CV Axle install advice

[ultimatt]

Going to attempt the install myself...

Everything looks straightforward...but I can't find any really good pics or video of people actually knocking the new axles in...

Couple of questions...

1. I assume that the new axle will go in enough by hand that you can tell if the splines are aligning...correct?

2. Looks like the best method would be to have a long pry bar or very long big screwdriver to be able to hit it from the wheel well area to get some decent force on it...is it better to put the bar on the top or bottom of the axle at the diff...does it make any difference.

3. Would it help to have someone under the vehicle to hold/center the axle when you hit it?

4. How likely am I to damage a seal and cause a leak...any tips to avoid this?

Thanks.

 

[Black798]

1.) Yes you can get it in far enough by hand to tell if the splines are lined up.

2.) The only way you will get the axle all the way in is by hitting it. There should be three little flanges on the inner joint casing, put a prey bar right there and give it a good smack, you'll be able to tell when its in all the way, should only take 1 or 2 hits. It also makes no difference where you hit from but its easiest from the top.

3.) It would help to have another set of hands but its totally doable with one person.

4.) Not very likely, just make sure there inst any dirt or grime on the sealing surface or the seal itself and be mindful when moving the axle that you dont side load the seal or hit it with the axle splines and you should be good to go. IF your really worried about it pick up a new seal and just swap it in while you have everything apart.

 

[fourfive]

Going to attempt the install myself...

Everything looks straightforward...but I can't find any really good pics or video of people actually knocking the new axles in...

2. Looks like the best method would be to have a long pry bar or very long big screwdriver to be able to hit it from the wheel well area to get some decent force on it...is it better to put the bar on the top or bottom of the axle at the diff...does it make any difference.

I had to hammer on the axle nut end with a 2lb plastic hammer to get the axle in all the way. I pushed it in by hand as far as I could then gently hammered it in the rest of the way. I used zip ties to suspend the axle and to keep it as horizontal as possible before hammering it in. I tried using a pry bar and hammer method but couldn't get it seated all the way. Heres a pic:

 

[alumarine]

Napa seal number for the passenger side is 18478.

 

[mtbtim]

The prying to get the CV axle out and the pounding to get it back in are due to the c-clip on the inner shaft that seats into the differential. When the axle is installed correctly, the c-clip sits behind a flange inside the differential.

The FSM suggests that you turn the c-clip with the opening pointing downward when you install the CV axle to make installation easier.

If you're not in a hurry, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are going to do a CV Axle Removal, Reboot with Extended Boot Mod, and Replacement this week and we'll be making a video of it.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Having the clip pointed down does make it easier. Of the 50+ CV joints I have replaced in time, coating the new splines with a little gear oil helps.

On the passenger side of the 4runner I can just manually push the CV into place. At 5'7" I am not Hercules. On the driver's side I usually take a pry bar, position the tip on the most inner lip of the axle and tap it in with a hammer. As in the posted pic by [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION], you want the CV axle as parallel to the ground as possible. Be cautious on hitting it on the end though.

 

[fourfive]

Having the clip pointed down does make it easier. Of the 50+ CV joints I have replaced in time, coating the new splines with a little gear oil helps.

On the passenger side of the 4runner I can just manually push the CV into place. At 5'7" I am not Hercules. On the driver's side I usually take a pry bar, position the tip on the most inner lip of the axle and tap it in with a hammer. As in the posted pic by [MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION], you want the CV axle as parallel to the ground as possible. Be cautious on hitting it on the end though.

Yup and I think you were the one that gave me the tip about using the zip ties to keep the axle parallel to the ground which worked great. I have gotten lucky a couple times where i was almost able to seat the axle in by hand...probably bc the c-clip was lined up perfectly. I try to avoid hammering on the end of the axle and only use it as a last resort.

 

[ZionXIX]

If you're not in a hurry, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are going to do a CV Axle Removal, Reboot with Extended Boot Mod, and Replacement this week and we'll be making a video of it.

Have you considered rebuilding a CV axle too?

 

[mtbtim]

No, haven't considered rebuilding a CV axle. I guess it would involve just replacing both joints at the ends of the axle, replacing dust seals and keeping the original axle shaft. It wouldn't be hard. I just wonder if it would be much of a savings over just buying a whole new CV axle because you'd be buying a reboot kit, new joints and dust seals.

The inner joint that you remove for the reboot procedure looks like you could replace individual parts that are worn but the outer joint, from what I could see on videos doesn't look like an item easy to service.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[fblainen11]

The prying to get the CV axle out and the pounding to get it back in are due to the c-clip on the inner shaft that seats into the differential. When the axle is installed correctly, the c-clip sits behind a flange inside the differential.

