CV Axle Binding?

[tay4R]

I've been hearing a groan/clunk on the front left suspension for a few months since a wheeling trip to the desert. I hear it on some, but not all start/stops. Sometimes when turning and going slowly. Quick bumps like pot holes or small speed bumps creates the noise as well. From my own diagnosis, I'm thinking the CV is binding at fool droop, thus causing the sound.

Diagnosis:
Noticed that when the front end is lifted off the ground, the front left tire can only spin freely about 1/4 turn before being halted. Nothing is hitting. Sway bar is removed. Truck is in 2WD. 1" diff drop is installed. Here is a video:


The right side spins freely while lifted off the ground:


What leads me to believe the CV is the issue, is that with the truck on jack stands, I used my floor jack to lift up the front left LCA. Just a 1/2" or so of lift and the front left tire spins freely:


I'm going to replace the front left CV as it is still under warranty (only had it installed for 1 year and has 18 month warranty). The one installed is from Rockauto: 2004 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 CV Half Shaft Assembly | RockAuto
Cardone Select w/ Optional Heavy Duty Thermoplastic Outboard Boot

Hopefully this solves it. Would like some input on others if this has happened to them? Seems strange to only happen on one side. Both coilovers are adjusted to the same height, so droop should be the same on left/right.

Thanks in advance!!

 

[4Runner010]

Im currently having this same problem I started my own thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/236564-front-end-thump-videos-help-me-diagnose.html but when i did couldn't think of the word binding anyway if I go straight it doesn't do it or going right but if I turn left at high speed my cv binds and vibrates my whole car. So far to help i put my sway bar on and installed a diff drop and haven't been able to drive it since i installed it because i blew my diff but ill let you know. The weird thing though is when my front end is off the ground both my tires do it but i only notice one side. Sorry i know this isn't all that much help just throwing out my problem and ideas.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I've been hearing a groan/clunk on the front left suspension for a few months since a wheeling trip to the desert. I hear it on some, but not all start/stops. Sometimes when turning and going slowly. Quick bumps like pot holes or small speed bumps creates the noise as well. From my own diagnosis, I'm thinking the CV is binding at fool droop, thus causing the sound.

Diagnosis:
Noticed that when the front end is lifted off the ground, the front left tire can only spin freely about 1/4 turn before being halted. Nothing is hitting. Sway bar is removed. Truck is in 2WD. 1" diff drop is installed. Here is a video:

I'm going to replace the front left CV as it is still under warranty (only had it installed for 1 year and has 18 month warranty). The one installed is from Rockauto: 2004 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 CV Half Shaft Assembly | RockAuto
Cardone Select w/ Optional Heavy Duty Thermoplastic Outboard Boot

Hopefully this solves it. Would like some input on others if this has happened to them? Seems strange to only happen on one side. Both coilovers are adjusted to the same height, so droop should be the same on left/right.

Thanks in advance!!

Is your right CV OEM/Toyota? People have had issues with aftermarket CVs either leaking around the diff seal or binding sooner than the Toyota CVs.

 

[having fun]

Usually if you full wheel drop and rotate the tire, and the CV binds, means you have to much lift. Why Toyota recommends NOT going over 3".

 

[tay4R]

Usually if you full wheel drop and rotate the tire, and the CV binds, means you have to much lift. Why Toyota recommends NOT going over 3".

Yea this was my thought too but when I installed the CV it turned smoothly. May have to do some coilover adjustment to limit the lift.

Is your right CV OEM/Toyota? People have had issues with aftermarket CVs either leaking around the diff seal or binding sooner than the Toyota CVs.

Right side CV is also from RockAuto. No leaking issues. Since I can return the binding one, I'll give this a go again. Otherwise back to OEM and will see how that goes. Thanks.

Im currently having this same problem I started my own thread

Watched your videos. Spinning my tire feels the same as yours, and when it binds the tire moves upward a little. I haven't looked at the transmission yet to see if it's moving too.
Don't think mine is as bad as yours yet as I have no vehicle vibration. Just a slight groan over bumps and some turns.

