. And gotcha, yea I bought a craftsman seal puller for like $9 so hopefully that does its job on that. Any tips on properly setting the torque on the crank pulley bolt? I don't have any special tool to hold it in place.
Thanks for the advice I appreciate it!

The belt doesn't have enough tension to hold the pulleys in place. I used the a piece of the old belt to protect the teeth of the sprocket from my large chain wrench, not as a strap wrench itself. I actually took a picture of it. I used it on the harmonic balancer too.

 

[kishanSR5]

The belt doesn't have enough tension to hold the pulleys in place. I used the a piece of the old belt to protect the teeth of the sprocket from my large chain wrench, not as a strap wrench itself. I actually took a picture of it. I used it on the harmonic balancer too.

Ah ok. Guess I need to get a chain wrench then haha. Any pics of the harmonic balancer removal?

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Ah ok. Guess I need to get a chain wrench then haha. Any pics of the harmonic balancer removal?

I used the chain wrench because I had one I use for work (I work with large pipe sometimes) That size (24") costs around $100. There might be some cheaper ones. It definitely works. There are tools especially made for harmonic balancer removal but some of the guys on here have had limited success with that tool (bent bolts, the tool itself bending)
Sorry no pics of the harmonic balancer removal, but I just put the chain wrench on the harmonic balancer just like the pic and used my HD impact gun (250 lbs torque) removed the radiator for easy access. You could just use a breaker bar and wedge the harmonic balancer removal tool or chain wrench against the frame in the engine compartment. Check out some of the write ups. Some people even bump the motor starter with a breaker bar on the crankshaft bolt wedged against the frame. I didn't have to resort to that.

 

[TheDurk]

Ah ok. Yeah I don't have an impact so that kinda makes things more difficult haha. Yeah I've seen online people use an old timing belt as a strap wrench which seems like it works pretty well. Is there a way to loosen the bolts on the cam sprockets while the old belt is still on? or is the tension not high enough?
Yeah I'm hoping that nothing is rusted on.... And yeah for the crank sprocket removal the Hane's manual says to use a couple screwdrivers and pry it forwards, hopefully that works. And yea I know its a pretty high torque rating, the manual that I have says 184 ft/lbs so I will probably go with that. And gotcha, yea I bought a craftsman seal puller for like $9 so hopefully that does its job on that. Any tips on properly setting the torque on the crank pulley bolt? I don't have any special tool to hold it in place.
Thanks for the advice I appreciate it!

For a 2002 4Runner 5VZ-FE the FSM spec torque for the crank bolt is 217 ft-lbs. See page EM-22 of 2002 FSM attached. 184 applied to some earlier years, BUT they raised it for a reason. There are several cases of these bolts coming loose due to insufficient torque and the damage that occurs is usually a new harmonic balancer, but in some cases the crank has been ruined, basically totalling the engine. I would rethink this point, if I were you.

You really need a decent tool to torque that bolt. I made one in less than 20 minutes from a 2x4 and some stove bolts. Put the bolts on the diagonal and leave plenty of wood past the hole and it won't split. It will probably work for the cams too, but I didn't try it.

As to the seals, I bought them when I did my TB at 120k but the originals looked perfect so I left them. I plan to do the TB again after another 120k and I will do the seals then no matter how they look (in 2020 or so.)

 

[LittleCaesar]

I've used this tool to break cam gear bolts: just put the pins of the tool in the cam gear openings, use a breaker bar and 17mm bolts and you should be good to go:

Amazon.com: OTC 4754 Universal Pulley Holder: Automotive

I have actually tightened down crank bolts of about 180ft pounds on other belt timed cars by sticking the pins of this tool in a cam gear and someone else torquing down the crank bolt.

 

[BamaDrewski]

So I'm going to tackle the timing belt/water pump replacement probably this weekend. I ordered up a kit off ebay for all the OEM Genuine Toyota replacement parts and it comes with new cam seals and a new crank seal. I don't think either of my seals are bad on my motor but since the kit comes with it I might as well since I have everything apart. I don't think I'm too worried about the crank seal although some advice on the removal of the crank sprocket would be appreciated. I was reading the Hane's repair manual and it said that in order to remove the cam sprockets, the valve covers need to be removed and you have to place a wrench on the "hex" shaped part of the camshaft and then loosen the bolt holding the cam sprocket to the camshaft. Is there a way to change them without pulling the valve covers or is it unavoidable? Can anyone that has done this before shed some light on this subject.
Thanks

I guess this is a "revival" of this thread. During these holidays, I am going to do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys and tensioner replacement. While in there, also the crankshaft seal and camshaft seals. I am going to take my time over a few days so that I am not totally stressed out. I purchased a pulley holder from SummitRacing (on sale for $50 including shipping)) and it looks to do the job for holding the pulleys. It's thick plate steel with two welded protrusions for the pulleys. Much less expensive than the OTC version.

Anyone have any last minute advance for all this work? I also have a 250LB torque wrench I splurged on for the crankshaft bolt. I already have the Schley tool to hold the crankshaft pulley and it has been a GODSEND in the past when I did the Timing Belt replacement.

I am doing all of this for a nice long road trip out to Colorado in January or February of 2017. I am also building the gear/sleeping platform as well.

 

[kball]

I guess this is a "revival" of this thread. During these holidays, I am going to do the timing belt, water pump, pulleys and tensioner replacement. While in there, also the crankshaft seal and camshaft seals. I am going to take my time over a few days so that I am not totally stressed out. I purchased a pulley holder from SummitRacing (on sale for $50 including shipping)) and it looks to do the job for holding the pulleys. It's thick plate steel with two welded protrusions for the pulleys. Much less expensive than the OTC version.

Anyone have any last minute advance for all this work? I also have a 250LB torque wrench I splurged on for the crankshaft bolt. I already have the Schley tool to hold the crankshaft pulley and it has been a GODSEND in the past when I did the Timing Belt replacement.

I am doing all of this for a nice long road trip out to Colorado in January or February of 2017. I am also building the gear/sleeping platform as well.

Here's the nwtoys thread in case you need a refresher..
https://web.archive.org/web/2016030...icle-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

and make sure you have a nice long 1/4" extension and universal sockets for the tensioner bolts so you don't have to mess with the a/c bracket.

 

[LittleCaesar]

[MENTION=25434]BamaDrewski[/MENTION],

Make sure to splurge on the Lisle seal puller. $14 off Amazon. Light coating of grease on the inner part of the new seal.

Once finished, don't forget the Lubro Moly.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

 

[BamaDrewski]

[MENTION=25434]BamaDrewski[/MENTION],

Make sure to splurge on the Lisle seal puller. $14 off Amazon. Light coating of grease on the inner part of the new seal.

Once finished, don't forget the Lubro Moly.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-58430-Shaft-Type-Puller/dp/B000FPYW4K

Hey Little Caesar. I see you are still hammering me on the "Lubro Moly". It is actually called "LiquiMoly" but hey.....old age gets us all! (LOL)

Seriously, I actually use a paint can opener to pull seals and it works like a champ! They are free when you buy paint at Home Depot!