CV axle going bad?

[00Sebby]

At 70k miles I had to replace the left front wheel bearing on my 4R. The bad bearing exhibited the standard whirring sound that would go away on a left turn.

Now at 105k miles, I'm getting a different, deeper rotational sound from the left front that is not affected by turns. I am guessing it is the CV axle. It's not popping or rattling as if it is completely gone, just more of a whirring rumble. And it goes away when the weight shifts. For example, go over a hill or dip in the road and when the vehicle gets lighter after the highpoint the sound goes away for a second.

Since the axle is a cheap part, I want to go ahead and replace it. Where and what brand are the good ones? I know OEM is the default but there are several aftermarket brands available. Some of these have to be good as some are probably made by the same companies. Just want to know if anyone has been down this road with good results.

 

[1engineer]

At 70k miles I had to replace the left front wheel bearing on my 4R. The bad bearing exhibited the standard whirring sound that would go away on a left turn.

Now at 105k miles, I'm getting a different, deeper rotational sound from the left front that is not affected by turns. I am guessing it is the CV axle. It's not popping or rattling as if it is completely gone, just more of a whirring rumble. And it goes away when the weight shifts. For example, go over a hill or dip in the road and when the vehicle gets lighter after the highpoint the sound goes away for a second.

Since the axle is a cheap part, I want to go ahead and replace it. Where and what brand are the good ones? I know OEM is the default but there are several aftermarket brands available. Some of these have to be good as some are probably made by the same companies. Just want to know if anyone has been down this road with good results.

[MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] I believe has some expertise in which axle is better.

 

[Sure Shot]

Did you check the drivers side bearing of the front differential? I just had mine replaced at 22K miles in a '16. They replaced both driver side wheel bearings before figuring it out. It sounded just like what you described. Supposedly there is a Toyota technical bulletin out for it but currently it only covers '10 through '14.

 

[00Sebby]

Did you check the drivers side bearing of the front differential? I just had mine replaced at 22K miles in a '16. They replaced both driver side wheel bearings before figuring it out. It sounded just like what you described. Supposedly there is a Toyota technical bulletin out for it but currently it only covers '10 through '14.

No, I haven't. Did yours make the noise continuously but stop during weight transitions over hills and such?

 

[Antman]

No, I haven't. Did yours make the noise continuously but stop during weight transitions over hills and such?

My experiences...

I have replaced 3 wheel bearings on mine- 2 drivers side and a passenger. Every one exhibited a different noise.

First- driver's side was classic, just like yours. Grinding/whirring noise. Turn left to unload the bearing, sound goes away.

Second- Passenger side never made grinding noise, but a mouse-like squeaking and a loose feeling in the steering wheel. This bearing was in much, much worse shape than the first one I removed. It's amazing the abuse they take without complete failure!

Third- Driver's side again (I didn't replace the dust seal behind the upright so the bearing failed within a year...). This time the bearing only made a grinding noise with NO LOAD applied. When I turned right the sound would go away, turn left it was loud as hell. Weird- I had to put the truck in 4WD and run it in gear on jackstands to confirm...

My point is, there is no definitive noise or pattern that you can rely on for a bad bearing. There are "classic" symptoms and then the oddballs like I experienced.

Good luck- let us know!

 

[JSparky]

Could this be the diff side needle bearing? Someone else could chime in on that but it could be a possibility. And are your cv boots torn/throwing grease at all or is the cv dry on the outside?

 

[p nut]

Do you have a lift?

Regarding brands, only trust one: Toyota. I would get a new or reman (from shops like Raxles). Then get yours rebuilt and keep as a spare.

Autozone/Oreilly/NAPA all have lifetime axles. Too many horror stories of them snapping. At the worst time. Stick with OEM.

 

[wfo9]

Not sure if it is your CV or not, but don't go with an auto parts store brand unless it is just a spare to get you home... They are junk compared to the Toyota ones. CVJ does have true reman.... but not sure the small savings is worth it...

I sort of doubt it is your CV personally.

Try putting it in 4wd and see if that impacts the sound.

If the sound is eliminated in 4wd it is most likely the driver side diff needle bearings.

 

[bamma]

Not sure if it is your CV or not, but don't go with an auto parts store brand unless it is just a spare to get you home... They are junk compared to the Toyota ones. CVJ does have true reman.... but not sure the small savings is worth it...

I sort of doubt it is your CV personally.

Try putting it in 4wd and see if that impacts the sound.

If the sound is eliminated in 4wd it is most likely the driver side diff needle bearings.

Doubt it is the CV, but getting a reman at Napa or Autozone will likely be a rebuilt OEM. The aftermarkets have a round shape (different than the oem).

 

[AirspeedX]

I've heard the NAPA cv axles that have a 555 stamp on them come from Altrom imports (where the oem's are made). Same factory in Japan.

