19963.4lsr5
New member
I’ve seen this looking for smaller pulleys for my Alt to speed it up. Was wondering how close it was to fitting out of the box.
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CS144 Alternator + Big 3 Wiring Upgrade
- Thread starter mtbtim
- Start date
I’ve seen this looking for smaller pulleys for my Alt to speed it up. Was wondering how close it was to fitting out of the box.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
DK327
Member
CS144 upgrade is now complete. Scangauge shows 14.6v-14.8v and cigartette lighter shows 14.4v. The swap was relatively painless, bolts are easy to get to and had already done the big-3 a while back.
For those that want to use the pre-existing alternator belt, pulling the top bolt almost all the way out and removing the dipstick tube bolt allows extra movement of the alternator, just enough to be able to slip the belt on.
I ended up using 5 washers for the gap and placed a rag in back of spacers during install so they don't slip past the hole and fall who knows where.
The old alternator was LActrical high output 140 amp that I had purchased back in 2017; it still worked good, except the pulley bearings had started to make noise in cold weather.
For those that want to use the pre-existing alternator belt, pulling the top bolt almost all the way out and removing the dipstick tube bolt allows extra movement of the alternator, just enough to be able to slip the belt on.
I ended up using 5 washers for the gap and placed a rag in back of spacers during install so they don't slip past the hole and fall who knows where.
The old alternator was LActrical high output 140 amp that I had purchased back in 2017; it still worked good, except the pulley bearings had started to make noise in cold weather.
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When I did the CS144 a few years back, I got one new for 100 bucks. It's been on for a few years now and has been great. All I have extra installed are 2 amps for the stereo system, but my headlights dont dim at all anymore. Im happy, install was simple too. It's a good upgrade.
DK327
Member
Update: the alternator's been performing pretty consistent; it's charging the battery properly and when it's hot out I'm getting 14.4V and when cooler, 14.7V which is normal I think.
Anyway today, I replaced my comms equipment in my truck and thought I would test the alternator by putting some load on it. This is at idle, so I don't know how many amps the alternator is actually putting out below 1K RPM's.
When I key up my 10-meter radio at full 200W PEP, the scangauge momentarily shows voltage drooping to 13V before going back up to 14.4V and staying there. Same thing happens when the front windows are rolling down on auto mode and when they bottom out, it momentarily puts a load on alternator and the voltage droops to 13V then goes back up to 14.4V.
Now, I've seen this droop happen before with my OEM and the old alternator I just replaced too, but not to this extent, this is extreme. Anyone notice anything similar and/or know what might be causing this? My 1st thought was the belt must be slipping but that would make noise?
Like I mentioned, it's only a momentary droop and goes right back up to proper voltage but I'd sure like to get to the bottom of it.
Anyway today, I replaced my comms equipment in my truck and thought I would test the alternator by putting some load on it. This is at idle, so I don't know how many amps the alternator is actually putting out below 1K RPM's.
When I key up my 10-meter radio at full 200W PEP, the scangauge momentarily shows voltage drooping to 13V before going back up to 14.4V and staying there. Same thing happens when the front windows are rolling down on auto mode and when they bottom out, it momentarily puts a load on alternator and the voltage droops to 13V then goes back up to 14.4V.
Now, I've seen this droop happen before with my OEM and the old alternator I just replaced too, but not to this extent, this is extreme. Anyone notice anything similar and/or know what might be causing this? My 1st thought was the belt must be slipping but that would make noise?
Like I mentioned, it's only a momentary droop and goes right back up to proper voltage but I'd sure like to get to the bottom of it.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Someone might correct me if I've got this wrong, but I believe those readings are correct. The alternator will increase load if voltage drops but it is not instantaneous. If the voltage drops down and stays down is when there is a problem.
DK327
Member
I performed some more tests this morning. When the vehicle is in park @ 750RPM's and under load, the voltage drops momentarily before going back up to 14.5v.
When the vehicle is in gear and idling @ 550RPM's and under load, the voltage drops but then only goes back up to 13.6v and stays there until I increase the rpm's just a touch, to 650RPM's and at that point the voltage goes back up to 14.5v.
