CV Axle - reboard outboard boot

[joshik]

My outboard CV axle boot is torn. You think it's doable to reboot without removing the entire axle from the diff? I rebooted my CV axles a few years ago so I'm familiar with the process (will need a refresher from youtube tho).

While I have stuff apart anything else you think I should replace? It's an 03 V8 with 260k miles. I'll be doing a brake job at the least.

 

[y=mx+b]

My outboard CV axle boot is torn. You think it's doable to reboot without removing the entire axle from the diff? I rebooted my CV axles a few years ago so I'm familiar with the process (will need a refresher from youtube tho).

While I have stuff apart anything else you think I should replace? It's an 03 V8 with 260k miles. I'll be doing a brake job at the least.

Yes, you would remove everything except the inner bearing cup from the diff. I have a writeup on CV replacement if you'd like a refresher: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures). I also have a writeup on my reboot process with info like PNs of the upgraded 5th gen boot kit, Stainless worm drive CV clamps, a good tool for removing the tripod snap ring suggested by Montijo505, and some more pictures of everything: CV Reboot Tutorial with Boot Stretch (80+ Pictures)

Essentially, you would do all steps up to step 4 in the CV replacement writeup, where I removed the axle


Then you would remove the knuckle side as normal


From here, on the inner joint, separate the inner tripod from the bearing cup (which will still be in the diff). You would need to remove the inner boot, so I would recommend just changing both boots and replacing the clamps with stainless worm drive clamps (see reboot for PNs and where to order CV worm clamps).
For the diff side joint, this is the Outer clamp and then inner clamp on an OEM CV. Pics for reference on how I got them apart


Separate the tripod, and get the axle and tripod out. Don't have very good pics of how this would look like, since I didn't exactly do the way of leaving the inner bearing cup in the diff, but hopefully the pictures can help you to piece the process together


The you can follow the reboot tutorial and do everything as normal. Assembly would be the opposite of install

 

[joshik]

Yes, you would remove everything except the inner bearing cup from the diff. I have a writeup on CV replacement if you'd like a refresher: CV Replacement Tutorial with New Seals (120+ Pictures). I also have a writeup on my reboot process with info like PNs of the upgraded 5th gen boot kit, Stainless worm drive CV clamps, a good tool for removing the tripod snap ring suggested by Montijo505, and some more pictures of everything: CV Reboot Tutorial with Boot Stretch (80+ Pictures)

Essentially, you would do all steps up to step 4 in the CV replacement writeup, where I removed the axle


Then you would remove the knuckle side as normal


From here, on the inner joint, separate the inner tripod from the bearing cup (which will still be in the diff). You would need to remove the inner boot, so I would recommend just changing both boots and replacing the clamps with stainless worm drive clamps (see reboot for PNs and where to order CV worm clamps).
For the diff side joint, this is the Outer clamp and then inner clamp on an OEM CV. Pics for reference on how I got them apart


Separate the tripod, and get the axle and tripod out. Don't have very good pics of how this would look like, since I didn't exactly do the way of leaving the inner bearing cup in the diff, but hopefully the pictures can help you to piece the process together


The you can follow the reboot tutorial and do everything as normal. Assembly would be the opposite of install

dang thanks for the detailed info! This is super helpful!

i went with the worm drive hose clamps last time around too after I did a horrible job installing the factory clamps. I got the stainless clamps with the rounded edges. I will be reusing them!

 

[y=mx+b]

dang thanks for the detailed info! This is super helpful!

i went with the worm drive hose clamps last time around too after I did a horrible job installing the factory clamps. I got the stainless clamps with the rounded edges. I will be reusing them!

No problem, I gotta put all these pics I have to work haha. I like seeing pictures before I dive into a job, so I try to grab them for others that may want to see as well.

Good call on the worm drive clamps, past Joshik was definetly looking out for future Joshik!

 

[joshik]

No problem, I gotta put all these pics I have to work haha. I like seeing pictures before I dive into a job, so I try to grab them for others that may want to see as well.

