mikey's2010SR5
New member
He wheeled the 305s hard and they did very well. Now he did have to do a lot of clearancing.
Crazydubman's 97 limited runner build
- Thread starter crazydubman
- Start date
He wheeled the 305s hard and they did very well. Now he did have to do a lot of clearancing.
crazydubman
New member
I'm gonna say yes if you have to buy new tires.
I did a lot of research trying to find the widest 33 out there because that was the "look" I was going for. I chose 16's because at the time I got the runner, I was still in the mind set of swapping to 1 tons and 38's then swapping the 305's to a tow vehicle.
I have always liked low and wide so the 305's were a natural fit.
Cost wise they are more than the 285's for sure but if I had to buy again, I wouldn't go skinnier.
If you are going to the Hollister GTG on April 2nd, you can check them out and see what I needed to do to get them to fit.
Fire wall heavily chopped, inner fenders chopped and plated, gutted Limited flairs, etc. Rears have extended bumps because of the longer shocks but they swing into the fender wells nicely on articulated compression. I have full use of my suspension. Nothing is limited anywhere and can full stuff lock to lock without hitting anything.
Hope that helps. :thumb:
Granted I have 1 3/8" adapters, and no body lift.
SnowLizard
New member
Awesome Build Todd, great looking rig, and I agree, those double beadlocks really set you apart...
too bad Any7 can't be found online... FB say's they're closed. Really Liked their skid plates and mount system for them.
looking forward to some more wheeling pictures
too bad Any7 can't be found online... FB say's they're closed. Really Liked their skid plates and mount system for them.
looking forward to some more wheeling pictures
crazydubman
New member
Thanks Lizard. The beadlocks for sure are one of my favorite parts of the 4runner.
Any7 downsized and is more of a side project for Darren now. I think Adam is back being a project foreman for a construction firm. Darren got another job back in computer programming I believe and works on side projects at the shop space.
Hopefully I will be making it out to the snow this weekend to get the tires down to low single digits. :lookout:
Kyle Reese
New member
I'm ordering new tires in less than 2 weeks and Basically I've been planning on getting 285/75/16 on my SCS SR8 wheels but now I think I'm wanting 305/70/16, I only have a 3 inch suspension lift but I'm planning on putting on the 2 inch body lift by the end of the summer, you think I'll be alright till then ? I want the 305s because I feel like 285 will be to small on a 5 inch lift
crazydubman
New member
I don't see why not. You may have to trim if you are going to do any heavy wheeling prior to the BL. I have to modify pretty heavily to get them to fit with no rubbing. Also remember though that I have 1 3/8" spacers installed as well as the 4"BS 16x8's. That will play into the rubbing as well. With no spacers and the same BS I was rubbing ever so slightly on the frame rail front and back at full lock.
crazydubman
New member
Hey there everyone. It's been a long while since I have updated this thread it seems. Marriage, kid, house, life too over and the 4tunner has been on the back burner.
I have been looking into what I want to do with it moving forward and have some ideas but could use some help with options and direction.
I have been thinking a lot about getting a little Coleman pop up camper to modify to make more off-road friendly. Reason is that with a 2 year old and frankly the wife and I wanting a little more of a "home base" with the comfort of home while we are away, tent camping may be a thing of the past for family trips. A little pop up will fit the needs of my family at this point in my life more than anything if I want to keep wheeling and exploring. That will be a whole different project thread that I can start when that time comes.
So the main reason for this post is to gather opinions and suggestions on how to transition the 4Runner to be better and more stable for towing. It ride beautiful currently and have never had complaints about the ride of the swayaway, camburg setup up front and swayaway OME set of in the rear. My only gripe is that with no rear swaybar due to it hitting the locker guard while cycling, there is a ton of sway that would make pulling a trailer sketchy at best....
So here lies the question of the hour. I have been looking at the compression adjustable options of shocks out there. (King compression adjustable, fox DSC, and icon CDCV) and wanted to know what everyone's thought were on them. Who would build a custom shock with the specs that I need for length? If I am paying the money to go new, I want to make sure that I am using all of the rear travel available with heimed links and OME 861's.
