LakeRunr
Member
I don't have the homelink buttons in my overhead panel, so I recently installed a custom garage door opener button in my center console.
I started by purchasing a second OEM "VSC OFF" button (the one with the car glyph, with skid marks, and the word "OFF"), wiring socket, and "repair" wires (wires that already have the metal connectors on the end, which slip into the "socket"). The "VSC OFF" button is a momentary switch.
Then I masked off the car glyph (and the body of the button), and sprayed flat black model paint over the button (a few coats), to get rid of the skid marks and "OFF" letters.
Next, I removed the masking tape from the car glyph, and rubbed on some dry-transfer decals to make the garage outline glyph. I wish these had been a little narrower, and I still may redo it if I find the right decals.
Finally, I sprayed a few coats of semi-gloss ModelMasters lacquer over the whole button surface to make a good match for the OEM buttons and to lock in the dry-transfer decals.
Installation consisted of connecting two wires to tap into the ashtray illumination wires (could have also used the DAC switch's illumination wires), one wire to constant 12v power (my power socket is constant, having done the constant 12V power outlets mod), and the last wire I ran up thru the dash, up the A pillar, under the headliner, to the cavity behind the overhead (maplight) panel.
That's where I hid my garage door opener. It's a 12 volt LiftMaster unit. I soldered the internal switch contacts, and ran the last wire to the + terminal where the battery usually sits. The - terminal has a wire soldered that taps into the ground wire in the overhead (maplight) panel. I used a Deutsch DTM 2-way connector for modularity.
I used "Posi-Taps" for the tapped-in wires. They are much better and easier to use than "vampire" taps.
At night, with the parking lights on, the little car glyph is illuminated!
I started by purchasing a second OEM "VSC OFF" button (the one with the car glyph, with skid marks, and the word "OFF"), wiring socket, and "repair" wires (wires that already have the metal connectors on the end, which slip into the "socket"). The "VSC OFF" button is a momentary switch.
Then I masked off the car glyph (and the body of the button), and sprayed flat black model paint over the button (a few coats), to get rid of the skid marks and "OFF" letters.
Next, I removed the masking tape from the car glyph, and rubbed on some dry-transfer decals to make the garage outline glyph. I wish these had been a little narrower, and I still may redo it if I find the right decals.
Finally, I sprayed a few coats of semi-gloss ModelMasters lacquer over the whole button surface to make a good match for the OEM buttons and to lock in the dry-transfer decals.
Installation consisted of connecting two wires to tap into the ashtray illumination wires (could have also used the DAC switch's illumination wires), one wire to constant 12v power (my power socket is constant, having done the constant 12V power outlets mod), and the last wire I ran up thru the dash, up the A pillar, under the headliner, to the cavity behind the overhead (maplight) panel.
That's where I hid my garage door opener. It's a 12 volt LiftMaster unit. I soldered the internal switch contacts, and ran the last wire to the + terminal where the battery usually sits. The - terminal has a wire soldered that taps into the ground wire in the overhead (maplight) panel. I used a Deutsch DTM 2-way connector for modularity.
I used "Posi-Taps" for the tapped-in wires. They are much better and easier to use than "vampire" taps.
At night, with the parking lights on, the little car glyph is illuminated!
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