CV Axle Removal - Slide Hammer Fork Adapter

Buckaroo

Member
I am going to buy a CV Axle Removal Fork for my slide hammer. I think the ones that are 48mm wide are not big enough for the T4R (OTC 7507 or CTA 4245). I think I need a wider opening like the CTA 1040 (63.5mm). Might still not be wide enough. Can anyone confirm?
 
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I am going to buy a CV Axle Removal Fork for my slide hammer. I think the ones that are 48mm wide are not big enough for the T4R (OTC 7507 or CTA 4245). I think I need a wider opening like the CTA 1040 (63.5mm). Might still not be wide enough. Can anyone confirm?

Have no idea, but I can confirm you don't need that to get the axle out. You can pry where the axle meets the diff with a pry bar, just watch the dust shield. You can use a BFH and a drift on the flat spots on the inner housing. That's what they are there for. If you go the hammer method, don't take huge swings, just solid, quick taps while keeping pressure/pushing the drift (or a cold chisel). Big pounding hits will just cause it to bounce back . It also helps to have a helper hold the outer end so the axle is roughly level, or tie it up with a bungee or something. The weight of the unsupported, outer end pulling the axle down just contributes to the inner shaft and C-ring binding.
 
Have no idea, but I can confirm you don't need that to get the axle out. You can pry where the axle meets the diff with a pry bar, just watch the dust shield. You can use a BFH and a drift on the flat spots on the inner housing. That's what they are there for. If you go the hammer method, don't take huge swings, just solid, quick taps while keeping pressure/pushing the drift (or a cold chisel). Big pounding hits will just cause it to bounce back . It also helps to have a helper hold the outer end so the axle is roughly level, or tie it up with a bungee or something. The weight of the unsupported, outer end pulling the axle down just contributes to the inner shaft and C-ring binding.

Thanks - I have removed and installed a few CV joint axles in the past and understand the drill. In my younger days, I didn't have the money to buy specialty tools but now have a few dollars so don't mind spending a little bit to make things easier in my old age- the fork attachment I just bought was $25 and will be here today. That said, still don't have a lift,
 
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Thanks - I did look at them and if I didn't already have the slide hammer, I might have gone that way. I am just replacing the seal and am planning on reusing the CV Axle so I am trying not to beat it up trying to get it out. I want to avoid bending up that light sheet metal shielding around the shaft next to the diff that [MENTION=77364]bob3dsf[/MENTION] pointed out.
 
when i was swapping the axles out with new ones, pry bar and everyone elses just hit with a hammer was scratching them up pretty bad. got the forks in and literally slide it in, couple taps of the hammer and bam axles pop right out, so their definitely simple and worth the bucks. everybody has their preferences thought, both handle the job easily.
 
Thanks - I have removed and installed a few CV joint axles in the past and understand the drill. In my younger days, I didn't have the money to buy specialty tools but now have a few dollars so don't mind spending a little bit to make things easier in my old age- the fork attachment I just bought was $25 and will be here today. That said, still don't have a lift,

Which did you end up buying and how did it work out?
 
Which did you end up buying and how did it work out?

I bought the CTA 1040 Large Adapter for my 5 lb OTC slide hammer. It has a 63mm wide opening which wasn't wide enough to slip over the CV Axle inboard hub (which does differ by manufacturer). I ground it out to 67.5mm wide and it could get a marginal grip on it but I did not have enough oomph to break it free. Maybe if I had an extension for the slide hammer to get more travel on the weight, it would have worked but at that point I was done (and a little pissed). So....I did it the old fashioned way - used my pry bar on the back side and a 3 lb sledge, gave it a couple of good whacks and it came free and avoided bending up the sheet metal shield. So someday, if I live long enough, I may find a more elegant method of removing CV Axles....maybe I will try the forks next time!
 
I bought the CTA 1040 Large Adapter for my 5 lb OTC slide hammer. It has a 63mm wide opening which wasn't wide enough to slip over the CV Axle inboard hub (which does differ by manufacturer). I ground it out to 67.5mm wide and it could get a marginal grip on it but I did not have enough oomph to break it free. Maybe if I had an extension for the slide hammer to get more travel on the weight, it would have worked but at that point I was done (and a little pissed). So....I did it the old fashioned way - used my pry bar on the back side and a 3 lb sledge, gave it a couple of good whacks and it came free and avoided bending up the sheet metal shield. So someday, if I live long enough, I may find a more elegant method of removing CV Axles....maybe I will try the forks next time!

Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm in the process of refurbing my CV axle and wanted to know if you had to drop the middle skid plate (the one that covers the oil pan) or were able to get tools in there with the plate on. I ask b/c I not only can't get in there with a chisel and hammer, but the two front bolts on my skid plate are cooked and it ain't coming off without destruction.

If I can shimmy the fork or slide hammer in there from the outside, instead of hammering from the inside, I might have a better time of it.
 
Sorry for reviving an old thread, but I'm in the process of refurbing my CV axle and wanted to know if you had to drop the middle skid plate (the one that covers the oil pan) or were able to get tools in there with the plate on. I ask b/c I not only can't get in there with a chisel and hammer, but the two front bolts on my skid plate are cooked and it ain't coming off without destruction.

If I can shimmy the fork or slide hammer in there from the outside, instead of hammering from the inside, I might have a better time of it.

I'm sure I dropped both the skid plates. I think to get behind it with the pry bar & hammer, you would need to drop the middle one as well. I think you could likely get a slide hammer on the axle without dropping it if you could find the right adapter. Not very much clearance in there to move that slide weight back and forth. I could not get a hard enough whack to break it free with the short travel I had. Maybe if you have more muscles, heavier slide or an extension to get more travel, you could make it work.

This is the slide hammer I was using....
9-Way Slide Hammer Puller Set | OTC Tools

This is the extension I probably would have bought if I had to.....comments on Amazon indicate lots of folks use it for this purpose - pulling CV axles....
Slide Hammer Extension | OTC Tools
 
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I’ve got the hub off the outside axle so maybe I’ll have clearance to use the slide hammer. I’m going to check the parts store for the loaner tool since I have nothing to lose.

EDIT: My local store didn't have the slide hammer adapter so I ended up getting the tuning fork style tool and it worked well. I ended up not having to cut the skid plate off and was able to shimmy the tool up against the inner bell and diff on both sides through a gap in the skid plate from the front of the car.
 
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