Is this normal operation? Does CS144 need 650RPM's minimum to produce juice at normal capacity under load? Check my wiring and tighten the belt a bit more maybe? How about tightening the throttle cable some so it idles a tad bit higher, not allowing it to go below 650RPM's when in gear?
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phattyduck
Elite Member
13.6V is still totally acceptable for a vehicle. That won't charge the battery (unless it is really hot), but that's fine - it also isn't discharging the battery.
A momentary drop with increased load is also normal - the regulator responds fairly slowly, at least in every vehicle I've ever owned.
-Charlie
A momentary drop with increased load is also normal - the regulator responds fairly slowly, at least in every vehicle I've ever owned.
-Charlie
19963.4lsr5
New member
Plus the IAC has to respond to the extra load also.
Everything but my cummins acts this way. It’s normal.
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Late_Night
Junior Member
Edit 2: Denso P/N 021080-0140 confirmed to work with 17mm shaft size pulleys.
Edit: Denso P/N 021080-0140 get some good leads for the 150 amp alt. Trying to find out the idle amps for the unit. Will update if I get one...
Looks like there are a few Denso options:
2 other alternator options for our 1st gen tacoma's with 5VZ-FE's | Tacoma World
I looked around for the 150 amp version, seems hard to find a Denso made alt.
Leaning toward a DENSO 2105185 for the CS144 install.
Edit: Denso P/N 021080-0140 get some good leads for the 150 amp alt. Trying to find out the idle amps for the unit. Will update if I get one...
Looks like there are a few Denso options:
2 other alternator options for our 1st gen tacoma's with 5VZ-FE's | Tacoma World
I looked around for the 150 amp version, seems hard to find a Denso made alt.
Leaning toward a DENSO 2105185 for the CS144 install.
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19963.4lsr5
New member
I remember running across this info a while ago.
It will be interesting to see what amps that 150a unit will push idling at 600rpm.
I put a smaller pulley on my 70a Alt and got an extra 4a to 5a out of it at 600rpm. I can now push 44-45 amps instead of 39-41 amps at 600.
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Late_Night
Junior Member
Yeah, the idle output of the CS144 is enticing...
I am going to order a 50mm pulley for my OEM alternator in the mean time.
Did you need a shorter belt when you put the smaller pulley on your alternator?
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
If it's idle amps you are after you can't beat the price and ease of install (with the adapter sold on Ebay) of the CS144. Mine is still crankin' out amps years later.
If you are not after idle amps those John Deer DENSO's look like a great option if you have the extra cash. It's very easy to top out the stock alternators with lights and accessories on. Some people have issues just with high wattage bulbs and windshield wipers on which makes the lights flicker!
If you are not after idle amps those John Deer DENSO's look like a great option if you have the extra cash. It's very easy to top out the stock alternators with lights and accessories on. Some people have issues just with high wattage bulbs and windshield wipers on which makes the lights flicker!
phattyduck
Elite Member
My Alltrac Camry has an 80A Denso on it too - with electric fans. Aftermarket fans + brake lights + headlights + turn signals = 11V sometimes. That one probably spins slower at idle to support the 7200rpm redline. It also has the offset ears, so I can't cross-reference any of the upgrade options from the 5VZ. At least the Camry never runs a winch.
ound:At 12.6V you aren't charging the battery, but you aren't discharging it either - so it isn't the end of the world.
-Charlie
Late_Night
Junior Member
Good point, pretty much settles it, CS144 it is. Luckily Denso makes a version.
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brillo_76
Elite Member
You can throw a smaller pulling to bring up the idle Amp output.My Alltrac Camry has an 80A Denso on it too - with electric fans. Aftermarket fans + brake lights + headlights + turn signals = 11V sometimes. That one probably spins slower at idle to support the 7200rpm redline. It also has the offset ears, so I can't cross-reference any of the upgrade options from the 5VZ. At least the Camry never runs a winch.
At 12.6V you aren't charging the battery, but you aren't discharging it either - so it isn't the end of the world.