Good call on the worm drive clamps, past Joshik was definetly looking out for future Joshik!

yeh! i originally got the idea from jfry088. When I did my last reboot, I had major spewage when the boot compressed. I didn't clamp those factory clamps tight enough. Instead of ripping everything out to reclamp/reboot, I was able to easily take off the old clamps, squeeze in some replacement grease into the boots and fit on the new worm drive clamps all without disassembling anything!

 

[BagiMT]

If you end up removing the whole CV I found the easiest methods to get the axle out of the diff is by hitting it with a large screw driver from the inside as shown in the video below. You will have to remove your skid plate but it took only about 3-4 good hits with a mallet while with the breaker bar I had tried for probably 15 min without success.

Removal/Install of 2016 Tacoma CV Axle, Bonus: ECGS Bushing install - YouTube

If you do the reboot without removing the inner bearing cup please give feedback on how it went, I could not find much info on that but assumed it would be much messier than removing the whole CV and reboot it on a bench. And last, if you end up replacing the outer and inner boot get the 5th gen kit that comes with an improved inner boot and fits perfectly.

 

[joshik]

If you end up removing the whole CV I found the easiest methods to get the axle out of the diff is by hitting it with a large screw driver from the inside as shown in the video below. You will have to remove your skid plate but it took only about 3-4 good hits with a mallet while with the breaker bar I had tried for probably 15 min without success.

Removal/Install of 2016 Tacoma CV Axle, Bonus: ECGS Bushing install - YouTube

If you do the reboot without removing the inner bearing cup please give feedback on how it went, I could not find much info on that but assumed it would be much messier than removing the whole CV and reboot it on a bench. And last, if you end up replacing the outer and inner boot get the 5th gen kit that comes with an improved inner boot and fits perfectly.

yeh, i was still debating if it'd be more hassle/mess leaving the inner cup in than taking out the whole axle. :T

I've removed both axles before and I prob did the prybar and hammer method. I could definitely reuse to inner boot as it is still plenty good and I only need to loosen the hose clamp.

As for the new outer boot, so the OEM 5th gen outer boot is a direct fit and better option?

 

[y=mx+b]

yeh, i was still debating if it'd be more hassle/mess leaving the inner cup in than taking out the whole axle. :T

I've removed both axles before and I prob did the prybar and hammer method. I could definitely reuse to inner boot as it is still plenty good and I only need to loosen the hose clamp.

As for the new outer boot, so the OEM 5th gen outer boot is a direct fit and better option?

The 5th gen inner boot is a much better plastic boot with more ribs, compared to the 4th gen rubber inner. I think the outers are the same. [MENTION=145671]BagiMT[/MENTION] very kindly left some awesome pictures on the writeup. This should be a direct link to those photos: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...l-boot-stretch-80-pictures-2.html#post3538618

 

[joshik]

If you end up removing the whole CV I found the easiest methods to get the axle out of the diff is by hitting it with a large screw driver from the inside as shown in the video below. You will have to remove your skid plate but it took only about 3-4 good hits with a mallet while with the breaker bar I had tried for probably 15 min without success.

Removal/Install of 2016 Tacoma CV Axle, Bonus: ECGS Bushing install - YouTube

If you do the reboot without removing the inner bearing cup please give feedback on how it went, I could not find much info on that but assumed it would be much messier than removing the whole CV and reboot it on a bench. And last, if you end up replacing the outer and inner boot get the 5th gen kit that comes with an improved inner boot and fits perfectly.

Got the axle out tonight. It was pretty easy to do without removing the inner cup. I guess I didn't use a wormdrive clamp on the inner boot. I recall now that I only did the outboard because it leaked after I rebooted it last time. So I used a prybar and some taps from a hammer to pry open clamp part that folds over to hold the clamp band together. It was easy. I slid off the inner boot from the cup and out the axle came.

Instead of diff oil dripping out I had grease dripping out from the cup.

So, I dont recall what the grease was like when I put it in, but was it this runny? It is really watery. Doesn't look like it has water in it, but its just really runny. I guess I'll see tomorrow when I open up the boot kit and check the new bottle of grease.

