Crank pulley removal for timing belt

I actually have an OTC 4754 but didn't need to use it to hold the dampener. The piece of wood (A grade) worked well (stole Durk's idea).

If one ever changes a water pump though on a late model American truck (96+) or do any front end work, it pays for itself the first time.
 
$70 bucks is pretty steep for a tool to do that. I've used the starter trick in the past on my friend's ford ranger after the t-belt broke on it. (non-interference motor, no risk to bend valves) Worked like a charm. On other cars I've just put a couple 1/4" or 3/8" socket extensions into the holes on the crank pulley and wedged a long screw driver or prybar between them to hold it in place while I break the bolt loose with a big breaker bar. A second set of hands helps for this but with a 3-4' piece of pipe on a breaker bar you can usually do it with just one set of hands. Making the crank tool out of some 1/8" flat bar and a couple bolts works perfect too, I've just usually been too lazy to run to the store to get the supplies. Otherwise a strap wrench can work too. Impact tools are your friend as well.

-Steve
 
I'm glad this popped up again. I bought the timing belt kit and have been putting it off because I know the crank pulley is going to be a PITA. I'm pretty busy with work right now and was considering just taking it somewhere to have it done, but with all the info on the proper tools I just decided to buy them and do it myself.

Does anyone know of a group for Amazon addicts? :ranger:
 
I'm glad this popped up again. I bought the timing belt kit and have been putting it off because I know the crank pulley is going to be a PITA. I'm pretty busy with work right now and was considering just taking it somewhere to have it done, but with all the info on the proper tools I just decided to buy them and do it myself.

Does anyone know of a group for Amazon addicts? :ranger:




The crank bolt was my biggest fear as well, but to be honest, it is probably one of the easiest parts to get off. I fought more with the AC bracket than I did with the crank bolt.
 
I'm going to send the tool my brother made to Illicitdream and he is going to pay it forward to the next guy who needs it.

I cannot imagine doing the timing belt without the tool. That bolt is on there and (at least mine which was OEM) I never would have gotten it off without the tool.

That sucker was on there and I mean tight.

IMO the biggest PITA of doing this job was all the miscellaneous shit getting to it. That and keeping the timing belt from jumping a cog when letting the belt tensioner expand. I think I did it 3 times before I got it right.

Needless to say I was done with that job forever after that weekend. I am sure if a person did a couple of these one would get better and more efficient at it, and I am very mechanically adept, but I thought it was one major pain in the ass.

And I said this in a prior thread on this topic but I'll post it here again:

There is a little curved rubber hose that comes off the oil filter cooler adapter that sits right under the exhaust manifold. It lives in a harsh environment and I am really surprised to not hear of more of them failing (which if it does you will be walking).

It's a major pain in the butt to get to if you have big hands like I do and prepare for cuts and abrasions, but at 92K miles mine was severely dry rotted and I guarantee you this is not a hose you will replace on the side of the trail because 1) Its a major deal to get to and 2) You have to source the part from Toyota. I strongly recommend you replace that little hose while doing all the other stuff around the timing belt. Cost like $8 if I recall correctly.
 
I'm glad this popped up again. I bought the timing belt kit and have been putting it off because I know the crank pulley is going to be a PITA. I'm pretty busy with work right now and was considering just taking it somewhere to have it done, but with all the info on the proper tools I just decided to buy them and do it myself.

Does anyone know of a group for Amazon addicts? :ranger:

With this write up you can't go wrong. http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-article-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

Amazon addicts? I'm a tool addict and can't get away from this site...
★★ Hot Deals ★★ - The Garage Journal Board

The crank bolt was my biggest fear as well, but to be honest, it is probably one of the easiest parts to get off. I fought more with the AC bracket than I did with the crank bolt.

With a 1/4" ratchet a long extension and a wobble socket you can get to the tensioner bolts without touching the a/c bracket.

It makes me cringe seeing ratchets being used on that crank pulley...

I used a 1/2" drive snappy ratchet to hold the damper tool in place and a 3/4" drive snappy ratchet to break the bolt loose. No issues at all. And the 1/2" drive torque wrench did fine as well.
 
When I did my TB/H20 pump change last year I was hoping to get to the tensioner without taking off the AC bracket. No matter how much ass I gave it the one PITA bolt didn't want to budge. I cussed Kevin a couple of times for making it sound so easy, then proceeded to take off the AC bracket to get to the tensioner, where a stubby, non flex, ratcheting 14mm wrench was my friend.

Tool addict here as well. The GF thinks I am nuts with all the ratchets, though the 100+ pairs of shoes in the closet doesn't exactly make her sane IMHO.
 
With this write up you can't go wrong. http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-article-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

Amazon addicts? I'm a tool addict and can't get away from this site...
★★ Hot Deals ★★ - The Garage Journal Board



With a 1/4" ratchet a long extension and a wobble socket you can get to the tensioner bolts without touching the a/c bracket.



I used a 1/2" drive snappy ratchet to hold the damper tool in place and a 3/4" drive snappy ratchet to break the bolt loose. No issues at all. And the 1/2" drive torque wrench did fine as well.



I've got a 1/4" ratchet, extensions, and swivel and I guess didn't spend enough time with it to figure out how to make it work. Stubby ratchet or gear wrenches makes the AC bracket easier, neither of which I had on hand at the time...


And I just hate using a ratchet of any size in a role that a breaker bar is better suited for. Broke a few too many back in my younger years of not knowing any better...
 
Here is the one I made for less than $15 from home depot. Used a 36" long bar of steel and chopped it into 9" and 27" pieces, then drilled some holes. Have the long bolts for the crank pulley and the shorter ones with nylon sleeves for the cam pulleys. Worked very easily and am using it again this weekend to help a buddy with his TB. Would highly recommend making your own, I have the Schley tool for the 1uz and it was not cheap and works no better... actually my custom tool works better. Not the best pics but you get the idea.

What type of nylon sleeves are those? Do you know what your drilled hole spacing was?
 

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