For the front I have been considering the dual shock factory length arm kit that total chaos offers and add in a secondary remote redo with the adjusters.
Which of the options I'm looking at will have the most user friendly adjustments, so that on the fly when I drop the trailer, I can get down, make a few clicks by hand, then go wheeling.
Also another side benefit to the upgrade would be that the wife would feel comfortable driving it again.
Also, if the possibly of running a factory swaybar with some kind of spacer on the axle side mounts is out there, please let me know as that would help with the body roll if I could get it to cycle enough to use all of the travel.
Thanks
I have been looking into what I want to do with it moving forward and have some ideas but could use some help with options and direction.
I have been thinking a lot about getting a little Coleman pop up camper to modify to make more off-road friendly. Reason is that with a 2 year old and frankly the wife and I wanting a little more of a "home base" with the comfort of home while we are away, tent camping may be a thing of the past for family trips. A little pop up will fit the needs of my family at this point in my life more than anything if I want to keep wheeling and exploring. That will be a whole different project thread that I can start when that time comes.
So the main reason for this post is to gather opinions and suggestions on how to transition the 4Runner to be better and more stable for towing. It ride beautiful currently and have never had complaints about the ride of the swayaway, camburg setup up front and swayaway OME set of in the rear. My only gripe is that with no rear swaybar due to it hitting the locker guard while cycling, there is a ton of sway that would make pulling a trailer sketchy at best....
So here lies the question of the hour. I have been looking at the compression adjustable options of shocks out there. (King compression adjustable, fox DSC, and icon CDCV) and wanted to know what everyone's thought were on them. Who would build a custom shock with the specs that I need for length? If I am paying the money to go new, I want to make sure that I am using all of the rear travel available with heimed links and OME 861's.
For the front I have been considering the dual shock factory length arm kit that total chaos offers and add in a secondary remote redo with the adjusters.
Which of the options I'm looking at will have the most user friendly adjustments, so that on the fly when I drop the trailer, I can get down, make a few clicks by hand, then go wheeling.
Also another side benefit to the upgrade would be that the wife would feel comfortable driving it again.
Also, if the possibly of running a factory swaybar with some kind of spacer on the axle side mounts is out there, please let me know as that would help with the body roll if I could get it to cycle enough to use all of the travel.
Thanks
crazydubman
New member
Soooo I guess its time for an update.
I ended up reinstalling the rear sway bar which helped level out the turns a bunch. Much more stable but it has yet to be decided how it will work off road.
I moved up the mounting holes I think it was 1" or so to where the lower sway bar bolt is now where the center of the bushing would be. I will try to grab pictures of what I did but it is basically the same little flat bar bracket that Sonoran Steel has for their kit that I referenced.
Now on to the larger part of the update.
I have been thinking long and hard about the rolling stock under the 4runner and with keeping the end goal or pulling a pop up and more of a family camping rig, I realized that the beadlocks just weren't needed for how much I would really be airing down to justify them. I only go to the snow maybe once a year (as always I hope to go more) and to Pismo maybe once annually. Those two places are really the only ones that I would think to need them. They weighed 52lbs a corner plus the weight of the 2 piece adapters, were a pain to get balanced because of American tire store managers being hit or miss on balancing them. I have lifetime warrantee on the tires and it was a royal pain just to get them balance. Main reason is they wouldn't pull them from the vehicle with the adapters mounted for liability reasons.
So with all things considered, weight, balancing, need, future, etc, I decided it was time to sell them. Mind you I had tried to sell them a couple years ago when I sold off the full width axles and 38x14.50's and decided to keep the IFS. I had no interest over 6-8 months of posting them on multiple forums so my hopes weren't great. I ended up finding a buyer on Expedition Portal that has a 2001 E350 Van that he wants to mount them on. He expressed interest in the tires too so, I figured I would kill two birds with one stone and sell the tires too so I wouldn't have to dismount anything.
Once payment was received, I had already decided on a set of SCS 16x8" 3.5 BS Stealth 6's in Matte Gunmetal. I thought long and hard about whether I wanted to go back to the Raceline Renegade 6's but just really wanted the lower offset without spacers, Toyota hub bore so no centering rings, and try something new.
