CV axle angle after lift

[tom5191]

I seem to have rather steep CV angle after OME lift with 884 springs and spacer. I put the diff spacer in and I still have steep angle. I destroyed one axle in about 150 miles. I don't know why I have such a bad angle when it doesn't look like other people do running the same set up. Driver side binds terribly when making left turns and accelerating hard. Binds a bit when making right turns too, but it's not nearly as bad. Also binds when the front end goes over bumps and the suspension unloads. Any ideas what i can do to make drop the cv down more? Feels like I'm already destroying another driver side axle.

OME lift with 884 springs with additional spacer
LR UCA
Diff drop spacers

Fender to ground:
Driver: 38"
Passenger 38 1/2"

hub to fender:
driver: 24"
passenger: 24"

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[tom5191]

Grabbed a couple more shots. Looks like the lower shock bolts destroyed the boot on the driver side, and the angle is wearing a groove into the inner boots on both side.

 

[truckhigh]

If its the bolt then cut the outer boot's inner clamp. The outer cv boot looks over extended. just push the cv boot outwards closer to the rotor then replace with a hose clamp. the oem band requires a rental tool and takes a couple bands to get the hang of it. I have done this to my buddies fj after lifting it.

You might want to get a better quality rebuilt axle. the axles should be the perfect length when rebuilt. once they are sealed the vacuum in the boot won't let it change length. your is tight on both ends where one is extended and one is scrunched up. might need to mess with the inner boot too. You want the boot to be in a natural state when its at ride height

 

[truckhigh]

computer is tripping

 

[tom5191]

If its the bolt then cut the outer boot's inner clamp. The outer cv boot looks over extended. just push the cv boot outwards closer to the rotor then replace with a hose clamp. the oem band requires a rental tool and takes a couple bands to get the hang of it. I have done this to my buddies fj after lifting it.

You might want to get a better quality rebuilt axle. the axles should be the perfect length when rebuilt. once they are sealed the vacuum in the boot won't let it change length. your is tight on both ends where one is extended and one is scrunched up. might need to mess with the inner boot too. You want the boot to be in a natural state when its at ride height

The rebuild is a CVJ. Don't really get any better options for a rebuild. I'm going to flip the bolt on the driver side and reboot the inner cv joint, but that's not really my issue. It's the angle that's my problem.

Almost exactly this guy's problem, but he said at the end he was going to get a set of oem axles and get them rebuilt my CVJ and no follow up.
CV Joint Failure? - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

 

[truckhigh]

how big is the spacer you put on top of the OME's?

 

[Velonici]

Wait so you have a lift and spacers? I think that might be too much.

 

[tom5191]

It's an optional 1/2" spacer that you can get with the OME lift that makes it a 3" lift.

 

[nevada]

get a drop bracket, and drop the diff.


though, are you sure it only went up 3"?

mine is all stock, and right now, the front axles angle down, from the tires to the diff. it looks like a 1 to 2" lift would put them almost completely FLAT. so a 3" would have them angled very slightly. yours looks like a LOT of angle.

 

[tom5191]

get a drop bracket, and drop the diff.


though, are you sure it only went up 3"?

mine is all stock, and right now, the front axles angle down, from the tires to the diff. it looks like a 1 to 2" lift would put them almost completely FLAT. so a 3" would have them angled very slightly. yours looks like a LOT of angle.

The 1" diff drop spacer? Already have it.

It does looks like more lift than other people are showing. Which I find kind of weird since it's none adjustable shocks.

 

[nevada]

The 1" diff drop spacer? Already have it.

It does looks like more lift than other people are showing. Which I find kind of weird since it's none adjustable shocks.

no, I mean a complete drop cradle. you mount it, then remount the lower control arms to it. it also drops the diff the same amount. it should set your axles back in line where they were prior to the lift.

I know there are many on this site that disagree, but in my opinion it IS the correct way to lift our rigs.

 

[tom5191]

no, I mean a complete drop cradle. you mount it, then remount the lower control arms to it. it also drops the diff the same amount. it should set your axles back in line where they were prior to the lift.

I know there are many on this site that disagree, but in my opinion it IS the correct way to lift our rigs.

Guessing that reduces the ground clearance under the diff, and have to put a spacer in for the skid place to be mounted?

Is the cradle something you have to fabricate yourself or is there an off the shelf one?

 

[NuclearN8]

I've seen a lot of 4Runner lifts.... and I'm no expert, but This doesn't look right. Are you sure you installed the right parts for a 4Runner 4th Gen?

 

[tom5191]

I've seen a lot of 4Runner lifts.... and I'm no expert, but This doesn't look right. Are you sure you installed the right parts for a 4Runner 4th Gen?

I thought I did everything right. Upper and lower control arms were tightened with the suspension compressed. Shocks came preassembled when I bought them from Toytec. I did find it a little weird that the passenger side brake line went back into the stock location without an issue, but the driver side I couldn't get back in so I zip tied it to the sway bar end link mount since I took the sway bar out.

Do the spindles looks too close to the tire?

 

[wyanrard]

This is odd, I'm on 5100s, second notch, with OME 884s, sitting higher than you and have no binding problems. Hopefully it will settle, but I even rarely bind at full droop.

 

[truckhigh]

you have too much lift in the front. From your pics you have a top spacer and what looks to be a lift ring on the shock. That must of been really hard to stuff the shock back in.

they are talking about a drop bracket lift like rough country or pro comp. Looks like you need to lose the top spacer.

 

[truckhigh]

have you got your alignment done. just noticed your LR uca is pushed all the way in. Mine the spc logo end is almost flush with the outer most part of the UCA

 

[tom5191]

have you got your alignment done. just noticed your LR uca is pushed all the way in. Mine the spc logo end is almost flush with the outer most part of the UCA

I did get an alignment at a Plaza Tire shop that does alignments for a few of the local off road shops, but I'm not sure I'm really thrilled with it. If the sheet they gave me is the after, then it's a shitty alignment. It's like .66 positive camber on the passenger side and -2.something negative camber on the driver side. I have the spec sheet at home that I can relook tonight.

 

[NuclearN8]

I'm gonna be honest. I wouldn't drive it. Sesame street taught me one of these things is not like the other... what did Toytec say? have you contacted them with your concerns... I would have to imagine if you send them this picture (the side shot) and your order number there is no way they would agree it's suppose to look like that... ) something is not correct with your order or install (although that is hard to mess up considering they came preassembled).

Do you have a body lift installed too? it just looks way to high... the fenders that is.

 

[tom5191]

No body lift. Only the suspension.

I'm taking the additional top plate spacers out tonight, hoping that can help until I figure out what's causing the additional problems. It seems 23"-24" hub to fender is pretty common with these trucks. Thinking I might just have one of those freak case trucks where it doesn't take kindly to lifts.