Crazy theory with my brakes

[JayRolla]

I agree with this wholeheartedly. You need to learn to use "Engine Braking". Many people who own vehicles with automatic transmissions don't know they can shift their transmission like a manual and use lower gears to slow them down. Your first downshift is taking off overdrive. The next downshift is shifting down to 2nd. If you are on a particularly steep hill and want to creep down it, you can even use 1st.

You wouldn't want to switch off overdrive until your going 65 mph or less. If I'm remembering correctly, you could downshift into 2nd when you hit around 40-45 mph. For 1st gear, you need to be going pretty slow, 20 mph or less. You just don't want to be over-revving your engine. Pay attention to your tachometer when using this technique.

Once you learn this, you will probably never overheat your brakes again unless you happen to be towing a heavy load down a steep grade and the descent is very very long.

The transmission will only down shift once it's at a safe rpm. So you can down shift without worrying about rpm.

 

[JayRolla]

Why is the broken ABS a good thing? I would like to replace the sensor in the future. We lots of gravel roads where ABS would come in handy.

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Your drIrving a very dangerous vehicle. That thing should not be on the road.

 

[mtbtim]

The transmission will only down shift once it's at a safe rpm. So you can down shift without worrying about rpm.

What's safe? 4000 rpms? All I know, I don't think I will try this out with my rig. If I'm going 65mph, I'm not going to shift into 2nd thinking my trans will only make the shift when it gets to a safe rpm. That sounds pretty risky so I'll just stick to knowing about what speeds I can downshift to the next lowest gear without over-revving my engine.

 

[JayRolla]

What's safe? 4000 rpms? All I know, I don't think I will try this out with my rig. If I'm going 65mph, I'm not going to shift into 2nd thinking my trans will only make the shift when it gets to a safe rpm. That sounds pretty risky so I'll just stick to knowing about what speeds I can downshift to the next lowest gear without over-revving my engine.

All autos have this feature. You can't over rev. The trans won't let you. Toyota was smart enough to stop idiots over revving and causing damage people would try to warranty. There is no reason to worry when down shifting. Toyota idiot proofed it.

 

[Cree]

Your drIrving a very dangerous vehicle. That thing should not be on the road.

Sadly, I've seen worse. Hell, I've DRIVEN worse.

OP, you should stop pushing your luck. You have no rear brakes, no ABS and you lost the peddle. Change out the master, make sure you're getting fluid to all 4 corners. That's the first thing. Secondly, if your rear shoes were wet at all when you changed seals, those need to be replaced.

The ABS not working isn't the WORST thing. Some will tell you it's garbage on a 3rd gen and not worth fixing. I'd disagree, but you might not. I'd fix it if you even think you might need it.

Also, use a lower gear going down the kind of grade.

 

[mtbtim]

All autos have this feature. You can't over rev. The trans won't let you. Toyota was smart enough to stop idiots over revving and causing damage people would try to warranty. There is no reason to worry when down shifting. Toyota idiot proofed it.

I'll trust you know what you're talking about. But, what is the accepted rpms the trans will take the engine to? I've seen some pretty high rpms on auto transmission equipped vehicles laying into the gas pedal causing the trans to kick down.

Anyway, I reckon I'll stick with what I know and won't expect the idiot-proofing the engineers built into the transmissions to do the thinking for me.

 

[ZionXIX]

Honestly guys my brakes are normal for the island standards. I don't like it that way and I am going to fix them. I watched a class mate buy a car and test drive out to the Peninsula which requires some tall incline travel and she said it drove great. She had no brake pads. The pistons where making contact with the rotor and she refused to accept what we were telling her. Lots of good info from this post though.

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[JayRolla]

I'll trust you know what you're talking about. But, what is the accepted rpms the trans will take the engine to? I've seen some pretty high rpms on auto transmission equipped vehicles laying into the gas pedal causing the trans to kick down.

Anyway, I reckon I'll stick with what I know and won't expect the idiot-proofing the engineers built into the transmissions to do the thinking for me.

You can take most motors and trans 1-3k rpms past the red line. The redline is not the end all RPM the motor can take.