If there is a large enough price difference between these (or honestly, any Napa axle) and OEM - I'll probably go with the NAPA axles and buy an extra for a spare. Lifetime warranty is worth it for me! I don't do hardcore rock crawling like some of you folks and don't see myself popping one on the trail, and if I do I'll be prepared.

 

[Jeremy556]

[MENTION=78273]Jeremy556[/MENTION] I believe has some expertise in which axle is better.

Mostly just observation and a little bit of research, no professional knowledge.

My bet would be the driver's side diff bearings. East Coast Gear supply sells a bushing to replace the bearing for a cheap, permanent fix.

I wouldn't touch an aftermarket axle, except maybe as a trail spare.

 

[p nut]

I've heard the NAPA cv axles that have a 555 stamp on them come from Altrom imports (where the oem's are made). Same factory in Japan...

sNAPA

 

[wfo9]

I've heard the NAPA cv axles that have a 555 stamp on them come from Altrom imports (where the oem's are made). Same factory in Japan.

If there is a large enough price difference between these (or honestly, any Napa axle) and OEM - I'll probably go with the NAPA axles and buy an extra for a spare. Lifetime warranty is worth it for me! I don't do hardcore rock crawling like some of you folks and don't see myself popping one on the trail, and if I do I'll be prepared.

Any CV axle you buy at an auto parts store is only useful as a spare. They don't last long at all, but many people have to learn the hard way. I've seen so many of them let go. Have yet to witness an OEM let go. I know they do, but the failure rate is nothing like the junk aftermarket ones.

 

[AirspeedX]

Any CV axle you buy at an auto parts store is only useful as a spare. They don't last long at all, but many people have to learn the hard way. I've seen so many of them let go. Have yet to witness an OEM let go. I know they do, but the failure rate is nothing like the junk aftermarket ones.

I appreciate the input @wfo9. You're obviously talking from first-hand experience. There's a saying that's been repeated in my flying career: "Learn from the mistake of others. You won't live long enough to make them all yourself."

I haven't been into wheeling long enough to see any broken axles (mind you I wheel with mostly Jeeps). Haven't busted one yet but planning ahead here. Looks like I'll suck it up and get the axle from the dealer when it comes time.

 

[Sure Shot]

No, I haven't. Did yours make the noise continuously but stop during weight transitions over hills and such?

My bad diff bearing made the most noise between 10 to 30 mph. It would fade at higher speeds. The frequency of the noise changed when turning but not when shifting vehicle weight. The noise disappeared when put into 4wd. These were the biggest clues that it wasn't a wheel bearing but something driveline related.

 

[00Sebby]

Mine's a constant vrrvrrvrr that gets faster or slower with the vehicle speed. It only stops when the load on the suspension is reduced. I'm going to start with the cv axle once I figure out what to buy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[1engineer]

Mine's a constant vrrvrrvrr that gets faster or slower with the vehicle speed. It only stops when the load on the suspension is reduced. I'm going to start with the cv axle once I figure out what to buy.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. What happens when you put it in 4WD?

2. Several knowledgeable members have stressed (in this thread) that aftermarket axles are only suited at best for temporary repairs. They also state that OEM are the the best and none have broken to their knowledge. Why would you choose something else? These are guys who push the limits too.

 

[00Sebby]

'Cause tapatalk.[emoji28] I got one notification and responded to it but got no notifications of the other contributions. When I get to a real computer I will read everything. Can't put it in 4wd as it's at the airport and I'm not. [emoji106]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[00Sebby]

Could this be the diff side needle bearing? Someone else could chime in on that but it could be a possibility. And are your cv boots torn/throwing grease at all or is the cv dry on the outside?

No signs of CV boots leaking. The sound reminds me of the front axle u-joints on a Jeep going bad... before they're bad enough to actually pop and rattle. That's why I'm thinking CV axle. It makes the sound from parking lot speeds and is noticeable at 80+ mph. Almost sounds like a cupped or noisy tire but rotation doesn't make a difference. It's always on the left front. When I get home I will try putting it in 4wd to see if there is a difference. :noidea:

 

[rodneyk]

If its a humming noise that resembles the noise that an aggressive mud terrain tire would make, and it goes away in 4wd, it's probably the front diff.

The original TSB: T-SB-0175-10 REV1
Calls for replacement of the entire front carrier assembly on 2010 - 2011 4Runners.

There's a new TSB: T-SB-0026-15 that affects the whole range of V6 part time 4wd platforms. It appears to be a faulty drivers side needle bearing in the diff.

Unfortunately for me, I bought my 2010 Trail Edition used last year, and the noise popped up about 3 months after I put my lift in. Went to the dealer to check and sure enough, the TSB applies to my truck, but it hadn't been done because the noise never came up. I was SOL because my powertrain warranty had already expired.

This thread on Toyota Nation gives some good information and an aftermarket fix to the problem. New Front Differential Bearing Vibration TSB You'll find a link to the new TSB posted there as well.

Good luck!