SantaCruzRunner
Senior Member
check out what i found:
2007 Toyota 4Runner - Great Condition
2007 Toyota 4Runner - Great Condition
Crazydubman's 97 limited runner build
- Thread starter crazydubman
- Start date
crazydubman
New member
Very nice. They will get that price too
SantaCruzRunner
Senior Member
yeah those miles are great. i really wish i had a 4th gen..
crazydubman
New member
Ya my 06 has 89k on it.
crazydubman
New member
Man it sure is tight up front...
Looks like everything fits as good as it can haha :surfer:
Looks like everything fits as good as it can haha :surfer:
crazydubman
New member
A few more from Hollister to show off the Addicted Offroad rear.
Im lovin how this runner is turning out so far.
Im lovin how this runner is turning out so far.
BigFishAllDay
New member
So am I! It looks mean w/that low, wide stance. And every time I see a truck w/a nice tube bumper setup, they grow on me just a little bit more.
BTW, your writeup on the fender well clearancing was really interesting. It was cool to see a new take on it, and I bookmarked it to help generate ideas for myself in the future. Good work.
crazydubman
New member
Thanks BigFish. Not the greatest writeup or approach but it was the only way I saw to get more clearance without lift or Glass fenders and still keeing it look factory. I wanted to keep it as inexpensive as possible so I wasn't spending anything that wasn't needed before the 1 ton swap. So far im only into the suspension about 130 bucks. Will be using the factory rear shocks off my 06 to give another 1.5-2" travel to the rear. (Specs dictate same travel numbers as the extended travel Bilstein 5100's for the 3rd gen) I should have enough tension on the springs still with the Daystar spacers back there.
So far on the last trip, there was no rubbing at all on the fenders or flairs in the front so I think the approach worked for what it was intended to do.
The rear is another story. I stuffed enough to pull down the pinched fender lip by the door. I rolled it up once but I guess not far enough. It looks like now that the bumper is not in the way it just stuffed it that much more. Probably happened in the picture in my avatar. It was flexin great there and the sidewall wadding up like that was awesome.
Still need to get the rear of the flair by the bumper clearanced as well as its still rubbing on that last fender lip mount. I wish it was as easy as the front. I may look into cutting out the flair and hammering up that lip to get the clearance I need. I'm also planning on limiting the rear stuff an inch with 1" bump stop extensions. Should limit just enough to not have any more issues.
Not too worried with having to modify the sheetmetal but want it to look as clean as possible with out having to do anything thats not needed.
So far on the last trip, there was no rubbing at all on the fenders or flairs in the front so I think the approach worked for what it was intended to do.
The rear is another story. I stuffed enough to pull down the pinched fender lip by the door. I rolled it up once but I guess not far enough. It looks like now that the bumper is not in the way it just stuffed it that much more. Probably happened in the picture in my avatar. It was flexin great there and the sidewall wadding up like that was awesome.
Still need to get the rear of the flair by the bumper clearanced as well as its still rubbing on that last fender lip mount. I wish it was as easy as the front. I may look into cutting out the flair and hammering up that lip to get the clearance I need. I'm also planning on limiting the rear stuff an inch with 1" bump stop extensions. Should limit just enough to not have any more issues.
Not too worried with having to modify the sheetmetal but want it to look as clean as possible with out having to do anything thats not needed.
crazydubman
New member
Got the factory 06 shocks in the rear finally. Should give another 1.5" droop.
Had to drill out the upper mount hole to about 15/16" to have the 06 shock mount seat properly. All in all the install was pretty painless. Dampening seems about the same so no change in ride quality.
One thing that bummed me out what that I thought the 06 springs would also be doable seeing as 2nd gen guys have run the FJ rear springs with good luck and have gained 1.5" over stock in height. But alas... the overall diameter of the upper and lower coil on the 06 springs is about 1/2" larger and the spring actually is about 1" shorter than the 97's factory springs. (spring rates were probably stiffer but without the ability to seat properly it wasn't worth the risk)
Oh well. At least I will be able to get more droop out of the setup now which was ultimately what I wanted.
Pulling the factory 06 front swaybar endlinks today off the swaybar in storage and getting them installed on the 97 rear along with 1" bump stop spacers to help with rear rub. They sit about 3/4" longer than the factory 97 links. Not a huge difference but should help to allow the rear to droop a little more to keep the tires on the ground longer.
Still need to get the steering rack bushings installed but its coming slowly. Really trying to get all of it taken care of before the post pismo hollister trip on the 17th.
Had to drill out the upper mount hole to about 15/16" to have the 06 shock mount seat properly. All in all the install was pretty painless. Dampening seems about the same so no change in ride quality.
One thing that bummed me out what that I thought the 06 springs would also be doable seeing as 2nd gen guys have run the FJ rear springs with good luck and have gained 1.5" over stock in height. But alas... the overall diameter of the upper and lower coil on the 06 springs is about 1/2" larger and the spring actually is about 1" shorter than the 97's factory springs. (spring rates were probably stiffer but without the ability to seat properly it wasn't worth the risk)
Oh well. At least I will be able to get more droop out of the setup now which was ultimately what I wanted.