Going to take a crack at it all this weekend.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Yea this was my thought too but when I installed the CV it turned smoothly. May have to do some coilover adjustment to limit the lift.

You can't limit your droop by adjusting an adjustable coilover but of course it changes your ride height and therefore affects the CV angle at ride height. I'm really surprised you have binding (if that is what it is) with a diff drop.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Im currently having this same problem I started my own thread http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/236564-front-end-thump-videos-help-me-diagnose.html but when i did couldn't think of the word binding anyway if I go straight it doesn't do it or going right but if I turn left at high speed my cv binds and vibrates my whole car. So far to help i put my sway bar on and installed a diff drop and haven't been able to drive it since i installed it because i blew my diff but ill let you know. The weird thing though is when my front end is off the ground both my tires do it but i only notice one side. Sorry i know this isn't all that much help just throwing out my problem and ideas.

You wouldn't happen to have aftermarket CV axles too?

Edit: I see for one of your posts you say you have an aftermarket axle. The reason why you may have worse issues is that you don't have a diff drop while the OP in this thread does. Just spitballing here.

 

[CruzadoBlanco]

after my experience with other aftermarket CVs that bound up so bad it blew the intermediate shaft in half. i only run napa remans or OEM axles. never had and issue with those, and i have the maximum allowable down travel out of the stock front geometry that you can get. the only issue i do have is if i wheel a ton i tend to tear boots at a stupid fast pace.

 

[tay4R]

You can't limit your droop by adjusting an adjustable coilover but of course it changes your ride height and therefore affects the CV angle at ride height. I'm really surprised you have binding (if that is what it is) with a diff drop.

Ah yea that makes sense about the coilover. Is there anything that can be done to the front suspension geometry to limit droop/down travel? Besides re-installing the sway bar.

after my experience with other aftermarket CVs that bound up so bad it blew the intermediate shaft in half. i only run napa remans or OEM axles. never had and issue with those, and i have the maximum allowable down travel out of the stock front geometry that you can get. the only issue i do have is if i wheel a ton i tend to tear boots at a stupid fast pace.

yikes, but better than blowing a CV. Thanks for the input and will look into sourcing some OEM axles.

 

[Inv4drZm]

Ah yea that makes sense about the coilover. Is there anything that can be done to the front suspension geometry to limit droop/down travel? Besides re-installing the sway bar.

I guess limit straps but they are usually only needed on the full long travel setups and are usually welded on. Or different shocks that have less travel (I don't know the compressed and extended lengths for the boss shocks or I would recommend some shorter ones). Or install some Toyota CVs instead.

 

[pearlj10]

I had the same aftermarket cv shaft from Rock Auto, but on the passenger side, that did the same thing. Swapped both out for Toyota axles (for about $220 per online) and problem was solved. Good luck

 

[jrm]

I had the same issue

before installing aftermarket UCAs. :nod:

 

[tay4R]

I had the same aftermarket cv shaft from Rock Auto, but on the passenger side, that did the same thing. Swapped both out for Toyota axles (for about $220 per online) and problem was solved. Good luck

Yea that's what I'm leaning toward being the issue. Where did you source the Toyota axles from?

before installing aftermarket UCAs. :nod:

I have SPC Light Racing UCAs now. May end up going with something different...camburg or total chaos

 

[blackoutt]

I had this same issue when playing with lifts and came to the conclusion that you can lift it as high as your coilovers will adjust with preload, but it's the topout spacer giving you too much downtravel (droop) that will bind up CV's. The options are to limit downtravel with straps or stops, lessen downtravel by getting a shorter shock or reducing top plate spacing, or find an alternate CV option. Aftermarket CV's (the round body ones) have been known to bind easier than stock tri lobe shaped CV's. There is one long travel company out there that offers inner CV cup machining to increase downtravel but I can't remember who that was for the life of me now. More info on some common shock lengths in this thread. Get me numbers for BOSS and I can add them.


http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/223817-higher-angle-inner-cv-joint-options-4th-gens.html

 

[tay4R]

UPDATE:
Replaced the binding CV with another Cardone from Rockauto. Still binding......but no clunking noise so that's goodish. Definitely going to source OEM axles shortly to solve the binding issue.

