CS144 alternator problem

[Mackalicious]

Hi, I have a predicament. I just did the CS144 swap after my stock alternator crapped out and am not getting any alternator output. I removed it from the car, took it to the part store along with the adapter harness and the both tested good (14.74v). They ran two tests, one without the adapter harness and one time with the harness. I reinstalled and nothing.

I tested the OEM connector and got BAT voltage at the sense and IGN wires.

Ohm'd out the adapter harness.

tapped into the adapter harness and ran wires from the IGN and sense wires straight to the battery.

power and grounds are good. I have 4 gauge wire from bat to body, body to engine, alt (+)post to battery.

I have tested for voltage at alt (+) post.

Anyone have any input about the ALT light wire pertaining to its role in energizing the field windings?

Not sure what else it can be. Unless the autopart store tester is crap.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

That Toyota connector can be a bugger. Is it seated all the way?

Is the bulb for the battery light good? If that filament for the bulb is open the Alt won’t charge. Which also means never put an LED bulb in its place


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[Mackalicious]

For anyone that may have the problem in the future, I was a faulty alternator from the part store.

I forced the part store to warranty the alternator even though their test bench passed it. I think it was internally shorting and the power from the wires used to energize the windings was shorting to the output terminal. Therefore it was showing the proper voltage without actually energizing the coil. It'd only show up as faulty if they tested amperage output which they didn't. I knew it was the alternator after I unplugged the harness from the car and ran wires from the battery to the connector to manually energize the windings, bypassing the car harness entirely.

To manually energize the alternator, Connect all three wires to the positive battery terminal. On the alt light (L) wire, you can connect a small light bulb or a 50ohm resistor inline in between the wire and the battery post. This will bypass every part of the car, so it will rule out any fuses, wires, connectors, etc. Before testing, ohm the alternator case to the battery Negative terminal to verify your ground is good (<0.5ohm preferably 0.1 or 0.2ohm). Use a DMM and test the voltage at the output (+) post on the alternator and the alternator case. As long as the alternator is spinning, you will have 13.5+ volts if the alternator is good. if not, alternator is faulty. R&R.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

You are not the first person to say that their test bench said it was good and it wasn’t.


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[calimobber]

Interesting. What brand is the CS144?


I went with a Denso and they seem to be pretty solid.

 

[brillo_76]

Interesting. What brand is the CS144?


I went with a Denso and they seem to be pretty solid.

I am too as we have seen several threads in the last month or so with these high output CS144 alternators and it seems everyone is having issues with them.

If they come from the box stores, advanced, autozone etc. I suspect they are all have issues. I have heard all kinds of people in all different vehicles having those die along with the starters. Completely unreliable at all. Is anyone else hearing this as well?

 

[Mackalicious]

Interesting. What brand is the CS144?


I went with a Denso and they seem to be pretty solid.

It was a reman'ed Ultima brand from Oreilly's. I have always had good luck with them.

 

[Mackalicious]

I am too as we have seen several threads in the last month or so with these high output CS144 alternators and it seems everyone is having issues with them.

If they come from the box stores, advanced, autozone etc. I suspect they are all have issues. I have heard all kinds of people in all different vehicles having those die along with the starters. Completely unreliable at all. Is anyone else hearing this as well?

So I worked on cars for over 10 years and am an L1 master tech, from my experience Anything Autozone is shit. If it was autozone, I exepcted to have to pull the part and reorder it. We'd only order Duralast parts if the other shops were out of stock or It'd be half a day before they were delivered and we had a waiting customer. Advanced was one of the best and most used. I could go either way with the carquest parts now that they integrated them back into the advanced stores. I also like Oreilly's a lot, but they never seemed to be close to any shops I worked. Napa is great too, but their hours suck.

Get OEM if you can swing the price. Try to get new parts over reman'd if its going to be hard to pull if it's DOA.

 

[brillo_76]

So I worked on cars for over 10 years and am an L1 master tech, from my experience Anything Autozone is shit. If it was autozone, I exepcted to have to pull the part and reorder it. We'd only order Duralast parts if the other shops were out of stock or It'd be half a day before they were delivered and we had a waiting customer. Advanced was one of the best and most used. I could go either way with the carquest parts now that they integrated them back into the advanced stores. I also like Oreilly's a lot, but they never seemed to be close to any shops I worked. Napa is great too, but their hours suck.



Get OEM if you can swing the price. Try to get new parts over reman'd if its going to be hard to pull if it's DOA.

Ok thanks for the information. I been working on Toyotas for almost 30 years as a hobby mechanic. I learned 20 years ago to only use denso remains for starters and alternators. As nothing else seems to
last.
Mostly from what I have observed. The brushes in the alternator will last close 180k to 200k. The starter brushes about the same. :]





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