CV Axle Replacement Advice/Opinions Needed

Kamber

New member
Hey fellas, so I'm looking for some advice on how to best go about remedying my current situation.

First off, I have a 2008 4.0L 6-Cyl 4WD SR5 with ~100k on the odometer. It's never done any serious offroading and has been driven on paved roads for nearly 100% of it's life.

Here's the backstory (rather lengthy, I know; my apologies):

Up until last weekend, everything on the truck was bone stock.

I'm not very mechanically inclined, but it just so happens that my good friend who I've spent the past 2 years in the Army with worked for BMW, Lexus, and Toyota as a tech for 12 years before enlisting. He's pretty much my go-to guy for any work that needs to be done on the car.

I noticed last month that my rotors & pads were all in pretty dire need of replacement. Seeing as how it's getting up there in miles now, I decided it was a good time as any to replace some suspension parts and do some routine maintenance under the hood as well (water pump, serpentine, thermostat, radiator hoses, battery, diff/engine oil, fluid flushes, etc.).

Out of all the stuff I ordered, the pads/rotors & shocks/struts/springs came in last week, so we got to doing the work this past Saturday (just to clarify; the brakes and suspension pieces were the only things installed, everything else I ordered is arriving later this week so none of the other items have been put in yet).

This was the kit I bought from ToyTec (884's up front and ToyTec Superflex in the rear, chose to forgo the front diff drop kit after reading that the general consensus agreed that it wasn't needed, especially for the small amount of lift I chose to go with):
OME full suspension -- Click here for details

We got everything installed on Saturday, and I was very happy with how much better the ride quality felt with the truck sitting on new suspension pieces.

On Sunday morning, I noticed some axle grease spray-off in my front-passenger-side wheel well. After getting down to take a look, there is axle grease everywhere around the passenger-side undercarriage. Upon further inspection.. what do you know, the passenger side inner CV boot (one closest to the engine) is torn right where it clamps to the shaft connecting both boots (excuse my poor description and terminology, I'm not very versed in the correct nomenclature of these parts)! I was surprised because when we had it up on jack stands to do the brake and suspension work the day prior, there was no axle grease anywhere in sight. At first I thought that this might have happened due to the lift and not purchasing/installing a front diff drop kit, but then after doing some research it's a common point of failure for 4Runner CV boots in general. From what I've read, it's my understanding that torn CV boots COULD be the possible result of not having a front diff drop installed, but if that were the case the location of the tear would be different than what I'm experiencing, correct? (I've attached a photo at the bottom of the thread to make up for my less-than-stellar description of the torn area)

I went over and checked the driver side, and it looks like the rubber on that inner boot is "getting there" in the same spot as well, albeit it's just cracking and not completely torn yet. There's small dribblets of axle grease around it, but not nearly as bad as my passenger side where it's spraying all over the place.

So, I contacted my buddy who works on my car for me, and he told me we could do 1 of 2 things; repair the boots, or replace the axles entirely. He explained that repairing the boots would be cheaper but a huge mess/ass pain and take significantly more time (I pay him for the work he does, but he never charges me as much as he should and I would feel entirely too bad if I choose to have him spend a ton more time on my vehicle than necessary, especially around the holidays when he should be spending it with his wife and kids). After hearing that, I had no problem with just purchasing 2 new axles and dropping them in place of the old ones.

Problem is, after doing some additional research, it seems as though there really arn't any good options. I've looked into all the brands available on RockAuto and the usual Napa/Autozone/Oreilly lifetime warranty route, but it seems as though everything available both new and reman'd are a crapshoot as to quality and longevity. I came across multiple posts from different forums highly recommending a FL based company called "Raxles" that does stellar work and puts out a superb reman'd product, however I called them earlier today to place an order and found out, to my dismay, they no longer do Toyotas. I asked why and the man I spoke with informed me that it's because they only use brand new inner and outter CV joints to ensure a quality product, and that there is just no cost efficient method of sourcing the joints new for Toyotas.

As I see it, here are my current options:

Option A:
Take a chance on a new or reman'd product from Autozone/Napa/Oreilly (I realize that if I ever have any problems with it, they'll replace it no questions asked. My issue is that I don't want to trouble my buddy with taking the time to replace my axle every time it takes a shit on me, which might be quite often seeing as how the longevity is questionable)

Option B:
Buy a boot repair kit, ask my buddy to do it for me even though it's more of a hassle, and compensate him both monetarily and with assloads of beer for his trouble. It's worth mentioning that I've put about 50 or so miles on the truck so far post-tear just going to and from work, so there's probably moisture and all kinds of other bad juju in there by now.