Pulling the factory 06 front swaybar endlinks today off the swaybar in storage and getting them installed on the 97 rear along with 1" bump stop spacers to help with rear rub. They sit about 3/4" longer than the factory 97 links. Not a huge difference but should help to allow the rear to droop a little more to keep the tires on the ground longer.
Still need to get the steering rack bushings installed but its coming slowly. Really trying to get all of it taken care of before the post pismo hollister trip on the 17th.
crazydubman
New member
I was able to snag a few pictures as I changed out the sway bar end links today.
The factory 06 rears are about an inch longer than the 97's but have the same mounting on each end.
Here is the before
And the after
Should help use more of the factory 06 shocks now and keep the swaybar flatter at ride height.
Need to extend the Ebrake line bracket on the housing though. Will work on that tomorrow as well as the bump stop extensions.
Enjoy.
The factory 06 rears are about an inch longer than the 97's but have the same mounting on each end.
Here is the before
And the after
Should help use more of the factory 06 shocks now and keep the swaybar flatter at ride height.
Need to extend the Ebrake line bracket on the housing though. Will work on that tomorrow as well as the bump stop extensions.
Enjoy.
mizzle415
New member
You got some balls to cut into your fenders for the clearancing, but it turned out looking really good. Nice job on that. Also good find on the 06 swaybar end links. Seems like those should work for for any lifted rear end?
Looking forward to the rest of your build. Gonna be BA.
Looking forward to the rest of your build. Gonna be BA.
crazydubman
New member
Thanks for the compliments. Im not to worried about the fenders. I will need to stuff 38's in the next year so a little cutting is not something im too worried about. The rear is what im more worried about.
:
The rear swaybar endlinks seem to be able to work with any rear yes. My understanding from "SCRunner" is that the front ones off the 97 would have worked for the rear and were longer but I tossed the front swaybar before I even got it running so I didn't have access to them. The front swaybar endlinks on the 06 are ball joints at both ends so they will not work in this application.
Clearancing and getting the full travel of the suspension cycle is essential. There is no point in lifting it 3+ inches to clear tires if you have a suspension that is so still that you can't use all the uptravel. As you can see a few posts back, I am using all of my compression available and even with the fenders and flairs cut, I still rub in 4 places. The catch is that I can't eliminate any of those spots unless I cut and weld. The good thing is that all of those rub points are flat or rounded so no need to worry about damaging the tire.
The rear on the other hand is not as simple. You can't just cut to clear as you would end up with a huge open space where the two panels come together. Then again I may look into cutting and patching in a panel in for the rear if the width of the new axles and tire size cause too much of a limit in uptravel.
:The rear swaybar endlinks seem to be able to work with any rear yes. My understanding from "SCRunner" is that the front ones off the 97 would have worked for the rear and were longer but I tossed the front swaybar before I even got it running so I didn't have access to them. The front swaybar endlinks on the 06 are ball joints at both ends so they will not work in this application.
Clearancing and getting the full travel of the suspension cycle is essential. There is no point in lifting it 3+ inches to clear tires if you have a suspension that is so still that you can't use all the uptravel. As you can see a few posts back, I am using all of my compression available and even with the fenders and flairs cut, I still rub in 4 places. The catch is that I can't eliminate any of those spots unless I cut and weld. The good thing is that all of those rub points are flat or rounded so no need to worry about damaging the tire.
The rear on the other hand is not as simple. You can't just cut to clear as you would end up with a huge open space where the two panels come together. Then again I may look into cutting and patching in a panel in for the rear if the width of the new axles and tire size cause too much of a limit in uptravel.
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Cameronswmp9
New member
A few more from Hollister to show off the Addicted Offroad rear.
Im lovin how this runner is turning out so far.
I am too, this looks awesome!!
This stance is the spacer lift? What do you have done in the rear, spacer as well? I really like the tire, wheel, and stance combo you have going here!!
crazydubman
New member
The suspension is just the top out Daystar spacer up front maybe 1.25-1.5". I didn't install the preload spacer as with my spring compressor there wasn't room to get it installed and still remove the compressor when all was said and done. The rear is the 2.5" Daystar top out spacer over worn out factory springs.
Don't get me wrong I love the 305's but there was a lot of pounding and cutting to get them to fit up front with hard wheelin with mild rubbing. I wanted to keep it as low budget as possible due to it all getting pulled at the end of next year anyways for the tons and 38's. With that said, unless you plan to do some major clearancing of the stock sheetmetal, you would want to stick with the 285's.
I guess I came into this project different than most of you. I sold my 88 that would have gotten the tons and 38's for this one because of a family coming soon after the wedding and needing something more practical. I bought the 4runner with the sole intention of cutting it up to fit the parts I have. I have no intention to keep the IFS as it is only a temporary setup till the funds are available. The 305's will probably get put on the tow vehicle down the road so it was an acceptable expense.