The FSM suggests that you turn the c-clip with the opening pointing downward when you install the CV axle to make installation easier.

If you're not in a hurry, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are going to do a CV Axle Removal, Reboot with Extended Boot Mod, and Replacement this week and we'll be making a video of it.

C-clip opening facing downward is in the FSM. I pushed mine in by hand on my land cruiser. It's just a small pop into place. Used a little grease to keep it in place and facing downward.

No need to hammer.

 

[mtbtim]

Cool. I was planning on putting a little grease on the c-clip too to keep in place. I heard it or read it somewhere but I'm glad you confirmed this is a good technique to use.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[ultimatt]

Thanks guys...I'm going to give the passenger side a try and see how it goes. I'm also going to do the LBJ at the same time...

Once I get it done I will post a follow-up

 

[LittleCaesar]

If you haven't already go ahead and grab some new LBJ bolts at the dealer too.

If one goes off road frequently, I'd rebuild the OEM CVs. If not, grab some new NAPA ones.

 

[ultimatt]

If you haven't already go ahead and grab some new LBJ bolts at the dealer too.

If one goes off road frequently, I'd rebuild the OEM CVs. If not, grab some new NAPA ones.

What is the logic behind the LBJ bolts? Abundance of caution? This is a southern truck with absolutely no rust.

 

[LittleCaesar]

From what the dealer told me at the parts counter years ago, added strength. For the $10 it cost me for new ones, it kept my mind at ease and aided the blue loctite to adhere to the threads in the LBJ better as well.

 

[LOBO79]

I just installed a set of front axles on my 96 and the driver side had a small gap between the housing and the axle and i cant seem to get it any better. I tried removing the axle to put the clip at the bottom and it seems to be in and doesn't want to come out, but there is still up and down play in the axle. does anyone have a picture of their drive side axle from underneath?

 

[LittleCaesar]

I just installed a set of front axles on my 96 and the driver side had a small gap between the housing and the axle and i cant seem to get it any better. I tried removing the axle to put the clip at the bottom and it seems to be in and doesn't want to come out, but there is still up and down play in the axle. does anyone have a picture of their drive side axle from underneath?

Got a pic?

Probably between an 1/8 and a 1/4” depending on what remanned CV you used. If you felt the clip snap in, and the front diff isn’t leaking, I would have zero worries.

 

[mtbtim]

Since I never got back to this thread and post our video on the subject, I reckon I'll do it now. Better late than never.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vcCT4UgFUTw" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[jlaho]

I have not replaced CV axles on my 4Runner, but have on my Corolla. A couple tips I have combined with tips from others:
- Grease the c-clip and position it as previous stated by some of the others. This helped alot.
- I found that hitting the outboard ends of the axles, where the axle nut goes, with a hammer to be a bit awkward. Instead, I started the inboard splines of the axle into the diff. Once I felt the first portion of splines engage, I supported the inner bearing (part that mates to the diff) with one hand and held it in place. With the other hand, I held and pulled the outer bearing (part that mates to the hub) outwards (without over-extending the inner boot/bearing) and with one quick motion, slid it inwards to seat the c-clip.

Essentially, I used the inner bearing as a slide hammer (gently, but firmly) to seat the c-clip into its groove. Its the same principal as the hammer method (using a shock load to seat the c-clip), just one less tool to have to use. I'm sure the hammer method can work well for you, but I found this method to be better at least for me.

Good luck!

 

[shadow247]

All the info in this thread is great, but I have a huge tip that everyone is missing. You want to have the truck leaning so that you don't lose any Diff Fluid, especially if you have replaced the fluid very recently. Plus it's a PITA to fill up.

Just jack up the opposite side you a working on first, and put the jack stand on the lowest setting that will hit the frame and keep the tire just off the ground.

Now raise the other side, and put it 2-3 notches above the other side. It's not dangerous if you use 6 ton stands, and the height difference is juuuuust enough to keep the diff fluid from leaking out and making a huge mess. The first time I did mine, I lost most of the CV fluid because I used a 2 post lift so the truck was leveled in the air. Having 1 side about 2-3 inches higher than the other is perfect and makes this a really smooth job.

Last year I did it this way and lost 0 fluid. I had changed the fluid about 20k prior, and I don't use the 4wd that much, so I didn't see a need to waste any fluid and mess around with refilling the differential when the fluid was fairly fresh.