I got a hold of Vin with SCS and had him put a set on hold for when the cash came through. Once received, I drove to the shop in Emeryville and picked up a set of 5 with ET lugs.
On my way home I dropped them off at American Tire to mount up the new 315/75/16 Goodyear MTR's which I was going to step up to once the 305's wore down. Guess I got an early Christmas present huh.... :bounce:
These sure are big compared to the 305's with weight on them.....
I ended up reinstalling the rear sway bar which helped level out the turns a bunch. Much more stable but it has yet to be decided how it will work off road.
I moved up the mounting holes I think it was 1" or so to where the lower sway bar bolt is now where the center of the bushing would be. I will try to grab pictures of what I did but it is basically the same little flat bar bracket that Sonoran Steel has for their kit that I referenced.
Now on to the larger part of the update.
I have been thinking long and hard about the rolling stock under the 4runner and with keeping the end goal or pulling a pop up and more of a family camping rig, I realized that the beadlocks just weren't needed for how much I would really be airing down to justify them. I only go to the snow maybe once a year (as always I hope to go more) and to Pismo maybe once annually. Those two places are really the only ones that I would think to need them. They weighed 52lbs a corner plus the weight of the 2 piece adapters, were a pain to get balanced because of American tire store managers being hit or miss on balancing them. I have lifetime warrantee on the tires and it was a royal pain just to get them balance. Main reason is they wouldn't pull them from the vehicle with the adapters mounted for liability reasons.
So with all things considered, weight, balancing, need, future, etc, I decided it was time to sell them. Mind you I had tried to sell them a couple years ago when I sold off the full width axles and 38x14.50's and decided to keep the IFS. I had no interest over 6-8 months of posting them on multiple forums so my hopes weren't great. I ended up finding a buyer on Expedition Portal that has a 2001 E350 Van that he wants to mount them on. He expressed interest in the tires too so, I figured I would kill two birds with one stone and sell the tires too so I wouldn't have to dismount anything.
Once payment was received, I had already decided on a set of SCS 16x8" 3.5 BS Stealth 6's in Matte Gunmetal. I thought long and hard about whether I wanted to go back to the Raceline Renegade 6's but just really wanted the lower offset without spacers, Toyota hub bore so no centering rings, and try something new.
I got a hold of Vin with SCS and had him put a set on hold for when the cash came through. Once received, I drove to the shop in Emeryville and picked up a set of 5 with ET lugs.
On my way home I dropped them off at American Tire to mount up the new 315/75/16 Goodyear MTR's which I was going to step up to once the 305's wore down. Guess I got an early Christmas present huh.... :bounce:
These sure are big compared to the 305's with weight on them.....
infamousRNR
Senior Member
MTR's = Pure Sex
crazydubman
New member
From there I mounted them up and realized that I miscalculated the offset of my previous setup by over 1/2".... Which meant I had a lot more work cut out for me to get the tires to clean up front. I had thought for some reason that a 0 offset 8" wide wheel was a 4"BS but I guess its a 4.5". This meant that my previous setup with adapters was 3 1/8"BS instead of what I thought was 2 5/8"BS.
Either way I took on the challenge after just reading up on Dirtco's tub job he did for the Iroks and followed suit.
Now remember I have no limit to my travel or steering whatsoever. My current Swayaway extended travel coilovers give a full 9.5" of travel full droop to compressed factory bumpstops. In addition to this, I am not running a body lift.
Started out with pulling the coilover so I could cycle everything to see what hit.
Full Stuff
Full front lock
With the fender off
Had already clearance the inner fender here but will probably have to go a bit more. At least it is a smooth surface.
The rear I couldn't even get it past the slider.
This shows how much was already cut and pounded back when I got the 305's clearance.
And where the steering stop was at that point...
They rubbed on the slider and firewall bad. Took an inch out of my slider as they were longer to begin with since I used the ones that were going to go on my 06.
So I started cutting until the tire cleared. Lots of taking the tire on and off and moving the suspension up and down to get to this point.
From there I welded up all of the loose pieces in the Rocker to build strength back for when it is plated over.
I then started to weld in some 3/16" rod into the area to try and build some shape back to it in order for it to be easier to plate.
And a shot from the inside.