-Charlie
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AnotherCO4Runner
Member
Any Tips or Mods for Install
EDIT
I ordered a New ACDelco Gold 335-1050 from Amazon. Cheaper than a rebuild at any partstore.
Hey [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] (or anyone else), I am replacing my recently failed alternator with the Delco 335-1050. Any advice from your experience?
Note: I am doing the Big 3 while I am at it
EDIT
I ordered a New ACDelco Gold 335-1050 from Amazon. Cheaper than a rebuild at any partstore.
Hey [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] (or anyone else), I am replacing my recently failed alternator with the Delco 335-1050. Any advice from your experience?
Note: I am doing the Big 3 while I am at it
DK327
Member
Hello people,
It's almost been a year with my CS144 and it's been mostly OK, but with some new developments as of late.
About a month ago when it started to get warmer out, I noticed when the vehicle is in gear (most of the time, but not always which is weird) and is stopped at a light for instance, my ScanGauge shows ~13V (sometimes dips into the high 12's) so it's not charging the battery. Only when I start to move and the RPM's go above 1K does it jump back up to 14.x and remains there so long as RPM's are over 1K. Soon as I slow down to below 1K, the voltage also drops, if the vehicle is still in gear.
I didn't notice this behavior when it's colder out, probably because of the voltage regulator that adjusts the voltage based on ambient temp. When I shift to N and am stopped, the voltage goes back up to 14.x volts and stays there until I roll the windows down or turn the air on or whatever that puts load on the alt, then it dips again.
This time I uploaded a video I took at a parking lot this morning. I'm in reverse with the wheel chocks preventing movement and I gradually increase the RPMs until it's over 1K at which point the alt is making proper voltage. When it starts dipping below 1K the voltage goes back down. I then put the vehicle in neutral and voltage jumps back up to proper voltage.
From what I can tell, at least for me, this CS144 is not making power, reliably, under 1K RPM's. Could it be a lemon or is this normal? This thing came with a little booklet that showed how many amps it made throughout the RPM range initially and I remember the graph started from 1K RPM to 5K RPM's. I didn't think much of it at the time, but the fact that it didn't start from below 1K RPM's maybe indicitave of it's...shortcomings during idle.
Here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb4u_hVQUuA
It's almost been a year with my CS144 and it's been mostly OK, but with some new developments as of late.
About a month ago when it started to get warmer out, I noticed when the vehicle is in gear (most of the time, but not always which is weird) and is stopped at a light for instance, my ScanGauge shows ~13V (sometimes dips into the high 12's) so it's not charging the battery. Only when I start to move and the RPM's go above 1K does it jump back up to 14.x and remains there so long as RPM's are over 1K. Soon as I slow down to below 1K, the voltage also drops, if the vehicle is still in gear.
I didn't notice this behavior when it's colder out, probably because of the voltage regulator that adjusts the voltage based on ambient temp. When I shift to N and am stopped, the voltage goes back up to 14.x volts and stays there until I roll the windows down or turn the air on or whatever that puts load on the alt, then it dips again.
This time I uploaded a video I took at a parking lot this morning. I'm in reverse with the wheel chocks preventing movement and I gradually increase the RPMs until it's over 1K at which point the alt is making proper voltage. When it starts dipping below 1K the voltage goes back down. I then put the vehicle in neutral and voltage jumps back up to proper voltage.
From what I can tell, at least for me, this CS144 is not making power, reliably, under 1K RPM's. Could it be a lemon or is this normal? This thing came with a little booklet that showed how many amps it made throughout the RPM range initially and I remember the graph started from 1K RPM to 5K RPM's. I didn't think much of it at the time, but the fact that it didn't start from below 1K RPM's maybe indicitave of it's...shortcomings during idle.
Here is the video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mb4u_hVQUuA
2TH4IST
Member
Probably need to go to a smaller pulley. Not spinning enough at idle. You can also upgrade the regulator to a set charging point. I can give you more info after I get off work. I did the same, smaller pulley and higher set point regulator (I have an agm) works at idle and when hot 14.8 cold and 14.3 hot.
Here is the site I use for my cs144 parts:
Quick start
Here is the site I use for my cs144 parts:
Quick start