I have taken my stock 4 banger to 9k rpms many times and its redline is 7k.

 

[frodiesel]

I towed a mx6 off a mountian in vermont with a mazda 626 turbo with a custom hitch. It was a 5speed but the only way i made it down the snowy passes with so much weight was by allowing the brakes to cool between pumps, and forcing the engine to rev way up while in a low gear.
I really shouldn't have done this tow, but it worked out and she towed perfect across new york back to michigan.
At least you didnt start this thread with "sup dudes" but yeah, you're crazy.

Good info here in this thread. I would be willing to be someone may have disabled the rear brakes on your rig.

 

[Cree]

Honestly guys my brakes are normal for the island standards. I don't like it that way and I am going to fix them. I watched a class mate buy a car and test drive out to the Peninsula which requires some tall incline travel and she said it drove great. She had no brake pads. The pistons where making contact with the rotor and she refused to accept what we were telling her. Lots of good info from this post though.

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Well hey, it's all good them. Good luck!

 

[poleclimber63]

I know the fluid was changed out before I purchased it so maybe it's 2 years old. When I test drove and felt the soft pedal I immediately blamed the master cylinder since the guy said he had the fluid changed out. I bought a cheap Duralast master cylinder as a backup if the OEM one ever failed suddenly. The down hill experience was the only time I have ever felt brake fade.

I'm pretty sure I have no rear brakes. When I changed one of my axel seals I could not get any brake fluid out of the rear lines. I also have no ABS since the right front sensor wire has been severed.

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Holy Crap! No rears and no ABS and a possibly bad master cylinder! That is a dangerous situation and a recipe for disaster! When I read your initial post, the first thing that popped into my head was you have air in the lines and you've overheated your brakes. If your rears aren't functioning--- then yes you did this and experienced brake fade. With your following posts, I believe you may have a failing MC and air in the lines, but, with the fact that, your ABS isn't serviceable AND you weren't able to bleed the rears, could indicate other issues.

I agree with most of the replies, especially JayRolla, as he is one of the most experienced and respected members contributing to this forum.

I have driven on St Kitts and St Thomas and I remember some narrow twisty steep roads! Also, I live in a mountain valley and drive up and down mountains for skiing and lots of fun. I always gear down when I descend, and I wouldn't dream of doing this without rear brakes! I also tow a 3700lbs ski boat in the Summer, and with this, I did the Tundra Brake upgrade. It's common knowledge our front brakes are minimally sized for the weight of our trucks and undersized for towing. The biggest advantage to the TBU, are that the rotors are significantly thicker and heavier than stock. They will provide more stopping power and with the added mass, handle the heating effects better.

With all this said, if I was you, PARK IT! Repair the damaged ABS line, Bleed the brakes (You've boiled the fluid so it should be changed)
and investigate why you can't seem to bleed the rears. ie. bad abs pump...?? if not, MC??? Ensure the rears are functional. You've also fried the front pads... Maybe consider the Tundra brake upgrade? I know that getting parts shipped is a real pain and expensive, but its really a question of safety--- namely yours! Good luck and safety driving!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html

 

[St Runner]

Little bit of over reacting here. First of all the speeds in the islands are much slower than in the states, speed limit on St John is 20 mph and I rarely go faster than 35. I am sure St Kitts is the same way, so you can always downshift into second then first. Crappy cars are a way of life in the islands but fatalities are quite rare as long as you wear you seatbelt. Most people die from driving over the edge with no seatbelt, almost everything else is a fender bender. Dont worry about the ABS for now, it works best at higher speeds and slippery conditions which we dont have in the islands. The most important thing is to get your rear brakes working as well as possible

 

[phattyduck]

I'm surprised people haven't commented more on how to actually use the brakes...

As in, you shouldn't just have your foot constantly on the brake going down a hill. Press them, release them, press them, release. If the pads/shoes are constantly on the discs/drums, it overheats the pads and fluid much faster, leading to earlier brake fade that you otherwise would have.

1-2 minutes constantly on the brakes can easily boil the fluid, like others have mentioned. Older brake fluid is more likely to boil, as it has absorbed water - especially in moist locations like the tropics!

-Charlie