From there I started to plate things back up using 16g steel.
And pretty much finished welding.
From there I seam sealed inside and out.
And some undercoating to seal it all up.
And that leaves the passenger side pretty much finished up. Reinstalled the coilover and fender along with all the interior panels after trimming them down to fit the new sheet metal.
Either way I took on the challenge after just reading up on Dirtco's tub job he did for the Iroks and followed suit.
Now remember I have no limit to my travel or steering whatsoever. My current Swayaway extended travel coilovers give a full 9.5" of travel full droop to compressed factory bumpstops. In addition to this, I am not running a body lift.
Started out with pulling the coilover so I could cycle everything to see what hit.
Full Stuff
Full front lock
With the fender off
Had already clearance the inner fender here but will probably have to go a bit more. At least it is a smooth surface.
The rear I couldn't even get it past the slider.
This shows how much was already cut and pounded back when I got the 305's clearance.
And where the steering stop was at that point...
They rubbed on the slider and firewall bad. Took an inch out of my slider as they were longer to begin with since I used the ones that were going to go on my 06.
So I started cutting until the tire cleared. Lots of taking the tire on and off and moving the suspension up and down to get to this point.
From there I welded up all of the loose pieces in the Rocker to build strength back for when it is plated over.
I then started to weld in some 3/16" rod into the area to try and build some shape back to it in order for it to be easier to plate.
And a shot from the inside.
From there I started to plate things back up using 16g steel.
And pretty much finished welding.
From there I seam sealed inside and out.
And some undercoating to seal it all up.
And that leaves the passenger side pretty much finished up. Reinstalled the coilover and fender along with all the interior panels after trimming them down to fit the new sheet metal.
crazydubman
New member
Now on to the drivers side.
Pretty much a direct copy of the passenger side so I didn't take as many pictures.
Reinforcement steel bars ended up in a little difference configuration on this side for some reason.
And pretty much plated up and ready for seam sealer.
Here are a few shots of them mounted up.
Old versus new.
And just a cool shot when it was raining and foggy out.
And for all those wondering, yes the 315/75's measure out a true 35" on an 8" wheel.
Still have to cut the stitch welds on the studs for the tire carrier to convert the pattern to 6 lug again. Once that is done, and the mounting point is pushed an inch tighter to the hatch to compensate for the change in offset, I will be able to mount the spare up and pretty much be done.
All in all a ton of work. I have about 22-23 hours into both sides to get it where it is. Still have to cap the sliders but haven't had time yet with the holidays and being sick.
Pretty much a direct copy of the passenger side so I didn't take as many pictures.
Reinforcement steel bars ended up in a little difference configuration on this side for some reason.
And pretty much plated up and ready for seam sealer.
Here are a few shots of them mounted up.
Old versus new.
And just a cool shot when it was raining and foggy out.
And for all those wondering, yes the 315/75's measure out a true 35" on an 8" wheel.
Still have to cut the stitch welds on the studs for the tire carrier to convert the pattern to 6 lug again. Once that is done, and the mounting point is pushed an inch tighter to the hatch to compensate for the change in offset, I will be able to mount the spare up and pretty much be done.
All in all a ton of work. I have about 22-23 hours into both sides to get it where it is. Still have to cap the sliders but haven't had time yet with the holidays and being sick.
Last edited:
AssBurns
New member
Awesome work man! I will be doing this exact same thing with the same tires in a couple months. Are you rubbing your fenders at all at full stuff? My 33's rubbed the limited flares and fenders enough to tear up the flares at full stuff.
Great looking rig!
EDIT: I see what you did to clear the flares and fenders. Looks really good!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Great looking rig!
EDIT: I see what you did to clear the flares and fenders. Looks really good!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited:
owyheerat
New member
Looks mean!
I love your tire / wheel combo! Looks so good!
I am considering jumping up to 35's (have 33's now), and I really appreciate the detailed pics and write up of your tub job. Very helpful and very well done.
Couple of questions:
What exact product did you use for 'seam seal'?
Wheels: the whole BS / offset lingo, is confusing to me. I have OEM 5 star wheels now and would like to keep them. Would I have more rub issues than you or less? Also, will I have more or less clearance at UCA than you? I have SPC light racing UCA's. Sorry if this is a really dumb question.