Imma finish up tomorrow. I just spent a lil time taking it apart after the kids went to bed. Fun part will be regreasing the tripod and the cup with it still in the diff LOL

 

[y=mx+b]

Got the axle out tonight. It was pretty easy to do without removing the inner cup. I guess I didn't use a wormdrive clamp on the inner boot. I recall now that I only did the outboard because it leaked after I rebooted it last time. So I used a prybar and some taps from a hammer to pry open clamp part that folds over to hold the clamp band together. It was easy. I slid off the inner boot from the cup and out the axle came.

Instead of diff oil dripping out I had grease dripping out from the cup.

So, I dont recall what the grease was like when I put it in, but was it this runny? It is really watery. Doesn't look like it has water in it, but its just really runny. I guess I'll see tomorrow when I open up the boot kit and check the new bottle of grease.


Imma finish up tomorrow. I just spent a lil time taking it apart after the kids went to bed. Fun part will be regreasing the tripod and the cup with it still in the diff LOL

The brand new color is like a lighter brown/yellow color. Its not runny either, was a regular grease consistency, like peanut butter. Reboot kit should have the new grease in tubes that are plastic water bottle sized, yellow grease on the inner, black grease in the outer.

 

[joshik]

The brand new color is like a lighter brown/yellow color. Its not runny either, was a regular grease consistency, like peanut butter. Reboot kit should have the new grease in tubes that are plastic water bottle sized, yellow grease on the inner, black grease in the outer.

sweet. Thx!

 

[joshik]

The 5th gen inner boot is a much better plastic boot with more ribs, compared to the 4th gen rubber inner. I think the outers are the same. [MENTION=145671]BagiMT[/MENTION] very kindly left some awesome pictures on the writeup. This should be a direct link to those photos: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...l-boot-stretch-80-pictures-2.html#post3538618

So i'm done putting the axle back in. With the cup being still in the diff, it was super hard to get the inner boot to slip over the outter edge of the cup. I was using the new 5th gen boot kit. I just could not do it. I even propped up the rotor to flatten out the angle of the axle. I was able to get it to slip over the cup but it would not stay on very well for me to get tighten the clamp. I even pushed the outter portion of the boot inward past the ridge on the axle. That didn't help either.

I went back and grabbed my old inner boot and noticed it is quite a bit longer. I pulled the axle back out, took off the 5th gen inner boot, and put the old boot back in (relatively new, few years old). I spooned out all the grease and transfered it to the old boot. I then slipped the axle back in and it was MUCH easier to get the boot to slip over the cup. It stayed on no prob too. I clamped it down and done!

I'm not sure how the 5th gen boot works with the 4th gen axle. It is quite a bit shorter. With the boot stretch, I can imagine the boot constantly wants to unstretch. I'm sure the clamps will hold it in place but still. I'm sure doing the inner boot with the entire assembly on the table would have been much easier though.

I say, with the OEM 4th gen boot, rebooting without removing the cup is totally doable. When the axle was out, wiped out the old grease from the cup with shop towels, then sprayed it with some brake parts cleaner and finished wiping it up. Easy. Was easy to reach too.

 

[y=mx+b]

So i'm done putting the axle back in. With the cup being still in the diff, it was super hard to get the inner boot to slip over the outter edge of the cup. I was using the new 5th gen boot kit. I just could not do it. I even propped up the rotor to flatten out the angle of the axle. I was able to get it to slip over the cup but it would not stay on very well for me to get tighten the clamp. I even pushed the outter portion of the boot inward past the ridge on the axle. That didn't help either.

I went back and grabbed my old inner boot and noticed it is quite a bit longer. I pulled the axle back out, took off the 5th gen inner boot, and put the old boot back in (relatively new, few years old). I spooned out all the grease and transfered it to the old boot. I then slipped the axle back in and it was MUCH easier to get the boot to slip over the cup. It stayed on no prob too. I clamped it down and done!

I'm not sure how the 5th gen boot works with the 4th gen axle. It is quite a bit shorter. With the boot stretch, I can imagine the boot constantly wants to unstretch. I'm sure the clamps will hold it in place but still. I'm sure doing the inner boot with the entire assembly on the table would have been much easier though.

