Cutting an access port for the top of the fuel tank...

FiXXXerX

FiXXXerX

New member
So I've got the P0440 code and have ordered the Fuel Overfill Check Valve & Gasket as well as the Fuel Cutoff Vale and gasket. I've seen quite a few tutorials and 'fixes' around and it's been what seems like a 50/50 split between people who just drop the tank and others that cut and seal an access port so they have access to the accessories on the top of the tank.

My 4runner has 196k on the clock and I'm not sure the condition of the fuel pump but don't feel like throwing a new pump in at the moment if it's needed, but my fear is that it's possible it's going to go out sooner or later and I'd need to drop the tank yet again, so cutting an access port seems smart, but then that's my questions, is it?

Just looking for opinions at this point!

(I recognize that this may not be a popular path to take, but it seems insane to me that they added a port that wasn't able to access anything. Other vehicles have these access ports making the entire job so much easier it's laughable)
 
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nissanh said:
I don't remember, but I think there is an access port already made to remove the fuel pump.
Click to expand...

It's really there to help with the disconnecting of the electrical connectors, and it doesn't allow access to the valves that go bad and cause the P0440 CEL's and gas fume leaks :(
 
FiXXXerX said:
So I've got the P0440 code and have ordered the Fuel Overfill Check Valve & Gasket as well as the Fuel Cutoff Vale and gasket. I've seen quite a few tutorials and 'fixes' around and it's been what seems like a 50/50 split between people who just drop the tank and others that cut and seal an access port so they have access to the accessories on the top of the tank.

My 4runner has 196k on the clock and I'm not sure the condition of the fuel pump but don't feel like throwing a new pump in at the moment if it's needed, but my fear is that it's possible it's going to go out sooner or later and I'd need to drop the tank yet again, so cutting an access port seems smart, but then that's my questions, is it?

Just looking for opinions at this point!

(I recognize that this may not be a popular path to take, but it seems insane to me that they added a port that wasn't able to access anything. Other vehicles have these access ports making the entire job so much easier it's laughable)
Click to expand...

I just dropped the tank and replaced the pump. It took 1.5 hrs to do from assembling the tools to cleaning the tools after-rust free T4R. The hardest part as others have stated was the wire harness that is secured in place (took 45 mins of fighting-it's just a push-in clip that secures the harness in place I was going to cut it as the harness could be secured by zipties to anything. Everything else was done underneath the vehicle. I also ordered a flexible hose clamp https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Flexible-Clamp-Pliers-Water/dp/B00F3DP2KC/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510850097&sr=1-4&keywords=clamp+tool which has been a life safer and is fast becoming a favorite tool.

The wire clip is a simple squeeze type similar to what holds the MAF harness to intake tube but you have to squeeze top/bottom tabs and not the sides-as soon as I realized that it came right out. If you don't care about the tabs on the clip, just slide a razor btwn the harness and cut the tab.

Tools needed: 19mm, 14mm wrenches (flare) and sockets, Phillips screwdriver, clamp tool, small flat head screwdriver for the big plug/harness.
I disconnected the 3 lines at the front of the tank (2 have clamps, 1 has 19mm/14mm flared fittings), 2 at the back (filler typical screw hose clamp-phillips head and vent line clamp). One wire harness from top of tank, 1 smaller harness (ABS harness?). The tank shield and cover are 14mm and 12mm. The 1 front tank bolt is 12mm, rear strap is 14mm.

The Denso pump comes with a new sock filter so you don't need another one. New top of tank gasket and don't forget to clean the float contacts with an eraser. Amazon Denso 950-0100 pump was about $70, Denso 954-0019 gasket $15, tool $14 give or take.

-J
 
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While I appreciate the info firemanj92, I am curious as to your opinion of cutting an access port so as to make the job at hand and any subsequent jobs easier?
 
I would think it would be fairly easy. There isn't much in that area as seen here:
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..and it is under the back seat so I don't think it would be a longer term problem. I'd personally drop the tank because it is not that tough but admittedly, mine is rust free :)

If you do it, I would cover it with something and use a sealant of some type to keep fumes and anything from coming back up through the hole and maybe throw a couple rivets in it. Probably not the best approach but I suppose technically it would work.
 
firemanj92 said:
I just dropped the tank and replaced the pump. It took 1.5 hrs to do from assembling the tools to cleaning the tools after-rust free T4R. The hardest part as others have stated was the wire harness that is secured in place (took 45 mins of fighting-it's just a push-in clip that secures the harness in place I was going to cut it as the harness could be secured by zipties to anything. Everything else was done underneath the vehicle. I also ordered a flexible hose clamp https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Flexible-Clamp-Pliers-Water/dp/B00F3DP2KC/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510850097&sr=1-4&keywords=clamp+tool which has been a life safer and is fast becoming a favorite tool.

The wire clip is a simple squeeze type similar to what holds the MAF harness to intake tube but you have to squeeze top/bottom tabs and not the sides-as soon as I realized that it came right out. If you don't care about the tabs on the clip, just slide a razor btwn the harness and cut the tab.

Tools needed: 19mm, 14mm wrenches (flare) and sockets, Phillips screwdriver, clamp tool, small flat head screwdriver for the big plug/harness.
I disconnected the 3 lines at the front of the tank (2 have clamps, 1 has 19mm/14mm flared fittings), 2 at the back (filler typical screw hose clamp-phillips head and vent line clamp). One wire harness from top of tank, 1 smaller harness (ABS harness?). The tank shield and cover are 14mm and 12mm. The 1 front tank bolt is 12mm, rear strap is 14mm.

The Denso pump comes with a new sock filter so you don't need another one. New top of tank gasket and don't forget to clean the float contacts with an eraser. Amazon Denso 950-0100 pump was about $70, Denso 954-0019 gasket $15, tool $14 give or take.

-J
Click to expand...

That tool is on my cart, thanks, but part numbers would help on the rest :satan:
 
FiXXXerX said:
While I appreciate the info firemanj92, I am curious as to your opinion of cutting an access port so as to make the job at hand and any subsequent jobs easier?
Click to expand...

I don't see why not, it definitely would help for future access. The factory only uses foam tape/rubber to seal the opening with plastic screw grommets.

There should be OEM vent holes with rubber valve/flaps in the rear quarter panels somewhere to help scavenge fumes/air from the cab so that shouldn't be too much of a concern.
 
octanejunkie said:
ALL THE PART NUMBERS
Lol

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

pump Denso 950-0100 w/ pump filter $70, Amazon
tank gasket Denso 954-0019 $15, Amazon
A/F sensor Denso 234-9002 (forward O2) $125 (Originally bought thru ebay $65 and had to re-buy from AA due to failure).
Rear O2 Denso 234-4153 (18" cable/plug) $60 AA w/coupon
Fuel Pressure regulator Kyosan C3000136676KYO = Denso 23280-62030 (I opened the package and it's Denso) $125 from AA
Fuel injectors Aisin brand (OEM) 23209-62040 $160 for all 6 new from ebay
MAF Denso/Toyo 22204-22010/197400-2030, 22204-07010/197400-2040 (all same part. The newer is 22010 which Toyo uses in our FJ also). ebay
Ignition Coils Denso 673-1201 $170 for 3 Amazon
Silicone Intakes Boost/Vacuum Hose Shop Kit, Black (VAC000590) $50

Most items were bought from Amazon, Advance Auto w/ coupons, ebay (injectors), SiliconeIntakes.com

-J
 
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