Did you have to modify or relocate your windshield fluid reservoir?
I don't read or hear too many guys running the Goodyear MTR's. They look awesome. Do they wear well?
Thanks
Durwin
And some undercoating to seal it all up.
And that leaves the passenger side pretty much finished up. Reinstalled the coilover and fender along with all the interior panels after trimming them down to fit the new sheet metal.
I love your tire / wheel combo! Looks so good!
I am considering jumping up to 35's (have 33's now), and I really appreciate the detailed pics and write up of your tub job. Very helpful and very well done.
Couple of questions:
What exact product did you use for 'seam seal'?
Wheels: the whole BS / offset lingo, is confusing to me. I have OEM 5 star wheels now and would like to keep them. Would I have more rub issues than you or less? Also, will I have more or less clearance at UCA than you? I have SPC light racing UCA's. Sorry if this is a really dumb question.
Did you have to modify or relocate your windshield fluid reservoir?
I don't read or hear too many guys running the Goodyear MTR's. They look awesome. Do they wear well?
Thanks
Durwin
Last edited:
hounddogman
New member
Wow , what a lot of work . Looks great though .
crazydubman
New member
Thanks a lot for the compliment.
I used 3M Ultrapro Sealant
PN# 051135 08300
I picked it up from Napa Auto. It was in stock so I went for it. It comes in a Caulking tube so you will need a dispenser to use.
You will have less clearance issues at the firewall with the stock 5 stars as these and less room to the upper control arm and frame.
Not sure on the clearance gained with the light racing arms as I have Camburgs. Sorry.
Washer fluid resi was relocated to the engine bay with the 33's so there was no issues there when switching to the 35's.
I have had no issues whatsoever with the MTR's and love them. They bite well and aren't to crazy on road noise. Definitely sound like a mud tire but not terrible. As for wear, I had over 20K on my 33's and they were still at about 70% tread left.
crazydubman
New member
Thanks man! As for the flairs and fenders, yes they were gutted to fit the 33's. I still need to trim the flairs up another inch to make sure at full stuff on a down hill section, the tire tread doesn't grab them.
owyheerat
New member
Crazydubman, thanks for the info on sealant.
Sorry, I'm still confused about tire clearance. I will need to tub the firewall more or less than you did?
I will have less clearance at UCA and frame than you?
Thanks for helping this 'retard'.
crazydubman
New member
No worries at all.
The lower the offset numerically of the wheel, the farther away from the hub the tire will be.
My wheels are 3.5" BS and your stock 5 starts are probably in the 5"BS range. Most people from what I hear with 35's and the stock 5 stars end up running spacers to clear the upper control arms.
Check out the 3rd gens on 35's thread. Should have a breakdown of what setup people are running. quite a few have the stock 5 starts for reference.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/108367-official-3rd-gen-4runners-35s-pic-thread.html
Tyler James Inc
Senior Member
Man, great work [emoji1360]
I made the same mistake when I ordered my wheels- I thought the 17x9 et0 would have a BS of 4.5". I was pretty disappointed when I found out the wheel width is measured from the inside of the lip, and BS from the outside. I wanted as much BS as possible, but now I rub the frame before the steering stops. I'd like to be able to hit stops without rubbing, but oh well.
Keep up the great work- I like your rig a lot [emoji1376]
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I made the same mistake when I ordered my wheels- I thought the 17x9 et0 would have a BS of 4.5". I was pretty disappointed when I found out the wheel width is measured from the inside of the lip, and BS from the outside. I wanted as much BS as possible, but now I rub the frame before the steering stops. I'd like to be able to hit stops without rubbing, but oh well.
Keep up the great work- I like your rig a lot [emoji1376]
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owyheerat
New member
Crazydubman,
Thanks, that helps me understand it a little better. It's not easy being a 'retard' lol
I have seen that thread, and got a little overwhelmed with info. Now that I have a better understanding, I will go back through and see what I can glean. I don't have a body lift and don't want one, and I really would like to avoid wheel spacers if possible. I may have to stick with 33's, but man I love the look (not to mention off road benefits) of 35's!
:focus:
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