I say, with the OEM 4th gen boot, rebooting without removing the cup is totally doable. When the axle was out, wiped out the old grease from the cup with shop towels, then sprayed it with some brake parts cleaner and finished wiping it up. Easy. Was easy to reach too.

Crap man, sorry about that. I feel bad that I recommended it, and it didn't work. It seemed to work well for iBagMT and the inner boot seemed better in his pics and description. I've seen it done a few times with good results from guys over on facebook, but good to know it doesn't always work out. Wonder if maybe the dealer gave wrong part, mislabeled part, etc?

Good to know the method of leaving the inner bearing cup in the diff works well, the oil seal is a pain and thats a nice way to bypass any of that trauma.

 

[BagiMT]

So i'm done putting the axle back in. With the cup being still in the diff, it was super hard to get the inner boot to slip over the outter edge of the cup. I was using the new 5th gen boot kit. I just could not do it. I even propped up the rotor to flatten out the angle of the axle. I was able to get it to slip over the cup but it would not stay on very well for me to get tighten the clamp. I even pushed the outter portion of the boot inward past the ridge on the axle. That didn't help either.

I went back and grabbed my old inner boot and noticed it is quite a bit longer. I pulled the axle back out, took off the 5th gen inner boot, and put the old boot back in (relatively new, few years old). I spooned out all the grease and transfered it to the old boot. I then slipped the axle back in and it was MUCH easier to get the boot to slip over the cup. It stayed on no prob too. I clamped it down and done!

I'm not sure how the 5th gen boot works with the 4th gen axle. It is quite a bit shorter. With the boot stretch, I can imagine the boot constantly wants to unstretch. I'm sure the clamps will hold it in place but still. I'm sure doing the inner boot with the entire assembly on the table would have been much easier though.

I say, with the OEM 4th gen boot, rebooting without removing the cup is totally doable. When the axle was out, wiped out the old grease from the cup with shop towels, then sprayed it with some brake parts cleaner and finished wiping it up. Easy. Was easy to reach too.

That is really strange. I had no problem putting the 5th gen boot on (of course with the axle out). If you look at the picture below, they are exactly the same length, the 5th gen is just a different material and has more fins. I have mine actually stretched beyond the grove like I used to do with the old boot. Have not been off-road yet but around town it definitely has not moved.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

 

[joshik]

Crap man, sorry about that. I feel bad that I recommended it, and it didn't work. It seemed to work well for iBagMT and the inner boot seemed better in his pics and description. I've seen it done a few times with good results from guys over on facebook, but good to know it doesn't always work out. Wonder if maybe the dealer gave wrong part, mislabeled part, etc?

Good to know the method of leaving the inner bearing cup in the diff works well, the oil seal is a pain and thats a nice way to bypass any of that trauma.

nawh no worries man. it all worked out.

The part number is correct. The whole kit is bagged in one large bag with the part label on the outside. I checked iBagMT post again and u can see in the pic that the 5th gen inner boot is shorter. I'm sure its totally doable, but when the entire axle is on the bench.

 

[joshik]

That is really strange. I had no problem putting the 5th gen boot on (of course with the axle out). If you look at the picture below, they are exactly the same length, the 5th gen is just a different material and has more fins. I have mine actually stretched beyond the grove like I used to do with the old boot. Have not been off-road yet but around town it definitely has not moved.

Sent from my HTC 10 using Tapatalk

yeh your pic is like how my 5th gen and 4th boot look. Lke you said, with it on the bench prob obviously totally doable.

But it was night and day when trying to boot it with the cup still in the diff which shows that there is definitely some strain and stretch going on with the 5th gen boot on the axle. 4th gen boot slipped on with very little effort. I'm wondering if the 5th gen cup diameter is slightly smaller too. So slight that you can still force fit the 5th gen boot onto the 4th gen axle cup. Also, you can see that on the 5th gen boot, there is less overlap of the boot over the cup.

Regardless, now we know we can easily reboot without taking out the cup. And if you are going to use the 5th gen boot kit, remove the WHOLE AXLE. LOL