But also noticed that a plastic cap around the shaft has been blown off of my BOSS 2.0 shocks. There was a ton of black spray/grime all over the shock too. Wondering if this is affecting the shock now and causing it to droop a little more than before?

Get me numbers for BOSS and I can add them.

I'll have to replace the shock soon and will get you the numbers then.
Hopefully toytec will hook it up as they are just over a year old...or I'm going a different direction to solve my dampening needs.

 

[tay4R]

UPDATE:
Replaced the RockAuto CV with an OEM one from oempartworld.com. $360 for a new CV after taxes and shipping. The cheap CV's c-ring actually didn't compress properly. The diff splines cut grooves in the c-ring and the CV was grinding/vibrating while driving. The OEM axle works perfectly with no binding or noise.

However....still hearing a clunk in the front left suspension. Only at tight turns going slowly (like out of a parking spot/driveway). No clue what is going on still as almost everything on the front has been replaced except for tie rods.

Any thoughts out there are most welcome!

 

[Morphyne]

UPDATE:
Replaced the RockAuto CV with an OEM one from oempartworld.com. $360 for a new CV after taxes and shipping. The cheap CV's c-ring actually didn't compress properly. The diff splines cut grooves in the c-ring and the CV was grinding/vibrating while driving. The OEM axle works perfectly with no binding or noise.

However....still hearing a clunk in the front left suspension. Only at tight turns going slowly (like out of a parking spot/driveway). No clue what is going on still as almost everything on the front has been replaced except for tie rods.

Any thoughts out there are most welcome!

My inspection/suspect list in this order:

Loose bolt somewhere?
Sway bar links
Ball joints
UCAL/CA bushings
Shock
wheel bearing

I had a similar clunking noise after doing work like yours and it turned out my LCA bolts by the ball joint were finger tight...

 

[tay4R]

My inspection/suspect list in this order:

Loose bolt somewhere?
Sway bar links
Ball joints
UNALCA bushings
Shock
wheel bearing

I had a similar clunking noise after doing work like yours and it turned out my LCA bolts by the ball joint were finger tight...

Thanks for the list. Sway bar is removed. LCA bolts are solid. Going to check the LCA ball joints and bushings since they are Mevotech (RockAuto cheapies) that I'm starting to worry about. Should've gone OEM from the beginning for replacing those...

 

[tay4R]

UPDATE:

The OEM CV is holding up much better and no binding/grinding issues at all. Passenger CV is still from rockauto, lots for rust on the outside but holding up well. If it goes I will replace with OEM for sure.

Also, diagnosed the clunk noise as the lower control arm rear cam bolt not being torqued correctly by the alignment shop. A quick tightening and no clunk noise at all and she rides soooo smooth. :dancin:

Thanks for everyone's help and input! Can't get this much info anywhere else!

 

[slimjj]

I has the exact same issue.

Dealership replaced my CV axle with an aftermarket one 3 years ago. After my most recent lift and SPC UCA install, driver's side axle started binding. It would turn about a quarter turn, be hard to turn through for a bit and then spin freely again until it hits the binding spot. I thought a diff drop might help, but then I started thinking about the aftermarket axle and wondered if it could actually be the CV axle itself that's bad.

I lifted it off the ground, put it in neutral and was able to spin the passenger side freely, but driver's side was still binding, so I knew it was the driver's side. Put it in drive and both sides would bind. It helped when I jacked up the driver side so it wasn't at full droop, but I could tell it was still binding while driving due to the drop in gas mileage and the lack of power and a rougher feel.

I skipped trying another aftermarket axle (as it didn't seem to help your situation) and just went back to OEM. Took it to the dealership (against my better judgement) because I didn't want to mess this one up. Something about drivetrains kinda stresses me out.

So, huge bill of course, but they confirmed my suspicion that it was in fact a bad CV axle. They swapped it out with OEM and now I'm a happy camper. No binding, super smooth, lots more power and better gas mileage.