Don't get me wrong I love the 305's but there was a lot of pounding and cutting to get them to fit up front with hard wheelin with mild rubbing. I wanted to keep it as low budget as possible due to it all getting pulled at the end of next year anyways for the tons and 38's. With that said, unless you plan to do some major clearancing of the stock sheetmetal, you would want to stick with the 285's.
I guess I came into this project different than most of you. I sold my 88 that would have gotten the tons and 38's for this one because of a family coming soon after the wedding and needing something more practical. I bought the 4runner with the sole intention of cutting it up to fit the parts I have. I have no intention to keep the IFS as it is only a temporary setup till the funds are available. The 305's will probably get put on the tow vehicle down the road so it was an acceptable expense.
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Cameronswmp9
New member
I am in the same boat, to an extent. I am not going to be wheeling hard, at worst some fire roads and pavement pounding. I am just going for the look mainly.
I have done the hardcore wheeling, and I am like you I needed something more practical and all. I sold my crawler and over the time needing more and more practical than a 2 seater, from recently getting married and gaining 2 stepsons, my 2 seater wasnt going to work. I have bought a boat and this will tow it, but as far as the wheeling, very very little, like maybe 1%, if that.
Off the topic of trucks, congrats on the wedding coming up, and enjoy it, take time to soak it all up. Its the fastest 4-6 hours of your life!! We got married in June and it went by so fast, seemed like we missed it all!! I wouldnt change any of it for the world!!!
crazydubman
New member
Nice Cameron and thank you for the well wishes. Its an exciting time for sure. Still about 9 months off (August 23rd, 2013) but very excited to be starting the new chapter in my life.
Ya the pickup wouldn't even allow us to take our Golden Retriever Bailey with us camping for the weekend. Really liked the pickup but with what the future was showing me, I knew that it was the smart move to upgrade it now instead of moving forward with the swap and regreting taking the hit I would later on. I have no regrets whatsoever which im happy about.
Hoping it all holds together till the swap haha. I have some storage ideas for the rear cargo area that I need to move forward with soon. Just need a little time, some 1x1 square tubing, and a welder. All the military cases i have will be getting their own space along with my two coolers and sub. Really want to get it tied in with a rear cage but I don't think I will have the funds for that for a while.
Ya the pickup wouldn't even allow us to take our Golden Retriever Bailey with us camping for the weekend. Really liked the pickup but with what the future was showing me, I knew that it was the smart move to upgrade it now instead of moving forward with the swap and regreting taking the hit I would later on. I have no regrets whatsoever which im happy about.
Hoping it all holds together till the swap haha. I have some storage ideas for the rear cargo area that I need to move forward with soon. Just need a little time, some 1x1 square tubing, and a welder. All the military cases i have will be getting their own space along with my two coolers and sub. Really want to get it tied in with a rear cage but I don't think I will have the funds for that for a while.
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rickashay
New member
Great build man, I have been lurking for a while but havent said much. Just sitting back and watching the progress. Loving the 305's and the clearancing you've done without resorting to a BL. Wish I would have went 305's...
Super stoked to see this thing on big 1 tons down the road and props for being patient with the build and keeping the priorities in order. Congrats on the upcoming wedding! I'm also not too far off.... haha
Super stoked to see this thing on big 1 tons down the road and props for being patient with the build and keeping the priorities in order. Congrats on the upcoming wedding! I'm also not too far off.... haha
crazydubman
New member
Thanks Rickashay.
Ya I can still do a little more with clearancing. May look into chopping the corner out of the battery tray to give ample room as I know the 38's will pose a problem there too. I can shave the upper control arm down some and plate it over to get rid of the rubbing there. I have thought about tubbing the firwall but with the tons, I will be moving the axle far enough forward to not have the firewall be an issue. (I Hope). As far as the frame is concerned, Again with the wider stance on the tons, it will no longer be an issue.
The 305's were really the only option. I wanted 35's bad but with the inevitable breaking of CV's I figured I didn't want to chance spending anything more than needed prior. Also I didn't want the skinny 285's either.
I have always loved the look of low and wide. Guess that goes along with my history in water cooled VW's and striving for the "Euro Stance".
Ya I can still do a little more with clearancing. May look into chopping the corner out of the battery tray to give ample room as I know the 38's will pose a problem there too. I can shave the upper control arm down some and plate it over to get rid of the rubbing there. I have thought about tubbing the firwall but with the tons, I will be moving the axle far enough forward to not have the firewall be an issue. (I Hope). As far as the frame is concerned, Again with the wider stance on the tons, it will no longer be an issue.
The 305's were really the only option. I wanted 35's bad but with the inevitable breaking of CV's I figured I didn't want to chance spending anything more than needed prior. Also I didn't want the skinny 285's either.
I have always loved the look of low and wide. Guess that goes along with my history in water cooled VW's and striving for the "Euro Stance".
crazydubman
New member
a few from my past.
SantaCruzRunner
Senior Member
looooove your rim choices! type a's are boss. and the salad shooters just look mean haha i want some of those kosei's for my e30.
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