So, with all that being said, my 2 questions are these:
- Can someone confirm that, judging from the location of the tears on my inner boots, this was a result of regular wear/old age and not from putting in the new suspension pieces without a front diff drop kit installed?
- Which axle replacement option would you guys choose? If Option A, then would you choose to go brand new, or reman'd, and why?

Thanks for reading and providing any insight you guys may have, it's much appreciated!

(See attached image for a picture of the CV boot tear location)
 

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My .02. I own an 03 V8. It broke the inner boot like yours at around 100k miles. I put another 20k on it and then I changed the boots. I suspect your lift did cause this, but I also am not a believer in the diff drop modification. I wouldn't sweat that. The reality is, these things eat the boots every 100k miles.

Yes the boots were a PITA for me because I'd never done boots before. Always just done the full axle replacement. Your experienced guy will probably have an extra 2-3 hrs worth of labor in it. Worth it IMO. Give him an extra 100 bucks and call it worth the piece of mind. For me, I wanted the most amount of strength out of my axles as I intended to use it off-road and didn't want an aftermarket axle breaking on me. Other issues of balancing and QC issues also had me on edge.

I have OME on my truck as well, BTW. Very pleased with the way the axles (particularly the boots) have performed since I put on the lift. Much straighter than they were before at rest. 140k miles with that V8 really had the front end sagging on factory springs.

BTW, don't think you'll harm your axles. You still have some grease on them, so unless you're driving through a ton of water and or corrosive material, I suspect you'll be fine. I think it was 2 years and quite some miles before I fixed mine.
 
high mileage, oem boots ripping, especially post lift, is commonly reported on this forum.. so this is no big surprise really.

I plan to replace my axles with cvj reman axles with the red silicone boots same time as my lift (if that ever gets installed as its still sitting in my basement for over a year...!)...

long story short... for dd purposes, your ripped boots will likely last another 10-15K without any extreme articulation... but why wait? new cvjs with the red boots will run 300-400 (for both) after the core deposit is refunded.... do it once, do it right. If you replace your axles, I'd use oem or cvj remans only....
good luck
 
For myself, I did option a and used remanufactured duralast axles, the shop I went to did the work and both of the axel seem fine, little rust on the axel, I had the same thing happen to me due to age, Jack the truck up and hen the inner boot just didn't want to hold up anymore, also I don't off-road my truck and it's 100 pavement so i should be fine.
 
high mileage, oem boots ripping, especially post lift, is commonly reported on this forum.. so this is no big surprise really.

I plan to replace my axles with cvj reman axles with the red silicone boots same time as my lift (if that ever gets installed as its still sitting in my basement for over a year...!)...

long story short... for dd purposes, your ripped boots will likely last another 10-15K without any extreme articulation... but why wait? new cvjs with the red boots will run 300-400 (for both) after the core deposit is refunded.... do it once, do it right. If you replace your axles, I'd use oem or cvj remans only....
good luck

But what if your rig already has reman's on it... thats my situation.
The stock CV's were replaced by the previous owner and CVJ won't take reman's for a core. :(
 
I assume you can just pay the core difference. If not there are other options that are a bigger PITA and or more expensive.
 
I've always purchased aftermarket CV axles, typically from rockauto.com or napa. I always try to find the new axles that don't require a core charge because the trashed ones make great trail spares. Plus I don't care to mess with getting the old part back to the parts store.

For the OP that is a common situation to find yourself in after you add a lift. the age of the CV boots paired with the new angles, and well any boot in that situation will tear.

The good news is once you put the new CV axle in the new boots will last a good while before you'll have to replace them again. (you'll probably see a little grease ooz out at first install just from the angle of the shaft and the amount of greased packed during assembly)

you can take the factory shaft to a drive line shop and have them rebuild it, some axle specialty shops will machine the housings and install larger knuckles to increase the angle that the shafts will work efficiently at. the larger knuckles also give them a higher torque rating.

I would avoid just replacing the boot. It's a cheap fix but for the time and money you have to invest to just replace the boot you may as well have just put in a new cv axle.

Don't feel to bad for your mechanic buddy, its one of the more simple repair jobs on the vehicle let alone probably one of the easiest vehicles to replace a CV axle on. Plenty of how to write ups on the forum and I would venture to say that there is likely a video on youtube showing how as well.
 
Thanks for all the responses guys, I really appreciate the insight!

Since it seems like I'm okay to drive on these torn boots for a while, I'm just going to have everything else I already purchased installed and drive it as is for now. Going to give CVJ a call and see what they can do for me. Checked out their website and a few google testimonials; seems like they are the best "do it right the first time" option besides paying $800+ for OEM replacements. If it's $300-400 for both axles and they're going to be built to last, I don't mind at all.

Cheers!
 
If you want to stop the grease from oozing out in the meantime, cut the factory clamps off and put some narrow hose clamps in their place.
 

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